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Old 06-25-2010, 02:15 PM   #706
RobStar
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Location: Las Vegas Baby!
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I have to say I'm a little skeptical about DDM Tuning's service / delivery but they answered the phone today and answered my questions that everything I want is in stock.

I ordered the 55w H7 4500k kit for my hi / low beams and the 35w H3 4500k kit to convert my PIAA 510 ATP lights as well. They suggested the 4500 in both 55w and 35w will match up since there's no color added.

If all goes well BMW Flight R1200GS will be landing soon in a Las Vegas rear view mirror. "Home of the 24/7 Drunk Driver and Lost Tourist"

Service / delivery reports and install details will follow.

Thanks to everyone for their help and information.

RobStar
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Old 06-30-2010, 12:21 AM   #707
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My DDM kit just arrived. I ordered the 55W H7 kit for the high/low beams, and the 35W H11 for the running lights. I called 3 times to verify the right angle connectors for the H11s, and was told the H11 are all right angles.

I need some good close-up pictures of the running light installation - there is no way the ones I received are right angle connectors.

Definitely not the plug and play I was hoping for, the more I look at everything, and review this thread, the more confused I get.

And I did HID and PIAA 510s on the Buell.

Thanks.
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Old 06-30-2010, 04:58 AM   #708
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Florida Lime
My DDM kit just arrived. I ordered the 55W H7 kit for the high/low beams, and the 35W H11 for the running lights. I called 3 times to verify the right angle connectors for the H11s, and was told the H11 are all right angles.

I need some good close-up pictures of the running light installation - there is no way the ones I received are right angle connectors.

Definitely not the plug and play I was hoping for, the more I look at everything, and review this thread, the more confused I get.

And I did HID and PIAA 510s on the Buell.

Thanks.
Your problem is what you ordered. Order the H7 35 watt kit and be done with it. Look at the original post.

Jim
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Old 06-30-2010, 06:44 AM   #709
Florida Lime
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden
Your problem is what you ordered. Order the H7 35 watt kit and be done with it. Look at the original post.

Jim
Strange, I must have missed the part in the original post where you did the Aux. lights with a 35W H7 kit.
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Florida Lime screwed with this post 06-30-2010 at 07:12 AM
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Old 06-30-2010, 06:45 AM   #710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Florida Lime
Strange, I must have missed the part in the original post where you did the running lights with a 35W H7 kit.
Sorry, didn't.

Jim

PS The GSA doesn't have running lights. It has Aux lights.
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Old 06-30-2010, 10:45 AM   #711
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Florida Lime
I need some good close-up pictures of the running light installation - there is no way the ones I received are right angle connectors.

Definitely not the plug and play I was hoping for, the more I look at everything, and review this thread, the more confused I get.
Sounds like this is for the GSA factory fogs? If they did not send you the 90degree connectors call them and have them send out 90 degree connectors or you will need to drill out the back of the light housing. Same problem I had but I called and bitched and got a hold of the owner, he sent out replacement bulbs at his cost and I returned the incorrect ones and it all works out fine.

Good luck
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Old 06-30-2010, 10:55 AM   #712
Florida Lime
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSguy
Sounds like this is for the GSA factory fogs? If they did not send you the 90degree connectors call them and have them send out 90 degree connectors or you will need to drill out the back of the light housing. Same problem I had but I called and bitched and got a hold of the owner, he sent out replacement bulbs at his cost and I returned the incorrect ones and it all works out fine.

Good luck
Yes, the factory fog lights, auxillary lights, additional lighting (as my manual calls them)
I called twice, once BEFORE I ordered, and once AFTER to specify the right angle connectors. The 2nd call I was told "Who told you you have to specify ?- All we have in the H11 are right angle connectors !"

So what do I get ?-- straight connectors.

I called this morning at 9 am (Ca. time), and supposedly they are sending out the correct ones.

Of course, I'm leaving Friday for N.C., so that won't help me now. Hopefully I'll get things sorted when I get back.

I'm sure I'll have more questions at that time.
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Old 06-30-2010, 02:06 PM   #713
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It's kind of funny that they told you they are all 90 degree, when my strait connector bulbs showed up I called and they said that all of them are strait I had them refer to there DDM Bulb reference guide and the only option they show was a 90 degree. When I pointed that out the guy I was talking to go all bent out of shape, I asked him to go look and see if they have 90 degree in stock so he did and they did, then he told me if I wanted them I would have to pay the cost of bulbs and shipping Said no way want to speak to manager. The owner then got on the phone and went thru all this all over again with him telling me they do not make 90 degree connectors, told him to pull some off the shelf and look, guess what he opened the box and there were 90 degree connectors. He spent about 30 seconds trying to change my mind and have me hog out the back of the light housing to accept them and when I told him I would just return all the kits I bought he then steped up to exchange, he covered shipping to me and getting the old ones back. Keep in mind when he shipped them he shipped them 2nd day air and I had them two days after hanging up the phone.

If these guys could get there act strait they could make a bunch of cash but....... In the end, I would buy from them again.
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Old 07-01-2010, 10:50 PM   #714
RobStar
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Ordered my DDMs on Thursday and they arrived Tuesday. Plain white box type items but everything is here and they all test fired.

Installation next week... with photos!

RobStar
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Old 07-22-2010, 05:53 PM   #715
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Update: I waited 3 weeks, trying not to be the irate customer.

I tried emailing DDM, but all emails were returned as "we don't check this email anymore" type replies. I called, but the phone message went straight to a "leave your number and we'll get back to you" reply.
Later that day, I received an email saying that sending out replacement bulbs (due to their error ) was not their policy, and it wasn't marked on my invoice that I had called.

They sent me all the numbers and addresses I need to return the straight connector bulbs for the right angle bulbs - just be sure to include my credit card information in the return package so that they can bill me for shipping !! I'm having a problem paying for shipping BOTH ways for their mistake.

I've got things all boxed up, but I won't send it out until I talk to someone about all this BS. Guess it's time to ask for the boss.
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Old 07-26-2010, 02:12 PM   #716
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Since it was obvious the I wasn't going to have the correct H11 bulbs for a while, I decided to install just the 55W H7 bulbs in the low and high beams. (I had hoped to do them all at once to get a cleaner installation, but so much for that.)

A bit of a PITA routing everything (my hands are TOO big ), but several other inmates pictures helped. A lot.

Tested it, and all seemed OK, then waited until nightime to test things out. Turns out there is a bad igniter on the high beam side - it will only "spark" the light, but it wouldn't stay lit. I switched out the 35W ballast/igniter unit from my now unused fog light set, and it worked fine. Switched back to the 55W set, and it worked ! Until I let it cool down, and tried to fire the high beam up cold.
Again, just spark, and of course LAMPF!

I called DDM, did the usual wait for someone to pick up (14 minutes) then asked for the supervisor, and waited some more.

The H11 straight connectors are now headed back, along with one 55W ballast/igniter unit. I put the 35W unit in on the high beam side for now; I'll see how it works tonight after work.
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Old 08-23-2010, 11:28 PM   #717
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Lots of methods, but I haven't seen my path down the bright tunnel, so here goes . . .

OK, so after pondering and planning about the eternal question: how do I upgrade to HID without causing obvious modification to the bike, I finally said, “screw it – just get the kit and figure it out from there.”
Goals: 1. upgrade the Hi/Low and aux lites for a paint-blistering supernova of conspicuity.
2. Oh yea, I wanted more light at night, too.
3. I did not want to drill holes in my bike and wanted to keep it as de-mod-able as possible.
4. Preserve the OEM look.
So I ordered the VVME with slim ballasts kits (2) and set to work with a squidly modder of his own pimped-out Honda (Thanks Russell – your practical know-how and wrenching skilz were invaluable).
After quite a bit of ballast holding, handlebar turning, and wire measuring, I decided the best solution would be to attach the ballasts in between the downtubes to the side of the, uh, mechanical – thing – jutting out (ABS?). It has a bracket that should be removable . . . yes, yes, I can see the bolts. OK, we’re fine.
So we removed all of the front plastic and intrument cluster, and fought for enough room to get the bracket off. After much swearing and finger torture, we got the bastige off.
To design it, I took a piece of cardboard and set the ballasts on it in a way that apperared aesthetically acceptable to me (suitable symmetry and all). Then I took the cardboard and adapted it to the bracket, cut it out as a template.
Well, now that the theoretical part is done, how to make this a reality? We are not privileged to have a machine shop available, so do we had
Aluminum was chosen for its workability, and Russel came up with the idea of an aluminum bender, which we rented from Home Depot.
Apply tin snips, files, bender machine, and a pair of brackets emerged to carry the ballasts. They were attached with a firm spacer to allow for some air flow and a cross-bar to keep them parallel.



Afraid I don’t have the mount by itself.
Re-placing the whole thing was another chore (read: more finger abuse) wait – that doesn’t sound right…
It was bee-u-ti-ful. Then, I turned the handlebar , contact – FAIL – oh, crap, now what?
After teams of highly paid engineers carefully analyzed the problem, it was discovered that by squeezing the leading edge a few millimeters toward the midline of the bike, the bars turned freely. Yay! All is not lost. Now, just bending the bar would offend the aesthetics of the project, so we contemplated making a new cross-member. On a lark, the supplied mount hardware was tried, and it fit perfectly!
The cables were routed to hide them as much as possible and secured with zipties as required.


and from above:


I purchased cloth tape from the BMW dealer and wrapped the wires to make a more OEM look.

I didn’t cover the prep of the lights because it has been covered previously.
So far, it has worked pretty well. I have increasingly gotten LAMPF! Warnings and am investigating either adding the resister plug-in or replacing the unit with a 55w unit for the headlamp. The aux lights have worked very well.
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Old 08-24-2010, 05:20 AM   #718
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An update on my experience with the VVME digital ballast set up....4700 miles with no issues. No LAMPF.

Are you guys having grounding issues? My ballasts are insulated from the light bar with body molding tape.

my mounting pics are page 45
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Old 09-18-2010, 03:03 PM   #719
Norhasken
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Just did this on my '07 with the VVME 35 watt large ballast H7 kit. Pretty much plug and play. No LAMPF errors in 300 miles and multiple startups today.

Just did the low beam. Attached the bracket to the oil cooler attachment that Jim used, seems a bit tight in that the triple tree down tube hits one of the connectors when near full lock on a right hand turn and external right hand side plastic panel makes contact with the ballast on the other side where he BMW badge opening attaches to beak. It just seems there isn't enough width on my bike for the large ballast.

Love the light, was great for starting out in the dark today.

Guess I may try a slim ballast later this year.
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Old 09-22-2010, 11:40 AM   #720
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Thumb

Quote:
Originally Posted by rockitdoc
Here's the install in pics:

HID inserted in socket wires not connected, yet


Dust cap with 1" hole cut


Dust cap with harness coming out the back


Right side fabricated just like Splattmatt


Left side 'adjusted' to clear 12v outlet in faring-Ballast had to be positioned on the inside of the bracket


From the cockpit-Notice left ballast is more the center of the bike in order to clear the 12v socket-It's tight!
Nice install!
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