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Old 12-20-2007, 02:20 PM   #16
leonphelps OP
TAT/Prudhoe Bay
 
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: Waterford CT
Oddometer: 1,037
I took the accelerator pump off and cleaned it. The book said don't take the gps off so I didn't. The pup has an adjustment? I'll have to look in the book to see what that was. Any way I can recalibrate the tps without taking it to the dealer? The manual dosent give the procedure.
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Old 12-21-2007, 12:05 PM   #17
leonphelps OP
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So I ripped the carb out again and checked the size of the leak jet, its a 70. I didnt check or see the number on the side when i took it apart. So i am going to get a 40 and try that out. fingers crossed......
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Old 12-23-2007, 08:06 AM   #18
tirebiter
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Are you using a 42 pilot? 2 1/2 turns out is probibly too rich. The bike will bog if the fuel screw's too far out, or too far in. Set the screw at 1 1/4 turns, get it to operating temp then start turning it out.
I've tuned 3 wr250f's over the last few months, here's what I came up with:
172 main, needle 4th clip down, 42 pilot, screw 1 3/4 turns out. Snorkel & small exhaust plug removed, gray wire cut.
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Old 12-28-2007, 10:32 PM   #19
leonphelps OP
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It took me awhile to locate a #40 Leak Jet. Being the holidays it seemed harder to find one. I tried sudco.com but they were closed til Jan 2nd. I shoped several local bike shops, honda, yamaha, kawasaki for FCR-MX carb parts. They had every other jet in stock except the leak jet. So I finally located one from motorcyclecarbs.com for 10 bucks, so its on the way.

If this dosent work then I am just going to buy the Dynojet kit and be done with it. I looked over the PDF specs on their website, so it shouldnt be too tough to figure out. Christ....I have only taken the carb apart a zillion times so far!

So the #4 clip huh?.....I think I'll try #3 for now and see if I like it. I can always take it apart AGAIN and change it.

Thanks everyone for the help.....I luv this place!!
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Old 12-29-2007, 07:53 AM   #20
Marvin_ADV
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Sounds like your original problem may have been the pilot jet/ pilot circuit had crud in it and it wouldn't idle well. Sounds like you fixed that, and you did it the proper way. An FCR carb will bog with a quick turn of the throttle with no load on it, very normal. Are you doing this in the garage or while it is just sitting? Go ride it and see if it bogs on a quick throttle turn while riding, shouldn't bog as it needs a load. If you wan't to change the squirt duration of the accelerator pump you can, do a search on TT in the WR forum. Good luck!
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Old 12-29-2007, 11:30 AM   #21
leonphelps OP
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Yea, I was sitting in the driveway, I let it idle for about 5 minutes to get it warmed up. Then tried bliping it, and it would stall out. I could open it slowley and it would be ok. Before I cleaned the carb and took it apart completely, it would stall or bog on the trail when I wacked it full open. The bike would pop start itself while rooling stall and just stop.

But hey I have electric start!!

The other thing I want to do is trim the throttle stop from 20mm to 18.3. I dont think I can get the .3 but say in the general area. When I was reading the Dynojet web site on the stage 2 kit thats what they were doing. I read some other posts over at thumpertalk about doing it also.
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Old 01-04-2008, 02:45 PM   #22
leonphelps OP
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Ok, now I am getting pissy.....

Put the #40 leak jet it, works good, no more bog. But.....now I cant get it to idle. It will only idle with the choke pulled out. I've been chasing the settings around, with regards to air/fuel mixture knob. So what I think I am going to do now is remove the carb AGAIN and move the needle clip to the #3 position.

Here's what i have for the settings:

175 Main jet
40 Leak jet
Needle is at #4 clip
Pilot #42
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Old 01-04-2008, 03:00 PM   #23
Rusty Rocket
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Idle mixture is controlled by the pilot jet and the pilot air screw. Moving the needle isn't the answer. Play with the adjustable air screw. Start at 1.5 turns out from full closed. you may have to get a new pilot jet. It is pretty cold here in CT now and things tend to run a bit leaner when it's cold.
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Old 01-04-2008, 06:32 PM   #24
leonphelps OP
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I remember when I first took the carb out it was at 3 1/2 turns out. I was trying the settings at 1 turn to 2 1/2 area. But 3 1/2 seems alot. Other people here on AFF suggested 1.5 to 1.75 turns out.

I think I'll try 3 1/2 tomorrow and see how that does before I remove the carb AGAIN and move the clip.
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Old 01-04-2008, 09:42 PM   #25
spidennis
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You have the "bog"! and as recommended in a earlier post, head over to ThumperTalk and do a search. There are several ways, and add ons to cure the dreaded "bog". You'd think that the factory would do something about this huh? Anyway the tt guys can help!
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Old 01-05-2008, 12:10 AM   #26
leonphelps OP
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Yea i just posted over there, after i did a search to see what everyone is doing with their bikes....
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:10 PM   #27
chevaliernoir
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Location: Toulouse (France)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leonphelps View Post
I remember when I first took the carb out it was at 3 1/2 turns out. I was trying the settings at 1 turn to 2 1/2 area. But 3 1/2 seems alot. Other people here on AFF suggested 1.5 to 1.75 turns out.

I think I'll try 3 1/2 tomorrow and see how that does before I remove the carb AGAIN and move the clip.
I had exacly the same, even the 3 1/2 turn to be OK.
Finally, just disconnecting the TPS sensor made the bike very very smooth, and I came back to less than 2 turns to have a perfect behaviour.
I'm like this now.
The bike is from 2003, but with same wonderfull carb, and awfull TPS sensor
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