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Old 10-14-2008, 09:20 AM   #211
spokexx
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: philly burbs
Oddometer: 86
well i ordered that small 12v lead acid battery on zbattery.com for just $18 shipped.
Ill let you all know how it goes when i get it and hook it up. By the way, the small nimh pack i was using was only a 700mah. It powered my led turn signals and led brake light fine.
A guy named Chuck over in TT told me either that pack was overcharging from the bike's system or it shorted out from vibration and maybe the terminals inside the pack came loose and rubbed together. Im more willing to believe overcharging since the pack was tightly shrink wrapped.
I used to race RC cars also, and i remember racers saying the nimh batteries were more sensitive to overcharging than nicd's.

As for actually riding the bike, my buddy and I went out riding the woods yesterday and i just love the 350. He has an 82 XL500R and we swapped for awhile. Jeez his bike is so huge. Powerful, but just too big in everyway, 329 lbs loaded up and about a foot higher in the croch. He had good things to say about the 350. Very zippy and agile. True. Theres a nice steep hill climb back there that i did with my xt550. Cant wait to get the 350 up it.
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Old 10-14-2008, 10:11 AM   #212
nails1
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Location: New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Ball
Sorry, I know nothing about carbs.
This might be a steep learning curve. I've learned a lot of ways to get into trouble.

Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Ball
I'd like to order the appropriate rubber parts to fix the gas leak and new jets etc and do all the work at once.
Replacing all the rubber stuff is a fine "all at once" task. Re-jetting requires iteration.

Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Ball
Does anyone know if the Climer Manual shows how to dis/re-asemble the carb and all of it's various functions?
Use this manual for the stepwise instructions. There's much to really understanding carbs that you won't find in this manual. There's much you won't ind anywhere, because it's voodoo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Ball
Would the 130 Primary 120 Secondary be a good place to start the modding along with some holes drilled in the airbox, a Uni filter and major cleaning of carb?
Personally, I think you can do fine with just proper jetting. I don't think you'll gain much with "high-flow" air concepts, but if that's what you want to do, then do that before you start rejetting.

There's lots on the web. These bikes come way lean, so go ahead and jump way up five jet sizes for the mains.

One basic idea is that everything affects everything else.

1) take your time,
2) make sure gross stuff like air leaks are all fixed first,
3) make sure the electrical system works right,
4) shun big jumps in jetting,
5) just change one jet/meter-screw at a time,
6) work from high-speed Wide Open Throttle down to idle,
7) check the plug color (at least until you get close -- you can fine-tune based on simple performance),
8) then go back and check everything again -- repeat until you get it all right.
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Old 10-14-2008, 10:34 AM   #213
Grreatdog
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Location: Annapolis, MD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gale B.T.
the front wheel vibrating rapidly like she had an immediate flat,NOT SO, but the vibrating tire and what ever else ,the bike moved towards the guard rail when she performed a get off, perfect slide into second base, except towards the guard rail.
I rode mine for well over 20k miles and the only time that ever happened to me was when a front bearing failed at about 60mph. It wasn't hard to figure out since the guy behind me got nailed by a couple of the bearings. But it spit them out and it was ugly until I slowed down. Fortunately it was a straight section of road.

This happened when the bike was almost new with less than 5000 miles. It was too long ago to remember much else. The replacement front bearings lasted another 16 years and 20,000 miles without an issue. I figured they must have gotten a bad batch of bearings in 1986.

I think it was having one side fail and the other not that send the front wheel into a crazy vibration. Having a flat or having the steering stem bearing go bad never did anything like that. Good job by your wife to stay out of the armco barrier.

Don't forget to share with the rest of the class when you figure it out.
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Old 10-14-2008, 10:42 AM   #214
Grreatdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Ball
It's almost like its starving for gas. It ran fine for years, sat for a while, intake boots and air filter deteriorated....now has new boots, cleaned carb, new air filter and runs like poop.

......Also, after sitting a while my carb leaks gas so I'd like to find a kit to replace all the rubber parts in the carb.
Before I did major surgery replacing the rubber parts I would:

Check the float condition and height because the float may have rotted. If it is too high it will overflow gas and run like crap. And if it doesn't float anymore it will overflow gas and run like crap.

Drain and clean the float bowl by removing the horizontal bolt in the bottom of the bowl. Mine got condensation or crud down in there all the time and it would not want to start or run right. And sometimes it would flood through the overflow. Why? I have no clue and neither did the mechanics. It just was.

Also check that the needle valve on the float arm isn't worn out or dirty and not shutting off the gas. That will also make it overflow gas and run like crap.

In other words do and double check the easy stuff first.
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Grreatdog screwed with this post 10-14-2008 at 10:48 AM
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Old 10-15-2008, 12:46 PM   #215
Gale B.T.
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Gale's XT 350 challenge

Special thanks to all, busta3396, J-Ball, Mudgepondexpress, Grreatdog, and Nails1 for all the suggestions and help.

I did take the bike out for a ride the following day after checking alignment, tire pressure, kicking front wheel back straight, checking steering head bearing for slop, forks, etc. I put on enough protection that I may have looked like the Michelin Man but rode the bike on dirt and tarmat, fast slow, corners, etc, NOTHING out of the ordinary. Very puzzling.

I will double check and may tighten the steering head bearings as Kenny suggested but right now they feel snug firm/snug and proper preload.

I will pull the front brake caliper apart and clean to check for tiny rubber bits that may have caused the pads to have a grip on the front disc which may have tightened up as the heat builds up . I am very aware that some riders have experienced this happening when the relief valve is blocked in our brake systems. This may or may not ever tell me what really happened.

Thanks again , will keep you posted on my findings.

Ride safe, gale
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Old 10-15-2008, 06:33 PM   #216
The Full Monty
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Location: Clear Lake Shores, TX
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Question Front Sprocket

I purchased a new front sprocket off ebay. It is exactly like the original.....except the original has rubber (vibration dampener?) on each side of the sprocket. The new sprocket does not have the drilled holes for the rubber.

Does it matter?

Thanks,
mb
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Old 10-16-2008, 06:09 AM   #217
SkidMarx
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Location: Ortonville, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FTL
I purchased a new front sprocket off ebay. It is exactly like the original.....except the original has rubber (vibration dampener?) on each side of the sprocket. The new sprocket does not have the drilled holes for the rubber.

Does it matter?

Thanks,
mb
Nope.
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Old 10-19-2008, 07:44 PM   #218
johned206
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Location: Carbondale, Colorado
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fork seal replacement

I've got a 2000 XT350 with a blown fork seal. I've also got the Yamaha service manual. From looking at the manual it looks like I've got to remove the damper rod et al to replace the seal. Do I need to go that far?... and if I do has anyone fabricated a tool to match the Yamaha tool for rmoving the rod? What about a fabricated tool for seating the seal? Help!!!
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Old 10-19-2008, 08:16 PM   #219
FlyingFinn
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Location: San Jose, CA
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Not specif to XT but yes, you do have to take the forks apart to replace the oil seals. The good news is that's it really easy.

As for holding back the damper rod when you turn the bolt at the bottom of the forks, I've usually taken wood rod and coarsely chiseled down one end to slight taper. When it starts to feel like it kind of matches the top of damper rod, I just tap the wood dowel in there.
Then hold the dowel in a vise and turn the bolt. It might take a couple of tries but it's never failed to work for me.

--
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Old 10-19-2008, 09:03 PM   #220
J-Ball
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Location: Llano County, TEXAS
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Hey Johned

I did pretty much the same that Flyingfinn did as far as using a wooden dowl, worked fine. Mine was just some 1"x1"-ish square scrap wood. As far as seating the seal, I used some PVC pipe....I'm thinking it was schedule 40... I dunno...2" or 1 1/4" ? I had never done any thing like a fork seal job, had no instructions and just did it one day. Took about an hour. Just go for it. Do one at a time and lay everything out on a clean work space. I used tranny fluid to wash out the tubes before I reassembled. I used OEM seals and dust covers and I've been pretty brutal on them for a while....still holding together. I also used 15wt oil and made PVC sch 40 spacers...I think they are about an 1' longer than stock but I really can't remember. It all made the front end quite a bit better than it was stock...highly recommended.

Can someone explain "lowering the circlip" on the rear shock? I'd like to stiffen up the rear as much as possible. I used a wrench to adjust the nothced nut all the way up. But circlip?

Tires were mentioned earlier in this thread, The Distanzia is a good tire, I think I like the Anakee better for D/S work, not sure if they come in the right sizes for the XT. I actually dont dis-like the stock knobs that come on the 99 XT, but I'd like to check out the TKC 80's on this bike.
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Old 10-20-2008, 12:06 AM   #221
jegrmajstr
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Location: Slovenia, Europe
Oddometer: 135
Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Ball
Can someone explain "lowering the circlip" on the rear shock? I'd like to stiffen up the rear as much as possible. I used a wrench to adjust the nothced nut all the way up. But circlip?
It's simple, but it takes a bit of work because you have to remove the rear shock from the bike. Once you have that, you just unscrew both notched nuts that hold the spring from the shock, remove the spring and then you'll see that there's a circlip holding the upper spring collar in place. Remove the collar, set the circlip in the lowest notch and reassemble the shock. The only tricky part at reassembly is that you'll have to compress the spring a bit somehow to screw on the lower notched nuts, because of the smaller distance for the spring to fit now.

About the tires... Anakee doesn't come in sizes for the XT350, and because I do very little off-road riding the Distanzia is perfect for me: sticks well on-road, good on gravel roads and it lasts forever :)
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Old 10-20-2008, 04:46 AM   #222
The Full Monty
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Thumb Finished!!

For the time being......!!!!




I finally got her completely back together and she runs fine. I installed new Baja Design flashers and really that is the only problem that I have right now. The new LED flasher does not draw enough amps to fire the flasher. I am going to order a flasher from Baja Designs ASAP.



I need to give her a full wash and find a way to polish the plastic. Does anyone know the best stuff to use on the plastic?



I took her for a 35 mile test ride yesterday. Nothing too spectacular as far as the ride went, except that the bike performed flawlessly! I really don't know how the bike could have done better. No backfires, no stutters, no dieing at stop signs, and I took her to 75 mph and there was still plenty of throttle.



Drove her to work today!
Just perfect.
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Old 10-20-2008, 06:29 AM   #223
SkidMarx
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Location: Ortonville, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FTL
I need to give her a full wash and find a way to polish the plastic. Does anyone know the best stuff to use on the plastic?
Lemon Pledge.
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Old 10-22-2008, 08:58 AM   #224
SkidMarx
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Pissed

Well, I was going to tuff it out this morning and ride to work. The Mighty XT had other ideas.
It was about 30 deg F so I bundled up and waddled out to the shop in the crisp morning air.
I haven't ridden in a few weeks so I expected a few more kicks would be required to light it up, but little did I know...

First kick...Nothing.

Second Kick...A sputter.

Sweet. Maybe this won't be so bad.

Third Kick...CLANG.

WTF

"Something isn't right here." I say to myself while looking at my kickstarter laying on the ground.

Upon inspection I see that the shaft is twisted right off.
It looks like it may have had some cracks for a while. Likely caused by me having to kick the crap out of it befor I got the carbs sorted out.

Not the hardest fix in the world, but I'm just not feeling very motivated at the moment. about $50 for a new shaft. I swear that thing knows when I'm saving up for som new gear.
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Old 10-22-2008, 09:10 AM   #225
nails1
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Joined: Feb 2008
Location: New Mexico
Oddometer: 187
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkidMarx
Third Kick...CLANG.
I had an SP370 in the 70's. Rode the heck out of it (bungie on the pack part of an old Coleman frame pack then head for Anza Borrego, just about every weekend).

Later I traded that loved bike for a Honda 550 Four. A week later, I went back to the bike shop, and they had my 370 on the stand. The kick-starter gears were totally toast, and the shop was stuck with the repair.

Unlike you, I was born lucky.
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