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Old 06-11-2010, 08:19 PM   #691
Gambit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcls
Thanks Gambit. Which connector are you referring to, the original H11 from the BMW aux light harness, or...?
Marc
Change either end of the harness supplied with the HID kit.
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Old 06-12-2010, 11:44 AM   #692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gambit
Change either end of the harness supplied with the HID kit.
Thanks Gambit.
Marc
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Old 06-15-2010, 06:12 AM   #693
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Which 'color' of bulbs throw out the brightest beam? I am interested in missing as many furry targets as possible on a planned ride through NE AZ this Sat.
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Old 06-15-2010, 06:20 AM   #694
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There are different opinions on this, but sientifically it will be the lower numbers. More yellow is generally better, up to a point.

4300, or near, is the most natural light, and though some will claim it is too yellow, the brighter white/blue light can be actually worse.

http://orca.st.usm.edu/~jmneal/tiburon/hids.htm

and

http://www.blindinghid.com/hid-colors/

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Old 06-15-2010, 07:02 AM   #695
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Anyone ever replace just the bulb in a DDM HID kit? Looks like a sealed unit.

D
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Old 06-18-2010, 03:39 PM   #696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeinSA
Well, I just switched my high, low and factory fog lights to HID on my '09 GSA. I can't believe the difference. As someone else said, it's almost scary now that you can see what you've been missing. I'll do this on every bike I have from now on, it's an unbelievable difference. I live off a dark, twisty, rural road. The drive in the dark is much, much easier with the HID's.

The whole switch took maybe three hours. I thought it was pretty easy, and I didn't take the windshield, instrument cluster or any body work off. Here's what I ordered from DDM:



I used a 7/8" bit to drill out the caps. One of the plugs that has to pass through the hole is too big, so as was previously mentioned, you'll need to notch out the sides of the hole a bit with a Dremel tool. I thought the hardest part of the installation was strapping the ballasts to the light bar, and then organizing all of the wires. Here's a picture of my ballasts:



I'm happy with the bulb color. It's pretty much pure white. I think if you went up any higher on the color you'd start seeing blue.


Edit: No Lamp Failure light, everything works fine. And the warmup on the high beam isn't a big deal at all. Flashing the high beams works fine.
I just ordered the same setup. I'm stoked! I've always been disappointed with the light output at night. I'm hoping this solves that issue. Thanx for all the info!
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Old 06-21-2010, 04:30 PM   #697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobStar
Damn... I'm not sure which thread is the most confusing and all over the place; this one or tires!

Vendors:

DDM: TONs of ugly cust service complaints on the Bimmer forum and a few here. No one answers the phone when I call either location.

VVME: Customs issues?

XenonRider.com: Looks like they're focused on motorcycles and at least address the light fault issue. What about customer service?


CANBUS / Light Fault:

Seems to be hit and miss but more hit than miss. ESA option related? It would be great if those who report problem or no-problem would be more specific to their bike year / options.

XenonRider.com is the only vendor I can find who acknowledges it at all.

Anyone WITH ESA on a 2009 / 2010 NOT having this issue or is it completely related to waiting for the OBC to go through it's paces?


Slim -vs- Regular Ballast:

Slim sounds like the best for mounting but someone implied in a post that the light fault issue could be related to the slim ballasts? Is there a definitive answer on this?


Installation and Mounting:

Bulb install looks like cake. It looks like a few inmates have come up with nice clean mounting options but I'm not sure how well nylon zip-ties are going to hold up in places like Death Valley at 50+mph on 70 mile stretches of washboard that will shake your teeth out?


Switching / On-Off Options:

Not too much here about that. I pretty much run my highbeam and PIAAs all the time to ward-off our 24 hr day drunk driver problem in Las Vegas but I at least take care to aim low.

Anyone running HID Conversion kits in the PIAAs?

What are the options for switching secondary lighting such as PIAA lights?


2010 R2100GS Installations:

Anyone here do a 2010 with ESA yet?

Thanks to everyone for the complete brain fry today!



RobStar
In regards to DDM, they did take a while to ship out my lights (delivered around two weeks, maybe a day or two shy of that from when I placed the order). But, everything arrived as promised. I even called them once to check on it, I had to wait on hold for around 5 or 10 minutes, but they were really courteous and helpful (I called to see why my order was taking so long to ship. I ordered the 55W 5000K bulb motorcycle kit, paid 49.95 after shipping.

I finally got around to installing the lights last night, all I can say is WOW! They work great, I love the 5000K color brightness. It did take me a few minutes trying to figure how to remove the protective case and the H7 adapter (I guess some automotive applications need it, it slides on the base of the bulb assembly). I just pulled out some wire cutters and cut it off (per the instructions on their website). I still need to mount the ballasts and clean up the wiring, but I did hook them to test them out prior to doing all the busy work. I would definitely order from DDM again, super happy so far. No error codes, but I always let my bike do its little “boot-up” sequence before firing her up. They have great write-ups on DDM website for installation, tons of info on there.

I would order a kit for my car too if it didn’t already have factory HIDs.
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Old 06-22-2010, 07:52 PM   #698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splat matt
Ok I have finally installed my HID kit (35w vvme 4300K) Here are some pics of the brackets I made from 1/8" aluminum stock 5.25" long x 1.5" wide. I made my bends in a bench-top vise and hammer each bend is at 1.375"

I used outdoor 3M double-sided tape (supports up 5lbs) to hold ballasts to the brackets. If the ballasts ever detached there should be enough obstruction to prevent them from falling into the forks and hinder the steering. I also placed double-sided tape to the oil brackets so my bracket would not vibrate against it. I also made sure the ballasts would not rub on any oil lines.

Once I attached the ballasts I used clamps to hold them tight for about an hour and also prepared the surface using alcohol. Also the 3M indoor/outdoor mounting tape (4011) can maintain it's adhesion properties in this temperature range: -31° F to 200° F (-35° C to 93.3° C) [source: 3M Products Division]


UPDATE:
OK It has been a week and 1600+ miles riding in temps of 36°F to 89°F and the install of the ballasts remains solid. The mounts don't visually vibrate and remain tight in place. The ballasts are still fixed and there are no signs of them detaching. IMHO this is the fastest, simplest, cheapest and aesthetically minimalistic mount without sacrifice to durability one can do for the ballasts.


Feb 18, 2010 UPDATE:
3 Months shy of a year & still no problems. Adhesion is still like new and no signs of separation due to age or wear




The mount installed in this manner is strong and does not spin or rub against other metal or hoses (even under rough road vibrations)




The ballasts installed in this location allows them to remain hidden and if the tape's adhesion should ever separate (from the mount and ballast) the ballast is prevented from falling into the forks by obstruction of the bracket and existing components (accidents are bad).
My disclaimer: If you choose to mount your ballast this way I'm not responsible for any problems, accidents or the like. I'm just showing you what I did and what is working for me currently. If it fails I'll post an update.



Very nice. I just installed your fabrication on my GS12. Only had to mount the left ballast on the inside to clear an aux plug the previous owner installed in the faring, but works like a charm. One 'improvement'. I drilled a couple of holes under the ballast in the mount so zip ties can be used to add some redundancy. Pics to follow.

Thanks again.

S
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Old 06-22-2010, 08:25 PM   #699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockitdoc
Very nice. I just installed your fabrication on my GS12. Only had to mount the left ballast on the inside to clear an aux plug the previous owner installed in the faring, but works like a charm. One 'improvement'. I drilled a couple of holes under the ballast in the mount so zip ties can be used to add some redundancy. Pics to follow.

Thanks again.

S
Cool! FYI my mount is still working fine and I have been in temps of 90+ with 80% and higher humidity. No adjustment or remounting needed!


Matt
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Old 06-22-2010, 09:16 PM   #700
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HID or H7 65W

Im too worried about faults and dont like the specific starting sequences required and i use my pass to flash all the time to wart off merging traffic. Can I just put regular H7 65 or 70 W bulbs in there or will they cause an overload or faults.
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Old 06-22-2010, 09:32 PM   #701
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After a nightmare order from DDM, I got the slim ballasts fitted, you can fit 2 on top of the bar and 2 under. I love the brackets some of you are making but whatever you do, just get some extra light out there. I had a great comment from a fellow biker the other day, he said "I looked in the mirror and thought a 747 was about to land behind me". Considering we had 2 guys killed near my hometown this weekend due to inattentive drivers, I consider it a compliment. I had the 35w in the fogs and 50w in the mains, both at 4500. It's a perfect crisp white and upgraded the fogs after finding the mixed color of light at night a distraction. Here they are for the hell of it:

You may note I've utilized the earth on the units, I ran a wire (the black wire under the units) to the little unused earthing screw hole on the ballasts and linked the lot to the bike, as they are insulated when put on the sticky pad. NO lampf probs so far.
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Old 06-23-2010, 05:17 PM   #702
rockitdoc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockitdoc
Very nice. I just installed your fabrication on my GS12. Only had to mount the left ballast on the inside to clear an aux plug the previous owner installed in the faring, but works like a charm. One 'improvement'. I drilled a couple of holes under the ballast in the mount so zip ties can be used to add some redundancy. Pics to follow.

Thanks again.

S
Well, I got my HID Xenons installed. Took some fabrication (ala Splattmatt) but it works. No faults. However, when I compared them to the H7 bulbs that were in there before, I am a bit disappointed. Maybe it's the way I ran my test, but I guess I was expecting something a lot brighter for the nearly $200 I layed down. Here is the comparo, shot at my garage wall with the door closed. It's a two-car with the bike up against the wall on one side shooting at the other wall.

H7 Bulb -Low Beam


H7 Bulb-Hi Beam



HID Xenon -Low


HID Xenon-Hi



Maybe I'll notice more of a difference on the road, but based on this, I wouldn't spend the money or the time. I think the H7 bulb on high is actually brighter than the xenon hi beam. What do you think?

I'll start another thread showing the install, but it was pretty much like Splattmatt.

S
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Old 06-23-2010, 05:27 PM   #703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockitdoc
Well, I got my HID Xenons installed. Took some fabrication (ala Splattmatt) but it works. No faults. However, when I compared them to the H7 bulbs that were in there before, I am a bit disappointed. Maybe it's the way I ran my test, but I guess I was expecting something a lot brighter for the nearly $200 I layed down. Here is the comparo, shot at my garage wall with the door closed. It's a two-car with the bike up against the wall on one side shooting at the other wall.

H7 Bulb -Low Beam


H7 Bulb-Hi Beam



HID Xenon -Low


HID Xenon-Hi



Maybe I'll notice more of a difference on the road, but based on this, I wouldn't spend the money or the time. I think the H7 bulb on high is actually brighter than the xenon hi beam. What do you think?

I'll start another thread showing the install, but it was pretty much like Splattmatt.

S
Here's the install in pics:

HID inserted in socket wires not connected, yet


Dust cap with 1" hole cut


Dust cap with harness coming out the back


Right side fabricated just like Splattmatt


Left side 'adjusted' to clear 12v outlet in faring-Ballast had to be positioned on the inside of the bracket


From the cockpit-Notice left ballast is more the center of the bike in order to clear the 12v socket-It's tight!
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Old 06-23-2010, 06:13 PM   #704
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Your camera's auto-exposure is tricking you

Quote:
Originally Posted by rockitdoc
Well, I got my HID Xenons installed. Took some fabrication (ala Splattmatt) but it works. No faults. However, when I compared them to the H7 bulbs that were in there before, I am a bit disappointed. Maybe it's the way I ran my test, but I guess I was expecting something a lot brighter for the nearly $200 I layed down. Here is the comparo, shot at my garage wall with the door closed. It's a two-car with the bike up against the wall on one side shooting at the other wall.

H7 Bulb -Low Beam


H7 Bulb-Hi Beam



HID Xenon -Low


HID Xenon-Hi



Maybe I'll notice more of a difference on the road, but based on this, I wouldn't spend the money or the time. I think the H7 bulb on high is actually brighter than the xenon hi beam. What do you think?

I'll start another thread showing the install, but it was pretty much like Splattmatt.

S
Your camera shortens the exposure time for the brighter scene. You can see this by looking at the portion of the picture inside your garage. FOr the HID photo, this appears much darker. This means your camera exposed this photo less, trying to make both scenes about the same brightness. If you really want to compare, you would need to manually set your camera exposure and make sure it was the same for both pictures.
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Old 06-23-2010, 06:54 PM   #705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhumphrey
Your camera shortens the exposure time for the brighter scene. You can see this by looking at the portion of the picture inside your garage. FOr the HID photo, this appears much darker. This means your camera exposed this photo less, trying to make both scenes about the same brightness. If you really want to compare, you would need to manually set your camera exposure and make sure it was the same for both pictures.
You are correct, of course. I wish I had thought of that before doing the test. I will re-do it tomorrow at the same shutter speed and f-stop for both.
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