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Old 12-29-2007, 04:40 PM   #76
Mista Vern OP
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Sweet ride, Bloodweiser!! I am glad you finally got your bike, and a pretty one at that!

Don't know anything about paint refurb, so will let someone else chime in on that issue.
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Old 12-29-2007, 04:44 PM   #77
tennessee thumper
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First thing to remember on the guzzi...no oil filter. Change oil at 2000 mile intervals at a minimum. Also, there are a number of parts from other bikes and cars that will fit your bike. I bought plenty of things from Auto Zone that bolted right on including a rear tail light lens.

Stock turn signals or lack there of can be replaced with big new double sided red/orange shiney ones from your local truck stop. You can mount the signals on the side of the headlight/or put fog lights on the headlight bucket for an aggressive front end look. I did it, by drilling the bucket mounting holes out just a bit larger...I put fog lites in and loved the look and visibility.

Rear brake switches are a pain in the ass to replace due to their location. I used a lucas rear switch that was stock on most brit bikes in the 70's and 80's...it was half the price of the guzzi part.

all the best with your new ride....
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Old 12-29-2007, 07:55 PM   #78
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Nice ride!

Your local auto body shop will be able to fix that divot without too much

fuss. How do the mechanicals work? Makes mine look sad, indeed.

Here's a fun group of riders in the NE that do appreciate the classic Guzzi's.

www.deadhorse.com
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Old 01-18-2008, 06:27 PM   #79
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Time to resurrect this thread

Getting the "Maroon Goose" down to the basic bits this week.

The wheels, forks, electrical stuff, the fenders, tank etc. have been removed.

Now it's time to check on the bits that are exposed.

Since the bike's PO's were known to be "spirited" riders, I was pleased to

find the drive line in relatively good shape.

The final drive to rear wheel splines:

[IMG][/IMG]

Splined end at FD pinion:

[IMG][/IMG]

Drive shaft internal spline:

[IMG][/IMG]

"Spook" the cat seemed to approve of my progress:

[IMG][/IMG]

I made a call to Charlie Mullendore on Wednesday and learned a lot in the
45 minutes we talked. Real nice guy. Does some beautiful restorations.

http://www.antietamclassiccycle.com/index.htm

Charlie is also an inmate of advrider, posting as MZRider

Today I spoke to the other "Charley". Charley Cole of Zydeco Racing fame.
He specializes in transmissions and final drives and is the "go to" guru
amongst the Guzzi folks who want to keep their drive components free of
unexpected "detonations".
Another affable, fun to talk to bike nut. Here's a link to his stuff:

http://www.zydecoracing.com/page/page/3237960.htm

Most of what I've learned while disassembling this bike would be hard to track down without Greg Bender's wonderful site which is linked at the first page of this thread. Here it is again:

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/loopframe.htm

Going to get some more quality time this w/e.

Updates as they happen. Stay tuned.....................
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Old 01-18-2008, 07:51 PM   #80
Bloodweiser
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did you just pick zydeco racing charley's brain about rear drives + gear boxes, or do you plan on letting him work on yours?

Can't wait to see your progress. Let me know how zydeco services are.

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Old 01-19-2008, 09:34 AM   #81
deerslayR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodweiser
did you just pick zydeco racing charley's brain about rear drives + gear boxes, or do you plan on letting him work on yours?

Can't wait to see your progress. Let me know how zydeco services are.

Will prolly let him reseal/shim both units.
He comes highly recommended by many folks in the Guzzi community.
I want this to be primarily a reliable rider, not a show girl.

Some of the things he is capable of with the factory tools are beyond my
abilities any way.

I'm a firm believer in letting the pros do the "fussy" stuff that keeps me
riding when I'd be more than likely than not to be on the side of the road with a dead bike, who knows how long, after completion.
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Old 01-19-2008, 10:20 AM   #82
Bloodweiser
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well PLEASE keep us updated.

If anything goes wrong with my shit, its really nice to know that theres a pro in the same state as me no less!
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Old 01-22-2008, 07:46 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodweiser
well PLEASE keep us updated.

If anything goes wrong with my shit, its really nice to know that theres a pro in the same state as me no less!
Hey! I want credit for that signature line!
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Old 01-22-2008, 07:56 PM   #84
Bloodweiser
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Amboman Is King.

edit: hey man; how long did you electrify your tank for? I've had mine going since saturday; 2nd batch of solution, 2nd anode. I'm just going to keep going I guess, I'm still pulling all sortsa crap outta there.

DSC00040

Bloodweiser screwed with this post 01-22-2008 at 08:08 PM
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Old 01-26-2008, 06:13 PM   #85
deerslayR
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I'm in pieces, bits and pieces.....

.............sang The Dave Clarke Five in 1965.

Today the "Maroon Goon" became that tune................

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Now the out sourcing of services and intense cleaning will begin.

What have I done to this poor thing?
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Old 01-26-2008, 06:28 PM   #86
Bloodweiser
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i need a garage.

way to go, mr. slayR.


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Old 01-31-2008, 12:34 PM   #87
deerslayR
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Second roadblock

Yesterday I had a few minutes to continue the stripping of the

"Maroon Goon" and ran into a minor bump.

The driveshaft support bearing is held in the swingarm with an internal

circlip. The circlip was a BEAR to remove since the U-joint had been rubbing

on the "ears" of the circlip, thus making my snap ring pliers somewhat

ineffective. I did eventually get the circlip out, but now the bearing won't

come out of the swingarm. Since there isn't a lip on the outer race, I don't

want to tap too hard and risk botching up a good bearing, but in order to

get the swingarm powder coated, this bearing has got to come out, No?

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 01-31-2008, 12:53 PM   #88
jeffm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deerslayR
Yesterday I had a few minutes to continue the stripping of the

"Maroon Goon" and ran into a minor bump.

The driveshaft support bearing is held in the swingarm with an internal

circlip. The circlip was a BEAR to remove since the U-joint had been rubbing

on the "ears" of the circlip, thus making my snap ring pliers somewhat

ineffective. I did eventually get the circlip out, but now the bearing won't

come out of the swingarm. Since there isn't a lip on the outer race, I don't

want to tap too hard and risk botching up a good bearing, but in order to

get the swingarm powder coated, this bearing has got to come out, No?

Any help would be appreciated.
ha ha. I just replied to you on loopframe_guzzi, too :)

you cannot powdercoat without ruining the bearing.
bearings are cheap. replace it now, or else you will
be replacing it later - and will have to tear the bike down
again to get to it.

and considering how crusty your rig looks from the
photos, I'd consider all bearings to be suspect and
just replace them. you can order generic timkin
stuff from online places like mcmaster-carr if you
do not want to spend the $$$ at the dealers.

jeff
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Old 01-31-2008, 01:06 PM   #89
Yad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deerslayR
Yesterday I had a few minutes to continue the stripping of the

"Maroon Goon" and ran into a minor bump.

The driveshaft support bearing is held in the swingarm with an internal

circlip. The circlip was a BEAR to remove since the U-joint had been rubbing

on the "ears" of the circlip, thus making my snap ring pliers somewhat

ineffective. I did eventually get the circlip out, but now the bearing won't

come out of the swingarm. Since there isn't a lip on the outer race, I don't

want to tap too hard and risk botching up a good bearing, but in order to

get the swingarm powder coated, this bearing has got to come out, No?

Any help would be appreciated.

I just went through this same situation. Yes the bearing has to come out. First because you don't know how worn it is and you don't want it to go bad while you're riding, and second because you really don't want to trust it after it's been heated to 450 degrees for an hour during powdercoating. And yes it's a royal pain.

I found a long pry bar and used a grinding wheel to sharpen and shape the end so that it would catch the very little bit of bearing lip that is there. I inserted the bar through the wheel end of the swingarm to find the bearing lip, then pounded around the circumference. You usually only get one hit then it bounces off. Try to hit evenly all around it as it has to come out straight of course. I heated the swingarm too, but hard to tell how much that helped, it's worth trying.

When you get tempted to chuck the whole thing in the trash, take a break and come back later, it'll come out eventually and it's worth it. Took me about a year, including the grinding.

for which bearing, see Guzziology or:

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbend...rame_frame.htm

Side note - I recommend taking the old bearing itself to a qualified bearing store. It's a very fine fit both OD and ID and you want it to match perfectly, so replace it with exactly the same code, or have it mic'd. The one from my swingarm (1979 G5) was an SKF brand. It doesn't have to be, but in this case the code had an extra digit on it after what is shown in "Guzziology". The guy at the bearing store (it was an actual SKF dealer) said that the final digit had to do with ID tightness of fit, something about variations for electric motor use. So just getting the one with the Guzziology code could have been off a little. But I don't know how much off, or if that would matter. Just a thought.

good luck,
dave
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Old 01-31-2008, 01:09 PM   #90
deerslayR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffm
ha ha. I just replied to you on loopframe_guzzi, too :)

you cannot powdercoat without ruining the bearing.
bearings are cheap. replace it now, or else you will
be replacing it later - and will have to tear the bike down
again to get to it.

and considering how crusty your rig looks from the
photos, I'd consider all bearings to be suspect and
just replace them. you can order generic timkin
stuff from online places like mcmaster-carr if you
do not want to spend the $$$ at the dealers.

jeff
Thank you, Jeff!

Once again I find these Guzzi folks a great bunch.

The level of helpfulness overwhelms me.

I will replace the bearing.

As rough as my bike looks, I was amazed at how tight everything has been

so far. The steering head bearings and the swingarm bearings were toast,

but I expect that on a bike with an indicated 46K miles.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, the drive splines and the driveshaft bits

looked like new. Well built stuff, indeed.

Thanks,

Doug
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