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Old 12-17-2012, 04:06 AM   #3196
Lenz1
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TT350 - Dual Oil Coolers

I've got a few pics of the dual oil cooler setup on Photobucket. Smugmug wouldn't fly for me.

Could someone tell me how to post pics please. I've tried the "Insert Image" button but it doesn't like the Photobucket file address/name that I copied /pasted into the URL address.
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Old 12-17-2012, 04:25 AM   #3197
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Photobucket gives you the image code under the picture or in a box off to the side depending on how you are viewing it. You just copy and paste the code directly into your post without using any of the controls here.

The code should look like:

[IMG ]http://i427.photobucket. com/albums/pp354/grreatdog/TommyYoakum.jpg[/IMG ]
(spaces added so the code would show up)

Which posts this:

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Old 12-17-2012, 04:30 AM   #3198
Lenz1
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Thanks GD - I'll try the direct link then the img link that photobucket provides

http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...psad5dd6d2.jpg
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Old 12-17-2012, 04:34 AM   #3199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lenz1 View Post
Thanks GD - I'll try the direct link then the img link that photobucket provides

http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...psad5dd6d2.jpg
you want to have [IMG] then your link then [/IMG]

like this:

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Old 12-17-2012, 04:37 AM   #3200
Lenz1
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My apologies for crashin around in the china shop

The pic sequence is probably best viewed from the bottom up.

Summary of this oil cooler solution is 2 coolers sourced from wrecked 4WD vehicles, I kept all the connectors that went with the coolers.

Parallel gussets were welded into the frame and light mild steel tubing used as the main outer mount element (MOME). I fabricated some "T" pieces that rotated around the MOME so the existing outer lugs on the cooler could be tied into. Got sick of chasing heat resistant rubber washers so I cut the rubbermounts/ spacers out of a reasonably serviceable radiator hose with a hole saw.

The inner mounts are attached to the fuel tank support mounts. The two pipe spacers shown in the pics of the inner mounts are temporary as they are replaced by the tank mounts when the tank is fitted.

The piping for the hot feed line runs from the top of the oil filter casing, flexible shielded line into a single steel line at the front of the frame downtube. The feed line branches into the coolers via hand bent steel tube that is silversoldered into the original cooler fittings.

The cooled "return" lines run up from the bottom of the cooler to find space away from the decompression assembly then into a single return line into the engine (lower fitting). The return lines have been insulated from further heat from exhaust / engine with a woven fibreglass tubing I sourced from an electric motor rewinding shop.

No leaks from the cooler system on todays startup. The 20thou that was taken off the head, new rings, valve touchup and light cylinder hone has definitely raised the compression. The engine has that special "crackle" to it now

More pics of the carbie / inlet changes are pending













Lenz1 screwed with this post 12-17-2012 at 05:33 AM
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:54 PM   #3201
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looks good with some nice work there
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Old 12-17-2012, 01:43 PM   #3202
JensEskildsen
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Wow, thats some bigass coolers. Have you meassured oiltemps before/after?

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by JensEskildsen View Post
.................
I do however, have some clutch slippage in 3-6 gear when I gun it. The bike came with a lot of spare parts, incl some other (used) clutch plates. I'll meassure thoose and see if they're in spec. Perhaps I'll look around for some harder clutch springs aswell, time will tell.

The spare clutch meassure just about brand new. The bike, however, choose to fix itself, just stopped slipping. Dont know why it needed some kilometers before the clutch wouldnt slip.

The carb was jettet leaner with the wideband lambdaprobe, one size down on both mainjets, and the idlejet for a more effecient air/fuel ratio. I put the stock idlejet back in, as its pretty cold outside (more dense air) and it seemed to warm up/get of the choke a lot faster, and it also seemed to help with the unsteady idle, but it didnt cure it 100%.

I've changed the oil once more, togeher with a new filter, and I cleaned the oilstrainer aswell. Wanted to do a complete oilchange. I also added a powerfull 10mm neodymium-magnet on the drainplug, to keep metal particles out of the oil.

I've added a fuelfilter, and mounted a horn with new wires and a switch, directly to the capacitor, so the horn is always "hot"

Still got a lot of small things to do before I can get the bike inspected, but what a fun bike, both to ride and maintain.
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Old 12-18-2012, 02:22 AM   #3203
Lenz1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JensEskildsen View Post
Wow, thats some bigass coolers. Have you meassured oiltemps before/after?.........
The coolers are close to the same overall dimensions as the radiators used across the vast majority of "water cooled" motorcycle engines.

Ambient temperatures of 35degC - 50degC and higher are very common at engine height above a road surface here in Queensland Australia during summer. Since the cooled oil is returned to the sump there is an averaging of the combined oil temperature in the sump as opposed to "chilled" oil being fired at hot engine components. Its only cooling part of the circulating oil volume.

One of the effects of raising the compression ratio of an air cooled engine is the accompanying additional heat that is generated. Between the additional compression and the added power from the ported head I opted to give this motor every chance of survival possible for high ambient temps / high output. There's no downside to the motor with this level of heat loss for the foreseeable operating environment.

What I can tell you at this stage is the carbie pilot jet setting needs a lot more than 2.5 turns out to run at low speed probably because its getting so much better flow through the head. The needles may also need to be lifted a notch and the engagement point of the secondary carbie shifted to start at a little more open primary carbie slide position - it's tending to stall a touch when the throttle is snapped open.
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Old 12-18-2012, 02:40 AM   #3204
Lenz1
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Originally Posted by kwakbiker View Post
looks good with some nice work there
Thank you Sir - you may like the inlet upgrades too - airbox, rubbish carbie "boots" and manifolds deleted - more betta inlet tract completely. I could show ya the port work that was done ...... but then I'd have to kilya ........
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:18 AM   #3205
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[Photobucket
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:36 AM   #3206
kwakbiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lenz1 View Post
Thank you Sir - you may like the inlet upgrades too - airbox, rubbish carbie "boots" and manifolds deleted - more betta inlet tract completely. I could show ya the port work that was done ...... but then I'd have to kilya ........
To kill me.......first ya gotta find me


Now post the pics
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Old 12-26-2012, 01:20 PM   #3207
JensEskildsen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JensEskildsen View Post
I do however, have some clutch slippage in 3-6 gear when I gun it. The bike came with a lot of spare parts, incl some other (used) clutch plates. I'll meassure thoose and see if they're in spec. Perhaps I'll look around for some harder clutch springs aswell, time will tell.

The bike has a rough idle, occasionally it sounds like it doesnt fire on a single stroke, then idles fine for 5 secs, and misses again. Sometimes the engine stalls. I've set the idle higher now (a little too high) and she idles fine. I think I saw someone having the same troubles and fixed it, but cant remember what fixed it. Perhaps some advance/retard of the timing?

I tried, as a quick fix, to back out the CO screw half a turn, but it didnt help.
Hey gang, merry christmas :)

I've been messing with my bike. My irregular idle is almost gone, it helped to install the stock idlejet (was one size down in the carb when I got it)

The clutch is getting better all by itself, dunno why it doesnt seem to like the fresh oil. After I've ridden it a few hundred kilometers, its way better. Will see if it dissapears, otherwise I'll sand up the metalplates slightly and/or replace the clutch.

I gave myself some new footpegs for xmas, I saw that the 350 had the same footpegs as my 600, so I knew a set of oversize tw200 footpegs from ebay would fit (you need to drill one hole for them to fit)



My seat was torn, so a new seatcover from David Lambeth was ordered, and installed:



Love this bike =)
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Old 12-27-2012, 06:52 AM   #3208
jan.van.gent
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Because of some noises in the top of my engine, I checked the valve clearance today:


Exhaust right: 0.09mm
Exhaust left: 0.15mm
should be: 0.13-0.17



intake right: 0.10mm
intake left: 0.11mm
should be: 0.07-0.12mm

So the intake is OK. Exhaust right is out of tolerance. I will change that, I hope the ticking noise will be gone than.

I also replace the cam chain tensioner. Because i thought it also was making some noise (the chain). After replacing, I thought the tension was OK, but at some positions, the tension is like on the picture below.
90% of the positions the tension seems good, but at some positions it's not ok in my opininion. Or is this only when turning the engine by hand, and in some positions?
Or could it be that the chain is to worn out/ to long? The new cam chain tensioner is working (because before mounting it, the tension was 0 )

So, is this normal or not?




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Old 12-27-2012, 08:09 AM   #3209
JensEskildsen
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Tight valves usually doesnt make noises, so dont get youre hopes up too much. But fix it anyway =)

I would replace that camchain, even if it was just to be sure, you can blow youre motor if it skips a tooth.

Camchain-rattle often goes away as rpm rises, because the slack is taken out of the chain.
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:41 AM   #3210
jan.van.gent
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JensEskildsen View Post
Tight valves usually doent make noises, so dnt get youre hopes up too much. But fix it anyway =)

I would replace that camchain, even if it was just to be sure, you can blow youre motor if it skips a tooth.

Camchain-rattle often goes away as rpm rises, because the slack is taken out of the chain.
Indeed the rattle is worst at idle. Not sure if cam chain rattle or valve ticking...
When accelerating the noise is gone. When releasing trottle -> noise.
So sounds indeed like camchain slack.
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