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Old 10-23-2007, 02:33 PM   #31
hogmolly
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I have an omega on my 93 and rick has been fabulous to work with. I'll probably go with an omega on my 95 mainly because I don't know where I'd mount the diode rectifier. I prefer having my bike look stock. I would love to see some of the mounting options you duralast guys have come up with.
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Old 10-23-2007, 02:57 PM   #32
Cigars&Scotch OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hogmolly
I have an omega on my 93 and rick has been fabulous to work with. I'll probably go with an omega on my 95 mainly because I don't know where I'd mount the diode rectifier. I prefer having my bike look stock. I would love to see some of the mounting options you duralast guys have come up with.
If you read the install PDF, they give you a braket to install the rect/regulator next to the battery. It kind of makes sense. You are running the AC power for the distance from the rotor to the battery, inducing very little loss over the span. Granted we are taking about a whole 24 in. In addition you are keeping the electronics away from a hot motor where there could be thermal damage.

I have read Snowbums right up as posted here in the thread. I do have some issues with his testing procedure. Not that I claim to ever have or will have as much knowledge about airheads as he does.

The issue I have is that he is testing to a battery to absorb the power. He should be using a load device to get power readings. If you battery is near full, no matter how much power the system makes, the battery is not going to take it.

If he had a standard load, say a bunch of light bulbs, you could get the actual watts being generated from the system, as long as the load was greater than the power being generated. Throwing it into battery seems to be a variable in the excersise. I would set up the test with the leads from the regulator wired directly to my load through a watt meter. Let the bike run off the battery for ignition and what ever else it needs. That way I issolate the charging system from the rest of the bike including the battery. Rev the motor to specific test points and read the watts/volts and amps being generated till I reach a max (without over reving the motor).

Then plot those test point on a graph and compare the results.

I don't know if this is correct, but it looks right in my head. What do you guys think


Watt meter



Maximum Voltage60 volts
Minimum Voltage with no receiver battery4.5 volts
Minimum Voltage with receiver batteryZero Volts
Maximum Amps while discharging70 Amps
Maximum Amps while charging10 Amps
Maximum Power4,200 Watts
Current resolution10 Milliamps
Voltage resolution20 Millivolts
Power resolution0.1 Watts
Maximum amp hours94 Amp Hours
Amp Hour resolution0.01 Amp Hour
Current Consumption10 Milliamps
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Old 10-24-2007, 01:34 AM   #33
Wirespokes
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Sounds reasonable to me.
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Old 10-25-2007, 07:34 PM   #34
Cogswell
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I put the Omega diode board and regulator in my bike during the rebuild. Only have about 1300 mi on it so far but it seem to work well for me.


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Old 12-03-2008, 04:24 AM   #35
brassmonkey001
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So, any more thoughts on either of these systems now that you guys have been running them for a while?
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Old 12-03-2008, 07:34 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigars&Scotch
If he had a standard load, say a bunch of light bulbs, you could get the actual watts being generated from the system, as long as the load was greater than the power being generated. Throwing it into battery seems to be a variable in the excersise. I would set up the test with the leads from the regulator wired directly to my load through a watt meter. Let the bike run off the battery for ignition and what ever else it needs. That way I issolate the charging system from the rest of the bike including the battery. Rev the motor to specific test points and read the watts/volts and amps being generated till I reach a max (without over reving the motor).

Then plot those test point on a graph and compare the results.

I don't know if this is correct, but it looks right in my head. What do you guys think
I think you're into something. My GS has the Omega system and and heated grips. I run a Widder vest. I have a lawn and garden tractor battery. This is what I found in an enforced experiment.

My bike was in storage from Oct 07- May 08. Battery dead as McCain's campaign. Jump started it and rode about 150 miles 4K-5K revs. Battery charged and stayed charged. Nice Spring days.

Back in storage from late May until last Saturday. Now it's cold outside. Rode about 150 miles on the interstate, about 5200 revs running vest (cycling it) and grips. Battery did not charge fully. Took close to 300 miles to get it charged and it's still struggling. Plenty of water. It may be dying, but I thought I'd post my observations.

The good news is the Omega pumps out enough juice to roast me in the vest. The grips got hotter as the battery charged, if that makes sense. It's a good system and $$$ available, I may put one on my RT, since it's the year 'round two-up rig.
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Old 01-13-2009, 08:47 PM   #37
BrianK
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I'm thinking of investing in a charging system upgrade for my 84 R100RT. System is fine til I plug in the Gerbings jacket and gloves (and I really need trouser liners and socks...it was 15 degrees today, and this is this week's
"warm" day) and then... not fine.

I'm leaning towards the Enduralast. Rick Jones is fantastic, that's the only thing that's holding me back. Rick - start selling Enduralasts!
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Old 01-13-2009, 09:02 PM   #38
GullPilot
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Got the Enduralast this fall, the install was a breeze. But I haven't had alot of time to test it out.
With about 2000 rpm was showing 14.2v at the battery with a 55w headlamp.
Add 2 35w PIAA's and I showed about 13.9-14.0v
Add grips 13.8v
This was all tested statically, snow is too deep about now:)

It seems to me the brushes and diode board are "old tech" IMHO, getting the reg/rectifier close to the battery and away from the heat seems like a good move. Only time will tell about the permanent magnet rotor heat saturation issue.
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Old 01-25-2009, 02:31 PM   #39
BrianK
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I just installed the EnduraLast today. A bit more work than I expected, with the wiring, but I did want all connections soldered and shrunk wrap, so I took my time. Too, mine is an RT and the fairing makes most jobs a little harder.

Started right up though, and a couple very slight revs (to maybe 2K RPMs) had my voltmeter showing 14 volts, which I've NEVER seen before - maybe 13 at 5K RPMs at best, without accessories going. Now, the voltmeter may not be accurate, but it is probably at least consistent, so there's a pretty noticeable improvement already.

I think I'm gonna like this....
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Old 01-25-2009, 10:44 PM   #40
dlew
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Anyone care to offer what the installation time of the Enduralast might be? Obviously mileage will vary....
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Old 01-26-2009, 06:50 AM   #41
GullPilot
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I did mine over the course of 2 days.
The first day I removed the old rotor/stator, diode board and wiring, cleaned the area and installed the new rotor and stator.
Maybe 2 hours as I went pretty methodically.

What held me up was locating a good spot for the regulator/rectifier. On my bike (an 88 R100gs).
It would not fit well in the recommended spot (left side of the battery box).
After a few hours of mostly staring at it and thinking (and a trip to the hardware store for a bracket) I found just as good a spot on the right side of the battery box.
I can post a few photos if you like.

The final wiring (which I'm most comfortable with) took about 2 hours.

I imagine a pro could do the whole thing in about 2-3 hours though.
I didn't try to rush the job.
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Old 01-26-2009, 09:44 AM   #42
bgoodsoil
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I'm by no means a 'pro' but it took me about 3 hours to install the Enduralast. here's where I put the regulator on my '85 G/S:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/attac...1&d=1225927393

not the best picture but you can see it on the far left, the white labels are the warnings that came with the reg--I just stuck 'em on there in case I want to relocate it later. As part of the installation you have to run a cable from the mount of the reg to the negative post on your battery. This makes it a straight shot using only about 6" of wire. There's a big negative cable that runs down to the tranny there too,so you can tie your grounds together and run the same #8 wire to both, looks a bit cleaner.

One thing I wish was in the instructions: Your stator and rotor have a very very small gap between them. This is a good thing since that means there is less loss. I was really worried that they would touch after the install so I got a small piece of notebook paper and put it in between the two, then slid it all the way around the rotor making sure there was a gap. I found this trick out on this forum somewhere, thank you ADVRider!

I haven't had this on the bike long, about 5k miles. No problems so far. My charging light never comes on and, of course, it used to stay on at idle.

The stock set-up is run through the charge indicator bulb, so if that burns out you're bike won't charge. I switched to a TrailTech Vector for my speedo and dash. Using the stock charging system, I don't know if it would have worked.

Also, ditching the diode board leaves you some spare room to stash things in the top of the alternator cover:



Good for spare keys, some cash, insurance info or parts that won't be affected by heat. Make sure and get a tupperware dish that's microwaveable
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:37 AM   #43
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Sheesh, I guess I'm the slowest. I spent about 2 hours removing the old parts and wiriing. The next day was the install, probably spent 4 hours doing that and buttoning it up. I imagine I could've cut at least an hour or more off that by using the supplied posi-lock and crimped connectors, but I soldered and shrank-wrap everything, lost a lot of time balancing wires and soldering irons, unplugging soldering iron to use heat gun to shrink shrint-wrap, etc.

I had a bit of a problem with the regulator placement also, or thought I did. I ended up putting it on the back of the battery box, just where EnduraLast recommends, but for a while I didn't think that was gonna work and was trying to work out an alternative. Call that 45 minutes wasted.

Still, directions were fantastic - very clear and very detailed.

I'm happy with it!
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Old 01-26-2009, 02:48 PM   #44
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One thing that seems to be overlooked in these discussions is the condition of wires and connectors. You can get a lot more juice to the right places by cleaning and protecting (NoAlOX) the connectors.

Cleaning the battery terminals and improving the ground works wonders too.

Small, cheap things that produce good results.

Years ago we had an acronym called FITCAL: Find, inspect, test, clean, adjust, lubricate (IIRC) that applied to the old tactical radios. It still works.
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Old 01-26-2009, 04:11 PM   #45
bgoodsoil
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Quote:
Cleaning the battery terminals and improving the ground works wonders too.
I read a post by StephenB(maybe a relative of yours?) that said to run a heavy negative from the battery up to the diode board.
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