ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Orange Crush
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-21-2007, 11:19 AM   #16
Gluaisrothaí OP
Feckin' gobshite
 
Gluaisrothaí's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Alameda, CA
Oddometer: 547
Just give it up...

I have tried lapping the crank and flywheel, but it's not looking too much better than before. I'm thinking about calling CC Rider and sending it to Scuderia West. I had it serviced there just before the mess (like 80 miles). Not implying any fault on their part. Any takers on what a crankshaft replacement might cost?

It's a beautiful day in SF, all my mates are out riding, I'm thoroughly pissed off.
Gluaisrothaí is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2007, 11:24 AM   #17
cpmodem
Orange Caveman
 
cpmodem's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Location: masa yee yah tee 59° 14' 9" N / 135° 26' 42" W
Oddometer: 7,103
Quote:
Originally Posted by klevins
I have tried lapping the crank and flywheel, but it's not looking too much better than before. I'm thinking about calling CC Rider and sending it to Scuderia West. I had it serviced there just before the mess (like 80 miles). Not implying any fault on their part. Any takers on what a crankshaft replacement might cost?

It's a beautiful day in SF, all my mates are out riding, I'm thoroughly pissed off.
~$1100 for parts plus ~10 hours labor. You may as well install new pistons while your in there.
Hey, an afterthought, butt how 'bout installing a 990 crank (for 980CC)? A little added stroke could make a wheelie machine
Add the 990 pistons and you'll have the first carburetted 990 on your block.
__________________

-cp

DISCLAIMER: All observations made in this post are mine and based solely on my own anecdotal experiences, and may contain large doses of facetiousness. YMMV, of course. You are "on your own", and I take no responsibility if someone tries anything in this post and gets into trouble with the law, damages their person or property, or goes blind. Take everything you read or hear "anywhere" butt especially on the Web with a large dose of salt.


cpmodem screwed with this post 10-21-2007 at 02:46 PM
cpmodem is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2007, 11:27 AM   #18
hb7
moto-science
 
hb7's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Lost, Still Lost......in Lost Angeles
Oddometer: 295
Slap the JB weld on the shaft, reassemble, torque to spec, locktite on the bolt.....at least try it. I wouldn't even bother filing/sanding/ shaping, just let the JB weld fill the voids. You have nothing to lose now but much more to gain...

hb7 screwed with this post 10-21-2007 at 11:33 AM
hb7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2007, 11:31 AM   #19
Gluaisrothaí OP
Feckin' gobshite
 
Gluaisrothaí's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Alameda, CA
Oddometer: 547
Would they provide a warranty?

I'm thinking I'll basically have a new bike with run-in requirements. I agree with fitting new pistons or at least rings plus cylinder honing while it's apart. Anything else that should be taken care of?

Would SW provide a x-mile/year warranty on the work?

990 crank- nice idea!
Gluaisrothaí is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2007, 02:35 PM   #20
Gluaisrothaí OP
Feckin' gobshite
 
Gluaisrothaí's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Alameda, CA
Oddometer: 547
I couldn't in good conscience.

But possibly the PO did. Unlikely though as he owned it mostly during the warranty period.
Gluaisrothaí is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2007, 04:27 PM   #21
Gluaisrothaí OP
Feckin' gobshite
 
Gluaisrothaí's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Alameda, CA
Oddometer: 547
It's done.....

Thanks for the advice, fellers; it's done for better or worse. I'll leave the epoxy to set overnight (JB Weld brand) and update the thread tomorrow.


I have ordered the engine locking bolt but haven't received it yet. I had to put the bike in sixth to torque the bolt to 110 ft.lbs/150 Nm. The back brake would not hold.....I jammed the rear sprocket with a wrench against the swingarm. Hopefully haven't done more damage now to gears etc. 150 Nm is a lot with one arm at an awkward angle...

I had planned to take the bike to Baja on 11/10 but now I'm not so sure; maybe if I clock a few hundred miles between now and then I'll be confident. I'm going with a partner anyway, and we'll have a truck in San Diego as back up if things go pear shaped.

CMwoodys; I'm betting that the crank could be welded and reground if removed from the bike. But time and space are not with me; I live in an apartment building and can't really go to deep into the engine without my neighbours thinking I'm total trash (taking the genny cover off is where I draw the line). So I would have to have it done at a dealer; if I'm spending the 10+ hours of labour, I'd probably spring for the upgraded crank with the woodruff key slot (mine has none) and new pistons, rings etc.
Gluaisrothaí is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2007, 05:27 PM   #22
dlrides
1:1.618
 
dlrides's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Newton NC
Oddometer: 4,996
Weld the flywheel to the crank. You have nothing to lose ! Both are ruined anyway. This could last forever, or at least until a rebuild would be required.
dlrides is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2007, 05:35 PM   #23
hb7
moto-science
 
hb7's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Lost, Still Lost......in Lost Angeles
Oddometer: 295
You did clean all the surfaces of all oil... right ?

NB: You need an electric impact hammer.....for easy disassembly and re-assy. Cheap and essential for DIY.

Anybody who fixes their own bike automatically get my salute....versus silly pompous neighbors who have to bend over every time at the repair shops.

hb7 screwed with this post 10-21-2007 at 05:52 PM
hb7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2007, 07:08 PM   #24
Gluaisrothaí OP
Feckin' gobshite
 
Gluaisrothaí's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Alameda, CA
Oddometer: 547
MC Hammer

I would like an electric impact hammer.....must have a look on eBay for something like that. I bought a cheapo torque wrench at Kragen but it's certified to +/- 4% accuracy. I adjusted upwards by 4% to be sure I hit the minimum torque value. My process validation side speaking...



I used brake cleaner to rid all surfaces of oil before applying the epoxy so should be ok there. I also used Loctite 648, generously on the retaining bolt (although not quite to the distal end of the bolt to avoid getting goop in the oil) having degreased bolt and crank threads first.

All i can do now is keep my fingers crossed.
Gluaisrothaí is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2007, 07:28 PM   #25
hb7
moto-science
 
hb7's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Lost, Still Lost......in Lost Angeles
Oddometer: 295
I don't worry about torque values particularly....since I learned this on the MZOG list:

> I did a study on this for work years ago. The conclusion was that the
> ten's of thousands they spent on a computer based system was well
> spent if they controlled the assembly and followed the instructions.
> The various spring wrenches dotted about the factory, even calibrated
> weekly were about as accurate as the system used in the prototype
> shop. This consisted of the markings T, BT, FT and BFT next to each
> fastener marked on the drawing. T was tight, BT very tight, FT really
> very tight, and BFT extremely tight (or words to that effect!).

150 Nm is BFT.

Tight plus a ~half turn more or less depending on how it feels....
Successful wrenching in less than ideal conditions is an art.
hb7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2007, 09:01 PM   #26
Gluaisrothaí OP
Feckin' gobshite
 
Gluaisrothaí's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Alameda, CA
Oddometer: 547
Knuckles as a torque gauge....

Indicate desired torque by number of whitening knuckles on wrench hand. One white knuckle = ~ 15 ft lb, 2 = 30 and so on. Remember to recalibrate for cold days when knuckles whiten more easily.

Humour aside, in my youth I trained as an A&P mechanic on 737, DC9 and MD80. Part of the basic training was learning to estimate torque values accurately and repeatably- not as a replacement for a torque wrench, but just to be able to determine when something was amiss.
Gluaisrothaí is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2007, 08:43 AM   #27
xx851z
Varaderoist
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Finland
Oddometer: 15
Maybe i'm bit late, but i'm wondering are there any possibilities for machining slot for woodruff key in flywheel and crankshaft.


Ari
xx851z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2007, 08:49 AM   #28
cpmodem
Orange Caveman
 
cpmodem's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Location: masa yee yah tee 59° 14' 9" N / 135° 26' 42" W
Oddometer: 7,103
Wink 950cc + 2.5mm stroke = 980cc

Quote:
Originally Posted by xx851z
Maybe i'm bit late, but i'm wondering are there any possibilities for machining slot for woodruff key in flywheel and crankshaft.


Ari
Yes it is quite possible. Any well equiped machine shop could do it. The crank would have to be out of the bike though. I"m still for installing the 990 crank
__________________

-cp

DISCLAIMER: All observations made in this post are mine and based solely on my own anecdotal experiences, and may contain large doses of facetiousness. YMMV, of course. You are "on your own", and I take no responsibility if someone tries anything in this post and gets into trouble with the law, damages their person or property, or goes blind. Take everything you read or hear "anywhere" butt especially on the Web with a large dose of salt.

cpmodem is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2007, 08:52 AM   #29
jsrider
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Oddometer: 3,495
Quote:
Originally Posted by klevins
Indicate desired torque by number of whitening knuckles on wrench hand. One white knuckle = ~ 15 ft lb, 2 = 30 and so on. Remember to recalibrate for cold days when knuckles whiten more easily.

Humour aside, in my youth I trained as an A&P mechanic on 737, DC9 and MD80. Part of the basic training was learning to estimate torque values accurately and repeatably- not as a replacement for a torque wrench, but just to be able to determine when something was amiss.
Speaking of which, how does one get one's torque wrench calibrated?
jsrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2007, 09:10 AM   #30
cpmodem
Orange Caveman
 
cpmodem's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Location: masa yee yah tee 59° 14' 9" N / 135° 26' 42" W
Oddometer: 7,103
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsrider
Speaking of which, how does one get one's torque wrench calibrated?
The easiest (and cheepest) way was to take it over to the airport shops and have them do it. Butt, since I'm retired, I have to catch the Snap-on guy.
__________________

-cp

DISCLAIMER: All observations made in this post are mine and based solely on my own anecdotal experiences, and may contain large doses of facetiousness. YMMV, of course. You are "on your own", and I take no responsibility if someone tries anything in this post and gets into trouble with the law, damages their person or property, or goes blind. Take everything you read or hear "anywhere" butt especially on the Web with a large dose of salt.


cpmodem screwed with this post 10-27-2007 at 07:33 PM
cpmodem is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 04:02 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014