What Is The Best Procedure For Changing Coolant In Ktm 640 Adv?

[DBGcooper]

Got a new 07 640 Adventure, and checked the coolant and found it to be good to only -10F, and it gets way colder up here. Unlike my KLR which has a drain screw at the lowest point under the water pump, I can find no such drain on this bike. I figured on pulling the lowest hose connetion on the front of the jug, but decided to throw this out in case there is a better way. Any help will be greatly appreciated. DBG

[Odysseus]

Originally Posted by DBGcooper

Got a new 07 640 Adventure, and checked the coolant and found it to be good to only -10F, and it gets way colder up here. Unlike my KLR which has a drain screw at the lowest point under the water pump, I can find no such drain on this bike. I figured on pulling the lowest hose connetion on the front of the jug, but decided to throw this out in case there is a better way. Any help will be greatly appreciated. DBG

you guessed it the first time. Just remove the radiator cap and then pull the lowest coolant hose connection. The whole procedure is fairly painless. good luck!

[Adrian 8]

I don't know about the 640 but my 450 KTM has a air bleed screw on the head near the sparkplug to drain the air out after you start filling it, plus there is an air bleed screw on the right radiator right up on top.

[meat popsicle]

Originally Posted by Adrian 8

I don't know about the 640 but my 450 KTM has a air bleed screw on the head near the sparkplug to drain the air out after you start filling it, plus there is an air bleed screw on the right radiator right up on top.

I just changed my coolant; I ended up disconnecting a bunch of hoses and found that if I tipped the bike over (as far as I could) to one side and the other more would come out. Not sure why... maybe it helps drain the entire cooling system?

When you refill it the manual says on page 36 for the 2003 model year to run the bike with the cap off for a bit to top off but you will have to check the coolant level spec (10mm above the radiator internals inside the cap) when engine is COLD. Here is a copy and paste:

Originally Posted by 03 LC4a owner's manual

Cooling system
Coolant is circulated by a water pump located in the engine. When the engine is cold the cooling liquid circulates only through the cylinder and the cylinder head. After the engine has reached its operating temperature (about 70°C, 158°F), the thermostat opens and the cooling liquid is also pumped through both aluminum radiators.

Air blowing in through the radiators cools the cooling liquid. The slower the speed of the motorcycle, the less the cooling liquid is cooled down. Dirty radiator fins also reduce the cooling efficiency.

If little or no air blows through the radiators, for example when riding through slow traffic or waiting at traffic lights, the coolant temperature will rise. If the coolant temperature rises to 85° C (185°F), the fan 1 on the left radiator will switch on. This fan will provide additional air circulation through the radiator thereby preventing the cooling system from overheating.

! CAUTION !
The red cooling liquid temperature warning light 2 will begin to light up, if the cooling liquid temperature reaches approx. 110°C and henceforth has exceeded its normal operating temperature.

Possible causes:

– riding slowly with a large load at a higher air temperature: If possible increase your running speed, so that more air can blow through the radiators. Should the warning light still be on off after 300 meters, stop immediately, switch off the engine and look for other possible causes.

– Too little cooling liquid in the system:
Let the engine cool down, and check the system for leakage’s. Also examine the cooling liquid level CAUTION SCALDING HAZARD! Do not drive on, until there is sufficient liquid in the cooling system. Go to your nearest KTM garage and get it seen to. If you drive with the cooling liquid temperature warning light on, you will cause even more damages to the engine.

– The cooling fan on the left cooler is not working:
The cooling fan must be running, when the cooling liquid temperature is 110°C and the ignition is on. If the fan is not working, and there appears to be sufficient cooling liquid, the only thing you can do is to drive on to your nearest KTM garage at the least possible engine load.


WARNING

IF POSSIBLE, ALWAYS CHECK LEVEL OF COOLING LIQUID WHEN ENGINE IS COLD. IF YOU HAVE TO OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN ENGINE IS HOT, USE RAG TO COVER THE CAP AND OPEN SLOWLY TO RELEASE PRESSURE.

A mixture of 60% antifreezer and 40% water is used as cooling liquid. How-ever, the anti-freeze protection must be at least -25° C (-13° F). Aside from antifreezing protection, this mixture also provides great corrosion protection which is why it must not be replaced by pure water.

! CAUTION !
FOR THE COOLING SYSTEM, USE ONLY HIGH-GRADE ANTIFREEZER (MOTOREX ANTI-FREEZE). USING LOWERGRADE ANTIFREEZE AGENTS, CAN CAUSE CORROSION AND COOLANT FOAMING.

Pressure induced by heating of the cooling liquid in the cooling system is
controlled by a valve in the radiator cap 3; a water temperature rising up to
120° C (248° F) is admissible, without fear of problems.

Checking the cooling liquid level
The cooling liquid should be 10 mm (0,4 in) above the cooling elements when the engine is cold (cf. diagram). In the event of the cooling liquid being drained, always fill the system before hand, then top off while the engine is running.


WARNING

IF POSSIBLE, ALWAYS CHECK LEVEL OF COOLING LIQUID WHEN ENGINE IS COLD. IF YOU HAVE TO OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN ENGINE IS HOT, USE A RAG TO COVER THE CAP AND OPEN SLOWLY TO RELEASE PRESSURE.

[Odysseus]

Originally Posted by meat popsicle

I just changed my coolant; I ended up disconnecting a bunch of hoses and found that if I tipped the bike over (as far as I could) to one side and the other more would come out. Not sure why... maybe it helps drain the entire cooling system?

When you refill it the manual says on page 36 for the 2003 model year to run the bike with the cap off for a bit to top off but you will have to check the coolant level spec (10mm above the radiator internals inside the cap) when engine is COLD. Here is a copy and paste:

Hey meat! Thanks for adding your knowledge to this here thread.

Also thanks alot for pissing off gaspipe and chasing him away.

Jeez, all the LC4 gurus are dropping like flies, creeper doesn't even have one anymore, gaspipe is gone, loaded barely hangs out here anymore. Maybe when the new 690 Baja and Rally (or whatever they are going to call them) come out we'll have a big old LC4 revival.

[meat popsicle]

Originally Posted by Odysseus

Hey meat! Thanks for adding your knowledge to this here thread.

Also thanks alot for pissing off gaspipe and chasing him away.

Jeez, all the LC4 gurus are dropping like flies, creeper doesn't even have one anymore, gaspipe is gone, loaded barely hangs out here anymore. Maybe when the new 690 Baja and Rally (or whatever they are going to call them) come out we'll have a big old LC4 revival.

Hey Ody,

I pissed off gassy? What, where, when, why, how? Link?

Well, it is the end of the model line so we should have this ole'LC4 business buttoned up soon. The new ones have silly pipes; I don't know...

[Odysseus]

Originally Posted by meat popsicle

Hey Ody,

I pissed off gassy? What, where, when, why, how? Link?

Well, it is the end of the model line so we should have this ole'LC4 business buttoned up soon. The new ones have silly pipes; I don't know...

I was just kidding about you being the guy who pissed him off. I thought you already knew about it.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=279201



As far as the new 690 hotness goes, me thinks I will hang on to the 640.

Of course if they do start selling that bike they raced in the Baja 500, I will buy one immediately.

[rob748]

just wait for the water pump to fail and then refill ( after fixing the pump )

[meat popsicle]

Originally Posted by Odysseus

I was just kidding about you being the guy who pissed him off. I thought you already knew about it.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=279201



As far as the new 690 hotness goes, me thinks I will hang on to the 640.

Of course if they do start selling that bike they raced in the Baja 500, I will buy one immediately.

Oh, I didn't know; thanks for the link. I had my chance to ride with him when I was temporarily in TN, but then he got busy and we passed like two ships in the night... no that's not it.

Ah, the Baja KTM is sexy, but it wears its upswept pipes much better than these production 690 IMhO.

[ChrisC]

Originally Posted by Odysseus

Jeez, all the LC4 gurus are dropping like flies

Well, not all of the original "LC4 Mafiosi" have departed... we've just gotten older and slower (save Hickson and his new Sherco addiction)...

[creeper]

Originally Posted by ChrisC

Well, not all of the original "LC4 Mafiosi" have departed... we've just gotten older and slower (save Hickson and his new Sherco addiction)...

Mmmmmmm... Sherco.

[ChrisC]

Originally Posted by creeper

Mmmmmmm... Sherco.

Hey, ya ol' furt.... how's things?

Had the Sherco "across the bridge" yet?

[creeper]

Originally Posted by ChrisC

Hey, ya ol' furt.... how's things?

Had the Sherco "across the bridge" yet?

Don't live in that part of Wooooshington any more... I'm further south than I was. Temps are freezing at night, so I'm sure some lucky bastard will get spit on their head going across it.

My arms are so screw'd up that I haven't ridden the Sherco much. Boo fuckin' hoo huh?

I've got less than 10 hours on it... but hey, I did write a Sherco valve lash guide.

Hi ho, hi ho...

[meat popsicle]

Originally Posted by creeper

... but hey, I did write a Sherco valve lash guide.

Hi ho, hi ho...

Pretty site. But I didn't see where to sign up for countless hours of bullshittin'

[rebelpacket]

I drained the coolant on my 625 the other day.

I must say, for a company famous for making not only fantastic bikes, but well-thought-out fantastic bikes, they really screwed the pooch on this one. I made a god-awful mess all over the bike, and had to tip it at ridiculous angles to try and get it all out. Even then, I'm not sure I did.

What a crappy design. Compared to the RFS motors, its a big step backwards!