Baja Pemex and Road Report

Pelon · 11-17-2007, 04:28 PM

Just got back from a week in Baja. No shortages of gas from Tijuana to El Rosario (per usual). The pump at the Pinta in Catavina is NOT operating. However, gas was being sold from the barell. More barells at Bahia de Los Angeles. The next open pump is at Villa Jesus Maria, which is about 30 miles north of Guerrero Negro. I believe that makes it a 194 mile stretch between El Rosario and the next pump. The barell gas is fine . . . and they are open late. I came through Catavina at 7 p.m., and they were still selling it.

The pumps are open in Guerrero Negro (red and green), Vizcaino (green only), San Ignacio (green only), Santa Rosalia (red and green), Mulege (green only), Loreto (red and green), Ciudad Insurgentes (did not note if they had both red and green), Ciudad Constitucion (red and green), El Centenario (don't know if they had both), La Paz (red and green), Los Barriles (red and green).

San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas obviously both had red and green. Todos Santos was only green, I believe, but I may have misnoted that one. (I have a question mark in my notebook and I do not know why.)

ALL of the detours from the hurricane seem to have been ironed out. There are still a couple of stretches (one near Mulege, and one between El Cien and Le Centenario) where the roads got quite rough, but there are no longer any details onto temporary bridges.

Downtown La Paz has some construction going on, and the 19 is an absolute mess for about 10 km out of Cabo. It is hard pack dirt, with large stones, dust, gravel, and trucks. One lane alternating at times, too. Still, the 19 is a much better bet at night from Cabo to La Paz than the 1, which is a bitch to ride even in the day, imho.

Military checkpoints going south were 30 second affairs. Going north, there were extensive delays. However, they were letting bikes through without much hassle.

Random Notes:

North and south on the 1 just north of Guerrero Negro was a pain in the ass too, but only on my return trip. THey were doing some sort of road resurfacing, and it was a good 20 minute delay.

Watch for the loose goats on the road south of Mulege, and the buzzards to the west of Insurgentes.

Watch for cattle everywhere. The big ones seem to know what they are doing (more or less), but the calves can dart out into the road without warning.

On the way south, the Vados north of Catavina were filled with sand and rubble, but that was from the rainstorm on Sunday night / Monday morning. By Friday, they were clear.

Watch the shoulders on the 19 from Todos Santos all the way to San Pedro. Very fine silt. Have to exit the road carefully and weight the rear wheel.

Unmarked tope (both directions) just north of San Quintin . . . it's got me twice in one year, and the second time I was actually looking for it.

The 1 from Catavina all the way to El Rosario is a TOTAL bitch at night. Not recommended. Same for Colonet to Santo Tomas.

Finally . . . the weather right now is OUTSTANDING. Never hot. Never cold except for the return trip north after dark from Catavina to the border.

Be safe, and I hope this info helps.

Pelon

The Fist · 11-17-2007, 05:20 PM

Great thread...Thanks!!

I also wanted to mention that there wasn't any gas in Puertocitos -- wasn't a big deal for me, but thought I'd mention it here.

I'll be in Mulege tomorrow!

Pelon · 11-17-2007, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Fist

Great thread...Thanks!!

I also wanted to mention that there wasn't any gas in Puertocitos -- wasn't a big deal for me, but thought I'd mention it here.

I'll be in Mulege tomorrow!

There is a GREAT restaurant one block north of the Pemex and the road that runs parallel. It is on the second floor, and probably the only second floor restaurant in that part of town.

Check out the Orchard for a place to stay. I have heard good things about it.

There are two or three very good beaches just south of town. One of them is a little sand spit that had a couple of fifth wheels parked on it yesterday.

There is also a very nice little restaurant in Santa Rosalia on the hill just to the south of town. It is in a peach colored building, and it has corona signs on it. Very good food, and stunning views. Did not write down the name.

If you intend to go further south, make sure you fill up in Loreto. It is a long way to Insurgentes.

Cheers, and be safe.

Pelon

Lone Rider · 11-17-2007, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Fist

Great thread...Thanks!!

I also wanted to mention that there wasn't any gas in Puertocitos -- wasn't a big deal for me, but thought I'd mention it here.

I'll be in Mulege tomorrow!

Hotel Hacienda on the square. $20.

Lone Rider · 11-17-2007, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pelon

There is a GREAT restaurant one block north of the Pemex and the road that runs parallel. It is on the second floor, and probably the only second floor restaurant in that part of town. .....

Los Equipales

The Fist · 11-18-2007, 04:39 PM

In Mulege tonight....Magna only.

Is it just me or is Mulege, forgive me for saying, is a bit disappointing....

I'm looking for a place to chill for a few days, and Mulege is not it....Loreto maybe?

Lone Rider · 11-18-2007, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Fist

In Mulege tonight....Magna only.

Is it just me or is Mulege, forgive me for saying, is a bit disappointing....

I'm looking for a place to chill for a few days, and Mulege is not it....Loreto maybe?

Is Pelican Reef, the gringo bar, in the front of the Hacienda, on the square, open? Good food. Canadian owner, WI wife...nice people.

Go to the lighthouse, kinda steep, but great views.

The Fist · 11-19-2007, 07:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lone Rider

Is Pelican Reef, the gringo bar, in the front of the Hacienda, on the square, open? Good food. Canadian owner, WI wife...nice people.

Go to the lighthouse, kinda steep, but great views.

Yeah, Pelican Reef is open -- I actually steered clear of it -- too many loud gringos watching football...

The Lighthouse, eh? I'll check it out -- Im only going to Loreto today so I'm gonna screw around here and scope out the sights before heading further south.

The Fist · 11-19-2007, 03:46 PM

couldnt find the lighthouse...but checked out the mission....

the beaches south of mulege along the bay are incredible....absolutely amazing.

Pelon · 11-19-2007, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Fist

couldnt find the lighthouse...but checked out the mission....

the beaches south of mulege along the bay are incredible....absolutely amazing.

Yep, but why aren't you in La Paz?

Lone Rider · 11-19-2007, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Fist

couldnt find the lighthouse...but checked out the mission....

the beaches south of mulege along the bay are incredible....absolutely amazing.

Northside of the river...at the end.

Yes, movie-set beautiful.

Where did you stay in Mulege?

The Fist · 11-19-2007, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pelon

Yep, but why aren't you in La Paz?

im all good in loreto...i dont feel like running pavement any further south...especially when its not all coastal....looking to head north tomorrow.

Humunn · 12-03-2007, 10:18 PM

Pelon,

Great info! A couple questions. How confident are you that fuel will continue to be available at Catavina? Did it appear to be an ongoing operation (even out of barrels) or something that could be gone at any time? I'll be riding from Gonzaga to El Rosario and there is no fuel anywhere in between except for Catavina.

Also, any recommendation on places to stay in El Rosario? It will be a group of 6 off roaders. Nothing fancy but something maybe close to the beach, good food, cool bar, etc.

Thanks,
Greg

Pelon · 12-04-2007, 06:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Humunn

Pelon,

Great info! A couple questions. How confident are you that fuel will continue to be available at Catavina? Did it appear to be an ongoing operation (even out of barrels) or something that could be gone at any time? I'll be riding from Gonzaga to El Rosario and there is no fuel anywhere in between except for Catavina.

Also, any recommendation on places to stay in El Rosario? It will be a group of 6 off roaders. Nothing fancy but something maybe close to the beach, good food, cool bar, etc.

Thanks,
Greg

Greg-

FWIW, I have been up and down Baja many times. On a couple of occasions, the pumps have been working in Catavina. Those are the only times when I have NOT seen them selling gas from the barrels. I have never been through that town without finding gas.

I have never tried staying in El Rosario, but I have heard that the Baja Cactus is not bad. It looks to have a bout 20 rooms, or so. Also, a friend told me that Mama Espinosa's (a great can't miss restaurant) had opened up some cabanas (conveniently called Cabanas Espinosa, I believe) right next door. Finally, there is some little RV / bungalow place on the other en of town called Sinai, or something like that. If you are willing to scoot up the road a bit to San Quintin, there are a couple of great spots, including the Old Mill.

Good luck, and I hope you have a good trip.

Pelon

dirty dave · 12-04-2007, 07:05 AM

i got gas from the "can guy" in catavinia a few weeks ago . on my way noth he wasnt there but lives down the dirt road across the hwy just north of the hotel [IMG]

[/IMG]

11-17-2007, 04:28 PM	#1
Pelon ^OP Dia Por Dia Joined: Sep 2006 Location: San Diego, CA Oddometer: 1,061	Baja Pemex and Road Report Just got back from a week in Baja. No shortages of gas from Tijuana to El Rosario (per usual). The pump at the Pinta in Catavina is NOT operating. However, gas was being sold from the barell. More barells at Bahia de Los Angeles. The next open pump is at Villa Jesus Maria, which is about 30 miles north of Guerrero Negro. I believe that makes it a 194 mile stretch between El Rosario and the next pump. The barell gas is fine . . . and they are open late. I came through Catavina at 7 p.m., and they were still selling it. The pumps are open in Guerrero Negro (red and green), Vizcaino (green only), San Ignacio (green only), Santa Rosalia (red and green), Mulege (green only), Loreto (red and green), Ciudad Insurgentes (did not note if they had both red and green), Ciudad Constitucion (red and green), El Centenario (don't know if they had both), La Paz (red and green), Los Barriles (red and green). San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas obviously both had red and green. Todos Santos was only green, I believe, but I may have misnoted that one. (I have a question mark in my notebook and I do not know why.) ALL of the detours from the hurricane seem to have been ironed out. There are still a couple of stretches (one near Mulege, and one between El Cien and Le Centenario) where the roads got quite rough, but there are no longer any details onto temporary bridges. Downtown La Paz has some construction going on, and the 19 is an absolute mess for about 10 km out of Cabo. It is hard pack dirt, with large stones, dust, gravel, and trucks. One lane alternating at times, too. Still, the 19 is a much better bet at night from Cabo to La Paz than the 1, which is a bitch to ride even in the day, imho. Military checkpoints going south were 30 second affairs. Going north, there were extensive delays. However, they were letting bikes through without much hassle. Random Notes: North and south on the 1 just north of Guerrero Negro was a pain in the ass too, but only on my return trip. THey were doing some sort of road resurfacing, and it was a good 20 minute delay. Watch for the loose goats on the road south of Mulege, and the buzzards to the west of Insurgentes. Watch for cattle everywhere. The big ones seem to know what they are doing (more or less), but the calves can dart out into the road without warning. On the way south, the Vados north of Catavina were filled with sand and rubble, but that was from the rainstorm on Sunday night / Monday morning. By Friday, they were clear. Watch the shoulders on the 19 from Todos Santos all the way to San Pedro. Very fine silt. Have to exit the road carefully and weight the rear wheel. Unmarked tope (both directions) just north of San Quintin . . . it's got me twice in one year, and the second time I was actually looking for it. The 1 from Catavina all the way to El Rosario is a TOTAL bitch at night. Not recommended. Same for Colonet to Santo Tomas. Finally . . . the weather right now is OUTSTANDING. Never hot. Never cold except for the return trip north after dark from Catavina to the border. Be safe, and I hope this info helps. Pelon __________________ South . . . the answer lies south.

12-03-2007, 10:18 PM	#13
Humunn Moto Prozac Joined: Dec 2006 Location: Sunny Central Oregon Oddometer: 952	Pelon, Great info! A couple questions. How confident are you that fuel will continue to be available at Catavina? Did it appear to be an ongoing operation (even out of barrels) or something that could be gone at any time? I'll be riding from Gonzaga to El Rosario and there is no fuel anywhere in between except for Catavina. Also, any recommendation on places to stay in El Rosario? It will be a group of 6 off roaders. Nothing fancy but something maybe close to the beach, good food, cool bar, etc. Thanks, Greg __________________ *High Desert Adventures* Backcountry Motorcycle Tours www.highdesertadventures.net 2009 KTM 450 EXC The Citrus Mistress - 2004 KTM 250 EXC 2T plated Little Miss Britches - 2010 Yamaha FZ1 Legally Black

12-04-2007, 07:05 AM	#15
dirty dave Banned Joined: Sep 2005 Location: milwaukee wi Oddometer: 1,086	i got gas from the "can guy" in catavinia a few weeks ago . on my way noth he wasnt there but lives down the dirt road across the hwy just north of the hotel [IMG][/IMG]

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11-17-2007, 05:20 PM	#2
The Fist Knulp Joined: Mar 2003 Location: Dolores, CO Oddometer: 3,567	Great thread...Thanks!! I also wanted to mention that there wasn't any gas in Puertocitos -- wasn't a big deal for me, but thought I'd mention it here. I'll be in Mulege tomorrow!

11-18-2007, 04:39 PM	#6
The Fist Knulp Joined: Mar 2003 Location: Dolores, CO Oddometer: 3,567	In Mulege tonight....Magna only. Is it just me or is Mulege, forgive me for saying, is a bit disappointing.... I'm looking for a place to chill for a few days, and Mulege is not it....Loreto maybe?

11-19-2007, 03:46 PM	#9
The Fist Knulp Joined: Mar 2003 Location: Dolores, CO Oddometer: 3,567	couldnt find the lighthouse...but checked out the mission.... the beaches south of mulege along the bay are incredible....absolutely amazing.