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Old 06-18-2013, 10:48 AM   #3406
SkidMarx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Budget View Post
Thanks, but I want a kit to rebuild my MC myself.

Im guessing the kit fits several different MC's ?
I bought the OEM kit from my dealer. It was $30 or so.
Here is one for a bit less so I'd shop around.
http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oem...aster-cylinder

Item #2
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:37 PM   #3407
backroadbob.com
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Charging System

Hey, Erock65, did you ever get your charging system sorted?
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:44 PM   #3408
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XT Rebound Damping

Llamas, Grreatdog is giving you some good info. I don't think the XT shocks ever had any rebound damping. That's why they need to be rebuilt and revalved before they're of any use. Adding a remote reservoir can help. Give it 200 psi and you can use the stock spring.
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:19 AM   #3409
Captain Caution
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Highway Sprocket 52 T

Hey folks,
I do a lot of highway riding and I found that above 90 kph things got buzzy, and cruising at 100 kph and above was uncomfortable. At 100 the engine was turning over at ~5800 rpm. I then removed the standard 55 tooth rear sprocket and installed a 52. Much better! I can cruise comfortably at 100 now with the engine turning over at 5400. The difference starting from a stop is negligable so it's fine for what i do offroad too. Hope it helps, Captain Caution.
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:31 AM   #3410
Streetfighterpartz
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Could someone post a pic of the way the main wiring harness attaches to the frame. Putting mine together from boxes of parts and the shop manual doesnt show it.

edit: nevermind, P.O. jacked up the harness so I cut all the wrapping off and re-wrapped it correctly.

Streetfighterpartz screwed with this post 06-27-2013 at 06:03 PM
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:06 AM   #3411
Scotty22
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Can anyone tell me what to torque the rear spokes to? I've searched but can't find anything
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Old 06-25-2013, 02:58 PM   #3412
JensEskildsen
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Just enough to make the spokes go "pling" when you tab them with the spokewrench =)
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Old 07-05-2013, 01:11 PM   #3413
Marcus Aureliius
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My XT 350

Hello XT350 friends

I've had this XT 350 for a couple of years - I've had some maintenance done by my local bike shop - but it is still pretty tricky to kickstart - especially when it's warm.
I'm in San Jose, CA - anyone recommend a shop or a mechanic to help me sort this problem?
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Old 07-05-2013, 02:20 PM   #3414
Ever Onward
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If your engines healthy with good compression, your valves are set correctly, the automatic compression release is set correctly, and your carb is all clean and good with a bone stock airbox, it should be a one kick bike warm.

I would eyeball how the airfilter looks, and then maybe the carb innerds after that if all else looks good. Mine is one kick start with over 13k miles.

Whats your start proceedure when warm ?

Nice 350 by the way !
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Old 07-05-2013, 05:43 PM   #3415
Marcus Aureliius
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Thanks Low Budget but....

Sounds like great advice - if I understood a word of it!

It's a 1999 - it's got 1500 miles, never been off road and hasn't got a scratch on it - looks like new:)
I love it cos it reminds me of a DT 125 I had when I was a kid in England.

I'll just take it to the shop and let them cahrge me another $600 for god knows what....

Cheers!
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Old 07-05-2013, 07:01 PM   #3416
SkidMarx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcus Aureliius View Post
Sounds like great advice - if I understood a word of it!

It's a 1999 - it's got 1500 miles, never been off road and hasn't got a scratch on it - looks like new:)
I love it cos it reminds me of a DT 125 I had when I was a kid in England.

I'll just take it to the shop and let them cahrge me another $600 for god knows what....

Cheers!
It's the jetting and Pilot screw.
The California version is jetted even leaner than the 49 state bikes.
You may not find a shop that will mess with either due to emission laws.

I would start with adjusting the pilot screw. In order to get to it, you have to drill out the little brass cap on the bottom of the primary carb. There is a pic and better instructions in this thread. Also a ton of other info.

With proper carb adjustments, the bike goes from one of the worst starters to one of the best.
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:10 AM   #3417
gearheadE30
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Just a heads up guys, if you are going to do much off road riding with high water, you should probably relocate your crank vent. the line runs to the bottom of the airbox, at a lower point than the airbox drain. While it is past the air filter, gritty water can get past it pretty easily. I managed to lose compression in mine after getting a small amount of river water in the airbox. Pulling everything apart conclusively showed that a bunch of small dirt particles had gotten in via the vent and scored the lower parts of the cylinder bore. A good fix would be to relocate it to the top of the airbox along the side somewhere, and cap off the original hole.
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:18 AM   #3418
Captain Caution
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gearheadE30 View Post
Just a heads up guys, if you are going to do much off road riding with high water, you should probably relocate your crank vent. the line runs to the bottom of the airbox, at a lower point than the airbox drain. While it is past the air filter, gritty water can get past it pretty easily. I managed to lose compression in mine after getting a small amount of river water in the airbox. Pulling everything apart conclusively showed that a bunch of small dirt particles had gotten in via the vent and scored the lower parts of the cylinder bore. A good fix would be to relocate it to the top of the airbox along the side somewhere, and cap off the original hole.

Thanks!
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Old 07-08-2013, 02:32 PM   #3419
gearheadE30
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In an exciting turn of events, after pulling apart my engine due to the low compression, I discovered that my cylinder bore was 86.5mm. Normally not a big deal, right? Just bored a size over at some point. Well, the piston is still 86mm. Just to check myself before buying parts, I checked the ring gap of the old rings. Spec: 0.25 to 0.4 mm. Mine: 2.28 mm . No wonder it was low on compression.
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Old 07-09-2013, 09:46 AM   #3420
SkidMarx
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Originally Posted by gearheadE30 View Post
In an exciting turn of events, after pulling apart my engine due to the low compression, I discovered that my cylinder bore was 86.5mm. Normally not a big deal, right? Just bored a size over at some point. Well, the piston is still 86mm. Just to check myself before buying parts, I checked the ring gap of the old rings. Spec: 0.25 to 0.4 mm. Mine: 2.28 mm . No wonder it was low on compression.
That'll do it.
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