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Old 11-21-2007, 08:42 AM   #16
dorkpunch
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if i'm not mistaken a new cam is only about $150. I think you'd be hard pressed to find a place to repair your cam for that.
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Old 11-21-2007, 03:57 PM   #17
clintnz
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Bugger!

I think I'm going to do those follower bearings on mine now, I've heard too many reports of them failing, esp around 40K km like mine is. The bikes off the road for a few weeks waiting for parts after the sheep incident so it's probably the ideal time to get it done. Might check the waterpump while we're in there too. $50 or $100 of parts is probably cheap peace of mind I reckon.

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Old 11-21-2007, 06:31 PM   #18
gunnerbuck
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I inspected my followers at 40 K and they still looked like new.... But I replaced them anyways , better safe than sorry...

Another situation for changing them is if your bike has run low on oil for a spell. The followers are the highest thing in the engine and may be the first to feel the effects of oil deprivation...
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Old 11-21-2007, 09:42 PM   #19
Dotbond OP
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Photos of the Drain Plug with the mesh filter and the pan i drained the engine oil into showing the debris.
Price for a new cam is $290 NZD
Bearing is about $40 NZD
Also got a guesstimate on the time needed to dissasemble the motor, clean and re-assemble was 8 - 10 hours work at the local KTM dealer at about $65/hr. F**k.
A BMW dealership rate is cheaper than that!!
Flushing the motor with oil a few times sounds like me.




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Old 11-21-2007, 10:09 PM   #20
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Regarding the waterpump, I take it the seal is #5 in the picture??
0760152472 Water Pump Shaft Seal Ring.
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Old 11-21-2007, 10:28 PM   #21
bmwktmbill
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DB,
i never heard of a a KTM impeller failing but I replaced mine anyway. I would agree that #5 is the seal.

I have heard of impeller failures with the Kaws and the BMW singles,
FWIW. when I replaced mine but I wanted a spare.
b.
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Old 11-21-2007, 10:28 PM   #22
gunnerbuck
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Your waterpump seal should still be OK with only 15,500 KM on the bike. I redid mine at 40,000 and the old one showed no signs of weepage. The shaft did have a small groove worn in it from the lip of the seals rubbing but this was minor.....But like my follower bearings I rebuilt the pump anyways to play it safe {plus if you pull it apart you might as well rebuild it}.
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Old 11-21-2007, 11:17 PM   #23
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Any opinions on the debris on the drain plug??
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Old 11-22-2007, 12:53 AM   #24
holycaveman
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Your oil filter and screen should take care of any excess shavings. Once you get it back together, change the oil and filter again soon. You should be fine.
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Old 11-22-2007, 05:46 AM   #25
halfcab
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I suggest you tear the motor down and clean out. Plus flush the "complete" oil system, oil lines, don't forget the frame.

All it would take is one small object hiding for a while to make it's way to a roller bearing.
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Old 11-22-2007, 07:47 AM   #26
gunnerbuck
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When I had my top end failure I did a complete teardown,flush and replaced the crank bearings. But I had larger debris chunks in the oil {piston ring pieces} and they did damage 1 crank inner bearing race. But the path they took to get to the sump was right thru the unprotected {unsealed} side of the crank bearings as well as the conrod bearings. In your case the oils path will take it down the cam chain canal to get to the base where the screen and magnets hopefully pick up any large chunks from the oil before going thru the pumps.

All other bearings in my engine were in good shape other than the 1 crank bearing...

Chances are that you will get away with just a few flushes and things will be fine but as Halfcab suggests all it takes is 1 little chunk to ruin your day.
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Old 11-22-2007, 10:11 PM   #27
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I see some weird looking tools are required to strip the motor, as in a clutch basket holding tool. Are there alternative things that can be used?

1. So what special tools do i need if i were to strip the motor myself?

2. How 'stripped' would the motor need to get?

3. Also what gaskets and seals(if any) would be required?
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Old 11-22-2007, 11:06 PM   #28
bmwktmbill
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DB,
You can always rebuild the motor if you have a problem...if you have a problem, if you get my drift.
In this life I think I replaced more good parts than bad ones.
b.
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Old 11-22-2007, 11:46 PM   #29
gunnerbuck
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#1 The only special tool that I needed to do the complete teardown was a flywheel puller and instead of buying one I rented one for $5. I used an electric impact wrench to take off the clutch and crank end nuts so very little holding effort was required... You will need some bigger sockets to fit some of the nuts and a good torque wrench for reassembling {125 lbs torque required on the primary}. A second 1/4" torque wrench is handy for the low torque applications and will see the most use. For reassembly you will need to come up with a way to hold the crankshaft while torqueing the end nuts. I made up a couple of blocks that straddled the case and used the piston pin onto the blocks to hold her steady. If you have a good air wrench and trust the psi setting you could use it to torque the bolts and not have to hold as much force. For tightening the clutch hub I made up a holding tool out of a piece of 520 chain and used the countershaft sprocket chained to a dowel sticking out of the rear engine mounthole with the tranny in gear to hold things.

#2 I would say you would probably be able to flush things out pretty good by splitting the cases but leaving the gearbox in place. I use varsol, a small pump and a catch tank that recycles the solvent to flush engines. You can tilt the engine and shove the hose into the nooks and crannies and flush the debris out. Take the oil pumps apart and check them plus blow air and solvent thru oil passage ways.

#3 If your carefull you can reuse some of the casegaskets but I would have a spare for everyone. Don't try to reuse the centercase gasket as this is one that has to be replaced. You'll need a headgasket {expensive}, a basegasket, a new seal ring for the camchainguide bolt, Hondabond HT for the rocker cover, loctite blue. Should also replace a few O-rings mainly the one inside the countershaft bushing and on the starter and starter gear cover. Also I would also recommend replacing the 2 studs and nuts at the front and back of the cylinder head as these always seem to get a bit crusty. Also inspect your engine mounting bolts {mainly the long ones} for signs of fatigue (pitting and crustiness} and replace if they look bad...


This is a pretty big undertaking that you may not feel comfortable doing. If this is the case I would suggest that you pull the engine out and take it apart as far as the top end removal and then take it to the shop for them to split,flush and reassemble the bottom end...You will save big time on labour costs....Or just replace the cam+ followers and flush the oil a few times and call it good...

Good luck with whatever way you choose to go....
David...

gunnerbuck screwed with this post 11-24-2007 at 07:51 AM
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Old 11-23-2007, 12:23 AM   #30
Dotbond OP
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bmwktmbill and gunnerbuck, thank you for your input. Much appreciated.
I will be making a decision on Sunday after seeing a retired mechanic friend. Need to order parts soon before xmas arrives otherwise i will be stuffed for a 5 day ride at the end of January 08.

Will keep you posted.
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