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Old 03-01-2011, 05:35 AM   #4456
Muddler
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Location: Dardanup, Western Australia
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Can you explain more about this please
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcwrx View Post
.... then from bending lines you need a wire with electricty passing through thats all..I can give much more info if you need...
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Old 03-02-2011, 02:16 PM   #4457
jack splash
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Rally Lights and Fairing

Hey: I'm selling the TT Rally Lights and Fairing setup on my X. It's orginally for the BMW HP2 with a custom bracket.

PM or email me @ jack-bsm@com for details.








I'll post this in the flea market soon. Wanted to give you guys a heads up.

Jack
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Old 03-21-2011, 07:46 PM   #4458
AZ-Twin
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Location: Sierra Vista, AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leafman60 View Post
That's a very nice job and my hat is off to you !

One comment about HID. I don't like them for a stand-alone high beam. HID takes a little while to warm up and reach full intensity. When you hit your high beam button, you don't have full intensity right off the bat.

I have used the H-4 type HID for a long time with no problems. Yes, they incorporate a electromagnetic solenoid that actually moves the lighted bulb in and out to change the angle of light on the reflector and direct it high or low. You have HID for both low beam and an instant high beam since both beams emanate from the same bulb.

Due to the solenoid, your lamp bucket must have enough room behind the reflector to accommodate the solenoid that sticks-out behind the reflector assembly a little more than a regular H-4 bulb.

It works on the Xco. I have one on mine.

There is a unique problem, however, with the Xco and fitting HID. This may also be an issue with the dual lamp set-up nicely described here.

The stiker or ignitor for the HID that spikes the bulb to kick it off can sometimes interfere with the BMW instrument panel and computer. The voltage spike apparently can, in some cases, cause the computer to re-set when the key is turned "on" and show an "A6" fault code. When that happens, you trip computer and clock will go to zero. It seems to happen during the initial diagnostic routine which is when the striker would strike.

The bike will re-set and continue to start and run normally. However, your computer and clock will need re-setting.

I am not 100 percent sure why this happens. Originally, I suspected that it was due to a weak battery and a momentary voltage drop when the HID striker energizes. After experimenting with a fully-charged battery, I am not so sure that is the problem. The problem persisted.

(Sorry to digress on this)

There are two ways to solve this problem.

First, set your engine run switch is set to "off." Turn the key "on" and let the computer go through it's diagnostics first. When that is complete, turn the engine run switch "on" and proceed to start the engine. I have never had the fault problem when doing this.

Second, and the option I took, is to re-wire the headlamp system for a delayed turn-on. I can post more details later. Use a Harley, yep good ole HD, VOES vacuum operated electric switch and a ganged set of relays to work off your manifold vaccum and energize the lamp only after the engine is running.

You can actually tune the VOES to alter the delay. Any model of VOES is fine since the only difference in them is the factory setting for vacuum levels, which is manually adjustable by the adjuster screw under a removable silicone seal. You use a ganged pair of relays that effects a latching action in order to keep everything on even if the motor stops and the vacuum goes away. Of course, once the key is turned off, you are back to the beginning.

This has two benefits. It lets the computer diagnostic complete before the HID ever kicks in and it minimizes the drain on the small battery when you are trying to start the bike. (My big GS is like that from the factory)

I put all my many add-ons on this circuit via a Centech box.

I now have zero HID problems and my battery can focus on the starter motor alone when it's time to start.

I will post some details of this and many other things I've done soon.
Leafman,

I am having the A06 issue with my bike when my HIDs fire. Like you said, if the kill switch is in, then no problem.

So, i am going to take your advice and use a VOES. I am going to rewire the whole deal.

Thanks for the heads up and a good solution.

Rob
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Rob Swartzwelder, Southern AZ
I'm not real fast, but I do have a dog named Dakar!
97 M900, 07 G650 XChallenge,11 KTM 990 ADV R
2011 North up the CDR
Sierra Vista AZ to Paonia CO and Back through Moab UT


AZ-Twin screwed with this post 03-21-2011 at 07:53 PM
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Old 03-24-2011, 03:13 PM   #4459
keep it simple!
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Finally it arrived, the OEM muffler changed by Stephan Scheffelmeier, and it was worth waiting.
From the outside you can hardly see the difference, only the diameter of the inner tube leaving the muffler is now round (OEM= oval) and +/- 10 mm larger.
Compared to the OEM i couldn't believe this muffler has been opened up and welded together, one thing is sure only a 1st class masterwelder can do this job.
Sound at idle is somewhat deeper than original, I can only compare to previous bikes i owned, an uncorked XR600 or DRZ400 is way louder at idle. The challenge sounds happy...and willing to ride.
Questions with other mufflers is always the same, what's the cost (beside the money) for a better sound? More on top and less at lower rpm? Before i installed the muffler i asked Stephan, he says "a little bit better on top, a little loss down low".
The ride I've made was the road to work, country roads where farmers drive by, gravel and mud on asphalt, a road that I know so well that I can predict at each time what my challenge will do.
The less I can say is that I'm surprised. In the first place the sound dark and deep at middle and high rpm's, closing the throttle it's like that the pipe is sucking air in, no backfiring. I'm sure with this pipe you pass all the sound tests at an official enduro. No noise harm in the city or for your neighbours or for your own ears (the Sharks on my Thruxton do harm my own ears!). No officer will stop for too much noise!
On top the bike breathes freelier,but I'm a torque driver and there the gain is noticeable: in turns I could drive a higher gear (due to smoother power delivery) so the bike won't break out so easily and corner speed is higher.
OK, the weight is the same as the OEM but i don't bother: the OEM is a reflexion muffler,so the time that others have to change the wool every ...miles i'm driving, it mounted better than any other aftermarket and top quality.
Reviews of aftermarkets learned me that in most cases they are not better than OEM, some even came back from their aftermarket and mounted the OEM.
I can say that this modified muffler IS better than the OEM.

+ dark,deep sound (but very acceptable)
+ smoother down low
, freelier at high rpm
+ top quality of the OEM, top welding from Scheffelmeier
+ reflektion muffler=no servicing

- weight
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Old 03-24-2011, 04:44 PM   #4460
satur9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ-Twin View Post
Leafman,

I am having the A06 issue with my bike when my HIDs fire. Like you said, if the kill switch is in, then no problem.

So, i am going to take your advice and use a VOES. I am going to rewire the whole deal.

Thanks for the heads up and a good solution.

Rob
i also had same problem. i added a switch so i could manually turn on lights well after engine was running. it still would reset the clock sometimes.the problem is definately voltage drop.i ended up adding a half farad capacitor.i tried all the other tricks first with no luck. single h4 kit wire to oddessy battery.now with capacitor works fine now.
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Old 03-24-2011, 11:15 PM   #4461
AZ-Twin
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Location: Sierra Vista, AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by satur9 View Post
i also had same problem. i added a switch so i could manually turn on lights well after engine was running. it still would reset the clock sometimes.the problem is definately voltage drop.i ended up adding a half farad capacitor.i tried all the other tricks first with no luck. single h4 kit wire to oddessy battery.now with capacitor works fine now.
Ugh, I hope this fixes it, else I will wire up a cap. Soon behind my headlight will look like the inside of a TV made in the 70s.

Here is my plan for now. I ordered a VOES and when it gets here it will only take a short time to modify the wiring.

I am going to add a single pole, double throw center off switch which will give me some options.

1. (NC) Normal operation, headlights function when vacuum is present.
2. In off position headlight off with engine running.
3. (NO) When this position is selected I bypass VOES to illuminate headlight when the engine is not running.

So here is my revised diagram, and I fixed the diode for whoever noticed it was backwards before.

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Rob Swartzwelder, Southern AZ
I'm not real fast, but I do have a dog named Dakar!
97 M900, 07 G650 XChallenge,11 KTM 990 ADV R
2011 North up the CDR
Sierra Vista AZ to Paonia CO and Back through Moab UT

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Old 03-25-2011, 02:16 AM   #4462
Cruz
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Hey Rob, how good would the standard Buell light setup be compared to the oem light?

Is the Hid worth all the extra work and hassle?
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Old 03-25-2011, 12:50 PM   #4463
AZ-Twin
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Location: Sierra Vista, AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruz View Post
Hey Rob, how good would the standard Buell light setup be compared to the oem light?

Is the Hid worth all the extra work and hassle?
Not sure if it is worth the extra work, but I am having fun messing with it so it is not a real big deal. My headlights are really nice now. If this VOES deal does not solve the problem, I am going to go back to the drawing board.

I think a Buell housing with 55W H7 bulbs would be better than the stock setup, especially if you wired it up so both high and low are on for High, and used relays so there is plenty of current flow. I have improved the headlights on vehicles just by adding a relay and larger wire from the battery to the relay, and from the relay to the bulb.

If these HIDs keep giving me grief, I might go back to Halogen, but I like the fact that they draw less current than two 55W Halogen bulbs would.

I have also not ruled out that the ballasts might just be too close to the instrument cluster, and it is some RF interference that is zapping something when the bulbs fire. Walter said he never had this problem, and his are mounted on the opposite side of an aluminum plate. So I might just put some shielding around the ballasts. who knows what I will do in the future, I might rework all this next winter, depending on how it performs this summer.

I would like to try out some of those Bi Xenon projectors Walter mentioned. I just need to figure a way to make it look good. without a fairing
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Rob Swartzwelder, Southern AZ
I'm not real fast, but I do have a dog named Dakar!
97 M900, 07 G650 XChallenge,11 KTM 990 ADV R
2011 North up the CDR
Sierra Vista AZ to Paonia CO and Back through Moab UT

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Old 03-25-2011, 07:30 PM   #4464
DRONE
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Rob--Not sure what kind of HID's you have, but over on another thread, the 1150GS guys are discovering interference with the Rider Information Display especially from the newer "digital" ballasts. These are the ballasts that are usually sold as "Slim" ballasts with external ignitors. Chinese, of course. The RID disruptions might be similar to getting the A06 fault on the XC. 1150 solution has been to move the ballasts and ignitors farther from the instruments. Your plan to make them switchable might help, but you still get the sudden big draw down for the 1st two seconds after you throw the switch and that's when the interference is most likely to happen.
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Old 03-26-2011, 06:02 PM   #4465
AZ-Twin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRONE View Post
Rob--Not sure what kind of HID's you have, but over on another thread, the 1150GS guys are discovering interference with the Rider Information Display especially from the newer "digital" ballasts. These are the ballasts that are usually sold as "Slim" ballasts with external ignitors. Chinese, of course. The RID disruptions might be similar to getting the A06 fault on the XC. 1150 solution has been to move the ballasts and ignitors farther from the instruments. Your plan to make them switchable might help, but you still get the sudden big draw down for the 1st two seconds after you throw the switch and that's when the interference is most likely to happen.
I'm running DDM Slim Ballast.

Thanks Drone, this is good info.
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Rob Swartzwelder, Southern AZ
I'm not real fast, but I do have a dog named Dakar!
97 M900, 07 G650 XChallenge,11 KTM 990 ADV R
2011 North up the CDR
Sierra Vista AZ to Paonia CO and Back through Moab UT

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Old 03-26-2011, 06:13 PM   #4466
Cruz
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Location: Northside Brisbane, Qld Australia
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Found a suitable light for you Rob. You can ditch those troublesome Hids.

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Old 03-28-2011, 12:41 PM   #4467
DiscoDino
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Location: Lebanon/NYC
Oddometer: 1,819
LED turn signals

Hey there - been searching on the bike, in the manual, and online for this topic: is there something that needs changing when installing LED turn signals in place of the OEM ones? I bough an LED flasher relay but don't see where the OEM one fits...thoughts? Anyone install LED turn signals and the flashing rate went well without any alterations?

FYI: when I installed LEDs on my truck I changed the flasher relay but I knew where it was

Thanks in advance (and apologies for the cross-post, just trying to get the maximum feedback)

Nadim
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Old 03-28-2011, 01:36 PM   #4468
Gunslinger1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDino View Post
Hey there - been searching on the bike, in the manual, and online for this topic: is there something that needs changing when installing LED turn signals in place of the OEM ones? I bough an LED flasher relay but don't see where the OEM one fits...thoughts? Anyone install LED turn signals and the flashing rate went well without any alterations?

FYI: when I installed LEDs on my truck I changed the flasher relay but I knew where it was

Thanks in advance (and apologies for the cross-post, just trying to get the maximum feedback)

Nadim

I installed LED on my bike and had to put a resistor inline for them to work correctly. Bulbs have enough resistance and the LED doesn't.
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Old 03-28-2011, 01:44 PM   #4469
DiscoDino
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunslinger1 View Post
I installed LED on my bike and had to put a resistor inline for them to work correctly. Bulbs have enough resistance and the LED doesn't.
Thanks for your prompt reply...so you had one put inline with each pair (so 1 front, 1 rear)?
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Old 03-28-2011, 01:50 PM   #4470
Gunslinger1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDino View Post
Thanks for your prompt reply...so you had one put inline with each pair (so 1 front, 1 rear)?

I only replaced the rear.............I bet you will need 2.
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