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Old 07-03-2012, 09:58 AM   #6781
Geoffster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leafman60 View Post
I keep Slime in my rear tires with tubes and I have never been stranded with a flat tire.
I've never had an off-pavement flat. All my punctures have been from freeway debris.

I was actually surprised when a friend who's an avid, hard-core, single track rider reported that he, too, has never had an off-road flat.

IMHO, flats occur most frequently with low tire pressure and rim locks. Maximum traction appears to mean maximum vulnerability.

I carry giant zip ties (http://reviews.homedepot.com/1999/20...ws/reviews.htm) just in case. When I get back to pavement, I'll call the Auto Club.

(Never felt the need to be totally self-sufficient. Don't have cattle for my hamburgers, cows for my cheese, mines for my minerals, etc. Don't even have an oil well in my backyard! I'm such a city-slicker!!)

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Old 07-03-2012, 05:54 PM   #6782
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tenfive0 View Post
Inquiring minds want to know so yesterday I called Metzler Tire’s USA consumer affairs 800 number to find out if they offered a replacement “Tube Type” Tourance tire for a G650X Counrty. Metzler’s spokesperson confirmed a new Tourance size 130/80 17 is ONLY available as a “Tubeless” tire in the US. Just a heads up if anyone wants to use a Tourance 130/80 17 on their G650X Country and figures they can field service or change their own tire if they have trouble while trail riding in a remote area without access to a tire machine. The person I spoke with on the phone confirmed a “Tubeless” tire has a “thicker side wall and bead” and they are difficult to change with simple hand tools. It was also recommended not to attempt to change a “Tubeless” tire with hand tools because of the possible of damaging the tire. I don’t plan to do a lot remote trial riding but it is something of a concern that if do have a flat or other issue with my tire I have to rely on someone else or a dealer for service. Isn’t July 4th independence day? It kind of makes it worthless carrying tire irons.


As a result I called around and found another dealer about 40 miles away who can order a Tourance size 130/80 17 for $150.00 and if bring them my rim they’ll mount and balance for $30.00. Much more affordable and reasonable but traveling 40 miles seems kind of ignorant. I’ll probably burn up the savings in fuel with my truck and waste a days’ time. I’ll keep this in mind as a learning experience. Future reference I’m be building or buying a manual tire changer to mount my own “Tubeless” tires. Really the expense isn’t the only issue because one way or another if you want to play you have to pay. The issue is I ride because of the sense of independence and freedom it blindly provides. We are all just slaves to someone else who tells us what we should or shouldn’t be doing. Everyday we’re losing more and more freedoms and independence that we thought we had like sheep to a slaughter. I’ve been riding long before “JERK OFFS” like Jesse James and Orange County Choppers popularized riding with their brand of bullshit they have been providing the masses.
i mounted kenda big block tubeless type tires with hand tools. just tire levers and some soapy water as lube. i have also had the pleasure of repairing a rear flat along the side of the road and trail with the tubeless big blocks. it is possible.
ill repost the pictures for posterity.


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Old 07-03-2012, 07:53 PM   #6783
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Niedz View Post
i mounted kenda big block tubeless type tires with hand tools.
How are the Big Blocks? Can you compare/contrast front and rear with TKC-80, K60, D606 (rear only), T63 (rear only), etc.?

I have a true dual sport ride planned for two days in late September (2x50 miles off-pavement and 2x30 miles of pavement twisties with 90 miles of freeway at the beginning and end) and want to have the best tire for both worlds.

So far my best dual sport combo has been K60 on front, D606 on rear.

tia!
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Old 07-04-2012, 10:26 AM   #6784
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09 rear shock

I've got 10K on my 09 X country bike now and the rear shock is not working so well. I know this has been a problem for many and has been approached from many angles. I weigh 190 lbs. and carry about 30-40 lbs of gear on my long trips. I don't mind if my new shock makes the seat higher. Please point me a direction! Thanks ,Bob
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Old 07-04-2012, 10:35 AM   #6785
Geoffster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingbob7 View Post
I've got 10K on my 09 X country bike now and the rear shock is not working so well. I know this has been a problem for many and has been approached from many angles. I weigh 190 lbs. and carry about 30-40 lbs of gear on my long trips. I don't mind if my new shock makes the seat higher. Please point me a direction! Thanks ,Bob
Wilbers seems to be the best bet because Ohlins only fabs a shock for the Challenge and Moto.

I have a 640, Snooker has a 642.

I suggest contacting Ted @ http://www.beemershop.com.
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Old 07-04-2012, 06:47 PM   #6786
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Niedz- Now that's using your noggin! I like it!

Geoffster- That pics looks....um.....crowded. Lot's of revenue for the Bama there. I see why you need an Xco...to escape

I personally saw the kenda big blocks dissapear before my eyes when a friend put them on his F800 and rode from the Black Hills to Moab and back. They seemed to perform well for the VERY short time they lasted.

I'm cheaping out on a shock and will probably get the Ohlins BM636 for the Xchallenge. I have had no problems with performance on the air shock, but I do live in fear that it will go flat or loose air somewhere wher 150PSI minimum is not readily available. Anything below 100PSI and it might as well be a hardtail. I keep a strap on the bike in case I do need to go that route. Don't want to break a swingarm bottoming
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Old 07-04-2012, 07:09 PM   #6787
Geoffster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plumber mike View Post
Geoffster- That pics looks....um.....crowded. Lot's of revenue for the Bama there. I see why you need an Xco...to escape

I personally saw the kenda big blocks dissapear before my eyes when a friend put them on his F800 and rode from the Black Hills to Moab and back. They seemed to perform well for the VERY short time they lasted.
The photo is Huntington Beach, just blocks from Pacific Coast Highway, the Huntington Beach City Pier/Main Beach, and the Pacific Ocean. If you look at the photo again, you can see the twin stacks of a power plant which is also about 1/4 mile from the surf. Orange County is one of the highest density counties in the US. Yes ... I need to escape, and often!

That's kinda what I thought about the Big Blocks. Maybe I want to try Mitas E-09? I have a friend who has used them on his GSA with 21"/17" wheels from Woody.
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Old 07-04-2012, 07:22 PM   #6788
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Like most tires, the Kenda Big Block seems to last longer the less horsepower is pushed through it, and the lighter the bike. We have one on the front of an NX250, and I bet it will last 4-5k+. On an f800, probably shot in 2k. On an x-co, might get 3-3.5k. I'm heading back to a more street oriented tire on the x-co. For the trails i'm planning on picking up another set of wheels again to mount knobbies on, but this time keep the wheels on another bike.
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Old 07-04-2012, 07:38 PM   #6789
tenfive0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingbob7 View Post
I've got 10K on my 09 X country bike now and the rear shock is not working so well. I know this has been a problem for many and has been approached from many angles. I weigh 190 lbs. and carry about 30-40 lbs of gear on my long trips. I don't mind if my new shock makes the seat higher. Please point me a direction! Thanks ,Bob
I have an Xch air shock on my Xco. At about 6750 miles my stock shock failed in a big way. For the type of riding I do and my skill set the air shock was a reseanable and econimical alturative rather then spending $500 or $600 plus. The shock going flat is a consern but the used shock I bought also came with a BMW under the seat air pump I carry around with me. Ditched the tire irons and I’m no longer carring them. Fricking tubeless tires.
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Old 07-04-2012, 08:50 PM   #6790
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$150 xchallenge air shock, ne er bottoms.

With practise and the right levers you can change any tire, tubless or not. Metzler Tourances are definitely among my least favourite to change, with levers or on the No Mar, but they are easier with levers. Mostly it's about practise and technique.
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Old 07-05-2012, 08:43 AM   #6791
tenfive0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoffster View Post

(Never felt the need to be totally self-sufficient. Don't have cattle for my hamburgers, cows for my cheese, mines for my minerals, etc. Don't even have an oil well in my backyard! I'm such a city-slicker!!)

Damn it I want an oil well! Already having a cow. Look like a nice place to live and there isn't much grass to cut.

I've had plenty of practice and done more than my share of tire changing on laced wheels with good irons. Never one to give up on a good fight I’ve learned with age when it’s best to fight or flee? No when to hold, know when to fold. Not even going to give it a try with a Metzler Tourance tubeless unless I really - really have to. Almost ruined a new Dunlap K181 trying to put it on a Sportster Mag wheel a few years ago. Since then I've done dozens of laced wheel dirt bike tires for both my sons and their friends without any trouble. I think putting a tubeless tire on a mag wheel was the trouble. Might not be the case putting the tubeless on a laced wheel but why bother? This past Monday I ordered a Metzler tubeless because a tube type is no longer available. Paid $150.00 and the BMW shop I ordered the tire from agreed to mount and balance for $30.00 when it arrives today or tomorrow. Already have to wheel and tire off the bike and waiting for their phone call. I took the stock tube type tire off without trouble with my irons. If I decide to ride in some far off remote area or around the world any time soon I’ll be sure to pack extra gas a tube, patch kit and irons. Until then the gas can, tube, patch kit and tire irons are staying home. One thing for certain not to forget a cell phone to call someone with a pickup truck or trailer if I run out of gas or get a flat.
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Old 07-08-2012, 11:29 AM   #6792
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Here's my experience on changing tires on our 17/19 rims by hand, the Tourance rear seemed different from the others I have done by hand:
Quote:
Originally Posted by snooker View Post
...
But then I tried removing the original Tourances that have been on the original stock wheels since it was new, so about 5 years. The 19" front came off easily...

The problem was the 17" rear Tourance, well first I had to break the bead with a C clamp, no problem. I got the first side off but it was really tight. I could NOT get the 2nd side off even with using a nice Motion Pro tire iron with the big bend in it. I think the big 3" rims even make it worse. Getting a bit on that 2nd side seems mechanically very difficult to get in there! I even put it in the sun to warm it up, even used lube and also plastic gallon milk jug pieces to try and not scratch up the rims and also help it slip off.
I was trying to save the tire for use later but I ended up destroying the bead and had to take it to the shop. whatever.
I don't have the rear Tourance anymore but I'm pretty sure it was a Tube type, it was the original OEM tire. ( If the tubeless is worse then for me its hopeless! ) I feel fairly confident I could take off one side on the road just to change a tube, it was the 2nd side that was practically impossible for me.

But the others I have done were far easier (D606 rear, Mefo Explorer f&r, TKC front). I make a practice to do them with no lube and only shorter irons I would carry with me. It has definitely increased my confidence from 0 (or -20 = FEAR!)... up to "I can probably do this if I HAD to". But my real strategy is "I'm carrying zip ties like Geoff" until I get to a better place to change them if possible and I can probably change a tube since only one side has to come off.

Geoff those 48" cable ties are unreal - I've been carrying some metal clasp ones and figured I'd need two 12" ones to limp back at slow speed. Most of these tires are so stiff you could run them awhile with zipties if you were careful and watched them, I figured.

I am an old dirt biker at heart and though I'm tempted to lower air pressure it is not worth the chance of getting a flat to me - and we don't have rimlocks either. So on the XCo I just leave it at 25 psi ALL the time and ride offroad VERY carefully, picking my way on sharp pointy rock sections. Whatever it takes to not get a flat. And like Geoff the only one I've gotten is a wood screw in the rear on the road.

I also have a small bike pump WITH A SHORT HOSE mounted to my subframe always for a backup - though it would probably melt if you tried to pump a rear up to 20psi, and on real trips I carry a tiny METAL Moose CO2 head with some cartridges. Without a hose it stresses the pump too much and will crack early, IMHO. And of course the Enduro.com trail stand.
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Old 07-08-2012, 12:06 PM   #6793
snooker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingbob7 View Post
I've got 10K on my 09 X country bike now and the rear shock is not working so well. I know this has been a problem for many and has been approached from many angles. I weigh 190 lbs. and carry about 30-40 lbs of gear on my long trips. I don't mind if my new shock makes the seat higher. Please point me a direction! Thanks ,Bob
Since you are in Montana I "presume" you go offroad a fair amount. The OEM is worthless for that unless you weigh south of maybe 150 lbs , but you already know that. Especially the 09 it has an even shorter shock than the 07.

If you want more travel for offroad, and since you don't mind a higher seat - but mind you it will be a LOT higher! read the numbers -
anyhow if you want cheap I'd start with the XChallenge air shock used from an XCh rider. The next cheapest could be to have MotoPro rework your OEM shock with a stiffer spring (much written here about that), however your 09 shock is really limited in its shock travel so this will get you nowhere near the XChallenge air shock. And you won't improve the limited damping performance of the shock but it will cost much less and there is a lot posted here on it.

Next are Wilbers and HyperPro, both great shocks and you will have to spend roughly $1000 I'd say, for their best model. I don't have any specs for the HyperPro (but it appears well liked) as I went with the Wilbers 642 and it was made and tested for the XCountry. It's travel is better than stock but nothing like the XChallenge. I did not want to raise my seat height so I went with it and overall I'm happy. Support on Wilbers from Ted Porter at Beemershop.com is great. I'm increasing my spring stiffness now with him, and am on my 3rd one - send him my shock and getting a stiffer spring put on (free after 2 years of ownership!) and sending it back. More on that later...

For the absolute most in wheel travel you could consider the Ohlins BM636 made to fit the XChallenge (there is no Ohlins fitted specifically for the XCountry). Some have tried it, can't speak to the fitment but it is LONG travel, even longer than the BMW air shock, and your seat and kickstand will go up several INCHES!

You really need to think about the shock mounting length and resulting seat height, shock travel and resulting wheel travel. It varies greatly and off road performance will be a direct relationship to wheel travel.

Here is a summary but for more (2 year old data) check out my Wilbers Shock Mod website and be sure to download the spreadsheet if you want more data!

All data in mm - here is Wheel Travel, Mounting Length:
----------------------------------------------------
OEM XCountry 09: 165, 320+-10
OEM XCountry 07: 210, 333+-10
OEM XChallenge: 270, ??

Wilbers 642 XCountry 07 stock: 192, 333
Wilbers 642 XCountry 07 my custom order: 224, 341+-5

Ohlins BM636 Xchallenge: 305, 360

So let's see, your 09 currently has 165mm (6.5") travel PITIFUL! and 320-ish (12.6") length.
If you went to the extreme case... Ohlins BM636 this goes to 305mm(12") travel and 360mm (14.2") length.

Your wheel travel is now awesome but your seat is way up in the air, along with your kickstand. The geometry calculates out from the OEM specs that the wheel travel is 3.44 times the shock stroke, so likewise there is a mulitplier on the seat height, not sure what it is but it will go up much more than the 360-320=40mm difference in length. I'd GUESS the multiplier is 1.5 to 2.5 so the seat would raise 60 - 100 mm (2.4" - 4").

Does that help?
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snooker screwed with this post 07-08-2012 at 12:16 PM
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Old 07-08-2012, 12:26 PM   #6794
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Anybody out there that has done a tail tidy and is willing to help me out with a rear turn signal? Actually all I need is the stalk that broke... Help a brother out



I already posted to the main X thread but got nothing. I can't even find the stalk part in the BMW parts fiche so don't know what they even cost at the stealership. thanks!
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snooker screwed with this post 07-08-2012 at 09:03 PM
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Old 07-08-2012, 03:44 PM   #6795
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I have my stock turn signals in a box in the attic of the garage. You're welcome to them, but I can't be bothered to go look for them.
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