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Old 04-03-2010, 06:32 AM   #91
redbastard
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Tahuya

this was a wet one if you can belive it
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Old 04-03-2010, 06:33 AM   #92
redbastard
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one more

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Old 04-03-2010, 10:21 AM   #93
gvthnks
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My coil has one terminal that connects a black/yellow wire, and a ring terminal with green wire that passes through coil mounting tab and anchors coil to frame of bike. From either terminal to end of spark plug wire with cap is 9.5K ohms. OK, reading them again today I get .9 ohms between terminals. Hmmmm.

I also only have two wires coming from stator, black and blue. The trigger coil comes from the right side case and it's wires are green blue. The blue wire must be from a lighting coil as it runs up to where the headlight was once connected and to the tail light. The black/red wire runs to the CDI. Black to ground reads 76 ohms and blue to ground reads 2.1.

So the way I read everything it all checks within spec according to what you've listed. Maybe I have a dirty connection somewhere along the line. I'll check that again later on too.









Quote:
Originally Posted by cynicwanderer
hmm,

the stator has two wires on it one that is black/red (ignition) and either a blue or white wire (lighting). some after market stators will have an extra lead that is green (ground). on the OEM stator, the ground is on the frame.

the resistance between ground and black/red should be 50-250Ohm (it's higher on some aftermarket ones). the lighting coil should be less than one Ohm to ground. if you measure between the leads, then you should see 50-250Ohm, since you're measuring the two coils in series. neither wire should be shorted to ground, unless it's defective.

the ignition/plug coil has two terminals that are green and black. the black is the high side and green is connected to ground. it should be less then an Ohm between the green and black terminal. it will be around 10kOhms from the cap to either the green or the black terminal, if there is a resistor in the cap. without resistor it should be around 5kOhms. green to black is the primary and HV wire to green is the secondary.

are you sure you are measuring a dead short, and not a very low resistance ?
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Old 04-03-2010, 10:40 AM   #94
cynicwanderer
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so, on the coil it should read low (but not short) from the black terminal to ground/green wire (frame) and very high from the black or ground to the plug cap.

and the stator should be low (but not short) from the blue to ground and medium (50-250Ohm) from black to ground.

I would assume the fluke (what I use, too), auto ranges correctly for these measurements if it's on the Ohm setting. it will think the low readings on the coil and stator are shorts on the continuity setting.

you should also check to make sure the kill switch wire isn't shorted to ground somewhere and that the wiring harness is OK.


Quote:
Originally Posted by gvthnks
My coil has one terminal that connects a black/yellow wire, and a ring terminal with green wire that passes through coil mounting tab and anchors coil to frame of bike.

I also only have two wires coming from stator, black and blue. The trigger coil comes from the right side case and it's wires are green blue.



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Old 04-03-2010, 12:23 PM   #95
gvthnks
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I pulled the kill switch apart yesterday as I couldn't disconnect it just to make sure it wasn't shorted. Think later on, I'll go over all the connections and clean them to alleviate that.
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gvthnks screwed with this post 04-03-2010 at 12:29 PM
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Old 04-05-2010, 08:46 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbastard
I think the heavy clutch pull eventually did me in. But getting a bike with an electric start was nice to. I'll always have fond memories of this bike. bought it for $800 from the original owner. Rode it hard for a year, sold it for $800 yesterday.
You should have tried a cable guide. made a big difference on mine.
What did you get?
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Old 05-27-2010, 08:24 PM   #97
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450 exhaust works good!

[IMG][/IMG]

Cut 3" off the midpipe and it fits perfectly. The bends around the frame are perfect. Upper mount is off about 4". I'll span that with some steel strap when I make it permanent. it meets a XR's Only header that is actually larger than the 450 connection. It's a 2 Brothers Racing carbon fiber M7 pipe for a CRF450.[/IMG]
Sound is incredible. Deep bass and pretty darn loud. But not annoying like higher pitched loud pipes. I like the sound better than the CHM on my 400 which I thought was the ultimate until now. I'll get their quiet core for when I dual sport it. Performance wise, it' kicks serious butt. I liked the bike a lot with a drilled endcap 400 pipe on it, but this is a whole nother level. Wow.
Wish I had something to record the sound with.

The CR125 forks are awesome. SO much better for street use than the stockers. Can't wait to get the 17" front wheel built and get the 320mm rotor on it. Then we'll have some stopping power. :)
Now if freaking ALOOP would answer their emails OR phone calls! #%@##$#$#6t


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Old 06-01-2010, 10:47 PM   #98
cynicwanderer
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crank case split

is there any reason why I wouldn't be able to split the crankcase on a '84 xr350r by pulling the left side off ? it comes apart about 1/2" but then seems to get hung up on something. it seems like it wants to come apart on the right side. all I want to fix, is the spring on the shifter shaft, and not take the clutch off, etc... ? do I just need to push the crankshaft out of the bearing ?
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Old 06-02-2010, 12:31 AM   #99
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never mind... the crankshaft didn't want to come out of the bearing, so the whole bearing wanted to come out of the housing, and the countershaft splines were hooking a bit on it's bearing...

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Old 06-03-2010, 02:10 PM   #100
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My brother just picked up an 84 XR350. Dual carb, street version.

The bad...broken valve, gouged head and piston.

Maybe really bad...the cams totally trashed. big wear patterns.

I'm assuming we need a new head. Will anything else interchange?

There may be an oiling problem, considering the cam. Should the cases be split and bearings checked?

Looking for some wisdom and a new head.
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Old 11-13-2010, 09:41 AM   #101
gvthnks
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looks like it's in pretty good shape to me. You may be able to brighten the plastic up some with a very mild polishing compound or even a wax.

I liked my 350. started easily and ran well. Good luck with that one as it looks pretty nice to me.
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Old 11-29-2010, 08:44 PM   #102
kenny61
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I just spied one of these on craigs list. I wanted one of these back in High School. guy claims it only needs front brakes and a side cover. Whats thge deal with parts availability if I wanted to do a restoration.
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Old 11-30-2010, 01:14 AM   #103
letank
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sourdough
Just purchased a 85 xr350r. Needs tires due to cracking sidewalls, whats a good all round tire. Plastic is faded any way to restore the color?
Bike looks good, I have the 83, moded w the xr600 front and rear.

I have used the bike primarily off road and used non dot tires "-Volcanduro-VE-33" they are holding fairly well even on the road. They are now cracked and switching to D606, so it is legal.

My plastic is really faded, but it is sound.

Michel
83XR350
80DR400

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Old 12-01-2010, 08:21 AM   #104
kenny61
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Restoring plastic color/shine...

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=419296
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Old 12-02-2010, 04:47 AM   #105
gvthnks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
Whats thge deal with parts availability if I wanted to do a restoration.

Parts are plentiful. I had no problem finding parts back in the spring for one I had.
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96 Honda Shadow
93 Honda XR 80
87 Honda XR250r
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73 CB750
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wife calls it a sickness. I'm running a M/C rescue
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