KLR650 carb removal - any tricks?

tbirdsp · 11-11-2007, 03:26 PM

Need to pull the carb to clean the idle circuits. Did some searching and didn't find much. I have the Clymer manual. Any secret trick to remove the carb on a KLR?

2wheelsrbest · 11-11-2007, 04:33 PM

I assume you mean tricks AFTER you've taken off tank, right?

I would take off tank, unhook cables, loosen clamps at rubber boots and push carb throat into the longer of the two boots (I think it is the rearward/airabox boot). This lets you swing front to side, turn and pull completely out.

Believe I also saw post about simply rolling carb sideways and disassembling while still in the boots. Probably not a bad plan if it doesn't need super cleaning.

tubebender · 11-11-2007, 04:59 PM

Be careful with the plastic choke cable (starter plunger) holder. They break if you twist the carb and the cable is not loose. It's a PITA to remove and re-install. One trick I use is to remove the top subframe bolts and allow the subframe to tilt back. Watch [IMG]images/icons/eek.gif[/IMG] the wire harness; don't let it stretch to tight. I use a block of wood between the rear tire and the underside of the rear fender to limit the amount of tilt.

CA

tbirdsp · 11-11-2007, 06:18 PM

Thanks for the inputs. I did just turn the carb to shim the needle. Could probably get the float bowl off too, but I want to do it right and pull it for complete cleaning. I've had carb gremlins twice now.
Would like to avoid taking the subframe loose, but I can do it if needed. Used to do that with my DRZ.

Oly · 11-11-2007, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbirdsp

Thanks for the inputs. I did just turn the carb to shim the needle. Could probably get the float bowl off too, but I want to do it right and pull it for complete cleaning. I've had carb gremlins twice now.
Would like to avoid taking the subframe loose, but I can do it if needed. Used to do that with my DRZ.

I pulled mine without messing with the subframe, it can be done. A bit tricky getting the boots in place during installation but doable. As mentioned clear the choke system first.

tbirdsp · 11-15-2007, 09:03 PM

Update - got her all done today. Was able to work the carb out and in without loosening the subframe. I took the choke cable loose at the handlebar.
Not sure what was wrong, carb was very clean except for some goopy stuff in the air cutoff valve area. Jets and float bowl all looked virtually spotless. Fixed whatever was wrong though (bike wouldn't idle without choke on - seemed like plugged pilot circuit). Runs like a champ now

11-11-2007, 03:26 PM	#1
tbirdsp ^OP REMF Joined: Mar 2002 Location: Nebraska Oddometer: 8,546	KLR650 carb removal - any tricks? Need to pull the carb to clean the idle circuits. Did some searching and didn't find much. I have the Clymer manual. Any secret trick to remove the carb on a KLR? __________________ Mike S. '09 Bonneville Black AMA MSTA STOC http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/...orcycleriders/

11-11-2007, 06:18 PM	#4
tbirdsp ^OP REMF Joined: Mar 2002 Location: Nebraska Oddometer: 8,546	Thanks for the inputs. I did just turn the carb to shim the needle. Could probably get the float bowl off too, but I want to do it right and pull it for complete cleaning. I've had carb gremlins twice now. Would like to avoid taking the subframe loose, but I can do it if needed. Used to do that with my DRZ. __________________ Mike S. '09 Bonneville Black AMA MSTA STOC http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/...orcycleriders/

11-15-2007, 09:03 PM	#6
tbirdsp ^OP REMF Joined: Mar 2002 Location: Nebraska Oddometer: 8,546	Update - got her all done today. Was able to work the carb out and in without loosening the subframe. I took the choke cable loose at the handlebar. Not sure what was wrong, carb was very clean except for some goopy stuff in the air cutoff valve area. Jets and float bowl all looked virtually spotless. Fixed whatever was wrong though (bike wouldn't idle without choke on - seemed like plugged pilot circuit). Runs like a champ now __________________ Mike S. '09 Bonneville Black AMA MSTA STOC http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/...orcycleriders/

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11-11-2007, 04:33 PM	#2
2wheelsrbest Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Jun 2007 Location: NCWA Oddometer: 264	I assume you mean tricks AFTER you've taken off tank, right? I would take off tank, unhook cables, loosen clamps at rubber boots and push carb throat into the longer of the two boots (I think it is the rearward/airabox boot). This lets you swing front to side, turn and pull completely out. Believe I also saw post about simply rolling carb sideways and disassembling while still in the boots. Probably not a bad plan if it doesn't need super cleaning.

11-11-2007, 04:59 PM	#3
tubebender Just a Rider Joined: Feb 2007 Location: O-side Oddometer: 51	Be careful with the plastic choke cable (starter plunger) holder. They break if you twist the carb and the cable is not loose. It's a PITA to remove and re-install. One trick I use is to remove the top subframe bolts and allow the subframe to tilt back. Watch [IMG]images/icons/eek.gif[/IMG] the wire harness; don't let it stretch to tight. I use a block of wood between the rear tire and the underside of the rear fender to limit the amount of tilt. CA