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Old 01-26-2009, 03:15 PM   #46
RandyB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgoodsoil
I read a post by StephenB(maybe a relative of yours?) that said to run a heavy negative from the battery up to the diode board.
He's the smart twin. I'm the good looking one.

No relation.
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Old 01-26-2009, 06:21 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgoodsoil
I'm by no means a 'pro' but it took me about 3 hours to install the Enduralast. here's where I put the regulator on my '85 G/S:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/attac...1&d=1225927393

not the best picture but you can see it on the far left, the white labels are the warnings that came with the reg--I just stuck 'em on there in case I want to relocate it later. As part of the installation you have to run a cable from the mount of the reg to the negative post on your battery. This makes it a straight shot using only about 6" of wire. There's a big negative cable that runs down to the tranny there too,so you can tie your grounds together and run the same #8 wire to both, looks a bit cleaner.

One thing I wish was in the instructions: Your stator and rotor have a very very small gap between them. This is a good thing since that means there is less loss. I was really worried that they would touch after the install so I got a small piece of notebook paper and put it in between the two, then slid it all the way around the rotor making sure there was a gap. I found this trick out on this forum somewhere, thank you ADVRider!

I haven't had this on the bike long, about 5k miles. No problems so far. My charging light never comes on and, of course, it used to stay on at idle.

The stock set-up is run through the charge indicator bulb, so if that burns out you're bike won't charge. I switched to a TrailTech Vector for my speedo and dash. Using the stock charging system, I don't know if it would have worked.

Also, ditching the diode board leaves you some spare room to stash things in the top of the alternator cover:



Good for spare keys, some cash, insurance info or parts that won't be affected by heat. Make sure and get a tupperware dish that's microwaveable
I moved the horn over the right and attached it to the bracket then used two rubber rapped clamps to secure it where the horn was. I originally put it over on the right next to horn, I had the front forks off. After I was done I stood back admiring my ingenuity and then it occurred to me that the fender would hit it. Now it lives where the horn was. I just hope it's water proof. I can pics if any is intarested. Fired it up and sounds cool. Like it has a turbo!
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Old 01-29-2009, 12:28 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyB
He's the smart twin. I'm the good looking one.

No relation.


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Old 03-16-2009, 10:49 PM   #49
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Just finished an Enduralast install on my '92 GSPD.

Rings to locate and attach stator windings were very nicely finished cnc machined parts. Tapered rotor centre is also a custom machined part that appears to be finished to a very high standard. Everything else is adapted from existing Ducati alternator and regulator/rectifier. Are these Bosch pieces?

Used bgoodsoil's advice and moved a few relays to facilitate locating the rectifier/regulator unit under the tank. Hope it gets enough moving air down there. The heat sink fins are facing down toward the airbox, there should be good airflow. Fingers crossed.

Install was pretty straight forward. Though removing the original Ducati plugs from the rectifier/regulator to replace them with cheesey spade connectors and etc seemed poor form. Why not just include some female connectors to take advantage of the superior sealed Ducati pieces?

Instructions were first rate and very complete with the exception of advice on where to locate the regulator/rectifier. Instructions only delt with /5/6/7 type battery box attachment method.

Finished the installation too late in the evening in a freind's garage to test the system. Will report findings when I find them.

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Old 03-17-2009, 02:53 AM   #50
AntonLargiader
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I put an Omega on my R100R a few weeks ago. It was pretty straightforward; the only hassle is soldering the new winding into the stator housing. Rick will do that part for you for free but I was on the road and just needed to get it done. The only other slight complication was mounting my crank-fired ignition (not an Omega problem, but the stator windings have to clear the other stuff up there).

With the Omega and the stock system at least, grounding is very important. You have to be very certain the timing cover is grounded to the block. It seems natural that it would be, but it's not really true. There's a gasket in between and on certain years the cover is powdercoated. If there is powdercoat under the bolt heads you will actually not have a real electrical connection! I was losing a volt between the cover and the block until I scraped the powdercoat away. So checking the voltage between the battery+ and the timing cover (not just across the battery leads) has become part of my standard voltage test now.
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Old 03-17-2009, 09:51 AM   #51
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Quote:
If there is powdercoat under the bolt heads you will actually not have a real electrical connection!
oh I gotcha. I saw a post by StephenB saying to run a wire from the battery negative over to one of the mounting posts for the diode board. That must have something to do with that. I understand a little bit more every day.....
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Old 03-17-2009, 10:04 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgoodsoil
oh I gotcha. I saw a post by StephenB saying to run a wire from the battery negative over to one of the mounting posts for the diode board. That must have something to do with that. I understand a little bit more every day.....
Yeah, what I did, or what the factory fix was was to run 3 extra 14 or 12 gauge grounds from the diode board grounds to some of the main engine front bolts. Should be able to back them out from the timing case cover. One at a time shouldnt mess up the front seal. Trying to ensure a really solid ground. Straight to battery neg is a good idea too.
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Old 07-26-2011, 12:27 PM   #53
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Thanks for this thread , expecting my Enduralast by the wknd, and she's ready for the install....
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Old 07-29-2011, 12:50 AM   #54
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I have the Endurolast charging system on my 91gs - since fitting the system I have covered over 30000 miles now with no problems at all. The install is very easy and I would say fault checking (not that I have had any faults) would be easier than the standard system. Its good that you can completely seperate the charge system from the main harness if you want to with a little bit extra work. I also fitted the Endurolast electronic ignition system (switchable between 2/4 plugs set ups - I run 4 plugs) It has been superb, Firstly its completely seperate from the original system (the original system can be left in place as a fall back if you want) Its crank driven so very accurate at the point of timing, the advance curve is far superior to anything you can do with the original system, much smoother power delivery more so low down, better torque etc. simply excellent. so far done about 12000 miles on this no faults.I did however have a faulty black box( the internal switches had been overfilled with resin and wher in operable to change the set up from 2 to 4 plug) when I recieved the item a new one was sent out to me within 24 hours - the old one returned to the builder (in Germany) who could find no fault inthe switches - however endurolast stood by my claim and no charge. I have found dealing with endurolast a very positive experience both in quickness of responce to enquiries or claims, their products excellent, and customer service second to none. I am fitting the endurolast sytem (charging and ignition) into my HPN project build as it has been such a superior system to the old diode board and rotor.
By the way when I had my bike dyno checked the operator found the ignition timing to have been better than any he had experienced on any airhead with the advance curve being perfect for the engine set up.
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Old 07-29-2011, 07:19 PM   #55
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I have found dealing with endurolast a very positive experience both in quickness of responce to enquiries or claims, their products excellent, and customer service second to none.
+1

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Old 08-01-2011, 09:01 PM   #56
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Just finished my Duralast install, fairly easy with exception to mounting the rectifier on later model bikes- still haven't figured out where to mount it permanent but for now it's rigged to the area behind the battery but it's not well there. Battery box is different than on the instructions.

She started right up and I couldn't hear any difference in sound even with the front cover open and watching the rotor spin inside it's new home. I also couldn't see any rubbing. I could only run it for around 15 mins and didn't ride it (there are many projects going on besides charging).

One thing I could see is that GEN light now stays on the all the time. I'd also like to change the EZ connects to something better but I'm no solder wiz.

I really haven't trouble shot anything yet or gone through it with final zipties etc.
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Old 08-02-2011, 12:47 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zodiac View Post
She started right up and I couldn't hear any difference in sound even with the front cover open and watching the rotor spin inside it's new home.
Mine has a definite whir.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zodiac View Post
One thing I could see is that GEN light now stays on the all the time.
If the gen light stays on all the time you've got a wiring issue. Mine acts just like stock. Have you put a multimeter on it to check that it is charging properly?
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Old 08-02-2011, 03:45 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zodiac View Post
Just finished my Duralast install, fairly easy with exception to mounting the rectifier on later model bikes- still haven't figured out where to mount it permanent but for now it's rigged to the area behind the battery but it's not well there. Battery box is different than on the instructions.

Here's where I placed mine on my 92 GSPD.

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Old 08-02-2011, 05:03 AM   #59
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Mine has a definite whir.

If the gen light stays on all the time you've got a wiring issue. Mine acts just like stock. Have you put a multimeter on it to check that it is charging properly?


That's odd, checked all the wires and they're all as per instructions. I thought I heard someone say the GEN light now always stays on when they were talking about install....(?)
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Old 08-02-2011, 12:53 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by Zodiac View Post
That's odd, checked all the wires and they're all as per instructions. I thought I heard someone say the GEN light now always stays on when they were talking about install....(?)
Nope. Definitely an issue there
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