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Old 11-25-2007, 10:32 AM   #1
gothamAlp OP
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Location: flagstaff, az
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to hell with turkey, i want fish tacos!

and a dip into the sea of cortez!
and dirt roads!
and the simple pleasures of a coupla days off the grid in mexico.

so off i went.



i crossed a sonoyta, gateway to the gringo playground that is rocky point. and i ended up in puerto lobos, down at the bottom left of this picture, an off-the-grid fishing village about 4 hours south of the border.

[fyi, the pink line, the 'new coastal highway' doesn't exist yet. when it does, it will change everything, and probably not for the better, especially in places like puerto lobos. also, the green 'new paved highway to tucson' from altar to sasabe, aka the smugglers route, doesn't exist yet either.]
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:04 AM   #2
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sonoyta to puerto lobos

thanksgiving day began at a campground in why, az, about thirty miles north of the border.


i intended to turn off mex 8, the road to rocky point, and take a dirt road down to the coast, but i couldn't find the turn-off and ended up going all the way to penasco in order to gas up at a pemex. then i took the road skirting the bay from penasco to caborca. at a border control station in the middle of nowhere, i had a nice conversation with the agent, who asked if we had snow in flagstaff yet and who i in turn asked for a lunch recommendation in caborca.

he sent me to the most excellent la carreta.


the specialty of the house is carne asada. not the fish tacos i'd hoped for but damn good.


then i hit the road to puerto lobos. after about 20 miles, the pavement ends.


a little further it opens up to look like this...


fast & hard-packed sand, where i get my own little paris-dakar on, even catching a little air over the dirt moguls. but i was out in the middle of nowhere, and reminded myself to keep things on the safe side. there were rough stretches as well, and i soon heard something clanging on the bike somewhere. stopped and saw my license plate flapping in the wind. also lost my rear reflector.


this road went on for about 45 miles and took about an hour and a half.


i knew the sea was close when i came up on these hills...


and there it is.


when you live in the northern arizona mountains, you get to really missing the water.


after checking out the little fishing village, i found a few palapas on the northern beach side...


as the day began to wane...


i jumped into the water, which was very temperate, and sent up camp...


having found what i was hoping for.
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:32 AM   #3
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looking good....
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:39 AM   #4
gothamAlp OP
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puerto lobos

daybreak over puerto lobos.


the only other campers on the beach where two couples who had driven down from southern arizona. they were set up in a few palapas further down the beach, and were very generous with their knowledge of the area, and their provisions.




one couple, gary & roberta, had lived in flagstaff for many years so it turned out that we actually had a lot of acquaintances in common. they've been coming down to puerto lobos for years, and had seen dolphins the day before, and whales on previous occasions.

they were very generous with me, sharing their beers around the campfire the previous evening, and coffee and omelettes for breakfast. puerto lobos has a dry goods store and tecate distributor, but that's it, and i'd arrived with only some water and a few power bars. i didn't want to glomm off newly made friends any more, so i decided to close up camp, jump in the water one more time and turn around.

the tide was coming in, and there was some surf. i managed to get a little body-surfing in and then headed back to the beach. as i was walking in, something took a nice bite into my foot. i'd seen some large crabs at low tide the day before, and think it musta been on of them. man, that smarted.

i've been toting around a first aid kit forever, and it finally got put to use.


then i hit the road back to caborca.

here's a mexican cattleguard. careful where you step. and a reminder why you may not want to ride these roads at night.


i'd meant to take a photo of this sign on the way in...


back in caborca, i asked for a place to have all the sand and salt washed off the bike. i was referred to señor vapor.




seems i wasn't the only one asking for their services...


it was early afternoon and i was hungry. i asked one of the carwash guys for the best mariscos in town, and he asked around and then directed me to el terry.


bingo!


tasty fish tacos, check.
happy dirt roads, check.
a dip into the sea of cortez, check.

time to turn around and head for home.
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:43 AM   #5
Hi_Fi_Guy
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Great ride report, thanks for sharing.
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:57 AM   #6
gothamAlp OP
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caborca - home

leaving caborca, i saw that the circus had just pulled into town...


i hate circuses.


this one was called barley -- a contraction of barnum & bailey?


ugh.

then i hit the road to the border, through the beautiful high sonoran desert.


quick crossing at sonoyta and into organ pipe.


this is exactly where i took that first picture against the rising sun heading south...


as to the west, the sun set over mexico -- a country, a place, a state of mind i've grown to love.
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Old 11-25-2007, 12:04 PM   #7
GB
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it sure looks like a great thanksgiving ride!! tacos it is thanks for posting!
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Old 11-25-2007, 12:45 PM   #8
JMead11
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Suddenly that turkey doesn't seem as though it was that good....thanks for the report, I'll have to check some of those places out.
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Old 11-25-2007, 01:07 PM   #9
Groomez
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I freaking love fish tacos... next year I'll be sure to supplement the turkey for an aquatic feast instead. Great post thanks!
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Old 11-25-2007, 01:34 PM   #10
emmettken
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Yea great!! Mmmmmmmm fish tacos.
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Old 11-25-2007, 01:58 PM   #11
Hakatan
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That deserted beach looks like a wonderful antidote to the stuff-yer-face dinners going on north of the border...nicely done.

If I read your report correctly, you only spent one night down south (?) -- what was the round-trip mileage from AZ?
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Old 11-25-2007, 01:59 PM   #12
Nitzo
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Nice report, thanks.


I also hate circuses. And zoos (animal prisons).
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Old 11-25-2007, 02:40 PM   #13
Rogue Scout
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Let's go

So, brave pioneer of all points South. Let me know when you're ready to go again.

I'll be yer Huckleberry.
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Old 11-25-2007, 02:44 PM   #14
thegraydog
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Kid Gotham rides again. Beautiful photography, man.

You didn't mention freezing your digits off getting off the mountain and back up it again?
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Old 11-25-2007, 03:36 PM   #15
Uglyprimate
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Man this sucks, 20 years ago I lived in Flagstaff and never rode south of Sedona.

You've made me hate the midwest even more than I did yesterday.
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