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Old 12-09-2007, 07:38 AM   #16
rcfield
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....www.turbocity.com makes a DR 650 specific windscreen that has a great mount and design.
...I added a 4 in deflector to the top edge and it works
quite well

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Old 12-09-2007, 09:52 AM   #17
Ladder106
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Here's a mount photo. I took this back in '05 after the first installation. It shows the mount idea best.



No cutting or trimming or drilling of the BMW screen is requied. The stock BMW screen mount holes are used.

You need 2 long 6mm screws and one short one (for the bottom mount). 9 6mm nuts (nyloc work best) and 12 rubber backed "fender washers".

The mounting screws do not contact the DRZ shroud at a 90 deg angle so have someone help you mark the holes by holding the shield at the angle you prefer. Mark the holes the try to drill them at the angle at which the screw will contact the DRZ shroud. The fender washers do a good job at accomodating the angle changes.

Insert one fender washer onto the long screw, put the screw through the shield and then put another fender washer on the backside of the shield. Screw one 6mm nut all the way up to lightly squeeze the two washers together on the screen. Put another nut on the bottom of the screw and add one more washer. Put the screw through the hole in the DRZ shroud. Put another washer on the back side of the shroud and add the last nut.

By adjusting the bottom nuts you can change the angle of the shield. How much depends on the length of the 6mm screw you use.

Repeat on the other side top mount.

For the bottom mount, I reveresed the process. The bottom mount is not accessible without removing the DRZ headlight shroud. The top two mounts are.

For the bottom mount, put the screw in from the inside. Back it up with washers like the top mounts and screw on the nut. You should have a short bit of screw now sticking up from the bottom of the DRZ shroud.

Put the BMW shield on top of this and add the nut. This method allows easy removal of the shield if it bothers you while riding technical stuff. The top two nuts are accessible from inside the DRZ headlight shroud, the bottom nut is accessible from the top of the shield. The only thing you have left is a small bit of 6mm screw sticking out of the DRZ shroud just above the headlight.

After everything is loosly bolted up proceed to thighten up all the nuts. You don't want anything too tight to begin with so you can move the mounts around some to accomodate the angle changes in the screws.


You can usually stow the shield inside any medium sized backpack.

Unless I'm mistaken the DR600 headlight shroud is identical to the DRZ400 shroud so this shield and method should work.

I've used this for over 2 years now and here's what I've found.

..The shield will flex a bit at speed....not vibrate back and forth or anything wierd or scary. It will just push the headlight shroud back a bit. I've had it to the low side of 90mph with no problems.

..It's been on my bike for over 2 years and nothing has cracked or broken

..I don't bother to remove it when riding technical stuff any more. I've endoed the bike two or three times in sand with the shield on and have not injured myself (because of the shield) on any of those falls. The curved upper lip seems to help with this.

..It does a good job of taking the wind pressure off your chest and upper arms. I'm 6'1" and the wind hits me at the bottom of my helmet and about half way down my biceps



..It looks good (IMHO) but I still want to build a Dakar style frame mount fairing for the bike
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Old 12-09-2007, 09:55 AM   #18
Ladder106
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.....and after you have everything placed where you like it, you can take it back off and simply slip some black fuel line up the exposed part of the screw. This hides the exposed threads and give a more "finished" look.

....sorry no photo of this
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Old 12-09-2007, 01:03 PM   #19
onaXR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BooneDog
How about some details/photos on your mount? I am planning to do the exact same thing. I even have the same GPS. I want something I can mount the assembly with GPS mount, and accessory plugs, ie. street/touring stuff, but be able to pull it all off pretty easily for more difficult dirt rides.
Just bent a welded some round stock 1/8th in,( except the top bar I sized it for the TT mount) for the main hoop, from the upper fork leg bolts then tied into the front handlebar clamp bolts. Use washers notched and welded to the rod under the bolts. Welded a nut to the main hoop with a threaded thumb screw to pressure point the screen. Ill get some more photos.
See if you can tell what I got going on there, PM me if you need more info


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Old 12-11-2007, 07:53 PM   #20
BooneDog
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Nice, I was thinking of something very similar, but I don't have your welding skills. Well, I don't have ANY welding skills.
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Old 12-11-2007, 08:02 PM   #21
Foot dragger
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I just bolted on a regular DR specific Cee-Baileys and it worked fine right off the bat, Some people worry about it moving around some but I dont notice it and no buffeting at all. Im 6' tall and the wind hits the top of my helmet but no noise to speak of. Ive got about 3,000 miles on it at all different speeds and I still like it.
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Old 12-11-2007, 08:08 PM   #22
Brooklyn Rob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buffallodan
+1 for the Dakar shield:





Bike that inspired me to try the Dakar screen^^^








My Te-610...with the Dakar ^^^

The protection is great and at the angle I have it mounted I get very little buffetting if any. The wind hits me right at the top of the helmet so there is also little pressure on the Head reducing neck strain...Dakar Shield is a great option for any dualsport IMHO...
Yeah- a dakar screen is great for any dualie- except a dakar.
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Old 12-11-2007, 09:06 PM   #23
knybanjo
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Here's my simple set up. I'm very pleased with how it works, I may have just gotten lucky with the sizing/ spacing. It deflects the main force of the wind off my chest at highway speeds yet allows enough for ventilation and has not gotten in my way off road/ on single track either.


It's thicker than it needs to be (just might be bullet proof)...but I just used a scrap piece of lexan that was available to me.
Bolted directly to the number plate, spacing is accomplished by simply slipping a piece of hose/ gasline over the bolt between the two pieces, also providing a vibration free rubber mount.

Side views to show spacing.


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Old 12-12-2007, 12:55 PM   #24
onaXR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BooneDog
Nice, I was thinking of something very similar, but I don't have your welding skills. Well, I don't have ANY welding skills.
Well, really you could use flat stock and bend the ends, drill and bolt everything together. Even drill a hole for the pressure point bolt and double nut it.
Or...... you might pm me and talk me into duplicating mine maybe.
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Old 12-12-2007, 04:33 PM   #25
BooneDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onaXR
Well, really you could use flat stock and bend the ends, drill and bolt everything together. Even drill a hole for the pressure point bolt and double nut it.
Or...... you might pm me and talk me into duplicating mine maybe.
Man I wish. I'm looking to do something with my KTM, so it's not quite an exact duplicate of yours.
What you describe is EXACTLY what I do, I cut, bend, hammer, grind, bolt, but haven't tried welding. I'm very close to buying a small welder just to play with. I build this dash and brackets for the Buell setup on my DR. What I want to do this time, is something I can remove easily, I've got some ideas but like that bar you have to mount things up in your line of sight.



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Old 12-12-2007, 05:56 PM   #26
onaXR
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Buy a small mig welder (even a gasless one) and try it out. Its easy to pick up on. The cheaper migs run less than what you have in that Buell light. Which I love by the way.
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Old 12-13-2007, 03:07 AM   #27
BooneDog
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Yea, it's on my list of things to get, just need to do a little research into what I should actually buy based on the things I'd probably use it for. Been saying that for a year though. Stuff like you just did, small fabrications, repairing small trailer, making horseshoe hook things(we have horses), just playing around with things like that.
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Old 12-13-2007, 04:09 AM   #28
Ruffus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BooneDog
Yea, it's on my list of things to get, just need to do a little research into what I should actually buy based on the things I'd probably use it for. Been saying that for a year though. Stuff like you just did, small fabrications, repairing small trailer, making horseshoe hook things(we have horses), just playing around with things like that.
Unless you're doing body work (welding sheet metal) I'd get a 220 volt 175 amp (or there abouts) mig, cost a little more, but never lacking for heavier welding. I've had mine for 11 years & fabricated & built many things, including building my jeep & a few trailers. I've also done sheet metal, but its a long tedious thing to not burn through cheap sheet metal.

P.S. nice work with the Buell setup, I've done the same.
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Old 01-08-2008, 07:21 PM   #29
Jeff@TheQuadShop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onaXR
bmw gs650 dakar shield, fits the lines of the 400 great. I bet the 650 shroud is the same mold.




Are these black or a dark tint?
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Old 01-08-2008, 07:49 PM   #30
sagedrifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger
I just bolted on a regular DR specific Cee-Baileys and it worked fine right off the bat, Some people worry about it moving around some but I dont notice it and no buffeting at all. Im 6' tall and the wind hits the top of my helmet but no noise to speak of. Ive got about 3,000 miles on it at all different speeds and I still like it.
I did the cee baily too, I'm 6-4, 34" inseam and the wind hits me at neck level. I just put it on though, after one short ride I can say it does a good job of getting the wind off my chest and my head is in smoother air, less buffiting..

I figure it will be less tiring at 75 mph now, that wind is a beast on a 500 plus mile day.
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