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Old 06-02-2015, 08:34 PM   #1
Dr. Greg OP
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Dr. Greg & Wotan seek "Meek's Cutoff," the PNW, and ???

Dr. Greg & Wotan seek "Meek's Cutoff," the PNW, and...?

Time for another trip. Those of you that have followed my Ride Reports know that I usually have some kind of "historical theme"---this trip is no exception. This post is a "preface" for the day before I leave.

The last couple trips I've taken (NY Adirondacks, Texas Hill Country) have been "EAST," so we're due to head WEST...

Since I'm riding alone, with a bike that's hard (for skinny geezer me) to pick up, I'll be sticking to tarmac, with the possible exception of the odd campground. Seems like ADV contains more and more "extreme" Ride Reports---no need to worry about that with mine. Just takin' it easy---havin' fun as usual

I write these Ride Reports more for myself than anything else---so nice to read back over all of them during the long central New Mexico winter...

By the way, Wotan is a major deity in German/Anglo-Saxon paganism, as well as a major Wagnerian character. Great name for a bike...


The "Historical Theme" for this Trip...

It all started when I saw this book in the University of New Mexico (my former employer, retired after 36 years as Professor of Mechanical Engineering) Library...


This is the book that started me thinking...

Over the last few years I've read a lot about the "pioneer" movement of the mid-1800s, and "Meek's Cutoff" was an ill-fated detour of the Oregon Trail led by "mountain man" Stephen Meek, shown below:


Mountain man Stephen Meek, leader of the ill-fated party.

I'll be covering some details about the Meek Cutoff when I get there (eastern Oregon), but you can read a little bit about it HERE. It was intended to be a detour around the Blue Mountains of NE Oregon; hopefully to avoid the frequent Indian attacks that Oregon Trail parties experienced in that area.


The HEAD COLD from HELL (er, Texas...)

I thought that I had written only good things about Texas and Texans in my recent Ride Report on the Possum Trot Rally and Tour de Texas. But I must have said something vile, because on the day I returned (Saturday, May 2), I could just tell I was getting a scratchy throat. No sweat---good time to get a cold, since I've got five weeks to recover before my planned June 3 departure date.

Folks, I have NEVER been so sick in the head (er, except for my two-weeks-unconscious 1972 concussion)---I was drowning in a sea of mucus; my left ear (Eustachian tube) was completely stopped, so I couldn't hear...had to go to a specialist. Four weeks later, I'm still recovering, but I think I'm gonna make it. Whew! Sorry to whinge, but had to tell somebody ...

Oh yeah, I have TINNITUS, and the blocked Eustachian tube had the effect of turning up my "tinnitus volume control" from a "2" to a "9" in my left ear...talk about a messed-up head .


Gettin' Wotan Ready...

Wotan is my '13 R1200GSW---he was just at about 36K miles, so time for the big maintenance. Valves all still in spec, front brake pads good, rear worn (replace), etc. But it was time for new shoes, and I was relieved to dismount the OEM Metzeler Tourance Nexts (came on the bike), which---being a typical BMW R1200GSW tightwad---I had remounted befor the Texas trip to get the last bit of wear. They had developed the dreaded "wobble" which drove me nuts. Time to mount Michelin PR4s:


Wotan gettin' new shoes...

I don't know why, but it seems like tire beads are gettin' more difficult to seat as the years go by. Maybe it's me that's gettin' weaker---that's certainly true. Anyway, Mrs. Greg and I got the rear, but the front was stubborn. Time to pursue "better living through chemistry..."


The Front bead was recalcitrant...time for some chemistry .


Scrubbin' in the new tires...

If you live in Albuquerque, there's only one place to scrub in a new set of tires: NM 536 up (and down) Sandia Crest. The "dragon" of central New Mexico. Just my (good) luck to have road construction on NM 536---cool, just go to the head of the line, and wait. My timing was superb in both directions: the "pilot car" came down within a minute of my stopping! Clear road the rest of the way...yowza!

No way to get Wotan near the edge of Sandia Crest, so I contented myself with this "selfie" looking west: the crest is 10,678 feet in elevation. The Rio Grande valley below about 5,000 feet.


Dr. Greg enjoys the ambiance of Sandia Crest.


My Route on this Trip...

I intend to spend the first night in Pagosa Springs, CO, staying with old buddy inmate Gale B.T. and his esposa. After that head west through Utah (catch UT hwy 12), then maybe stop at Great Basin National Park (always wanted to stop there). Then wind my way to Vale, Oregon, where the "Meek Cutoff" really starts. Then on to Bend, then north to The Dalles, the end of "The Cutoff." After that work my way NE to Blanchard, ID (near Canada), where I'll spend a week at a resort. After that head west on thru more of WA, south to OR, maybe NE Cali, then on home to Albuquerque in some fashion.

I've found that 10 days is about my limit before I have to stop (I start waking up disoriented), so I'm allowing 10 days to get from ABQ to the resort (on June 12), and about 10 days to get home after I leave the resort on June 19.

Gonna camp, stay with friends, stay with inmates, stay at motels...whatever. I'll try to update this RR as frequently as feasible.


I don't travel especially LIGHT...

No, there's no "kitchen sink" below, but there ARE a few amenities by poor ol' body has to have. Y'know you're getting old when your medication bag is the biggest one you bring.


Too much stuff, maybe, but that's typical.

Finally, all loaded up and ready to go:


See, it all fits on Wotan.


Final words...

That sounds ominous. Got everything packed with a day to spare, so go to work Tuesday, June 2 (my consulting day; six-day weekends are great) and leave on Wednesday, June 3.

Thanks to any of y'all (recently returned from Texas) for following.

--Doc
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Old 06-02-2015, 08:42 PM   #2
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I'll be following along.

Sorta' funny to NOT see you on the MS. Curious to hear your take on the new tires.

Safe travels Doc.

RD
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Old 06-03-2015, 05:31 AM   #3
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Yay!! Another Dr. Greg adventure! Glad to see you're enjoying your retirement!

Thanks for taking us along
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Old 06-03-2015, 07:58 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by ROAD DAMAGE View Post
I'll be following along.

Sorta' funny to NOT see you on the MS. Curious to hear your take on the new tires.

Safe travels Doc.

RD
Yeah, I've had Wotan for just about exactly two years, so been off "the MS" for a while. Decided I wanted to go on living a little longer . Wotan is the perfect bike for the kind of riding I do these years...

The Michelin PR4 "Trail" (misnomer) are my preferred road tires; actually prefer PR2's, but they don't come in sizes for the GSW.

By the way, "RD" has special meaning for me, since I courted Mrs. Greg on my brand-new '73 RD350 back then...kinda wish I still owned it, but can't keep everything.




Quote:
Originally Posted by GB View Post
Yay!! Another Dr. Greg adventure! Glad to see you're enjoying your retirement!

Thanks for taking us along
Well howdy there GB...yes, I'm GREATLY enjoying my retirement. Looking forward to a good summer...thanks for checking in.




OK, folks, just finished my second cuppa...time to do the last bit of packing, give Mrs. Greg the final bit of affection (now, now...) for a while, and head for Cuba. Uh, that's Cuba, New Mexico...my lunch stop.

Looks like the summer weather pattern has finally moved in to the U.S. West; can't wait to finally get to UT hwy 12 in a couple days.

As much as I've enjoyed my trips east, I'm a "U.S. Westerner" born and bred. Feels good to be taking a "west" trip again.

--Doc
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Old 06-03-2015, 10:10 AM   #5
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I'll be following along, Dr. Greg!! Sorry our timelines didn't mesh this summer for tent space Buen viaje!!!
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Old 06-03-2015, 07:38 PM   #6
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Wednesday Evening Update, June 3, Pagosa Springs, Colorado.

Got up to my desired day's destination of Pagosa Springs, Colorado with my old friends Gale and Sandy. It was a great day of riding. Here's how it went...


Up I-25 to Bernalillo, NM, then West on hwy 550.

Mercifully only 15 miles of interstate, then off on hwy 550, which goes thru the little village of San Ysidro, then onward to my lunch stop at Cuba. Snapped the pic below showing the spur of mountains along the Jemez River which run up to the Valles Caldera, a huge volcanic crater/valley.


The ridge is a spur of the Jemez Mountains in north-central New Mexico.

It was a BEAUTIFUL day for riding: this is as warm as it got. Most of the day (above 7,000 feet) was in the upper 70s. Sure beats the 97F weather I saw when riding home from work the day before.


This is as hot as it got all day...wonderful!

The pic below was trying to show how "green" it was in New Mexico after the May rains...hmm, doesn't look very green to me. Oh, well, I tried.


This is "green" for New Mexico...

One aspect of the May rains is that we got some wildflowers...no, nothing like the ones I saw in Texas last month, but at least they're something.


About as pretty as New Mexico wildflowers get...nothin' close to Texas.


Crossing the Continental Divide!

For you Colorado residents out there, this is about as underwhelming as crossing the Continental Divide can get. Yet...it is proof that I crossed it, about 10 miles west of Cuba, NM on hwy 550.


Crossing the Continental Divide...impressive, no?


Junction of NM highway 537.

This is one of my favorite roads in New Mexico, and it's the "shortcut" to Pagosa Springs, Colorado. At the junction of 550 and 537, there is (naturally) a casino, but also a cool "tepee"...see?


Wotan and the tepee...

Along NM 537 there is some scenery, but not exactly overwhelming. For some reason, I thought these "rocks" were worth photographing. Maybe not.


Some photogenic rocks...or not. Well, I tried...


Some historical content.

I like "historical markers." Here's one along NM 537:


Wotan and a historical marker on NM 537.



And here's what it says...


A View to the West.

About halfway up NM 537 (halfway to US 64, that is), there is a pullout with a nice view to the west:


There are snow-capped peaks on the horizon, but hard to see.

I took a nice long break at the pullout...it was SUCH a gorgeous day.

After joining US 64, one arrives at Dulce, NM. Who says New Mexico doesn't have any green?


A view of Dulce, NM...actually some greenery!


Dr. Greg Reads a Book.

I stopped in Dulce for yet another break, and realized that Pagosa Springs (and my hosts Gale & Sandy) were only 48 miles away. I was gonna be too early! I texted Mrs. Greg for advice, and she said "why don't you take a break and do some reading?" Great idea! I'm currently reading "The Way West" by the Pulitzer-Prize winning author A. B. Guthrie (longtime Dr. Greg admirers may recall I'm a big fan of Guthrie).

So I found a nearby picnic table---in the shade yet---and caught up on my reading:


Nothin' like a good book to while away the day...


I'm in COLORADO!

I really wanted to get a pic of the "Welcome to COLORFUL COLORADO" sign at the state line, but I missed it. However, within about two miles, the view changes from "New Mexico brown" to "Colorado green"...see? The difference is DRAMATIC.


Colorado is SO BEAUTIFUL...I wanna move (oops, there's winter).

About 1700 hours I rolled into the driveway of hosts Gale & Sandy. I met them at Westfest 2007, and we've been friends since then. Absolutely the best people you'd ever wanna meet.


My Pagosa Springs, Colorado hosts Gale & Sandy.

And, in the best ADV tradition, there's gotta be a dinner pic, right? Well, here it is. Mmmm, good.


A perfect dinner, good food and just the right amount.

Oops, forgot to get a pic of the cheesecake dessert before it occupied my stomach. Well, it was GOOD.


Plans for Tomorrow.

Gonna head west around Durango, Colorado...probably have lunch in Cortez, Colorado, and head for the little town of Monticello, Utah. There are two campgrounds just west of Monticello that look inviting (8,300+ foot elevation), and another to the south (my direction of travel the next day). Hopefully I'll find space at one of those.

But no WiFi at little mountain campgrounds, so no evening RR update tomorrow. I may be able to get in a "lunch update" but there won't be very good scenery to show by then (I've been over that route a number of times).

Kind of a slow cell connection tonight, so it's been a pain uploading pics. But I was determined.

As usual, thanks for following. My June trip is off to an excellent start.

--Doc
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Old 06-03-2015, 08:08 PM   #7
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Nice start.....and beautiful bike!

I like that tool tube mount on the rear cross-member. Where did you get those mounting clamps?

HF
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Old 06-04-2015, 08:04 AM   #8
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Nice start.....and beautiful bike!

I like that tool tube mount on the rear cross-member. Where did you get those mounting clamps?

HF
Grainger catalog; don't have P/N, but they're stainless steel.

--Doc
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Old 06-04-2015, 08:10 AM   #9
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N like Flynn!
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Old 06-04-2015, 12:52 PM   #10
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Thursday, June 4, Cortez, Colorado "lunch update..."

A beautiful morning of riding (is this getting trite?) got me as far as Cortez, Colorado for a lunch stop (more on my choice of cuisine later. Here's how the morning went.


Another Anecdote about Yesterday's NM hwy 537.

Recall that yesterday I took NM 537 from 550 (west of Cuba) up to US 64 (near Dulce). I meant to mention an anecdote about that road...well, here 'tis. NM 537 is VERY lightly traveled, and has several nice straight sections. Around 2005, Mrs. Greg was driving, and I was piloting my 2000 Aprilia Mille RSV 998cc Rotax V-Twin. Once at NM 537 I got the itch to "open 'er up." I saw an honest 150 mph (the Mille speedometer is accurate) twice. Couldn't get 151. The eeriest thing about that episode was during the "cool-down"...once I got down to about 90 mph, I felt like I might as well get off and walk...

Don't have that urge to "open 'er up" with Wotan. Maybe cuz "she's" a "he".... End of anecdote. Sold the Mille a number of years ago---still the best overall powertrain I've ever experienced (flawless FI on the big Rotax, and a true "snick-snick" gearbox).


Leaving Gale & Sandy in Pagosa Springs.

As I told Sandy after breakfast..."I wanna stay!" It is SOOO beautiful there. Here's a photo of their very cool three-story (!) little house:


I wanna live here!

But I can't. Speaking of breakfast, Gale whipped up some griddle cakes that were loaded with goodies, mmm good:


Best griddle cakes I've had in quite a while...

By the way, Gale is an amazing guy. He played college football at the University of Alabama (full scholarship), then played semipro football and baseball in Canada. Has two Master's degrees, and moto-toured the USSR just after the '91 breakup. Still takes his BMW RT places I couldn't walk, and probably does inverted trials riding on his 640 Adventure (shown below):


Gale's old KTM 640 Adventure.

He has more stories to tell than any of us have time to listen. Just a truly amazing, humble, man. I feel privileged to call him "friend."


Construction Delays on US 160 'twixt Pagosa Springs and Durango.

Yeah, what I said. But before that, I snapped a couple fotos from US 160. First, kind of an interesting "cavity" on the mountain face (barely got it), then a shot of "Chimney Rock" (didn't stop, though, been there before).


An interesting "cavity" on the mountainside (well, I thought so...)



The legendary "Chimney Rock" (a view from afar)...

The road down to Chimney Rock is actually a very nice ride, but not on the menu for today.

As my heading title indicates, today it was "construction delays"...a bunch of 'em. Now, I've finally got the chutzpah to go to the front of CD's, but this morning the road wasn't twisty, and I wasn't concerned about my position in line (unlike in my "preface" in my runs up/down Sandia Crest).


A chance to take a break, I guess...

When I do pull in and the front of the line (cagers always leave a big gap to the flagger) I almost dismount and chat with the flagger for a while. Nobody much ever talks with them; they're invariably enjoyable to jaw with...

In the second CD of the morning, I was second in line, and the P/U in front of me had a couple nice-looking canines...I love dogs. I also love cats, for that matter, but not many cats will ride in the bed of a P/U.


These guys appeared to be enjoying the delay...



A gorgeous day to be delayed...

And---the best part of "construction delays"---when you're released (if you've played your cards right), you've got CLEAR ROAD ahead .


Clear sailing ahead!

Lunch Strategy in Cortez, Colorado...

So Cortez looked like a good time to stop for lunch. I've resolved to eat more healthfully on this trip, which means I'm trying Subway (foot-long sub: half for lunch, other half for dinner at my camp). Only problem is Subway has no WiFi. The best WiFi is...Mickey D's! So I bought my Subway, then rode over to McD's in Cortez (a block away) to eat it and update the RR. Uh, to be "legit" I bought a cuppa coffee at McD's. A fine strategy, I'm sure you'll agree...

As I indicated last night, I'm heading for Monticello, Utah...in particular, one of three campgrounds near there. Monticello is only 62 miles from my current location in Cortez. But before I leave, I might visit a museum that Gale found for me in Cortez...looks like it's right on my way as I leave town. I'll try to take a few pics there, and include them in the next RR update.

So...thanks for following, and see you in a day or three (depending on upcoming network connectivity).

--Doc
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Old 06-04-2015, 01:06 PM   #11
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[QUOTE] the way, Gale is an amazing guy. He played college football at the University of Alabama (full scholarship), then played semipro football and baseball in Canada. Has two Master's degrees, and moto-toured the USSR just after the '91 breakup. Still takes his BMW RT places I couldn't walk, and probably does inverted trials riding on his 640 Adventure (shown below):
Quote:
[/QUOTE
]

DOC had too much wine for he did not listen to the order of events as he has posted above. : Most of it is true but I played football /baseball in highschool in Alabama, baseball at Florida State, baseball in the Western Canadian league .Orlando, Fla. where I began my coaching career did have a semi pro football team that I played with.

I love the honors you gave me Doc Greg, but as much as I would have liked to have been that lucky, I better keep the past correct and true.

Come on back Doc Greg,, we can finish that wine and more food
gale
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Old 06-05-2015, 07:50 AM   #12
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I'm in. Ride Safe 'n ENJOY!
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Old 06-05-2015, 09:55 AM   #13
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I'm In

Hope you make time for Mesa Verde National Park while you are in Cortez. I was there briefly a couple of years ago, and can't wait to return. Some pics would help!
Have a great trip!
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Old 06-05-2015, 02:50 PM   #14
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Hope you make time for Mesa Verde National Park while you are in Cortez. I was there briefly a couple of years ago, and can't wait to return. Some pics would help!
Have a great trip!
Very sorry to disappoint you, but I did not visit Mesa Verde. It just somehow didn't fit properly into my schedule. Yes, I know I don't really HAVE a schedule, but...hope you forgive me.

--Doc
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Old 06-05-2015, 02:52 PM   #15
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Now, I only had a couple partially-full glasses of wine. My excuse is that my hearing in my left ear is still only about 80% cuz of that stupid infection. So I got roughly 80% of your background correct. Or was that 80% incorrect...whatever...

--Doc

[QUOTE=Gale B.T.;26931565]
Quote:
the way, Gale is an amazing guy. He played college football at the University of Alabama (full scholarship), then played semipro football and baseball in Canada. Has two Master's degrees, and moto-toured the USSR just after the '91 breakup. Still takes his BMW RT places I couldn't walk, and probably does inverted trials riding on his 640 Adventure (shown below):]

DOC had too much wine for he did not listen to the order of events as he has posted above. : Most of it is true but I played football /baseball in highschool in Alabama, baseball at Florida State, baseball in the Western Canadian league .Orlando, Fla. where I began my coaching career did have a semi pro football team that I played with.

I love the honors you gave me Doc Greg, but as much as I would have liked to have been that lucky, I better keep the past correct and true.

Come on back Doc Greg,, we can finish that wine and more food
gale
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