Versys owners checkin

[jdrocks]

Originally Posted by BuffWv

Yep 10w40 I am thinking 550 miles then 1000 then 2500 etc

hey Mr. BWV, 15/50 M1 is what you want. off the shelf at wmart or the parts stores, filters there also. if you're changing at 1000, dump the full syn in then. i've run the M1 for 60-70,000 miles in these ptwin motors, good stuff.

if ya plan on riding that thing in the WV snow, then 5/40 Rotella full syn is what ya want for those months.

[BuffWv]

Hey guys what is the sensor on the counter shaft for? The speedo maybe. If so then by jumping to a 16 tooth how would one go about recalibrating the speedo?

[BuffWv]

Originally Posted by jdrocks

hey Mr. BWV, 15/50 M1 is what you want. off the shelf at wmart or the parts stores, filters there also. if you're changing at 1000, dump the full syn in then. i've run the M1 for 60-70,000 miles in these ptwin motors, good stuff.

if ya plan on riding that thing in the WV snow, then 5/40 Rotella full syn is what ya want for those months.

Does this oil still have the additives for the wet clutch set up? And which oils still have the good stuff I had thought about the new oils alot but with all the new roller lifters and rockers there leaving the good stuff out.

[ec90t]

Originally Posted by BuffWv

Does this oil still have the additives for the wet clutch set up? And which oils still have the good stuff I had thought about the new oils alot but with all the new roller lifters and rockers there leaving the good stuff out.

The Mobil 1 will be fine in your bike, it has the right additives. I've been using using it for the last 40K miles with no issues. 3K mile service intervals will serve you well. It cost all of $10 to do an oil change on the V if you can catch the jugs of oil on sale like I did ($13.37 for 4 quarts jugs of M1 10w40 and Purolator filter $3.50 Just a smidge over two quarts of oil to fill the crankcase and filter)

[jdrocks]

Originally Posted by BuffWv

Hey guys what is the sensor on the counter shaft for? The speedo maybe. If so then by jumping to a 16 tooth how would one go about recalibrating the speedo?

keep the damped OEM countershaft sprocket and change your gearing with the rear sprocket if desired. the stock gearing is spot on for your area and the way you are likely to ride.

[jdrocks]

Originally Posted by BuffWv

Does this oil still have the additives for the wet clutch set up? And which oils still have the good stuff I had thought about the new oils alot but with all the new roller lifters and rockers there leaving the good stuff out.

more important, those two oils do not have the friction modifiers that will kill your wet clutch. i've changed the M1 enroute at 5-6000 miles and it looks like it came right out of the bottle. a more typical interval would be a routine change at 2500-3000 with filter.

i do like the 15/50 M1 for general use, and the subtle improvement in transmission performance.

[ec90t]

Originally Posted by thorinoakenshield

Wow! Nice deal. You have almost a thousand dollars in accessories right there....

Have a looksee at Twisted Throttle's website and get back to me. What I have is in the order of $1400!

[browneye]

M1 isn't bad oil, but it's not what I would put in my motorcycles. If you want to see what the next best thing to amsoil is, here's a very comprehensive test report with all your favorite brands:
http://www.syntheticlubes.com/pdf/g2156.pdf

A motorcycle's combination of gearbox, crankcase, and wet clutch pose a substantial challenge to conventional lubricants. This whitepaper also contains a good explanation of what properties are unique and how they apply to this challenge, as well as what brand excels at what.

If you have to have mobil at least get the one specific for motorcycle engines. They'll have the anti-foaming additive the gearbox needs. The heavier viscosity product does not have friction modifiers so helps to prevent clutch slip. The car-specific weights, like 0-30, 5-30, etc. are labeled 'energy saving' and do have the modifiers.

Synthetics are more shear stable for motorcycle gearboxes. The base stock molecules are uniform. Amsoil is one of the very few that starts out with full synthetic PAO group 1V base stocks.

I can't believe we started an oil discussion in this thread.

[jdrocks]

Originally Posted by browneye

M1 isn't bad oil, but it's not what I would put in my motorcycles. If you want to see what the next best thing to amsoil is, here's a very comprehensive test report with all your favorite brands:
http://www.syntheticlubes.com/pdf/g2156.pdf

of all the oils I've tried in this ptwin motor, both dino and full synthetic, the Amsoil product was the worst performer, a noticeable change in shifting in the first mile. i wasn't worried about damage to the internals, but i went back to M1 and smooth shifting at the first opportunity. opinions vary.

[Mknpwr]

I've got a couple days off coming up next week, I plan on doing a bit of riding up around Lake Moultrie and Lake Marion. Looking forward to it. Might make it a tour de power plants so to speak. I'll post up some photos afterwards.

Sent from my rotary dial phone

[BuffWv]

Originally Posted by jdrocks

keep the damped OEM countershaft sprocket and change your gearing with the rear sprocket if desired. the stock gearing is spot on for your area and the way you are likely to ride.

Got ya now if i can just find a buyer for this 16 tooth sprocket I just got..

[browneye]

Originally Posted by jdrocks

of all the oils I've tried in this ptwin motor, both dino and full synthetic, the Amsoil product was the worst performer, a noticeable change in shifting in the first mile. i wasn't worried about damage to the internals, but i went back to M1 and smooth shifting at the first opportunity. opinions vary.

Well, that's good enough for me...I will never ever use any of that shiite product again.

Seriously, compared to what? Mobile1 car oil? OMG.

[ec90t]

Originally Posted by browneye

M1 isn't bad oil, but it's not what I would put in my motorcycles. If you want to see what the next best thing to amsoil is, here's a very comprehensive test report with all your favorite brands:
http://www.syntheticlubes.com/pdf/g2156.pdf

A report paid for by AmsoilI'll bet they didn't manipulate the outcome any The one thing I took from my college stat's class was you can make data support any result you desire.

Back in the early and mid 90's I wrenched on a road racing team that won several WERA National Championships. We used Mobil 1 (the regular car stuff) and never had a single falure due to the oil we were using. When we pulled the engines apart for inspection the bearings/cylinders/clutch exhibited very little in the way of wear. These motorcycles were ran in both sprint and endurance races.

Keep drinking the Kool-Aid and others will be profiting from your foolishness

[rotor74]

cerro de la media luna, Sierra Gorda, Queretaro, MEXICO.

[jdrocks]

Originally Posted by browneye

Well, that's good enough for me...I will never ever use any of that shiite product again.

glad to see you're coming around on this oil selection topic, lord knows you're doing that moto a big favor.