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Old 09-19-2010, 01:10 PM   #1
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Corsica 2010 - 2 Austrians dont speak one word french

Floh (friend of mine) and myself wanted to travel to Scotland this year in the last two weeks of June. Due to the bad weather during spring in Austria (it was raining 2 month) we decided to go somewhere where its warm. So we changed the destination to Corsica.
On the weekend we wanted to leave it was raining so heavy that we left on Monday, raining +8C. We drove on the Autobahn to Innsbruck, Bolzano, Modena. At the Brenner the Temperature was 4 degree, in Bolzano +26C.
Day 1 700km Autobahn, leaving in Austria and arrive at the Hotel near Modena.


The food and wine was excellent, one waiter is from Netherland, he spoke German and explained local specialties to us.

Day 2:
Modena to Livorno via Passo Radici. Nice road, beautiful scenery.







http://www.meinalbum.at/GroteFoto-TWUSKHUP.jpg



At 13:00 we reached the harbor and bought the tickets to Bastia.






On the ferry we had 4 hours, so:

We also met some guys from Austria

and Bavaria

We also had the place with the best view on Board

Arriving at Bastia:


We left the ferry at 18:30 and headed to St. Florent, trying to find a Hotel. We asked about 20 Hotels and Pensions, only heard "We are Full" or "It is closed" or "This is not season time".




At 09:00 we found a typical crowded camping place near the beach which let us in, the reastaurant was already closed, so we had some chips and beer and went to sleep.
This was a very strange experiance and reminded me to our trip to the french alps, where we also had to asked 5 to 10 Hotels for a room before we got one, but we always got one. This french guys do not like people who don't speak french, and they make sure you regonize it.
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Old 09-19-2010, 02:08 PM   #2
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Day 3:
We went into the town did some sight seeing, not much to see in such a touristic town. Then we were very lucky and found a pizza place which was willing to sell pizzas and Coke to us. The other places told us they are full or every table is reserved for lunch time





After the pizza of questionable quality we took a ride to the north cap of the island. The roads and the scenery were great.













After this nice round trip we came back to the camping ground, had some child beer (0,2l bottle )and food which we bought before in a super market.


We sat outside of our tent, talked and drank beer. At 10:00pm a guy came and said we should be quiet now because it is night time. We went to sleep and left next morning.


Day 4:
We headed south on N193 and D27 near Ajaccio, N193 is a very nice and curvy road with perfect asphalt. The D27 is a small winding road with changing asphalt quality, from perfect to miserable and in some places there is no asphalt or gavel just dirt for 50 - 100 meters.



Careful around the corner on the small roads, you never know whats behind the curve


Lunchtime



Continued on D27 then to D3 near Ajaccio








When we were near Ajaccio we decided to go south on N196 and try to find a nice camping site to stay for a while. I stopped at an agrotourismo sign where the local farmer showed what you can buy at their farm. One of them had a camping symbol, so we gave it a try.
On D757 between Petreto-Bicchisano and Porto Pollo in P.de Calzola we found the place. It is a huge areal and beside of us there were 4 other partys, 200 meters to the next. The owner was a very nice guy and explained us that the next super market is 25km away in Porto Pollo, but we can also go for dinner to the Hotel one km away. So I putet up the tent and Floh drove to the Hotel and tried to get 4 bottles of beer for setting up the camp. Afterwards we wanted to go for dinner to the Hotel.
Floh drove to the Hotel, and explained in english language our plan (his english is better than mine), the owner told him that this place is closed and there is nothing he can buy. Floh was looking around, there were people at the bar drinking beer and other people at the tabels eating their dinner. Floh was asking again, the owner of the hotel told him to leave. What a
So Floh drove 25km one way and bought us "dinner" at the super market, we started to dislike these people here.




After fome ravioli and 3 beers the world was fine again. The dog of the owner was joining us for dinner, we had music from Flohs Netbook, food, beer, wine and slept outside under a tree.



Le Wuff didn't like my singing

Le Wuff joining us for the night.
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Old 09-19-2010, 02:34 PM   #3
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Day 5:
We rode up to the "Col de St Eustache"


Then we saw this:

This is the D557 to Propriano



We filled up our bikes in Propriano and rode back on D19 to the "Col de St Eustache"












On the "Col de St Eustache" is a little hut where a very nice and funny guy is selling local bio food and beverages. We had a very good cheese sandwich, beer espresso and a very good time with 2 german riders and the locals.

In this bus was the food and the beaverages cooled on ice.


Then it was time to ride back to our camp. Back at the camp we tried to contact the KTM dealer in Ajaccio, because Flohs headlight quitted operation and I needed my tires changed. Nobody was answering the phone, so we contacted our dealer in Austria and he contacted the dealer in Ajaccio via the dealer net. The Austrian dealer set up an apointment for us on Monday.
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Old 09-19-2010, 03:03 PM   #4
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Day 6:
Col de St Eustache, Aullene, Col de Vaccia





Olivese to Zicavo




Zicavo - Col de Verde - Col de Sorba






These pass roads heat the bike up very good




N193 to Bocognano - D27 then D29 to Eccica Suarella


These roads are eating the tires







After this long ride my helmet was wet inside, but we had a perfect drying device on the campground
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Old 09-19-2010, 03:19 PM   #5
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Day 7:
Col de Eustace - Aullene. In Aullene we rode to a grocery store with 2 gas pumps in front of it. In the same moment I stopped at the gas pump it was switched off, I went inside the owner told me that only Diesel is available, believe it or not - we didn't and greeted him with one finger as we left. Rode the D69 to Propriano filled our bikes at a big BP station and rode the very nice back roads D268 and D248 to the Col de Meta. D59 to Col de Bacinu, D368 via Col de Punticell to Zonza. On D420 back to Aullene had a beer at the little hut on Col de Eustace, then back to the camp.




How to get rid of your old car on Corsica

On the way to the camp we rode through 2 villages and asked at 7 restaurants for dinner (around 7pm on a sunday). They told us: "no season" or "we are closed" or "we are waiting for a lot of people, everything is reserved". So it was back to soup, ravioli and wine.


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Old 09-19-2010, 03:59 PM   #6
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Day 8:
Monday, I strapped my tires on the bike and we rode to Ajaccio. 20km out of the town my rear tire went flat. We tried to pump air in but it did not hold, then I tried to change it but it was so hot (38C in the shade) that I gave up. We strapped the wheel and the new tire on Flohs bike and he went to the KTM dealer.


Floh arrived at the KTM shop at 09:30, the dealer told him to come back at 14:30 at 17:00 the tire will be ready. Floh explained the situation and that we are the guys whit the appointment made by the Austrian KTM dealer. The french guy was yelling at him that he has no time now and he should leave. Floh turned arround, the french guy saw his Austrian Biker patch, then the dealer asked him if he is from Austria. Floh said yes, the dealer asked again if he is not from Germany, Floh said that he is from Austria. The dealer told him to come to the backside of the shop, then the tire was changed, his front light was repaired and the dealer told him that we should go to another place to change my front tire because he has so much work. Floh went back to my breakdown site.
Meanwhile a lot of people drove by, the only guys who stopped and asked if i need help were 3 swiss riders on supermotos and one Italian guy on a Africa Twin.
I mounted the rear tire and we drove to Ajaccio to find a tire shop to change the front.


On the way to ajaccio we passed 2 tire shops and asked them to change my front tire. One told us he only does cars, the other one told us to leave imidiatly he do not want us here.
At this time it was 12;00 - siesta time, the shops reopen at 14:00. We rode arround trying to find tire shops. We found 2 big chain stores (Point S and Euromaster) and 3 small places. All of them told us they only do cars, but the last one was very friendly and gave me the adress of http://www.speedbikeajaccio.com/
We arrived at this shop at 14:30, they offered us coffee, brought my bike to the garage, changed the tire and brought the bike back at 15:00 Perfect service and very friendly nice people. All the other shops were very unpolite or did not even talk to us, exept the words car only.

The day was almost over and we were pissed off, so we rode back to the camp via D555, D255A. After we passed Pietrosella we left the asphalt and rode on gravel to Sta-Manza. this gravel road is in bad shape and very steep in some places, perfect for the 990 ADV "R".





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Old 09-19-2010, 04:32 PM   #7
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Day 9:
It was getting very hot now and riding was not fun anymore, beside after the experience yesterday we had it with the French hospitality. The ferry ticket was for Thursday (in 2 days), so we decided to leave the camp and go to a mountain shelter on Col de Verde.
As we left the camp we had a very nice talk to the sister of the owner, which spoke perfect english and some german. We told her our experiences with some french guys, she told us that most of the people who don't profit directly from the tourism hate foreigners, specially germans.
So we rode to Col de Verde via D757 and D28 (small back roads), perfect ride only to hot weather. Sorry no pictures made.
Shelter on the top of the pass road:


Big bugs up there

Typical shelter bed


We arrived at 16:00, not a lot of people where there and dinner was served at 19:00, so we
At 19:00 dinner was served, about 40 mountain hikers were also there. At 20:00 after dinner they all went to bed. Floh looked at me I looked at him, no one of us knew what is going on. In an Austrian mountain shelter the people sit together until midnight, talk to each other, have some beers and fun. We asked the young employees (students at sumer work) if we can have 2 more beers and a bottle of wine. They brought us the drinks, we sat outside enjoyed our drinks, watched the sunset and had a good time.
At 21:30 they finished their work and joined us, all of a sudden they all where able to speak English very good (before only one spoke a little). We had good conversation and some more wine until midnight. They told us, that they are very happy that we are here today, because all the guests go to bed at 20:00 and it is very boring for them up there.

In the morning the hikers got up at 04:00 and left at 05:00, it was still dark and they were packing and leaving using their flashlights to see. I never have seen something stupid like that, going hiking for vacation (what is nice from time to time) and sleep before sunset, go before sunrise.

At breakfast the owner of the shelter told us that the hikers have been complaining about us, because we woke them up when we got to bed and one of us was snoring really loud.
At first we wanted to stay 2 nights, but after that experience and the talk to the owner we left. That was also what he suggested: "Leave NOW".
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Old 09-19-2010, 04:55 PM   #8
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Day 10:
We left the shelter at 08:00 and took the back roads direction north left and right of the main road N193 and N197. Perfect riding again.



As we came near the north coast some clouds showed up and the temperature dropped to 25C, perfect.





We came to the north coast, we checked the same camping place like on day one. The owner recognized us, but allowed us to camp for one night after some talking.
We went swimming in the sea, had some beers and after 10pm a bottle of wine on the beach which we had for us alone.

Trying to dry our clothes


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Old 09-19-2010, 05:15 PM   #9
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Day 11:
We woke up at 09:00, went swimming and packed our stuff. The ferry will be leaving at 15:00 from Bastia, so we have plenty of time. We checked out at 12:00 rode to Bastia and had lunch at an american burger "restaurant". It was the only restaurant beside the mountain shelter and the low quality tourist trap pizza place where they wanted to serve us on the whole island. We never tried any restaurants in typical tourist places.

Coming to Livorno ITALY


We hit the Autostrada towards Firenze and got off half way in Montopoli. At the Hotel "Quattro Giggli" we asked for a room, the old lady at the recption did not speak english or german, but was very nice and friendly. So after some conversation (and about 20 Italian words we knew) we got a room and one of the best 5 course meals I ever had.
We were sitting outside and enjoyed being in Italy and out of France. Hey we got a very nice room, excellent food and wine for a good price, served by people who were happy that we were their guests. Never got that on Corsica or in France before.
At 11:00pm a dutch guy come along the road and had a drink with us. He was there for business, so we talk a little and had some wine.



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Old 09-19-2010, 05:34 PM   #10
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Day 12:
After a very good breakfast we left and hit the Autostrada towards Firenze and continued to Venice and Belluno. There the Autostrada ended and we rode the passo delle Mauria to Tolmezzo. Then the Nassfeld pass to Austria.




Riding the last pass road before coming back to Austria made me a little excited so I was riding like a maniac. This was the first time I scratched the 35 liter boxes with the "R", with my old 2007 N they scratched on every pass road (scratched corners now mounted to the back), but not with the "R" before.

After riding the Katschberg Pass and Obertauern I was finaly at home. 840km in 12 hours riding time, half of it on Autostrade, the other half on alp pass roads.


The great final:
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Old 09-19-2010, 06:10 PM   #11
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Summary:
Corsica is one of the best riding locations I have ever been to. You will get nice curvy roads with asphalt like a grand prix circuit. There are also small back roads with terrible asphalt, nice gravel or washes out gravel with big stones on the road. So there is enough of everything for everybody. The landscape is amazing, nice lonely beaches to high snow covered mountains, within 30km pass road riding. There is no traffic on the roads beside tourist season time, which is 1st of July to 31st of August they said, and outside the tourist towns.
At the tourist towns on the beaches you can buy all the stuff you need, inside the island grocery stores, gas stations are very hard to find. ATM's we didn't find at all except in the big towns on the shoreline.

The camping place, at the farm we found with a lot of luck, was the best thing that could happen.
Beside of some very nice and friendly persons (you can count them on 2 hands), we experienced that people are impolite and not friendly at all, they let you know that they do not like you. Some of them refused service to us, like one gas station, several restaurants, most tire shops and all hotels.

So we were lucky that we didn't had any major problems, because if you have a problem outside the tourist towns, nobody will stop and help you, at least no french guy.

After this trip and similar experiences in France on several business trips, like in the company everybody speaks english - outside nobody, and 2 motor cycle rides to the french alps with similar experiences I will never go to this country again. N E V E R (or only in an chain driven vehicle)
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Old 09-19-2010, 06:35 PM   #12
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Nice pics and looks like it would be a great place to go except for the local tossers. Can't believe people can be like that.

You should come to the UK next trip, the beer's warm, the women are fat and the weather's pissy but you'll always get a friendly welcome.
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Old 09-20-2010, 04:12 AM   #13
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Great ride report and great photos. Too bad about the ignorant Frenchmen.
I have been to Austria and hope to go back again.
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Old 09-23-2010, 03:00 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AUT-EasyRider
I will never go to this country again. N E V E R
Quite the opposite of our experiences in Corsica (and France in general). We have been served politely everywhere and felt really 'at home'. The difference may be that we speak French (more or less), but I can hardly imagine that making all the difference. Strange. As for scenery: indeed a beautiful island!
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Old 09-23-2010, 03:23 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AUT-EasyRider
Summary:
After this trip and similar experiences in France on several business trips, like in the company everybody speaks english - outside nobody, and 2 motor cycle rides to the french alps with similar experiences I will never go to this country again. N E V E R (or only in an chain driven vehicle)
Well, this may be true for Corsica but absolutely not (for my experience) for France. I've been in France several times and I've to say that French people is very kind and helpfull with motorbikes. Even if I was not so optimistic with France before traveling there by motorbike, now I've to say that I love that country and the french people in general.
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