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Old 11-06-2009, 12:01 PM   #766
SkidMarx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InfiniteMiles
My 1989 XT only has 15k miles on the clock and its already burning oil. I'm about to tear in to the top end but I can't believe that it would already need valve work or a rebore with only 15k miles. Any thoughts?

I'm going to check
Valve seats
Valve seals
Piston rings
Piston to wall clearance
Gaskets

and the cam shaft bearing clearance, but I'm honestly lost.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I bought this bike because it is simple and reliable, hopefully I'll get this problem fixed and ride cross country next summer.
That's about when my '90 started burning oil.
IMHO, for the older bikes I think time has a lot to do with this.
The seals get dry and the rubber breaks down and you get smoke and leaks and your intake boots fall apart.

Looks like you are covering all the bases for a refresh.
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Old 11-06-2009, 12:24 PM   #767
InfiniteMiles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkidMarx
That's about when my '90 started burning oil.
IMHO, for the older bikes I think time has a lot to do with this.
The seals get dry and the rubber breaks down and you get smoke and leaks and your intake boots fall apart.

Looks like you are covering all the bases for a refresh.
What did you do to correct the problem? I'm hoping new seals, gaskets and boots will be all I need.

The PO didn't know shit, and I'm guessing from the looks of it never cleaned the air filter.

My plug was either showing carbon build up, which would make sense with the filter being filthy, or signs of oil fouling that dried and formed up on the plug, although the PO said he never had a plug foul out and he seamed very trustworthy.

Luckily even with the new exhaust, underneath all the dried oil or carbon was a nice tan/brown plug showing a slight rich mixture, which is a plus in my eyes after reading the horror stories of people cooking there engines and cracking the head.
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Old 11-07-2009, 08:29 AM   #768
SkidMarx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InfiniteMiles
What did you do to correct the problem? I'm hoping new seals, gaskets and boots will be all I need.

The PO didn't know shit, and I'm guessing from the looks of it never cleaned the air filter.

My plug was either showing carbon build up, which would make sense with the filter being filthy, or signs of oil fouling that dried and formed up on the plug, although the PO said he never had a plug foul out and he seamed very trustworthy.

Luckily even with the new exhaust, underneath all the dried oil or carbon was a nice tan/brown plug showing a slight rich mixture, which is a plus in my eyes after reading the horror stories of people cooking there engines and cracking the head.
Intake boots, valve seals, couple of Orings in the carb.
Thing is, if you are doing valve seals, you may as well lap the valves and depending on cylinder wear, hone or bore and piston and rings as needed.
You've got it all apart so it's easy to do.

Due to funds, I cut corners and have pretty much had to dig into the engine every year for the last 3 years to fix something besause of it.
Lesson learned.

My lesson went something like this.
1. Buy bike and ride every day for 3 years with very little maintenance + 1 extra hot day + leaky intake boots = melted head.
Bike sits for 10+ years

2. Got a higher milage head and just slapped it on along with some rings. Freshend up and jetted carb and replaced boots. = Rings don't seal and valve seals leak. Rode it for the summer anyway, but it smoked and one day I forgot to top off the oil. Siezed the engine(a little) and even worse, trashed the lower rod bearings.

3. Got a used crank and rod on ebay. but didn't have the cash for a bore and piston so I just honed the cylinder and replaced the rings. I also eplaced the valve seals and lapped the valves.
Rode the bike for the summer with some piston slap(I expected the slap).
4. Bored cylinder and put in a Wiesco piston. Bike now runs great. There are still seals and faskets that weap oil. The crank seal is the only one I am going to fix as it actually drips a little.

As you can see, I could have saved myself a lot of downtime by just doing everything the first time.
Granted, some stuff was skipped due to money, but some was also skipped due to ignorance or lazyness. Everything that was skipped bit me in the ass though.
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Old 11-10-2009, 10:41 PM   #769
tate
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power gps on xt350

anyone powered a gps from the electrical system of an xt350? if so, was it a pain? i have a garmin 276c that i was thinking about trying to mount on my bike.
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Old 11-11-2009, 03:57 AM   #770
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Yep...

Quote:
Originally Posted by tate
anyone powered a gps from the electrical system of an xt350? if so, was it a pain? i have a garmin 276c that i was thinking about trying to mount on my bike.
Running a Delorme PN20 without issues. A guy I ride with powers his Garmin XX the same way.
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Old 11-11-2009, 05:50 PM   #771
tate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKASY
Running a Delorme PN20 without issues. A guy I ride with powers his Garmin XX the same way.
where and how do you have it wired into the circuit?
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Old 11-12-2009, 02:53 PM   #772
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SKIDMARX... put snorkel back in as you had mentioned, actualy made it stutter much worse from half throttle to w.o.t.

SuperTrapp exhaust coming soon. Any recomendations on how to correct the stuttering issues? Such as fix it before the new pipe OR pipe it, 130 jet, desnorkel and see what happens etc?

All help appreciated.
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Old 11-13-2009, 07:42 AM   #773
SkidMarx
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How did your plug look?
Since it got worse when you reduced airflow, that indicates it's rich on top.

I'd verify that it is rich by doing a long hard pull at 1/2 to full throttle and then kill the engine and check the plug.

Maybe the shop that worked on it did something to cause this.
Maybe the PO had already done some jetting changes. Lot's of other maybes, but if it's rich, throw the supertrapp on and it should be fine or close to it.
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Old 11-13-2009, 12:59 PM   #774
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Can someone with a 97 service manual help me out?

What is the recomended amount of fork oil per side? I'm thinking of changing it this weekend. I have some 15wt. at the house but need to know if I need to get more.


Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-13-2009, 01:17 PM   #775
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I do believe its about 320
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Old 11-13-2009, 01:35 PM   #776
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
I do believe its about 320
Thank You!
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Old 11-14-2009, 01:09 PM   #777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backroadbob.com
From 1994-2004 I put 35,000 trouble-free miles on my XT 350. Rode it everywhere and every place on the East Coast while riding to, riding in, and riding home to/from many Dual Sport Nationals, Blackwaters, and my own DS events. Check my website for details - www.backroadbob.com.

An absolutely indestructible bike. Needs fork, shock, and carb mods to be decent, but the motor's as dependable as a rock. After 35,000 hard miles, the valves showed no wear and nothing broke. The only things that wore out were the tires, brakes, chains, sprockets, and odometer drive hub. A great little bike that's a much better ride, especially on the road, than it has any right to be.
hey bob what kind of shock and fork mods did you do?
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Old 11-15-2009, 05:52 AM   #778
Vibrolux
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XT 350 bad top end noise

Hi Guys:
I recently bought a 92 XT350 and am having a problem with an extremely noisy top end. The engine starts up fine and sounds OK during warm up. However after maybe 5 or 10 minutes it starts making very loud rattling-type noises in the top end (it sounds kind of like a much magnified valve clatter). This is accompanied by a loss of power, almost as if I opened the compression release. Both times this has happened while I was riding the bike and I quickly shut off the engine since it sounds like something is about to seize up.

The first time the bike restarted OK after a couple of minutes and I was able to ride the very short distance (maybe 1 block) back home. However a minute or two after restarting, the noise came back again. Luckily I was in the driveway by then and quickly shut off the motor. I did notice what looked like light smoke coming from around the compression release area.

The second time this occurred I was maybe 3/4 mile away from the house and I shut off the motor, coasted downhill for maybe a minute, then bump-started the engine to life, rode it maybe another 1/4 mile before the noise returned, then killed the engine and coasted back home. Once the noise starts it gets progressively louder, until the point where it sounds like something is about to go very, very wrong.
My suspicion is something related to the compression release, possibly either opening and allowing me to hear the internal engine workings very loudly or maybe sticking inside the cylinder and slapping against the valves or pistons.
Has anyone experienced this problem or something similar? Also, exactly how does this compression release work? Is there a valve that sticks into the cylinder and could possibly interfere with something? There is none of the classic "farting" sounds that I recall when I used to operate the compression release on my old two strokes.
Any advice appreciated.

Jeff
Silver Spring,, MD 92 X350
77 R100S
79 XS650
04 XL1200R
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Old 11-16-2009, 10:06 AM   #779
pera
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Hi everybody,

here you have some photos of my ex-XT350. Surely the best bike Ive had.

Ive used it for every thing as during many years It has been my only vehicle. I did some 6.000/7.000 km. in Morocco were both, she and me, were very happy





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Old 11-16-2009, 10:16 AM   #780
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Hey! nice first post! I am heading to Grenada, today to go riding! the last two pics look like Africa, but tell me the first picture is Espange Veija!
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