ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 05-06-2011, 09:41 PM   #46
windaddiction
Ditch Finder
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Van island, British Columbia
Oddometer: 8
Well as many people have guessed here is the roller..... the only thing the new center part was not a tight fit?? is this normal?
Attached Images
 
windaddiction is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2011, 01:08 AM   #47
Dotbond OP
Africa, Africa
 
Dotbond's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Dunedin. New Zealand
Oddometer: 745
Quote:
Originally Posted by windaddiction View Post
Well as many people have guessed here is the roller..... the only thing the new center part was not a tight fit?? is this normal?
Correct, the new centre part slides in nice and easy, ain't a tight fit.
__________________
2012 KTM 690 R
2010 KTM 990 R (Sold)

2008 N.Z.Yamaha Safari: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=306905
2007 N.Z.Adventures Safari: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=201557
Dotbond is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2011, 12:03 PM   #48
windaddiction
Ditch Finder
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Van island, British Columbia
Oddometer: 8
how do you keep it from vibrating out?
windaddiction is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2011, 01:01 PM   #49
theGrinch
SNF Dream Riders
 
theGrinch's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: On the move
Oddometer: 1,922
Look a couple of pages back
__________________

Quote:
Originally Posted by pcvance View Post
Who's the clueless noob?
theGrinch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2011, 01:38 PM   #50
clintnz
Trans-Global Chook Chaser
 
clintnz's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2004
Location: Rotoiti, New Zealand
Oddometer: 3,336
Tmb004

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBit View Post
Offtopic: I also wondered why this bearing is a double side sealed type? Plenty of oil makes it to the bearing location, so I'd say use that oil....
The original sealed bearing lasted 50K km no problem. I took out the seals on the new bearing I installed at 50K km. It was still in perfect shape 45K km later. I took the seals out of the next bearing too.

BUT... now, thinking about this, & looking at the head design, taking the seals out of that bearing may mean that the oil level in the well under the cam could run a little lower as oil will be able to drain out through the bearing.



I think there is a lot of oil thrown up into the head normally so it might make no difference, but maybe just taking out the inner seal would be best?

Cheers
Clint
__________________
'03 KTM 640 LC4 Enduro

The wilderness, the desert - why are they not crowded
.................................................. .....with pilgrims?
clintnz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2011, 06:36 PM   #51
Zecatfish
XTique Rider
 
Zecatfish's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Arkansas USA
Oddometer: 7,919
I would bet anyone needing a new cam could have webcam weld and regrind their worn one for better performance too.
__________________
Google Earth GPS Howto (still a work in progress) use USGS TOPO Maps to layout trails.
http://home.windstream.net/catfish/GPS


The Early Bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese.
https://sites.google.com/site/ozarkadventuretours/

Zecatfish is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2011, 11:37 PM   #52
makazica
Studly Adventurer
 
makazica's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2008
Location: Zagreb, Croatia
Oddometer: 738
Quote:
Originally Posted by clintnz View Post
The original sealed bearing lasted 50K km no problem. I took out the seals on the new bearing I installed at 50K km. It was still in perfect shape 45K km later. I took the seals out of the next bearing too.

BUT... now, thinking about this, & looking at the head design, taking the seals out of that bearing may mean that the oil level in the well under the cam could run a little lower as oil will be able to drain out through the bearing.



I think there is a lot of oil thrown up into the head normally so it might make no difference, but maybe just taking out the inner seal would be best?

Cheers
Clint
Clint, interesting point there! When I did my base gasket I changed both bearings on the cam and talked to a local KTM mechanic about taking the seals out. He reccommended not to because as he sad, the seals protect the bearing from metal shavings and make it last longer.

We all know that a good LC4 can have quite a lot of shavings on the drain bolt magnet and this makes sense so I opted not to take the seals out.

Also knowing that the cam rollers are next to the bearing and with their reputation and known service/change interval I'm kind of thinking it might be better to let the seals be......

Just my 2'c.

M.
makazica is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2011, 01:13 AM   #53
Aqueous
n00b
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Oddometer: 1
I've replaced the cam follower bearings three times in the last 30t kilometers. On the third replacement, and just around 300 kilometers after, the intake rocker arm and the camshaft broke.. The needle bearings scattered inside.. Good thing the needle bearings didn't break the timing chain or gear..
Now my problem is always the intake bearings.. Can anyone give an insight on why this happens... I change oil and filters religiously. And i just follow the valve clearance of .015mm of the manual.. Could a wrong valve clearance adjustment cause this...

Waiting for parts......

Thanks
Attached Images
 
Aqueous is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2011, 06:01 AM   #54
laramie LC4
crash test dummy!
 
laramie LC4's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Location: Tucson, Az
Oddometer: 2,348
Quote:
Originally Posted by clintnz View Post
I think there is a lot of oil thrown up into the head normally so it might make no difference, but maybe just taking out the inner seal would be best?

Cheers
Clint
another option is to add another oil line to the top of the engine like the RFS's have. if you look at the top of your rocker cover there is a spot for just such an addition, they just never used it. you can drill, then tap, and add a "jet screw" banjo bolt and now you have plenty of oil. if you decide not to use it, no problem, just cap the hole with an M10 bolt. no harm no foul. i'm currently having this done to my engine as we speak and will hopefully have some more info about the whole process soon (assuming i ever get my engine back.....)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zecatfish View Post
I would bet anyone needing a new cam could have webcam weld and regrind their worn one for better performance too.
my cam is having that done as we speak as well. my builder used the OEM cam, added a bunch of very hard metal (sorry forgot what kind) and then grinds it down to his new specs. he swears that the cam in his 613 RFS has been ripped on for a long time and still looks like it's brand new. he swears i will never need to buy another cam again. it's such an aggressive cam that i will probably end up ruining everything else around it first....

laramie
__________________
DON'T TRUST CUT 7! HE IS A CROOK! ASK ME HOW I KNOW.

'12 LC8 990R, '02 LC4 640, '05 WR 450f (part-out), '98 XR400R, '76 KE100, '05 525 (Step-Child)
laramie LC4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2011, 01:15 PM   #55
clintnz
Trans-Global Chook Chaser
 
clintnz's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2004
Location: Rotoiti, New Zealand
Oddometer: 3,336
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqueous View Post
And i just follow the valve clearance of .015mm of the manual.. Could a wrong valve clearance adjustment cause this...
If you are actually setting them to 0.015 mm that could be part of the problem, the spec is 0.15 mm. Otherwise that is really strange, maybe a sticky bent valve or something?? If you are waiting on parts anyway I would pull the head & inspect the valves.

Cheers
Clint
__________________
'03 KTM 640 LC4 Enduro

The wilderness, the desert - why are they not crowded
.................................................. .....with pilgrims?
clintnz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2011, 07:15 PM   #56
wrk2surf
on the gas or brakes
 
wrk2surf's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: THE exact center of California/Bass lake/Yosemite
Oddometer: 6,269
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/...ppet_gauge_++/
__________________
Thanks for the 2014 support:BELL HELMETS, SCOTT USA, Kriega USA, Carbon-pro.com, GPR stabilzers, Renazco Racing, Sidi/Motonation, Masters paint and body, Magura , motolab , Tripy GPS, Loctite and Dunlop tires .
wrk2surf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2011, 10:54 PM   #57
gunnerbuck
Island Hopper
 
gunnerbuck's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Location: N.V.I, B.C.
Oddometer: 3,895
Aqueous, It is possible that the roller pin had slid out and hung up to cause this breakage of your roller carriage... What are you using to flare the shaft ends to hold them from sliding out? Is there any hits/ dings on the cover/head to indicate if the pin did indeed come loose?



f
gunnerbuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2011, 09:44 AM   #58
Alik
viertaKTMotor *****
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Poznan, Poland
Oddometer: 227
Quote:
Originally Posted by laramie LC4 View Post
another option is to add another oil line to the top of the engine like the RFS's have. if you look at the top of your rocker cover there is a spot for just such an addition, they just never used it. you can drill, then tap, and add a "jet screw" banjo bolt and now you have plenty of oil. if you decide not to use it, no problem, just cap the hole with an M10 bolt. no harm no foul. i'm currently having this done to my engine as we speak and will hopefully have some more info about the whole process soon (assuming i ever get my engine back.....)

Hallo Laramie,

could You elaborate a little more - where is that space located?



Do You mind that spot in the middle near ((3))?
Have You got Your engine back yet? I didn’t find out by reading the latest posts.
Alik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2012, 01:55 AM   #59
5ambamboo
n00b
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 6
Hi there guys, apologies for being unsociable and putting my first post in here without saying hi but this flippin KTbooM has got me in a very unsociable mood .

I've been lurking on here for ages and frequently use the LC4 Index as a source of knowledge, but I'm now completely stumped: I came here via the LC4 clutch noise thread http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=118095&page=5, because as my friend put it 'If I didn't know better I'd say your barrel was full of sand!?'

Basically the noise is getting bad; much worse than when I got the bike (03 640 adv) 2 years and 8000 miles ago. You now have to shout when you're stood next to the bike to be heard over the idle noise.

I have read this thread, checked my cam and found it grooved by approx 0.1mm. The roller seemed fine though; it slides sideways along the shaft a little, and may have a minute amount of radial play, (but my sausage fingers aren't quite delicate enough to tell whether it does, or whether its all in my imagination) but rotated nice and smoothly when I tried it.

So, can the damage to my cam just have been caused by poor adjustment as I assumed? or is the bearing definitely not right and possibly the cause of the 'sand in my barrel' noise?



Please help. I want to go do some more adventuring but daren't take my bike past the end of the street like this.
5ambamboo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2012, 02:21 AM   #60
Alik
viertaKTMotor *****
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Poznan, Poland
Oddometer: 227
Check the bearings - how to they move, how to they feel. If they are shot you can feel it. There is some sort of roughness and it definitely feels not all right.
Alik is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 06:22 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014