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Old 09-04-2012, 05:46 PM   #7066
Geoffster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snooker View Post
Dammit Geoff! You keep hanging out around youngsters and throwing around this newfangled Interweb slang... so I have to google just to decipher read your posts! First the honey badger and now what? The Flying Spaghetti Monster? aka Pastafarianism? Really?
Shall I quote from The Loose Canon?

Quote:
Originally Posted by snooker View Post
... and another thing, I posted about oil and swearing off synthetic in favor of your beloved Rotella... you didn't even respond? where's the love Geoff?
Actually, the older I get, the more agnostic I become -- about oil, that is, not the FSM. If an oil matches the bike's label for viscosity and grade, I say GO FOR IT. My 650 is currently running BMW 10w-40 because that's what the mechanic put in. But I still buy Rotella when I change oil myself.

"I don't always change my own oil, but when I do, I use Rotella T."

(Did you know The Most Interesting Man in the World is actually Jonathan Goldsmith? lol!!)
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Old 09-04-2012, 06:09 PM   #7067
kingbob7
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Muddys bolt

If you can turn the nut back on, and create some space between the nut and the swing arm on the open end of the nut. Then insert a flat washer or two or three behind the nut to take up space. Then turn the nut back off and the nut will push the bolt outwards. Kind of like a built in press. It might be enough to break the dissimilar metal bond. Good luck again. Bob
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Old 09-04-2012, 06:11 PM   #7068
muddyrabbit
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Originally Posted by kingbob7 View Post
If you can turn the nut back on, and create some space between the nut and the swing arm on the open end of the nut. Then insert a flat washer or two or three behind the nut to take up space. Then turn the nut back off and the nut will push the bolt outwards. Kind of like a built in press. It might be enough to break the dissimilar metal bond. Good luck again. Bob
I like this plan.
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Old 09-04-2012, 06:33 PM   #7069
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Couldn't find a washer, so just went back to turning the nut against the swingarm. Did not work. Need band aid.
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Old 09-04-2012, 06:35 PM   #7070
Starboard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRONE View Post


Those look like Ortleib Backrollers on a standard H-B rack.

Just an educated guess, right Starboard?
Drone wins the prize! Yes, it's my old bike-tour veteran Ortlieb Back Roller Classics mounted to standard H-B racks, with the only modification that I have added 2 additional straps down low to prevent them from moving around. I had the bike on nearly as rough of roads as I'd like to ride on and they didn't budge- I even went over at low speed and they supported the bike. I'm not sure how they'd fare going faster, but then again anything would break if you were going fast enough. The fact that they're waterproof, very easy to access and remove, and are inexpensive compared to some hard luggage makes them a winner in my eyes. No, they're not as secure, but I don't leave them in the bike completely unattended. Plus, the extra safety strap I use is sort of a pain in the ass to remove, so you couldn't simply pop them off without undoing it.

The trunk is an old one I used to have on a scooter- it was about $50 at JC Whitney. It's pretty cheap, and not really up to hard core use, but I have it and it works well enough for now. I did a little research and it looks like it's available under a different name from motorcycle superstore:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...vel-Trunk.aspx

I made 2 custom brackets for the box mounting plate out of 22ga sheet metal- they're way too thin compared to the beefy H-B racks, so I'll be re-making them soon.

It was a pretty good setup for a few days of riding. I think a windshield is in the cards for the near future- I'd like an easily removable one I can pop off quickly though. I used all of the gear I've used a bunch of times on long multi-day bike tours, so I was already familiar with most of the gear in the bags. The XCo felt nearly the same with all the gear on vs. without. I love showing up on a bike or a motorcycle and 15 minutes later you have a tent and campsite all set up, especially on a mountain top.

Now I need to start planning a longer voyage- maybe a week down in Mexico or something like that.
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:10 PM   #7071
ptpete
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRONE View Post
My solution was black plastic door edge molding that you can buy at any auto parts store.

This didn't eliminate 100% of the refracted light, but it removed a lot of it and didn't look too offensive or obtrusive. The next step was to place a strip of black electrical tape on the top edge of the lamp where it protrudes out from under the bezel. Probably got rid of 90% of scatter.
Ok, some more Man love for Drone!!

Took off the headlamp mount to put on black electrical tape on the lens. I went for covering the full width of the bottom edge with the molding.


Here's the before and after pics.





Sweet!

I have to admit, when I first read all of Drone's mod's I was like "This guy is insane!" ... but now I find myself making more and more of them.... Next up LIN3 lights.
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:30 PM   #7072
DRONE
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LIN3's rock! Wait till you see! And practically bulletproof. Super brake light mod and cheap.

PM me if you need help figuring out how to set the strobe to "steady".

BTW, if you thought I was insane for the mods to my XC, you should see my sidecar rig. About twice as many mods.
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Old 09-05-2012, 07:56 AM   #7073
tbarstow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snooker View Post
Really?? Tim I know you're a metal--ist but you can just imagine my pucker when I read your post?? I mean I'm not sure exactly where you would apply the flame to burn the bolt out in this case..
Burn the threads off in the tapped hole. You're not going to hurt the aluminum.

Or, if you want to use tools, skip the EZ out and just get a left hand drill bit.
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Old 09-05-2012, 08:48 AM   #7074
muddyrabbit
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Progress.
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Old 09-05-2012, 08:54 AM   #7075
tbarstow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddyrabbit View Post
Progress.
When you replace these bolts, use normal socket caps that use a 4mm allen wrench, not button heads that use a 3mm allen wrench. Skip the stainless hardware as well, it's too soft.
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Old 09-05-2012, 05:25 PM   #7076
muddyrabbit
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More progress, $10 slide hammer:
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Old 09-05-2012, 05:45 PM   #7077
snooker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbarstow View Post
Burn the threads off in the tapped hole. You're not going to hurt the aluminum.

...
ok. but. still. puckered.

In this case you can't get to the threaded part of the bolt very well either to apply a direct flame. One swingarm replacement was enough for me. I guess I'm a wimp.
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Old 09-05-2012, 06:03 PM   #7078
muddyrabbit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snooker View Post
ok. but. still. puckered.

In this case you can't get to the threaded part of the bolt very well either to apply a direct flame. One swingarm replacement was enough for me. I guess I'm a wimp.
Agreed. Tbarstow is a wise man on many subjects, but dude you'd have to be out of your mind to go after the lower shock bolt with a torch. I would be happy to watch video of him demonstrating on his bike though.













Anyhow, as has been pointed out, copious lubrication with something aggressive should help this process. To that end I am taking a break for some additional soaking in something sure to penetrate to just where it's needed.
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Old 09-05-2012, 07:03 PM   #7079
Pescador
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New Lights

A member is selling lights. He has a new one. What do you guys think?

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...751838&page=17

Price looks good. Not sure of light output or quality?
No warranty info.
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Old 09-05-2012, 07:46 PM   #7080
Geoffster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddyrabbit View Post
Anyhow, as has been pointed out, copious lubrication with something aggressive should help this process. To that end I am taking a break for some additional soaking in something sure to penetrate to just where it's needed.
Vodka martini? Shaken, not stirred?
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