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Old 05-26-2013, 06:46 AM   #586
dondy
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...pictures will explain better....



Front side:


Back side:
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:29 AM   #587
dirty_sanchez
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Dondy- I know those hubs well.

I've bought, sold, restored, rebuilt, etc., etc., many many dozens of old two-stroke small frame, and large frame vespas through the years.

Any Red threadlocker will work just fine for this application. Just remember, if you ever have to remove the studs you'll likely have to heat the area of the hub surrounding the stud until you see the first sign of smoke. By doing so, you will have softened up the red threadlocker to the point you can remove the stud without damaging the threads in the aluminum hub.

The backside of the wheel studs take 6mm allen wrench for removal if I remember correctly. Those hubs look to have many coats of silver paint on them and must be removed to bare metal before you should even consider trying an allen wrench to remove those studs.

Once you get the paint off inside of the allen wrench holes, take a microtorch-the sort crack heads use and heat the hub in the area where the stud is held captive. It'll come out. Trust me.

Dirty
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Old 05-26-2013, 10:00 AM   #588
dondy
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Thank you far a fast answer.
I'm ok with taking them of, I already did one, but needed to grind back side because they are punched and streched, and unscrew to front (to save the iner thread).

I'm having a problem to find red locker (find on henkel page that 272 will do the yob), so instead I bought 2701 (green), the strongest i could find.
Will the green one do the yob ?
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:10 AM   #589
dirty_sanchez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dondy View Post
Thank you far a fast answer.
I'm ok with taking them of, I already did one, but needed to grind back side because they are punched and streched, and unscrew to front (to save the iner thread).

I'm having a problem to find red locker (find on henkel page that 272 will do the yob), so instead I bought 2701 (green), the strongest i could find.
Will the green one do the yob ?
I wouldn't worry too much about the number of the threadlocker since we have different numbered products here in the States. Green and Red threadlockers in the Loctite Brand are all stronger than Blue products.

You will be fine by selecting a Green threadlocker to secure the wheel studs into the hub.

Ride Safe!

Dirty
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:15 AM   #590
dondy
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Thank you dirty! I read all the 40 pages of this topic, and I know that I can trust you!

PS.
Green is also heat separate only ?
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Old 05-26-2013, 12:15 PM   #591
dirty_sanchez
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Originally Posted by dondy View Post

Thank you dirty! I read all the 40 pages of this topic, and I know that I can trust you!

PS.
Green is also heat separate only ?
Heat to remove with a green or a red product? Yes, it is advised to do so.

Dirty
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Old 05-26-2013, 12:35 PM   #592
dondy
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Thanks! I hope I will not lose the weels..

Now mowing to the two stroke part.. lot's intresting stuff to read...
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Old 05-26-2013, 06:43 PM   #593
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Hey Dirty... how come you never told us about Freeze and Release?

I used it to help remove some bearing races. Still had to cut the races, but they came out much easer than I remembered from the previous replacement. I think the Freeze and Release helped.
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Old 06-02-2013, 08:37 AM   #594
nfranco
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Hi Dirty,
I need to plug a hole in an aluminum transfer case with a steel pipe plug to separate the transmission oil from the transfer case oil, gear oil on both sides.
Is 266 the right product for this?
The plug will be permanent.
Thank you as always.
nick
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Old 06-09-2013, 07:28 AM   #595
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Is Loctite good for head?

Hi Dirty!
I am wondering if Loctite's thread repair would be a good choice to repair stripped valve cover holes in a KLR 650 head. The thread is M6 and about 12mm long.
Is there a thread repair product that is capable of higher than 300 degrees? Not sure how hot the head might get. It is liquid cooled and has a rubber gasket so I am thinking it should be OK but am interested in higher temp possibilities.

I found this thread about a year ago and have found it very informative and entertaining too!

Best Regards....justjeff
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Old 06-09-2013, 09:21 AM   #596
dirty_sanchez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nfranco View Post
Hi Dirty,
I need to plug a hole in an aluminum transfer case with a steel pipe plug to separate the transmission oil from the transfer case oil, gear oil on both sides.
Is 266 the right product for this?
The plug will be permanent.
Thank you as always.
nick
Nick-I'd use 545 in this application, a 10ml bottle is as small as it gets- pn.32429

266 is a threadlocker.

FWIW... the 2XX like the 242, 262, 266, 271, 277, etc., etc., are all threadlockers and the lower the numbers typically denote lower strengths-higher numbers denote higher strength.

5XX are a bit more confusing because this number series refers to both threadsealants and anaerobic gasket eliminators. The higher the numbers in the case of these two familes of products does not hold true.

The 6XX series are all retaining compounds. And in this product category higher numbers do not necessarily mean the products are stronger.

Dirty
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Old 06-09-2013, 09:23 AM   #597
dirty_sanchez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by just jeff View Post
Hi Dirty!
I am wondering if Loctite's thread repair would be a good choice to repair stripped valve cover holes in a KLR 650 head. The thread is M6 and about 12mm long.
Is there a thread repair product that is capable of higher than 300 degrees? Not sure how hot the head might get. It is liquid cooled and has a rubber gasket so I am thinking it should be OK but am interested in higher temp possibilities.

I found this thread about a year ago and have found it very informative and entertaining too!

Best Regards....justjeff
Jeff- Have you ever heard of a Timesert?

The very same thing happened on Tiny D's 250SXF valve cover bolt holes awhile back-he still hasn't quite figured out exactly how "tight" "tight" has to be, but it wasn't the end of the world but it was a learning experience for him.

Oh, yeah how 'bout those Tigers!

Umm, I'm sorry what did you ask me again?

Dirty
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Old 06-09-2013, 10:42 AM   #598
just jeff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez View Post
Jeff- Have you ever heard of a Timesert?

The very same thing happened on Tiny D's 250SXF valve cover bolt holes awhile back-he still hasn't quite figured out exactly how "tight" "tight" has to be, but it wasn't the end of the world but it was a learning experience for him.

Oh, yeah how 'bout those Tigers!

Umm, I'm sorry what did you ask me again?

Dirty
Hi Dirty!

Being a machinist I have installed both Timeserts and Helicoils many times. Are you saying that the Loctite Thread Repair would not be a viable alternative, say for someone who is not skilled in installing a helicoil? Or for a field repair?

The reason I am asking is the question came up on KLRForum where I spend a lot of time and I remembered reading about Loctite thread repair on this forum. I will report back with your response.

Best Regards....justjeff
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Old 06-09-2013, 11:40 AM   #599
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My XChallenge has a plastic tank. On top is a vent cap that is bolted to the tank with course SS screws, probably self tapping. Some of the threads in the tank are stripped. The threaded tank holes are blind holes. Does the Loctite form a thread have any chance of working in this application?
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Old 06-28-2013, 06:21 AM   #600
flxibl2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by just jeff View Post
Hi Dirty!

Being a machinist I have installed both Timeserts and Helicoils many times. Are you saying that the Loctite Thread Repair would not be a viable alternative, say for someone who is not skilled in installing a helicoil? Or for a field repair?

The reason I am asking is the question came up on KLRForum where I spend a lot of time and I remembered reading about Loctite thread repair on this forum. I will report back with your response.

Best Regards....justjeff
I think he is saying without saying, know what I am saying? I have the same problem, '08 KLR650 right front valve cover bolt stripped. Found many of the same bolt holes stripped in my quest on many multiples of sights It is a special flange head bolt so using a longer bolt is not feasible. The bike is in a very "rural" area in the south central Philippines so no Graingers or anything else around the corner. Whatever the fix it needs to be strong and done with normal shop tools (ie no machines)
Thanks, Scott
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