Bandit 1250

[Ohio_Danimal]

Originally Posted by Ohio_Danimal

Hey Bandito's

I'm looking for a pair of bandit 1250 mirrors.
They are identical to the mirrors on my SV650, except about aninch longer stalks.
I thought that this would be a good place to ask.
Top dollar paid!

sorry to interrupt the thread

self-promoting bumpola

[ag_streak]

Originally Posted by gashog

The Versys had decent power, but this engine feels like a jet turbine when you open it up.

If you really want to feel a rush, install a Dale Walker Holeshot slip-on, high-flow air filter and a TPI box from Holeshot performance.

WOW!

Simple, and that's only like a "stage 1" change. I heard there's more fun to be found.

[Tango59]

Originally Posted by RoyQ

I am the guy who first had COX make the radiator guard. Andrew was very supportive and took the time to take the initial measurements at a local dealer way back in '07. Mine never caused any over heating and stopped 3 large rocks from busting the radiator.

The frame on my Cox radiator guard broke (only bug hits) after about 10k mile on the frame of the guard. Soldering didn't work but the superglue seems to be working.

[treybrad]

Originally Posted by Tango59

The frame on my Cox radiator guard broke (only bug hits) after about 10k mile on the frame of the guard. Soldering didn't work but the superglue seems to be working.

Just as a counterpoint, I've got somewhere around 45k miles on my guard it it's help up admirably. Quite a few dents and dings, but better on the guard than on my radiator. I wouldn't be surprised if you contacted Cox and they fix it or replace it for you...

trey

[eakins]

as most of you know the stock Bandit bars (600/1200/1250) are less than ideal in many ways.
the are too narrow for most and have way too much pullback, which causes your wrist to bend at an angle and cause pain after a short bit.

i contacted Dale http://www.holeshot.com/ about his strom touring bars and asked about some specs. specifically pullback as far as wrist comfort. we decided he would send me an un-coated bar to try and measure.
i'm here to report they are amazing.
they create a position similar to modern sport touring bikes. up right, comfortable with a slight forward lean.

the old bars measure (per someone measuring)
Width = 27 (to end of bar, not bar end)
Rise = 3"
Pull back = 6"

holeshot bars
width 30"
rise 6+"
pullback 3.5" (ideal IMO)

you get less pullback (which is ideal for wrist comfort) and a wider bar (subjective per rider but much better than narrow stock), thus the position (using numbers only) puts the bar farther away from you...BUT you make that up, plus some some, with the additional rise. these bars put you in that comfortable sitting up sport tour position. if you need more you can still add riser or even up and back riser as usual. compared to stock it's night and day better. dale also uses the highest grade thickwall steel for these bars not cheap chinese steel. these are taller, more comfortable and ALOT stronger than the bikemaster daytona bars.

i'm testing this set only and will exchange for powdercoated ones. as Dale does everything top shelf i suspect the powder coat will be dialed in too. to get these working i used a spare oem 1200 long brake line and swapped out (16.5 ftlbs onn the banjo bolts) my too short top run line, that runs from the brake to the lower tripple clamp T block (600S setup). dale said a 1200 needed 3" more line but this worked for me in a pinch and 1 wrapped the line around the fork (between the 2 tripple clamps) to take up the excess line i had to work with.

i unclipped the electrical connectors (found underneath the right side fairing) from both the left and right controls and reconnected/mounted (using the frame hold wires) them after the bars where on. i loosened each upper fork leg (upper and lower pinch bolts - 16.5 ftlbs) 1 at a time, pulled then down from below (easier to do then trying to push down from the top. get a helper if need be) on the leg and passed the clutch cable & choke over top the fork leg so it rests outside of the forks.

i then did the same for the throttle cables on the right side. after reassy the control cables move just fine with zero issues sitting outside the upper fork legs vrs wrapping around the front and back through like from the factory. dale said he used 3" extended throttle cables on the bike he did, but i have found no issues with the way i have it.

i then re-glued the left grip back on and used 150 grip sand paper to make the oem ends fit back on. since Dale's bars use thicker steel tube the ID of the end tube is smaller thus you need to remove some rubber from the circumference of the inner rubber hold. stock will not fit in. i keep sanding it down till it fit a medium snug into the bar and put it together and snugged it tight. make sure the bolt closet to the end is bottomed against the bar end, bring the rubber piece down on it then put the outer gripper bolt down snug (but not expanding) on it. put it in, hold tight against the bar and snug it down.
don't forget when you take this bar end out, it only lossens up some then pulls out as a whole. don't unscrew the whole bolt and be left with the rubber piece stuck in the oem bar.

i went out for a ride and played with how far back i rotated the bars. i found my sweet spot after bringing them back and down a small bit. you can have them higher and farther or lower and closer depending on your likes. my wrists and lower back approve with 3 thumbs up. :-)

here are some pics.
thnx bill

[ag_streak]

Originally Posted by eakins

Great write-up Bill! I appreciate function over form and all that, but MAN they look, uh... strange, to put it kindly!

[Oldbutslow]

Very strange looking bars. The comfort quotient is per taste, but all the modding would shoot them down for me. For me, you need all the leverage you can get on a B1250. ,BK

[bross]

Originally Posted by Oldbutslow

Very strange looking bars. The comfort quotient is per taste, but all the modding would shoot them down for me. For me, you need all the leverage you can get on a B1250. ,BK

Don't those bars give you MORE leverage? They're 1 1/2" wider on each side.

[OldManSandman]

Originally Posted by achesley

My latest mods to my Bandit.
2" rox risers


And, New front brake lines that had to be different than installation called for due to the 2" addition. If I had to do it again, I'd just order the needed lines separate rather than a Bandit 1250S kit.

Achesley or anyone else in the know: I've got an '01 1200, and am assuming the brake lines, cables etc wouldn't be too far off that of the 1250. I'd like to go with the 3.5" Rox Risers and possibly a CR Hi Fatbar (local shop has a Wirtz one on sale for $39. - if anyone has any info on Wirtz I'd like to hear your yay or nay on their bars). You think that the electricals would handle the extra 1.5" Rox? Rox seems to jump from 2" to 3.5" without anything inbetween. I don't mind changing the brake or clutch lines, I'm not sure how much $ a new, longer throttle cable would be but changing the electrical bits put me off.

There's a thread here about a Holeshot bar prototype that seems to be getting up as high as I might like. I think though, that the risers & fatbar will be more adjustable.

Thanks for the input!

[Haroon]

The Bandit 1250 has been on my radar for a long while for potential use as a 2-up touring bike. Recently while discussing with a good friend who loves his Bandit 1250 and has used it extensively for touring, here were his comments on the very few shortcomings on this otherwise wonderful value-for-money bike:

• The front fork, a simple conventional telescopic set-up, is soft and adds to the woes of a less than rigid frame.
• The brakes are inadequate for the kind of engine power available and speeds possible. The rear brakes tend to fade rather quickly during repeated usage say during a long hill descent.
• The stock headlight is weak and precludes high-speed cruising after dark. The stock bulb needs some changes.

So specific to the Bandit 1250 owners, I would like to know what remedies or aftermarket stuff have you owners used for solving the above shortcomings and also any other recommendations of ‘tried & tested’ additions to make the bike more touring friendly.

Thanks

[ag_streak]

For what it's worth, my ex wife, about 5" 5" and 130 pounds, said my 2009 Bandit 1250 was the least comfortable of all my bikes she rode, tied for last with the first-gen Yamaha FZ1.

Her favorite was the V-Strom 1000.

Just sayin'...

That being said, I regret selling the Big Bandito, and now that she's out of the picture, I'm considering another!

Originally Posted by Haroon

The Bandit 1250 has been on my radar for a long while for potential use as a 2-up touring bike. Recently while discussing with a good friend who loves his Bandit 1250 and has used it extensively for touring, here were his comments on the very few shortcomings on this otherwise wonderful value-for-money bike:

• The front fork, a simple conventional telescopic set-up, is soft and adds to the woes of a less than rigid frame.
• The brakes are inadequate for the kind of engine power available and speeds possible. The rear brakes tend to fade rather quickly during repeated usage say during a long hill descent.
• The stock headlight is weak and precludes high-speed cruising after dark. The stock bulb needs some changes.

So specific to the Bandit 1250 owners, I would like to know what remedies or aftermarket stuff have you owners used for solving the above shortcomings and also any other recommendations of ‘tried & tested’ additions to make the bike more touring friendly.

Thanks

[Cortez]

Originally Posted by ag_streak

For what it's worth, my ex wife, about 5" 5" and 130 pounds, said my 2009 Bandit 1250 was the least comfortable of all my bikes she rode, tied for last with the first-gen Yamaha FZ1.

Her favorite was the V-Strom 1000.

Just sayin'...

That being said, I regret selling the Big Bandito, and now that she's out of the picture, I'm considering another!

What are you.. stoopid?
Oh! I get it! The bike!

[andmoon]

Originally Posted by achesley

My latest mods to my Bandit.
2" rox risers


And, New front brake lines that had to be different than installation called for due to the 2" addition. If I had to do it again, I'd just order the needed lines separate rather than a Bandit 1250S kit.

Crossover line correct? Looks long enough to be a direct 2 line from mc to individual caliper.

[Shady Rider]

Just back from a 35 day, 11,000 mile trip.

[Rider]

Originally Posted by Shady Rider

Just back from a 35 day, 11,000 mile trip.

Great stuff!!