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Old 10-12-2014, 09:11 AM   #1
NoiZboy OP
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Couple of easy questions - 2004 R1150GSA fuel filter replacement

I've got the tank disassembled and have just a couple of quick questions for those in the know:

1) I will replace the O-Ring gasket when I put in the new filter, but do I need to do anything like wetting the ring with gas/oil? Also, is it advisable to use any kind of gasket maker/sealant to help ensure a leak-free reassembly?

2) I'm going to replace the nuts for the mounting plate just as a preventative measure, even though it wasn't too hard to back them off with a bit of liquid wrench and some patience. There was enough fussiness and the nylon on the nuts is basically completely trashed. It seems like money well-spent for down the line/to avoid leaks from worn out nuts backing themselves off. Do people put anything on the threads to prevent galling? I assume all forms of thread lock are a big fat NO given the ease with which the studs get sheared off.

As always, thank you for your advice!
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Old 10-12-2014, 09:42 AM   #2
Beecher Snipes
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That tank cover O ring, helps let it slip into proper position if it is slippery. A very thin film of grease or even oil will let this happen. Or buy some of this to have on hand for your O ring work. If you have the cover that bolts down to studs with small nyloc nuts, be seriously cautions about not over tightening them. A pulled stud is a nightmare. Then the cover bottoms out further tightening is not needed. Check the torque spec.

http://www.amazon.com/CORNING-MOLYKO...+o+ring+grease
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Old 10-12-2014, 10:00 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beecher Snipes View Post
That tank cover O ring, helps let it slip into proper position if it is slippery. A very thin film of grease or even oil will let this happen. Or buy some of this to have on hand for your O ring work. If you have the cover that bolts down to studs with small nyloc nuts, be seriously cautions about not over tightening them. A pulled stud is a nightmare. Then the cover bottoms out further tightening is not needed. Check the torque spec.

http://www.amazon.com/CORNING-MOLYKO...+o+ring+grease
WHOA!!
Silicone grease can damage the O2 sensor.
No Silicone grease anywhere in the fuel system!
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Old 10-12-2014, 10:01 AM   #4
JimVonBaden
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I typically reuse the ring, just set it aside to dry while replacing the filter. I usually do not lube the ring either. If you order the service kit from www.beemerboneyard.com you will get a new one.

Nothing on the threads, just torque gently to 8Nm.
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Old 10-12-2014, 10:05 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoiZboy View Post
I've got the tank disassembled and have just a couple of quick questions for those in the know:

1) I will replace the O-Ring gasket when I put in the new filter, but do I need to do anything like wetting the ring with gas/oil? Also, is it advisable to use any kind of gasket maker/sealant to help ensure a leak-free reassembly?

2) I'm going to replace the nuts for the mounting plate just as a preventative measure, even though it wasn't too hard to back them off with a bit of liquid wrench and some patience. There was enough fussiness and the nylon on the nuts is basically completely trashed. It seems like money well-spent for down the line/to avoid leaks from worn out nuts backing themselves off. Do people put anything on the threads to prevent galling? I assume all forms of thread lock are a big fat NO given the ease with which the studs get sheared off.

As always, thank you for your advice!
1) install dry. Keep a new spare and exchange between the two every service.

2) New nuts are a good idea. I use never sieze on the studs and tighten (diagonally) only until the plate just bottoms - no more
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Old 10-12-2014, 10:46 AM   #6
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So glad I moved my filter out of the tank.
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Old 10-12-2014, 10:54 AM   #7
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The cover plate need only be off for 5 minutes max, so no time for the large O ring to deform.
And nothing needs to be disconnected only the fuel filter,which can be changed very simply with the just the fuel pump and housing hanging out of the tank aperture/opening.
I sit on a stool with the tank upright on a mat between my knees. You can leave up to two bars showing on the fuel guage and not spill any fuel.

When you put it all back use a blob of grease at 12,3,6 and 9 o clock on the O ring just to hold it in place in the recess around the fuel pump aperture.
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Old 10-12-2014, 10:55 AM   #8
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So glad I moved my filter out of the tank.
I moved mine back inside as it's no great hardship doing a 5 minute job every 24k miles.
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Old 10-12-2014, 11:34 AM   #9
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I moved mine back inside as it's no great hardship doing a 5 minute job every 24k miles.
You're faster at it than I am. It takes me about five minutes just to get the tank off and back on, vent hoses disconnected & reattached, fuel lines disconnected & reattached. The electrical connector is quick enough, sure.
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Old 10-12-2014, 04:00 PM   #10
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Some differing opinions here from blokes that do know their stuff, regardless i'll share mine! I always lube the o ring with petroleum jelly/grease, it allows the o ring to squirm into the recess just in case it has shrunk or swelled, this was common aircraft practise. Likewise i always lube the studs. Nineteen years of oilhead ownership and i have never fitted a new o ring or needed new nuts, despite having it apart for filters, pump replacement or new hoses. The last two bikes i fitted the filter externally, this has presented no problems for me but has afforded peace of mind.
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Old 10-12-2014, 04:11 PM   #11
NoiZboy OP
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Thanks, everyone, for the responses. As usual, very helpful all around!
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Old 10-12-2014, 04:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
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vent hoses disconnected & reattached, .
No need to disconnect the vent hoses inside the tank....
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