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Old 03-05-2013, 04:43 PM   #1
travelinggnome OP
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Please Help - KLR650 Sheared Lower Subframe Bolt

Alright guys... so i just purchased a 08 KLR 650 and I suppose I wasn't thorough enough when I went to initially inspect the bike prior to purchase, because once I got home I realized that the lower left-hand sub-frame bolt was completely sheared off.

After hours of searching through various forums, I've found lots of threads on how to fix/drill through sheared UPPER sub-frame bolts, but I can't seem to find any threads on how to remove a sheared LOWER sub-frame bolt.

I'm absolutely terrified of doing the wrong thing and making my situation worse, so I'd really, really appreciate some help from the community on this one.

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Old 03-05-2013, 04:51 PM   #2
D_A
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If the bolt is completely gone just replace it with a high tensile unit and you're golden. If there's some part of the old bolt in there you'll need to extract it first (obviously). I usually drill out the centre of the offending bolt using a bit small enough so that it won't touch the thread then knock in an Allen key with a hammer (I said "knock", not "brutally bash") and wind out the busted bolt. It helps to use a centre punch first to help make sure the drill doesn't move to one side and mess up the thread, and to put piece of scrap metal behind the frame nut to protect anything behind it.
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Old 03-05-2013, 05:07 PM   #3
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Looks like it has been in there a while.... Soak it down with a penetrating oil (i.e. Liquid Wrench) and let it sit over night. Get a starter hole started like was said above and then use an easy out. If that doesn't work drill it through and try to use a tap to chase out the excess. If not, go one step bigger and retap. Use high grade bolt next time (unlike Mama Kawi)....
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Old 03-05-2013, 05:10 PM   #4
travelinggnome OP
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The bolt is NOT completely gone, there is definitely still the end of the bolt stuck in the nut-side. I'm afraid of using any easy-out or anything similar as I've been reading horror stories of people who break off the extractor in the bolt and then are unable to drill through it.

Would it be easier and/or safer to simply drill out the bolt and re-thread the nut that's welded to the frame?
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Old 03-05-2013, 05:17 PM   #5
D_A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travelinggnome View Post
The bolt is NOT completely gone, there is definitely still the end of the bolt stuck in the nut-side. I'm afraid of using any easy-out or anything similar as I've been reading horror stories of people who break off the extractor in the bolt and then are unable to drill through it.

Would it be easier and/or safer to simply drill out the bolt and re-thread the nut that's welded to the frame?
It's actually quite tricky to get a bolt drilled out cleanly without damaging the thread, and going to a bigger bolt could require drilling out the other holes which may not go as planned either.
I've snapped off more than my share of EZ-Outs and the like (thread extractors) which is why I tend to use Allan keys instead. You can put more torque on them and they'll usually bend before they snap off and you can use a hammer to give them that little bit more if required.
Using some penetrating oil is also highly recommended, I should have mentioned it the first time.
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Old 03-05-2013, 05:23 PM   #6
tommu56
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Drill it small and then use a left handed bit and jam it in and it might walk out.

Or drill it in steps slowly until the threads are left and they should spin out with a pick.
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Old 03-05-2013, 05:47 PM   #7
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Never had a problem using easy outs, you just can't push tools past their limits... There is no problem at all going bigger and tapping new threads, just go slightly larger than the existing bolt. Common sense would tell you not to go so big you compromise the backing nut or so big the new bolt won't fit through the subframe flange..... Duh. There are many ways to go about this, do what feels most comfortable to you...
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Old 03-05-2013, 05:55 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by travelinggnome View Post
I'm absolutely terrified of doing the wrong thing and making my situation worse, so I'd really, really appreciate some help from the community on this one.
I'd start with PB blaster and let it soak. A bit of paper towel in there will keep the joint moist and let more PB wick into the threads.

When I'm drilling a bolt, I like to start with a small bit in a Dremel-like device. The small bit and high speed let me get started right in the center of the bolt and even move sideways a little. Or change to a small grinding bit to create a dimple centered on the bolt. Then work up to larger drills.

You sound like you want to do this right and that's admirable. Let's look, though, at what happens if you screw up and drill out some of the original threads on the welded-on nut. Can you drill just a bit bigger, thread it, and put in a larger bolt? Drill through, don't thread it, and put in a longer bolt (after checking for chain clearance). Grind off the welded-on nut and put a loose nut there? (IIRC, that's a shoulder bolt and the stock length should work with a loose nut too.) Next time you have the engine out for something (a decade from now) you can weld the nut in place.

As I said, it's great to want to do this right. Doing it wrong is not all that bad. Yes, the next owner will bitch about what some PO did. (Oh, wait. You're seeing what some PO didn't do.)
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:15 PM   #9
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Thanks so much guys... I'll keep this thread updated on what I decide to do and how it goes.

So happy to be a part of this community; I've ridden for years and traveled all over the world, but this is my first adventure bike and thus my first opportunity to combine both of my passions. I definitely want to do it right.
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:51 PM   #10
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ya, soak it. I'm also not a big fan of easy outs. left hand drills are usually pretty effective, try the biggest one that will reasonably fit. if it won't come out you can drill out the stub & Helicoil it. pretty sure there is even enough room to drill it through & nut up a longer bolt if needed.

one thing that makes them more prone to shearing is being loose. if more than one is loose chances of shearing go up, even with the harder bolts. locktite them in
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:05 PM   #11
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:02 PM   #12
GearedUp
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I almost had that problem after a fall dualsport ride. When loading up my bike the rear subframe wiggled around real bad. Found those same subframe bolts a bit loose, but the holes were real big. Ended up drilling and tapping the welded nut the next metric size bigger. The next metric size bigger bolt fit in the enlarged hole perfect. This elimonated the sloppy joint that could eventually shear the bolt. Yes the welded nut was kinda thin tapped a larger size, but its holding up great so far. Worse case I will just add a nut to the inside if there's a problem.
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:12 PM   #13
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Had that happen on my 09. I just drilled the whole mess out knocked off the welded on nut and put a bolt with a nylock and washer on the back. Easy money.
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Old 03-06-2013, 06:37 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by schaffer40 View Post
Had that happen on my 09. I just drilled the whole mess out knocked off the welded on nut and put a bolt with a nylock and washer on the back. Easy money.
That's definitely The Nuclear Option! I'll bet it works great and lasts forever.

As others have sad, a left handed drill bit and an Easy Out will surely fix you right up, just replace it with a stronger bolt.

Very common failure, you are far from the first.
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Old 03-09-2013, 11:08 AM   #15
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Looks like a lot of rust and negligence on the frame. I hope you got a great deal!
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