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Old 06-27-2014, 01:05 PM   #751
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Old 06-27-2014, 02:07 PM   #752
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Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez View Post

The only real selling feature for this kind of RTV I have identified is that it's cheap.

Dirty
The old 'caveat emptor' (let the buyer beware) situation.

Before I was educated by Dirty's input on this thread I considered myself fairly knowledgeable on the subject of threadlockers. Then I started asking around and I realized most of the professional folks I spoke with didn't know this stuff either.

I don't think it is an accident that so many people are so poorly informed. Most informed people wouldn't buy the inferior stuff just because it's cheaper.

It kind of pisses me off that I can't find Loctite 243 in most autoparts and hardware stores. So just to stir things up a little I ask for 243 every time I go into a O'Reilly's, AutoZone, Advanced Auto, etc. They just give me the deer-in-the-headlight stare. They can't hep it.
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Old 06-27-2014, 02:33 PM   #753
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Guys-I tell it like it is, just like we were hanging out in your shop or mine rebuilding the top end on a Saturday morning, drinking coffee or beer if it's after 8A.

There's about 130 Loctite Field Reps scattered about the US and Canada and we're all tasked with training roughly 500 to 1,000 Industrial End Users every year and we've done that for the last 30 years or so, and not for lack of trying, I'm constantly amazed at the lack of knowledge from Maintenance Engineers, Reliability Engineers, Maintenance Superintendents and Supervisors.

I even ride with a bonafide Reliability Engineer, I give him threadlockers to use on his bike and everytime we ride something falls off of his bike. I can't get him to use threadlocker on his bike.

Forehead pound.

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Old 06-27-2014, 10:36 PM   #754
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[QUOTE=
In electrical applications when the corrosive acetoxy gas is trapped in an instrumentation cabinet or even something as benign as a pecker head, the corrosive gas does a number on contacts, switchgear, and electrical connections.

The only real selling feature for this kind of RTV I have identified is that it's cheap.

Dirty[/QUOTE]

I see no one is daring to ask.....What's a pecker head? Dirty

Regards....just jeff
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Old 06-28-2014, 04:30 AM   #755
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I see no one is daring to ask.....What's a pecker head? Dirty

Regards....just jeff
The box on an electrical motor where the wires are connected is commonly referred to as the pecker head.


I used to know one person that called it a weather head.


I've never used anything but the factory gasket to seal them, I think it would be common in a place like a food plant where everything is washed down with sanitizer daily.

My experience with the non vineger smelling RTV is on HIGH power/frequency induction hardeners to seal around busses. I think we used a 3M electrical rated RTV.
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Old 06-28-2014, 04:33 AM   #756
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Well you see Jeff, Ms. Dirty and I haven't been getting along very well as of late, and.....

It's sort of a slang term for an electric motor terminal connection box-where you connect the wires of the motor to the electric wire feed.

Big of you to take one for the team Jeff-I'd bet there's at least three more of you, but less than 5 that wondered but were too proud to ask

Dirty
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Old 06-28-2014, 07:13 AM   #757
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drinking coffee or beer if it's after 8A.
If you're going to drink all day, you've got to start in the morning.

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Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez View Post
I'm constantly amazed at the lack of knowledge from Maintenance Engineers, Reliability Engineers, Maintenance Superintendents and Supervisors.
And guys who work on vehicles or other mechanical systems for a living. This is why I have to do all my own work.
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Old 08-23-2014, 10:57 AM   #758
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Question : I used some Loctite 222 low strength thread locker on the mounting screws for my Trailtech Voyager. The mount is primarily plastic with embedded threaded inserts for the bracket to the device and then plastic to plastic held together by a metal screw and nut.

The latter joint failed with the plastic seeming to just degrade and crumble! The device was stable when I first installed it. A week to ten days later without the bike being ridden or even started it had failed.

There are some pictures in my post over on the Trail Tech Voyager - Interesting GPS Speedo! thread.

Did I fail to RTFM? I will admit to having been a little enthusiastic in the amount of Loctite I used but I have never seen this type of plastic failure before.

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Old 08-23-2014, 11:27 AM   #759
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AF-Sorry to hear about the cracking of the Voyager housing. Much earlier in this thread we reviewed why many plastics don't play well with anaerobic chemistries, but here's why....they stress crack many thermoplastics faster than you can spit.

Anaerobics are generally not used with most plastics. Anaerobics will stress crack some plastics including many thermoplastics like ABS and polycarbonate. If the product is used for metal-to-metal but in close proximity to plastic, there is the possibility of excess liquid product or vapor affecting the plastic. In the case of compatible plastics like acetals, the anaerobics are simply not the best family of products for effectively locking and/or sealing. Often cyanoacrylates are substituted if they meet the other application parameters.

Again, sorry you found out about this the hard way. Lord knows I've learned expensive lessons through the years.

Dirty
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Old 08-23-2014, 12:23 PM   #760
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Originally Posted by AugustFalcon View Post
Did I fail to RTFM?
Unfortunately, yes. Thread lockers and plastic are a no-no.
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Old 08-23-2014, 02:11 PM   #761
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Unfortunately, yes. Thread lockers and plastic are a no-no.
The really sad part is that once Dirty replied above then I remembered reading the posts warning about the interactions between plastics and threadlockers.
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Old 08-23-2014, 02:47 PM   #762
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The really sad part is that once Dirty replied above then I remembered reading the posts warning about the interactions between plastics and threadlockers.
I'll share one of my dumb-ass moves as well.

Remember guys like me don't listen very well and guys like me normally don't read directions-so keep that in mind.

Years back when I first started with Loctite, I was up in northern Louisiana, it was love bug season and you could hardly see at night much less during the day with all of the bugs stuck to the front end of the car.

Well....I whipped out one of our bad-assed, hot rod cleaner/degreasers and totally doused the front of the car. I forget how many cans I used, but the front bumper cover was doused, the headlights were doused, the hood, the side mirrors, the windshield-I mean it was dripping. Hotter than blue blazes, and there I let it sit in the car wash bay-you know, to let it soak in.

Well after about 5 minutes in go the quarters, out comes the spray wand and everything was coming off like buttah. Hung up the wand, gave her a good scrubbing with the foaming brush, rinsed her off with the spot-free. Man, she was gonna look good when I was done. I couldn't wait.

No sooner than I had rinsed the suds off of the front headlights, I noticed they were starting to fill up with water. I didn't know how that had happened but didn't really think twice about it until the next day. At least the paint didn't rinse off.

It turned out that had I read the fine print I would have seen the large print disclaimer that this product was NOT FOR USE ON PLASTICS.

The clear plastic in both headlights had stress cracked so badly that I could shove quarters through the gaping cracks for safe keeping.

Woops!

Read the directions.

I felt like a dumb-ass that day in Monroe, LA.

Dirty
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Old 08-28-2014, 05:42 AM   #763
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which product

Going to be reassembling the crankcases on a KLR650 soon. Manuals say to use Kawabond 5 or Yamabond 3. Is there an equivalent Locktite product. I use 515 all the time for various other things. Is it any good for this??

tia

g
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Old 08-28-2014, 09:30 AM   #764
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Going to be reassembling the crankcases on a KLR650 soon. Manuals say to use Kawabond 5 or Yamabond 3. Is there an equivalent Locktite product. I use 515 all the time for various other things. Is it any good for this??

tia

g
Perfect choice. Big OEM's silk screen either 515, 518, or 510 on gasketed surfaces.

As I've said for years-you can apply a bead of any of those Gasket Eliminators, and go sit on the toilet for an hour or take your annual month long vacation, return and then mate your parts. The curing clock never starts with this stuff. It only begins to cure when you mate your parts and because of the curing mechanism, it'll never skin over like the Yamhonkawabond crap.

You heard right....I said CRAP.

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Old 08-28-2014, 09:32 AM   #765
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The curing clock never starts with this stuff. It only begins to cure when you mate your parts
Can you please tell us how this works? Is the chemical pressure sensitive, or only works when deprived of air?

I'm fascinated by this....
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