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Old 10-31-2007, 05:08 AM   #16
wsdbikes OP
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I read in a couple posts that the IMS Idle Mixture Screws go richer as you screw them in.
there is a good selection of info on orange crush on this subject.

All I can tell you is 1/4 turn in made a huge difference. no popping on deceleration, no surging of idle.


Quote:
Originally Posted by tkorpi
I'm pretty sure that those are fuel screws. Turning them in will reduce fuel and lean out the mixture. Turn them out for a richer mixture.
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Old 04-06-2013, 01:22 PM   #17
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Just picked up an 950 Adventure 04 with a 2-1, but previous owner (PO) used a FMF Q series muffler from another 950 intended for a 2 exhaust can system if I understood him right. He is an advrider and the bike was a steal so I don't want to step on toes I just need to git the jetting right for it.

I think step one is going to be a different properly sized spark arrested can. I too dont like stupid loud pipes, but I like to be able to hear the exhaust over windnoise for tuning purposes. Right now its so damn quiet I can't even hear it except at idle.

So... I suppose to properly start my thread hijack I am looking for a good resource for other folks trial an error cause I am not rich, and I got one shot at this. What is a good can?

Who knows can alone may fix all my woes but first a little background on the bike - PO mentioned the following fuel/air modifications:
"Head 2 wind jetting -BMC high flow air filter -KTM UNI pre filter with extra filter skins."
This is of course complete spainish to me I need to do my homework.

Currently the bike runs ... Er kinda. Rough starting, rough idle, idle too low (approx 1000rpm to 1200rpm), idle adjuster wont turn in any farther. It likes to stall at stopsigns (clutch is dragging a bit which may have somewhat to do with that). There are significant hesitations right off idle and will stall if you whack the throttle off idle. It has another hesitation at 3/4 throttle and picks up right after then hesitates again at WFO.

No popping or funny noises, rough running in spots which I think/hope is all jetting related.

17 tooth front sprocket - will NOT power wheelie.. I tried lots :p but I am not good enough to try clutch up wheelies.

If I had to guess I think it was jetted richer, and 2-1 is got it corked up bad. PO was damn good with documentation of other service and upgrades, a credit to him really. I was impressed, but he alluded to a dyno run but mysteriously didn't show me the printouts. I think it was perhaps intentional. He included stock jetting "in case I wanted to mess with it". It was hard not to chuckle when he said this after a test run... Yes yes... Jetting will need tinkering and we both knew it.
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Old 04-06-2013, 01:35 PM   #18
wpbarlow
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montibank-- you may get some responses here, but I think you'd do better in Orange Crush with your issue.
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Old 04-06-2013, 02:43 PM   #19
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Drat ... Another subscription, another forum, another account. Soo much info to be had.

Thanks for the suggestion - I will likely end up there as well.

After reading this:

http://www.ktm950.info/how/Orange%20...t/h2w_kit.html

And this:

http://www.ktm950.info/how/Orange%20...carb_sync.html

It really sounds like my carbs are out of sync. The description of symptoms is dead on what I am experiencing when testing on my pant seat dyno.
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Old 04-06-2013, 06:04 PM   #20
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I sure miss that SM.

I would suggest using a can from a literbike to start with and work from there if you really feel the current can is too restrictive.

If you want to leave the bike with me till around Oct I would be happy to work out the jetting for you
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Old 04-06-2013, 07:02 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wsdbikes View Post
I sure miss that SM.

I would suggest using a can from a literbike to start with and work from there if you really feel the current can is too restrictive.

If you want to leave the bike with me till around Oct I would be happy to work out the jetting for you
Hah nice ... The trick is going to be finding a liter bike with a USFS stamp on it and something not too obnoxiously loud.
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:57 AM   #22
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Well crap. Figured I would tear bike down to start fixing it. Pulled filters off... Started bike, covered front carb, bike shut down immediately. Covered rear carb... Bike runs. What? Little/no change... Uh oh. Try again... Same. Really make a good seal with my hand... Bike chugs right along. Shit ... Soo that is why I couldnt turn the idle up any more... It was already in all the way and running on one cyclinder.

Shit... I think I just bought a lemon. Crap crap crap.

Soo just to verify... I unplug rear cyclinder spark plug boot. Bike runs ... Just like normal.

Damn shoulda test rode one before so I knew what kinda power to expect. Damn.
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:31 AM   #23
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Pilot screws control air or fuel depending on the location on the carb. If the screw is between the intake manifold and throttle butterfly they control fuel. Screwing them in reduces the fuel making the mixture leaner. If the screw is between the carb's mouth and throttle butterfly it controls air, screwing it in reduces air making the mixture richer.
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:09 PM   #24
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So. Check the obvious things related to the rear cyl. Spark plug? Coil/cap tight? Check carb for blocked jets--start with idle jet. Is the idle adjustment screw linkage OK? Adjustment screws are fuel screws--in means less fuel and leaner. Out for more fuel--richer.

Good luck
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Old 04-07-2013, 04:25 PM   #25
montibank
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Ya trying the simplest first, or so I thought. Cant get the rear plug out none of my sockets are thin walled enough. No one local sells thin walled sockets, in fact I got a lot of blank stares and "huh" from all the local auto places I called. Spent the last two hours trying to sand down one enough... No luck there.

Looks like this isnt gonna git fixed anytime soon.
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:52 PM   #26
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With motor running, did rear cyl carb slide open when you cracked the throttle? Might want to check the diaphram for a hole/tear...
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:07 PM   #27
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Ooooh kay... So got it pulled apart some... Rear valves are just tight... All of em. Like well under min spec.

So simple fix... Valves balance carbs and I should be back in business.

Resume original hijack ...

Liter bike exhaust can suggestions?
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:09 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renogeorge View Post
With motor running, did rear cyl carb slide open when you cracked the throttle? Might want to check the diaphram for a hole/tear...
Yep. And I checked the boot its in good shape.
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Old 04-14-2013, 11:51 AM   #29
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Its running. Ok, not great but running so back to the search for a new exhaust can. I am gonna call these guys and see what they think:

http://www.twobros.com/cgi-bin/shopp...y=005-3130406V
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Old 04-14-2013, 12:26 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montibank View Post
Its running. Ok, not great but running so back to the search for a new exhaust can. I am gonna call these guys and see what they think:

http://www.twobros.com/cgi-bin/shopp...y=005-3130406V
Don't worry, orange crush will come to you.

First, the pipe is not your problem right now. Make the bike run on both cylinders before you get worried about the FMF on one side not flowing enough, the FMF works fine there, I had one on a 2-1 for 25,000 miles before a friend gave me an akra that he had extra from his 2-1 conversion. I don't have any problem power wheelieing in the first two gears, and in the third with a slight rise.
If I were you, I'd start where I would with any new-to-me bike: adjust the valves, really thoroughly clean the carbs and write down all jets and settings, change the oil, change the sparkplugs, change/clean the airfilter. It's a fair bit of work, but less than chasing your tail trying to find a problem. Stock jets with the needle raised one clip and no prefilter work very well on this bike if your carbs are clean, I'd start there before you modify, or start near there
Stock:
157.5 front main, 162.5 rear, 42 pilot jet, fuel screws 2.25 turns out, floats set at 3-3.5mm down from gasket surface, idle air jet #50 (I think, this is from memory, maybe double check at ktm950.info). Needle clip at 2nd slot from top (non-pointy) end stock, I recommend moving it to 3rd.

My jetting is exactly the same except I have 165 main jets now, I thought the stock jetting got a bit lean on the top end. I have been through H2W jetting and a few other configurations, These were ok, but I prefer what I have now- best power everywhere, IMHO. I may shim the needles to end up between 2nd and 3rd clips, since fuel mileage is a concern for me, and I seem to be getting mid 30s right now, would always like to get a bit more range from my tank. . . .

By the way, inspect the carb diaphragms very carefully, and try switching the stick-coils that go on the spark plug, see if you can get the back cylinder to fire. It's probably not the valves, though the valves might make it run not quite as good as it could.
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