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Old 08-26-2014, 02:11 AM   #1
rvt OP
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r1100gs front discs - bobbin lube?

I recall reading here that some of you lubricate the bobbins in the floating front brake discs.
Just about to install new bobbins, wave washers and screws in mine. Lubricant in that area seems strange, as it could heat up and centrifuge out onto the disc surface.
No mention of lube in Clymer.
Any wisdom on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 08-26-2014, 07:59 AM   #2
JimVonBaden
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No lube.
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Old 08-26-2014, 09:33 AM   #3
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvt View Post
Just about to install new bobbins, wave washers and screws in mine. Lubricant in that area seems strange.....
Lubricant in that area could be deadly...

Years ago, I had a Volvo with brakes that squealed. They were so bad I think they squealed even when the car was parked.

The Volvo dealership sold some anti-squeal paste in a small tube to eliminate the squeal. So what do you suppose I did with this stuff? Yup...you guessed it...I applied the anti-squeal paste (a thick grease full of moly) to the wrong side of the pads, in other words, the friction surface of the pad.

Well, the brakes were no longer brakes. I had to use the parking brake (a drums style brake on the driveshaft) to stop the car. I had to have the rotors ground to remove the moly and of course, replace the pads.

Since then, I have learned not to apply anything to brakes. If they aren't working properly, repair them, replace worn parts but don't lubricate them.

How are the brake lines, If still OE, they too need replacing. The rubber OE lines can burst leaving you with seriously impaired stopping power, just about the time that Wallaby crosses the road.
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def screwed with this post 08-26-2014 at 09:39 AM
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:21 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by def View Post
Lubricant in that area could be deadly...

Years ago, I had a Volvo with brakes that squealed. They were so bad I think they squealed even when the car was parked.

The Volvo dealership sold some anti-squeal paste in a small tube to eliminate the squeal. So what do you suppose I did with this stuff? Yup...you guessed it...I applied the anti-squeal paste (a thick grease full of moly) to the wrong side of the pads, in other words, the friction surface of the pad.

Well, the brakes were no longer brakes. I had to use the parking brake (a drums style brake on the driveshaft) to stop the car. I had to have the rotors ground to remove the moly and of course, replace the pads.

Since then, I have learned not to apply anything to brakes. If they aren't working properly, repair them, replace worn parts but don't lubricate them.

How are the brake lines, If still OE, they too need replacing. The rubber OE lines can burst leaving you with seriously impaired stopping power, just about the time that Wallaby crosses the road.
In high school we greased the right front brake shoes of the auto shop teachers car. It was hilarious watching him pull out of the parking lot. Actually he made it over to the shop and got his car on the lift and fixed it. We cleaned the shop for the rest of the week. But I still remember the look on his face when he touched the brake and the car pulled hard to the left.
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:44 AM   #5
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You can lube them with graphite powder or ptfe dry spray if you must.

I use a piece of tapered dowel rod to check the bobbins are free to rotate each time I clean the bike.
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Old 08-26-2014, 03:00 PM   #6
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No lube sounds good. Thanks, that is pretty much what I thought but wanted to check.

Quote:
Originally Posted by def View Post
How are the brake lines, If still OE, they too need replacing. The rubber OE lines can burst leaving you with seriously impaired stopping power, just about the time that Wallaby crosses the road.
Yep, replaced with Spiegler lines.
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Old 08-26-2014, 07:11 PM   #7
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kev,

I would warn against using any slippery spray stuff around brakes. Too risky and not needed.
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Old 08-26-2014, 10:43 PM   #8
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Hmmm, very timely thread for me. So I discovered today that my front right rotor is 'loose'. That is to say when you grab it with your hand and wiggle it there is distinct 'play'. I removed the mounting bolts and rotated the bobbins 1/4 which had distinct flat spots. I can still feel distinct play. My bike has 97K miles and gets ridden hard. Time for nre rotors and bobbins? Neither have been replaced since new. No calipers to measure exact thickness of the rotors, but does 97K sounds like they are about done? The left rotor also has some play, but rotating the bobbins alomst eliminated it.

Thanks for any advice
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Old Yesterday, 03:40 AM   #9
rvt OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s1marks View Post
Hmmm, very timely thread for me. So I discovered today that my front right rotor is 'loose'. That is to say when you grab it with your hand and wiggle it there is distinct 'play'. I removed the mounting bolts and rotated the bobbins 1/4 which had distinct flat spots. I can still feel distinct play. My bike has 97K miles and gets ridden hard. Time for nre rotors and bobbins? Neither have been replaced since new. No calipers to measure exact thickness of the rotors, but does 97K sounds like they are about done? The left rotor also has some play, but rotating the bobbins alomst eliminated it.

Thanks for any advice
S1
Depends how much the brakes were used, but quite possible that they are due.
Minimum thickness for mine is 4.5mm.
When you see the price of discs, a micrometer will look cheap.
Vernier calipers no good, won't get past ridge where the disc isn't worn.
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Old Yesterday, 06:14 AM   #10
mouthfulloflake
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Ive got the same issue, mine rattle

Ive been wrapping the bobbins in teflon tape it holds them still for maybe 1000 miles.

Ive replaced bobbbins and washers, I guess its time for expensive rotors.

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Old Yesterday, 07:01 AM   #11
H96669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvt View Post
Depends how much the brakes were used, but quite possible that they are due.
Minimum thickness for mine is 4.5mm.
When you see the price of discs, a micrometer will look cheap.
Vernier calipers no good, won't get past ridge where the disc isn't worn.
Yep calipers but for other reason, they give you a measurement on the length of the jaws (1") so not very good at identifying high or low spots. The rotors don't always wear evenly across the surface.

Cheap instead of a micrometer and a lot faster to use are digital thickness gauges, I think I paid $10.00 for mine.

Eh eh....on sale:
http://www.harborfreight.com/digital...uge-66319.html
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