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Old 10-22-2007, 09:15 PM   #31
Gluaisrothaí OP
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Alameda, CA
Oddometer: 547
Epilogue

After waiting 24 hours for the JB to harden I fired the beast up.

And it runs fine. I let it idle for 10 minutes to get some heat in the epoxy, then shut her down for an hour, then out for a quick ride. Everything seems ok, but I don't have a great deal of confidence in the longevity of the fix. Of course the worst that can happen is that the starter fails again and the crank gets a little more scored.

I'm wondering now....is there a way to cut a keyway in the crank without taking it off the bike? In which case a new flywheel, or cutting one in the old wheel might be a better permanent solution. Perhaps mounting the wheel, drilling a 1/16 hole parallel to the taper interface and putting a steel dowel might work? Any takers on that?

Word....
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Old 10-23-2007, 04:51 PM   #32
BigJaffa
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: East coast UK
Oddometer: 73
Hardness !

It'll probably be too hard for the drill bit, unless you can use a tungsten carbide tipped end mill bit - another remedy is metal spraying, [I used to do a bit of it in my earlier career] - its an oxy acetylene based idea, heating the surface then spraying on metal powders to build up the wear/damage on shafts etc [ there used to be a company called 'Eutectic' that made the equipment , I think they were from the US, but being out of the trade I dont know if they are still around] - if you can find an old fashoined welding shop or know somebody working in maintenance in a factory or mill etc - it will still mean stripping the motor, and regrinding the surface , but should still be cheaper than a new crank
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Old 10-23-2007, 05:03 PM   #33
sailah
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Joined: Aug 2005
Location: Turning expensive metal into scrap
Oddometer: 5,408
Sorry I am late to the party, but not really an orange crusher anymore. I had this happen on a big ass motor for my planer that was direct drive and irreplaceable. The machien shop spray welded it and then turned it down. They could easily cut a key in there for ya. Oh well, next time right?
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Old 10-23-2007, 06:34 PM   #34
cpmodem
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Joined: Nov 2004
Location: masa yee yah tee 59° 14' 9" N / 135° 26' 42" W
Oddometer: 7,103
Shusssh, we're still tryin' to get him to get a 990 crank for it
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DISCLAIMER: All observations made in this post are mine and based solely on my own anecdotal experiences, and may contain large doses of facetiousness. YMMV, of course. You are "on your own", and I take no responsibility if someone tries anything in this post and gets into trouble with the law, damages their person or property, or goes blind. Take everything you read or hear "anywhere" butt especially on the Web with a large dose of salt.

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Old 01-21-2009, 12:52 PM   #35
Gluaisrothaí OP
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Alameda, CA
Oddometer: 547
Update...

Bike now at 22k miles, including a Baja run, and no movement from the crank yet.
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Old 01-28-2009, 04:58 PM   #36
erappaport
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Joined: Jun 2004
Location: Maine
Oddometer: 257
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpmodem
CB brings up a good point. Do you know when your bike was manufactured? The date will give a good idea as to whether the rotor was lapped in at the factory, or later by a dealer mech. The former operation will not show up on the DealerNet, but the later one "will" show up, if the dealer entered it.
Sorry to back up while you guys are having fun pulling the crank out, but is there a reliable way, based on VIN or MFG date, to tell if the rotor lapping TSB was done at the factory?
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Old 01-28-2009, 06:13 PM   #37
SDS
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Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Fyffe, Al.
Oddometer: 932
I looked through the TSB's and I don't see anything about the flywheel bolt. I did the ignition rotor bolt(s) TSB......where is the other one? I've got a silver-wheeled '04, so I'm a little concerned about this issue.

Also, if installing a 990 crank, what about the base gaskets and cylinder studs? Wouldn't you need longer studs and a thicker gasket? Where would one source them?
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Old 01-30-2009, 12:20 AM   #38
camoktm
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Joined: Mar 2006
Location: mornington peninsula
Oddometer: 498
loctite 680 will fix the bitch if it comes lose again
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Old 12-22-2013, 12:58 PM   #39
rsuncloud
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Joined: Mar 2006
Oddometer: 27
Pissed 2003/4 starter/alternator spin

It must be my turn in the barrel...
Thanks for all the input on the above subject.. I had a local Vegas home shop mechanic work on my 950 and ended up with the spin on the crankshaft after 150 miles of riding and finding half the bolts backing out or never installed or wrong size.. Thank you Jack for reminding me of BUYER BEWARE..
So now I am looking for input on replacing the bolt which holds the rotor on the taper and find in the 2004 repair manual there was supposed to be a washer someone obviously forgot to reinstall. One of the threads suggested replacing the bolt due to the chance of stretching.
My questions are:
Does anyone have pictures of disassembly and reassembly and what is the consensus on bolt stretch
Does anyone know the part number of the bolt and washer??
Peace and many thanks
Bob
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rsuncloud screwed with this post 12-22-2013 at 01:18 PM
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