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Old 03-08-2010, 06:06 PM   #76
Eurobiker
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$700 would be good in that condition. If its sat any time at all, you'll need to clean the carb(s). Hope for the 85, single carb, dry sump, no bottom issues that some of the 83,84s had. PM Corky1 for more info- he has several.



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Old 03-14-2010, 11:28 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhaynes
I'm still trying to find out for sure if it's single-carb for sure. Haven't seen it yet but from photos it looks like it's a 25 year old bike, well used but no rust and not horrifically abused. Looks all stock.

I'm trying to figure out what a fair price is.

The big problem is I can't ride at the moment so I may have to let it pass since I won't be able to give it a whirl for at least a month. I know what an XR400 feels like from a couple of test rides on them, what feels different on the 350?

Anything specific to the XR350 that I should be on the lookout for like parts that tend to shake, seize, break, get lost, splinter, dry rot, explode on contact or cause loss of vision in one or both eyes? I know about the swingarm pivot on the XR400 and I assume that after all these years all the steering head and wheel bearings are probably shot.

I'd rather have an XR400 but if I could get a decent deal on this one (I'm thinking maybe $700-$800 range) it seems like it would do the job. Just looking for something more manageable than my 950SE on the really tight single track.

Anything besides a larger gas tank required to make it woods ready?
the 83/84 had quicker steering geometry and a shorter wheelbase, they are better in the really tight stuff.
85 is more stretched out and more stable, slower steering.
STill, either is going to feel like an XR'r after a 950. :)

Have em both, comparable. Bottom line though is if it needs much of ANYTHING you will very quickly add another $1,000 and then you could have bought the 400. Parts add up fast.
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Old 03-14-2010, 11:31 PM   #78
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My 85 is in the shop getting the USD forks put on. And a new header pipe.
I think i'm gonna go crazy on it since I've already got way too much into it to ever sell it. Have a 650L swingarm and rear disk brake assembly and I'm bidding on a 17" rear wheel to fit it, so if I get the wheel I guess I'll be making that swap.
That Aloop kit is looking awfully tempting.
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Old 03-19-2010, 10:22 PM   #79
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just in case you XT fans are looking......

1982 xt550 in LA for sale.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...8#post12451938



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Old 03-20-2010, 10:04 AM   #80
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That's pretty!
And a gorgeous shot.
Must be a photographer, can't imagine an angle that would look any better.
That midpipe is a sewer pipe!
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Old 03-23-2010, 09:47 AM   #81
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anyone SEEN an ALOOP kit on a 350?
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Old 04-01-2010, 03:02 PM   #82
gvthnks
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Coil specs

Can anyone tell me some electrical specs for an 83 XR350r?

I'm troubleshooting a no fire issue. I'm waiting on a FSM but in the meantime, if you have one and will post the specs it would be most appreciated.

I'm looking for the ignition coil primary and secondary specs in ohms,
pick up coil specs in ohms,
generator specs in ohms.



Thanks
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Old 04-01-2010, 06:17 PM   #83
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according to clymer

ignition coil
primary 0.2-0.3Ohms
secondary 3.7-4.5kOhms

pulse generator
450-580 Ohms

stator
exciter 50-250 Ohms (xr250r)

I couldn't find specific xr350r stator numbers. if it's hard to start and the spark is weak and you're sure it's not the CDI, pulse coil or ignition coil, then I would suspect the stator. pretty much all of the original stators I have had on my XR/XL bikes from around that time have burned out by now or have really weak output. the ones with really weak output have been low resistance and the ones with no output are open. the exciter coil is usually dark to black and crusty.

I think as they age, the epoxy gets brittle and some of the windings start shorting out causing lower resistance, then they start running hotter and more of the epoxy/insulation gets brittle and more windings short out, until it finally burns out.



Quote:
Originally Posted by gvthnks
Can anyone tell me some electrical specs for an 83 XR350r?

I'm troubleshooting a no fire issue. I'm waiting on a FSM but in the meantime, if you have one and will post the specs it would be most appreciated.

I'm looking for the ignition coil primary and secondary specs in ohms,
pick up coil specs in ohms,
generator specs in ohms.



Thanks

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Old 04-01-2010, 06:23 PM   #84
gvthnks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cynicwanderer
according to clymer

ignition coil
primary 0.2-0.3Ohms
secondary 3.7-4.5kOhms

pulse generator
450-580 Ohms

stator
exciter 50-250 Ohms (xr250r)

I couldn't find specific xr350r stator numbers. if it's hard to start and the spark is weak and you're sure it's not the CDI, pulse coil or ignition coil, then I would suspect the stator. pretty much all of the original stators I have had on my XR/XL bikes from around that time have burned out by now or have really weak output. the ones with really weak output have been low resistance and the ones with no output are open.
The problem is that I have no spark. I think theres an issue with the coil. The high tension wire (spark plug wire), is removeable and the PO replaced it with a car plug wire. I don't have continuity from one end of the plug wire to the other. The cap is good, but the coil cannot pass electricity from point a to b if there's no continuity.

Gonna see if I can replace that wire with a known good one tomorrow and see if that helps.

Hard to hold the meter and kick it over to get an A/C signal off the stator or the trigger coil, but they read OK ohm wise.

Hopefully it's the coil. Supposedly it ran in 06 and has been in storage ever since.

Thanks for the numbers. It's dark outside so I'll check in the morning.
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Old 04-01-2010, 06:35 PM   #85
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if you measure from the cap to one of the two terminals, you should see some resistance (in the kOhms) there is also a resistor the OEM cap/plug. I think the coil is polarity dependent. i.e. green wire to green terminal and black wire to black terminal. some automotive wires have resistance in the wire instead. make sure your meter is set to the kOhm scale (i.e. x100 or x1000).

Quote:
Originally Posted by gvthnks
The problem is that I have no spark. I think theres an issue with the coil. The high tension wire (spark plug wire), is removeable and the PO replaced it with a car plug wire. I don't have continuity from one end of the plug wire to the other. The cap is good, but the coil cannot pass electricity from point a to b if there's no continuity.

Gonna see if I can replace that wire with a known good one tomorrow and see if that helps.

Hard to hold the meter and kick it over to get an A/C signal off the stator or the trigger coil, but they read OK ohm wise.

Hopefully it's the coil. Supposedly it ran in 06 and has been in storage ever since.

Thanks for the numbers. It's dark outside so I'll check in the morning.
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Old 04-01-2010, 06:43 PM   #86
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Thanks again. Using an auto-ranging Fluke.

The cap that was attached was a 5k cap. Seems to me that I could just use a good insulated wire temporarily to check for spark.

I have found a couple of used coils online, but they're wires are likely to be rotted.

Will figure something out.
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09 Kawi KLR 650
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01 Suzuki DRZ-250
96 Honda Shadow
93 Honda XR 80
87 Honda XR250r
83 Honda XR350r
73 Honda XL350
73 CB750
73 Yamaha DT-1

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Old 04-02-2010, 11:17 AM   #87
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well, I tested everything again. Here's what I found:

Getting a signal from the trigger coil,

Stator reads good resistance between poles, but also reads short to ground so it must be bad,

Coil reads about 9k on primary side and exactly the same on secondary. There's also a dead short between posts on the coil, so the coil must be bad too. It's supposed to be very low resistance between poles, but not zero. As the CDI discharged it would go straight to ground instead of through the coil.

Does all of that make sense?
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09 Kawi KLR 650
05 Road Kind Custom
01 Suzuki DRZ-250
96 Honda Shadow
93 Honda XR 80
87 Honda XR250r
83 Honda XR350r
73 Honda XL350
73 CB750
73 Yamaha DT-1

wife calls it a sickness. I'm running a M/C rescue
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Old 04-02-2010, 08:24 PM   #88
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hmm,

the stator has two wires on it one that is black/red (ignition) and either a blue or white wire (lighting). some after market stators will have an extra lead that is green (ground). on the OEM stator, the ground is on the frame.

the resistance between ground and black/red should be 50-250Ohm (it's higher on some aftermarket ones). the lighting coil should be less than one Ohm to ground. if you measure between the leads, then you should see 50-250Ohm, since you're measuring the two coils in series. neither wire should be shorted to ground, unless it's defective.

the ignition/plug coil has two terminals that are green and black. the black is the high side and green is connected to ground. it should be less then an Ohm between the green and black terminal. it will be around 10kOhms from the cap to either the green or the black terminal, if there is a resistor in the cap. without resistor it should be around 5kOhms. green to black is the primary and HV wire to green is the secondary.

are you sure you are measuring a dead short, and not a very low resistance ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by gvthnks
well, I tested everything again. Here's what I found:

Getting a signal from the trigger coil,

Stator reads good resistance between poles, but also reads short to ground so it must be bad,

Coil reads about 9k on primary side and exactly the same on secondary. There's also a dead short between posts on the coil, so the coil must be bad too. It's supposed to be very low resistance between poles, but not zero. As the CDI discharged it would go straight to ground instead of through the coil.

Does all of that make sense?
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Old 04-03-2010, 05:24 AM   #89
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Cry Good buy old friend

I think the heavy clutch pull eventually did me in. But getting a bike with an electric start was nice to. I'll always have fond memories of this bike. bought it for $800 from the original owner. Rode it hard for a year, sold it for $800 yesterday.
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Old 04-03-2010, 05:31 AM   #90
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