New '07 Triumph Tiger - Initial Impressions

[ducnut]

Originally Posted by wanabe

Wow! that is cheap . . . i think ohlins rear suspension cost around $1,100.00 just for the part

I am 6'3" and tip the scales at 235 . . . so I know what you mean about "bottoming" out suspension . . . I was really hammering the other day on a country road with some bumps and twists . . . that bik gets a little looser than it should! I have to admit, its a little dissapointing

You can get a custom-built Penske 8983 from hordpower.com for $775. Just call JD for a Tiger application. The Penske is every bit of what an Ohlins is and more than a rebuilt OEM could ever be. You can look here if you want to see one mounted.

[Adventure_R]

Hey all, I received my BoosterPlug from Jens yesterday. I installed it tonight, and thought I would post some pictures. I didn't get a chance to test it out tonight, but I'll do that tomorrow.

I did some reading on how others mounted their unit, and there seemed to be a lot of concern over drilling a 1/4" hole in the Airbox. I didn't see this as an issue, so out came the Drill and some parts. I decided to mount the Temperature Probe right next to the original one, as this seemed to be the optimal location per Jens. I drilled a 1/4" hole in the flat area next to the stock probe. I then opened up the hole with a reamer, until the Grommet was a very tight fit. I trimmed one edge of the grommet to allow for clearance.



Inside the Airbox, with the Temp Sensor inserted. I did not use any sealant, as the fit was very tight, per plan.


Exterior of the Airbox with Temp Sensor inserted.


The first mounting setup I tried wasn't allowing the Tank to sit correctly, so I had to change it. Here is the final setup.


I used some high strength Velco to mount the black box, then used cable ties to clean the wiring up and secure the Temp Probe to the 2-Pin Connector body.




Start to finish took me about 2 hours, but only because I was trying to make it look perfect. I have no concerns about dirt leaking past the Temp Probe seal. I had these already in the garage, but you can pick them up at most Auto and Hardware stores.

[2000tj]

I think you'll be happy with the results from your Booster Plug. The snatchy throttle on my Tiger was reduced by at least 80-90 percent. I'm pretty confident I can tame the rest by either dropping on a new map or putting the snorkel back in. For now I'm extremely happy, especially for the initial group buy price.

[bomber60015]

Well -- if it's not one thing . . . . . ;-}

Got about 50 miles on the bike since replacing the stator and r/r -- the good news is that it's making lots of electricity, and said electricity seems to be going whenre it should.

But, while out a lunch today, upon restarting, the check engine light is on -- everything seems to be working jsut fine, but the light is one.

So, I've already ordered a Dealer Tool, but, since it comes from Merry Olde, it isn't gonna be here tomorrow (or the next day, I"ll wager) . . . .

I know on some bikes, and intricate series of ignition key operations (plus holding your tongue on the left side of your mouth) will get the display to flash -- the flashes can be interpreted (like Morse Code), and, sometimes, a fix can be determined.

Any such procedure one can do for a Tiger?

thanks, all!

[wiseblood]

Originally Posted by bomber60015

So, I've already ordered a Dealer Tool, but, since it comes from Merry Olde, it isn't gonna be here tomorrow (or the next day, I"ll wager) . . . .

I know on some bikes, and intricate series of ignition key operations (plus holding your tongue on the left side of your mouth) will get the display to flash -- the flashes can be interpreted (like Morse Code), and, sometimes, a fix can be determined.

Any such procedure one can do for a Tiger?

Aside from the dealer tool, the only procedure I know of which will work is to invert your wallet into the dealer's register.

[The Jerk]

Yeah the modern systems don't have blink codes - you need the scan tool. The good news is that if it's running fine, there's no worry about continuing to ride it while awaiting your DealerTool.

If the problem that caused the light to come on goes away on its own, the light will eventually go out after a few ignition cycles but the code will remain stored in memory so you can read it with the tool later.

[bomber60015]

Thanks, gents -- since it was running fine before the light came on, and seems to be doing the same after, I'll try reseating any connectors I may have messed with during the stator & r/r removal/replacement --

sigh -- I am beginning to miss my Bonneville. My 1969 Bonneville ;-}

[atlthrux]

I was trying to reset my Tiger clock & just started trying different button combinations. If I hold down 1 & 3, my display says 'Tacho' & then one of the buttons (can't remember which) makes the tach needle move from 2k to the max position. What's that 'feature'? Maybe there are others like that???

Originally Posted by bomber60015

Well -- if it's not one thing . . . . . ;-}

....I know on some bikes, and intricate series of ignition key operations (plus holding your tongue on the left side of your mouth) will get the display to flash -- the flashes can be interpreted (like Morse Code), and, sometimes, a fix can be determined.

Any such procedure one can do for a Tiger?

thanks, all!

[The Jerk]

Originally Posted by atlthrux

I was trying to reset my Tiger clock & just started trying different button combinations. If I hold down 1 & 3, my display says 'Tacho' & then one of the buttons (can't remember which) makes the tach needle move from 2k to the max position. What's that 'feature'? Maybe there are others like that???

Instrument testing procedure.

[bomber60015]

OK -- I got home last night (bike was running very nicely, thankyouverymuch), and sat down to think . . . .
I saw some wahr hanging down on the right side of the bike, from behind the forward tupperware --
Long story merciful, to get to the stator and r/r connectors, I removed all the tupperware forward of the leading edge of the seat -- if the stator to r/r lead had not been routed through Hoboken and thence to Kookamonga, said removal would not have been necessary.
But I digress.
I had, several summer ago, installed an SAE connector to the GPS lead that Triumph thoughtfully provided . . . works great, connects and disconnects easily, and has worked peachily through a number of frog-stranglers . . . . .
Several inches upstream from the SAE connector (for the GPS, remember?) I installed a couple of leads to power a cigar lighter installed on the right-hand fashia -- I use this socket to power my air pump (when necessary) and my old, POS, cheap Microwave Oven Detector.
I CLAIMS to detect the radar the constabulary uses, but it does a better job of pointing our every 7-11, hotel kitchen and pizza joint -- in fact, it does a superlative job of this -- witness that fact that I have never, not even once, received a citation from a pizza joint.
Digressing.
In reassembling the scoot (I was excited over having reintroduced electrical generation to the bike's repertoire), I neglected to reconnect the lead to the cigar lighter.
One of the lead (the positive one) would contact the right fork leg momentarily, cause the ECU to throw the famous "WTF" code.
I've connected the wahrs properly, and done 2 outa the three "heat her up cool her down" cycles required to reset the Check Engine Light (can anyone tell me why, on the speedoface of a Triumph motorcycle, with, you know, the Triumph logo on it, so one might think it was made specially for Triumph, the Check Engine Light is indicated by the outline a a V8 engine?).
I am confident, when the ice melts from off the front of the Entropy Lab, another "heat her up cool her down" cycle will clear the fault.
This is called "Operator Headspace."
I am covered in ribbons of shame.
Thank you for your support.

[bross]

Originally Posted by bomber60015

OK -- I got home last night (bike was running very nicely, thankyouverymuch), and sat down to think . . . .
I saw some wahr hanging down on the right side of the bike, from behind the forward tupperware --
Long story merciful, to get to the stator and r/r connectors, I removed all the tupperware forward of the leading edge of the seat -- if the stator to r/r lead had not been routed through Hoboken and thence to Kookamonga, said removal would not have been necessary.
But I digress.
I had, several summer ago, installed an SAE connector to the GPS lead that Triumph thoughtfully provided . . . works great, connects and disconnects easily, and has worked peachily through a number of frog-stranglers . . . . .
Several inches upstream from the SAE connector (for the GPS, remember?) I installed a couple of leads to power a cigar lighter installed on the right-hand fashia -- I use this socket to power my air pump (when necessary) and my old, POS, cheap Microwave Oven Detector.
I CLAIMS to detect the radar the constabulary uses, but it does a better job of pointing our every 7-11, hotel kitchen and pizza joint -- in fact, it does a superlative job of this -- witness that fact that I have never, not even once, received a citation from a pizza joint.
Digressing.
In reassembling the scoot (I was excited over having reintroduced electrical generation to the bike's repertoire), I neglected to reconnect the lead to the cigar lighter.
One of the lead (the positive one) would contact the right fork leg momentarily, cause the ECU to throw the famous "WTF" code.
I've connected the wahrs properly, and done 2 outa the three "heat her up cool her down" cycles required to reset the Check Engine Light (can anyone tell me why, on the speedoface of a Triumph motorcycle, with, you know, the Triumph logo on it, so one might think it was made specially for Triumph, the Check Engine Light is indicated by the outline a a V8 engine?).
I am confident, when the ice melts from off the front of the Entropy Lab, another "heat her up cool her down" cycle will clear the fault.
This is called "Operator Headspace."
I am covered in ribbons of shame.
Thank you for your support.

Nice little story, glad you figured it out.

[wanabe]

Originally Posted by ducnut

You can get a custom-built Penske 8983 from hordpower.com for $775. Just call JD for a Tiger application. The Penske is every bit of what an Ohlins is and more than a rebuilt OEM could ever be. You can look here if you want to see one mounted.

ducnut . . . went to that website but didnt see anything about tiger suspension

[ducnut]

Originally Posted by wanabe

ducnut . . . went to that website but didnt see anything about tiger suspension

Originally Posted by ducnut

You can get a custom-built Penske 8983 from hordpower.com for $775. Just call JD for a Tiger application. The Penske is every bit of what an Ohlins is and more than a rebuilt OEM could ever be. You can look here if you want to see one mounted.

^^^ You'll have to call him.

Hey bomber60015, I see the Triumph truck will be at MCC, May 28 & 29.

[bomber60015]

Originally Posted by ducnut

Hey bomber60015, I see the Triumph truck will be at MCC, May 28 & 29.

True eneough, Duc -- and I'll be in Springfield, standing by the rail, gertting showered with dirt, and grinning like a loon!

It's just what I do.

;-}

[wiseblood]

Hey All --

Just got back from a ~1,500 mile trip which included quite a lot of twisty mountain roads. On this trip I noticed a few changes in the bike:

• More black carbon build-up on the exhaust
• Exhaust will sometimes belch black smoke if I blip the throttle
• Engine sounds / feels rough

I'm going to check the throttle body balance this weekend. Other than a loose bolt, that's the only thing I can think of which would cause the engine to run rough. Can anyone think of any other reason?

The black smoke... Sean thought it might be an overly-rich mixture. The only think I changed recently was replacing the OEM air filter with a K&N filter. I'll be checking that out, too, to make sure it's not blocked in some way. Possible causes I can imagine:

• Blocked air filter
• Defective mixture sensor
• Defective ECU
• Related to riding at higher altitudes for a couple days?
• ???

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Jesse