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Old 12-04-2012, 06:16 AM   #3166
SkidMarx
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Location: Ortonville, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tellicotom View Post
I currently ride a 2000 Yamaha XT350 as a DualSport. Love the Bike except....it's a Kick start and VERYYYYYYY cold-blooded!
Hard starting is a pretty easy fix.
1. Remove the carbs.
2. flip them over and find the little brass cap just in front of the float bowl.
3. Carefully drill it out. (it covers the Pilot screw).
4. Screw the screw IN gently until it bottoms while count the number of turns.
5. write that down somewhere. It's your stock setting just in case you need to go back.
6. turn the screw back out 2 1/2 turns.
7. Reinstall carb. and start bike.
- it should only take 2 -3 kicks now.
8. if you have a really short/small screwdriver you can make further adjustments with the carb on. turn the screw out another 1/2 turn and see if the bike idles better. if so leave it and turn the bike off and let it cool off. then restart to see if it starts even better.

You can monkey around with the screw to find the best position, but it's generally between 2 1/2 to 3 turns out.
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Old 12-04-2012, 06:28 AM   #3167
kwakbiker
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Help with timing setting, rebuilding my XT and trying to set the timing, as it tries to close the exhaust valves the chain jumps off the cam sprockets, the clymer syas to install the tensioner after setting the timing, is this right as the chain stays loose?
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Old 12-04-2012, 07:21 AM   #3168
SkidMarx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwakbiker View Post
Help with timing setting, rebuilding my XT and trying to set the timing, as it tries to close the exhaust valves the chain jumps off the cam sprockets, the clymer syas to install the tensioner after setting the timing, is this right as the chain stays loose?
If the timing marks are lined up, the cams shouldn't be doing anything with the valves. One thing I do that helps line things up is push against the back timing chain guide through the tensioner hole with a screwdriver to kep the chain tightish.

Don't try to turn anything without the tensioner in even if the manual says to.
If that's what you are doing, you have already discovered that it doesn't work.
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Old 12-04-2012, 07:38 AM   #3169
kwakbiker
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Cheers, had sorta worked out that its because the chain is allowed to go slack but want to be sure, ill try applying pressure to the chain as you describe.Forgot to put in my OP thats its when im doing the counter clockwise rotation that the lobes engage the valves, sorry for the confusion
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkidMarx View Post
If the timing marks are lined up, the cams shouldn't be doing anything with the valves. One thing I do that helps line things up is push against the back timing chain guide through the tensioner hole with a screwdriver to kep the chain tightish.

Don't try to turn anything without the tensioner in even if the manual says to.
If that's what you are doing, you have already discovered that it doesn't work.
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:01 AM   #3170
Earthscape
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Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Western Mass
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tellicotom View Post
I currently ride a 2000 Yamaha XT350 as a DualSport. Love the Bike except....it's a Kick start and VERYYYYYYY cold-blooded!

I've ridden both off-pavement and like the Power of the XT vs the KLX, but HATE the kick start. Also, the air-cooled seems to be a down-side of the XT in the heat on single track.

I have an opportunity to pickup a KLX250 at a decent price and I'm considering it. But, I need a little help making the final decision............

I've done the +/- thing and here is what I have.

I like the Yami height wise and performace wise over the Kawai, but it is hard starting and Always a kick starter!

The Kawi is 7 years newer and has ~ 8,000 less miles.

The Kawi was ridden by a 250 lb man off-road for ~ 1500 to 1800 miles. Nornal scuff marks, but nothing beyond cosmetic that I can tell.

I know...why decide...have both!

Whatda you all think?


Thanks,
TellicoTom
I have both. 2007 KLX and 1996 XT350.
For tight woods, single track and no track, I find the XT is better due to its lower seat, more compliant suspension, and superior off-idle power. (We're talking slow riding over rocks, roots, logs, brooks, etc. here.) It also seems to be balanced a bit better for very slow riding. Though it can get too hot when moving slow on a hot day. Off-idle the XT feels more "torquey" than the KLX with the 351 - maybe attributable to flywheel weight, though I don't really know. The XT also feels ever so slightly lighter.

The KLX is better pretty much everywhere else, and has a very decent electrical system to boot. With the 351 kit, the KLX spanks the XT from about 3500 RPM and above. As a 250, the KLX doesn't have the usable power of the XT. The KLX is also a great platform to start to build on, with a lot of aftermarket support.

I hear you with the kickstart-only. Most of the time it's fine, but those few times it doesn't want to start are the ones you remember, and no matter how good you get at kick-starting, it will never be as easy as pushing a button.

For me they are different enough to want to keep both. If you have the means, keep the XT and pick up the KLX and ride both for a while, or forever. If you do find that you don't want one of them, sell it at that point. I have found that owning multiple bikes makes me more greatly appreciate the qualities of each, and more easily overlook the shortcomings. It also gives you options to keep riding when one bike needs maintenance.
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:38 PM   #3171
kwakbiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwakbiker View Post
Cheers, had sorta worked out that its because the chain is allowed to go slack but want to be sure, ill try applying pressure to the chain as you describe.Forgot to put in my OP thats its when im doing the counter clockwise rotation that the lobes engage the valves, sorry for the confusion
Sorted, pressure applied, timing stays spot on........just get on and finish the rest now, get it MOT'd and on the road sharpish
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Old 12-05-2012, 06:06 PM   #3172
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthscape View Post
The KLX is better pretty much everywhere else, and has a very decent electrical system to boot. With the 351 kit, the KLX spanks the XT from about 3500 RPM and above. As a 250, the KLX doesn't have the usable power of the XT. The KLX is also a great platform to start to build on, with a lot of aftermarket support.
The XT/TT has the same torque at 3,500rpm that a WR250F does at peak.


Yeah, stuck on a steep hill, hanging on to both brakes and trying to kick it over is a leeeetle hard.

A magic button would be, well, magic.
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Old 12-06-2012, 03:52 AM   #3173
Lenz1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
.....Yeah, stuck on a steep hill, hanging on to both brakes and trying to kick it over is a leeeetle hard.....
Never mastered that skill .... missed out on the second right leg option

Dual oil coolers mounted and oil lines in place. (Frame gussets welded in, 3 rubber mounted support points each cooler) Filters, carbies, manifolds etc installed. Painted the headers with some ceramic type paint that has delaminated - primer required apparently. I owe you guys some pics - soon as the concrete decelleration traumatised camera is replaced.
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:32 AM   #3174
Grreatdog
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After jetting and and a pipe I liked the midrange "hit" on my old XT350. It didn't have the Caterpillar stump pulling crawl or top speed of my XL600R, but it actually had a harder hit in the midrange. The relatively light weight and the midrange punch did make it fun in tight woods and on gnarly trails where the soft suspension didn't matter.

Kind of funny that a few weeks ago I was looking at a hard section of trail I had done several times on the old XT350 that I didn't try with my 640. The 640 is a much, much better offroad bike in almost every way. But "almost" didn't include that narrow little bridge over a deep cut with a hard right and straight up a muddy 20' bluff.

Not that I couldn't have done it. But it would have taken a lot of work to do it and a lot more work if I didn't make it. It didn't help that I had just watched my bro in law loop his DR350 on that bluff and helmet surf a log back down it.
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:20 AM   #3175
JensEskildsen
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Hey gang, just scored this beaty:




1986 xt350, with tt350 front forks, and xt600 rear shock. Feels very plush.

93.000km and bought with brokens speedocable, so I wonder if its really past 100.000km? Oh well, I'll try to rack up thoose kilometers myself

-The carb has been rejetted with a wideband lambda-probe by the PO, and no leakage around intakeboots. Starts in 3-4 kicks cold, and 1 warm.

-520 chain installed with 15/45 sprockets.
-Slightly bigger downpipes, and an aftermarked exhasut is also installed.
- Wiseco 9:1 piston.

It needs a lot of small stuff:

Wider footpegs - stock ones are too narrow.
Seatcover - Torn.
Speedocable - Current one is broken.
Tachocable - Missing.
Check/adjust valves.
Clutchlever - Old one is missing the tip.
Front brake lever - Old one is missing the tip.
Fix rear brake light - Switch is relocated where it isnt activated.
It needs a horn and a swich for it so I can get it registered in my name.
Misc stuff like lubing all cables, changing bolts/nuts ect.




I've done an oilchange, but didnt have a filter, so a complete oil/filter-change, and strainer-cleaning is up aswell sometime soon.
I've also given the suspension links a good amount of grease through the greasenipples, cleaned and lubed airfilter and other small stuff like that.

Have only ridden it around town, and one little offroadride in the snow. Its just a perfect match for my xt600 :)

Just wanted to say hi.....Hi
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JensEskildsen screwed with this post 12-09-2012 at 10:35 AM
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Old 12-09-2012, 12:41 PM   #3176
xt4ever
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Are you sure those forks are from a TT350?
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:12 PM   #3177
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xt4ever View Post
Are you sure those forks are from a TT350?
The TT has a twin pot calliper.
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:49 AM   #3178
xt4ever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
The TT has a twin pot calliper.
Yeah, I bet the only thing this guy got from a TT were the gaiters
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Old 12-11-2012, 01:01 AM   #3179
jan.van.gent
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Hello everyone,

Since this weekend, my carburator is leaking a little bit. My garage smells slightly like petrol, and the outside of the float room feels wet.
The bike runs great, no problem.
Anyone having an idea which could cause this leak? Which seals to replace? Or is the float room flooded?
I have not a lot of experience with carburators.
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:20 AM   #3180
SkidMarx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jan.van.gent View Post


Hello everyone,

Since this weekend, my carburator is leaking a little bit. My garage smells slightly like petrol, and the outside of the float room feels wet.
The bike runs great, no problem.
Anyone having an idea which could cause this leak? Which seals to replace? Or is the float room flooded?
I have not a lot of experience with carburators.
Likely just a dirty float needle or stuck floats.
-Remove the carbs.
-Carefully remove the float bowl. Make sure you don't bend the floats out of adjustment.
-lift the floats so that the needle is up and spray carb cleaner in the hole.
-look for any dirt or varnish that may be causing the needle to not close all the way.

If you can find a shop with an ultrasonic cleaner big enough for the carb, have them put the carb in there for a day or so.
If not soak it in carb cleaner.

Next for the cause.
If the bike sat for several months, it's likely varnish. The soaking shoild do the trick.

If it's dirt, check to make suer the screens on the petcock don't have holes. replace them if they do.
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