ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Riding > Ride reports
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 03-07-2008, 03:56 PM   #121
tagesk OP
Tuscan rider
 
tagesk's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Tuscany, Italy
Oddometer: 3,199
Thumb Day 8 Friday; Milazzo (Sicilia) - Lungro (Calabria)



(As always, the text associated with a picture can be found below the image)








All good things must come to an end. Also our little Giro Sicilia. But, fortunately, we aren't home yet. There are many things still to see, eat and drink.
But before we can leave the Island we must have breakfast. We have stayed the night B&B Monika, via P. Mascagni 1, 98040 Torregrotta (ME), phone +39 0909911289. Not very exiting, but I have no complaints, so what can I say. Except, naturally, that a boring place is not worth anything becuase Life is too short to spend in boring places.
Anyway - breakfast. We walk to the local bar. They don't have svoglia con ricotta which is what we notmally have with our cappuccino in the morning. Instead they offer oss a balu'. It is a big thing the size of a big lass of water, filled with ricotta, but with something very sweet on the outside. We had two but one would have been enough. We walk back to the B&B, change, and get ready to go.
We ride quicky to Messina, and board a ferry.

The ferry takes about 30 minutes and you barely have time to go up on deck before you need to start getting dressed again. But it is a firm and very tangiable way of leaving Sicilia. If it was a bridge the transition would be only inthe scenery. Now we know are are on our way.
To the right of Capa della Fammiglia you see tha column guarding the harbour of Messina.



In the harbor of Messina we also saw this green ferry. The name was Østfold, which isn't an Italian word at all. In fact, it is a region in Norway. This must be an old Bastøferge. Info is solicited.

We dock on the mainland at Villa di San Giovanni, and immediately turn onto the Autostrada. The sun is shining and we're have a good time.



After a while it is time for lunch and we turn off the Autostrada and drive down to the coast for lunch. The town we reach is Gioia Tauro. It it a modern town, run down and in need of investments and general maintainence. Wikipedia has the following to say about the town:
According to a 2006 report, Italian investigators estimate that 80% of Europe's cocaine arrives from Colombia via Gioia Tauro's docks. The port is also involved in the illegal arms trade. These activities are controlled by the Calabrian crime families known as 'Ndrangheta.
We run up and down a few times looking for a trattoria; returning to the mainland warrant an above-average lunch. But no luck. In particluar becuase someone on the bike wants to sit outside in the sun and eat. In the end we stop at a bar with the dreadful name of Easy Place, via SS 111 n. 47, Gioia Tauro.



Even though the name is dreadful (for an Italian bar in Italy, that is) it is another goldmine. We understand it is special when the owner says that yes, if we insist, he can make us panini with procutto and porchetta, if we insiste that is, becuase today is Friday and decent Christian people eat only fish on Fridays. We're not stupid, so we say we'll have fish. He brightens up, calls in his family, and tells us to sit down outside and wait. A car pulls up, and out comes wife and children with fresh bread, tonno (tuna), salads, and what not. It is almost like being in Sicilia! A lunch worth remebering.




The owner asks about the Bamsefar (that is our '00 R1150GS) and comments the four aux lights, I tell him that we come from Pisa, that Bamsefar has 90.000 km under the belt, and he explains that he had a bike earlier but now he has a wife and four children, but the youngest is nine, and he will soon be able to get a bike again. He fetches the previous issue of the monthly magazine DueRoute (two wheels) which features the 2008 model R1200GS on the front page. I tell him that 15.000 euro is way outside my budget, he agrees, so we agree that it is a nice thing to dream about.

And then he suddenly picks up a microphone, turns on the music, and starts singing. The others guests seems seem not to notice, so we stand in awe as a Friday morning performance is shown to us in a 13-to-the-dusin bar in a small and run-down town in Calabria. I love people that dare to live their life! What a relief!

I come from a culture where not showing off, not being special, blending in, and in general keeping your mouth shut is a prime goal. We all learn by hart that Tale er sølv men taushet er gull (speach is silver, but silence is gold). And not to forget Hver glede på jord må med sorg betales (every moment with joy in life will have to be paid with sorrow). Argh - I also love Calabria!

The espresso has at least half a cm of crema (about 0.196850392 inches) and it worth a moment of silent joy. Drinking a properly made espresso, sitting in the sun outside a bar, after a nice lunch, is simply priceless!



But we must go on, and we take our farwell. If you even pass through Calabria, be sure to visit Easy Place in Gioia Tauro!
We ride back to the Autostrada and continue north. Again we are stunned by the huge works that are in progress. If it ever is completed this will be the most stunning Autostrada in Europa. We ride for a few hours, and at about five we turn off the Autostrada and start looking for a place to stay the night.

After some time we end up the the little hotel Viale delle Rose, via San Leonardo 18, Lungro (CS), phone +39 0981947558. The room was slightly in need of being refreshed, but it was nice and clean so we didn't mind. The little boy was like a ray of sunshine and if he get's interested in motorbikes we know what he will buy.

Shower and change. There is a large stove in the (large) dining hall and it is on full. They also have a huge TV that we, who aren't used to TVs, find very annoying. But then they serve us a excellent antipasta made of local ricotta accompanied with a glass of prosecco. Then a odd local fusilli con funghi (pasta with mushrom), and then finally salsicce (sossage) with a strong chili. Perfect after a long day! Then off to bed - which is a perfect way to end a day!

286 km (175 miles).

Tomorrow we will ride to Roma and visit a friend, and then home. But first we will learn why we understand even less than usual of what they say to eachother around here.

Thank you for your attention!

[TaSK]
__________________
'02 R1150GS - Adds life
My Riding in Tuscany-thread is here.
Renting out motorbikes in Toscana, Italy
Proud contributor to Wisdom and GSpot FAQ and European Ride Report Index.
IBA: 33616
tagesk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2008, 04:55 PM   #122
MichaelJ
Beastly Adventurer
 
MichaelJ's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Location: Sterling, Virginia, USA
Oddometer: 2,195
Quote:
Originally Posted by tagesk
I remember a similar unfinished building near the village of Erto (near the Vajont frana) that was like this from 1969 (when I first saw it) to 2006. When I passed by last summer, it was being worked on!

I almost fell off my bike.
__________________
Michael J. - IBA #3901
Ten years in the Alps (so far)
Alpine Trip Reports: 2006, 2007, 2009
Pictures, pictures and more pictures
MichaelJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2008, 12:53 AM   #123
Shaggie
Unseen University
 
Shaggie's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
Oddometer: 2,606
[quote=tagesk]


Hi mate

can you explain the 'add-on' structures attached to the bridge?

Cheers

Shane
NZ
__________________
Shane

"We are not at home to Mr Reasonable" - Sam Vimes

NZ Touring pics:Brass Monkey 2009:Kiwi Sun:Tiki-touring: Daytrips in NZ
Shaggie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2008, 01:15 AM   #124
tagesk OP
Tuscan rider
 
tagesk's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Tuscany, Italy
Oddometer: 3,199
Thumb Add-ons

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggie

can you explain the 'add-on' structures attached to the bridge?

Shane
NZ
First an overview.
This picture was taken facing West, so we have the old (as in Roman) city center on the right-hand side and the new expansion (as in middle-ages) on the left. The bridge itself is a new (as in 1300) replacement for an old (as in Roman) bridge at this point.

There are two add-on's. In 1565 Cosimo I'st of Medici purchased the huge Palazzo Pitti on the left bank. To get to his offices in Uffizzi on the right bank he had an elevated corridor built through the city and over the bridge. Here is a picture of the corridor just as it turns onto the bridge.




Now, two things happened. The butchers were expelled from the bridge as Cosimo didn't like the smell, and jewellers took their place; they are still there. The bridge is quite narrow but now there was a structure (the corridor) on which additional structurs could be attached. And as the jewellers needed more space, the shops were extended.

The corridor is called Vasari's Corridor after Cosimo's lead architect.

[TaSK]
__________________
'02 R1150GS - Adds life
My Riding in Tuscany-thread is here.
Renting out motorbikes in Toscana, Italy
Proud contributor to Wisdom and GSpot FAQ and European Ride Report Index.
IBA: 33616
tagesk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2008, 01:58 AM   #125
Duscherck
Vufera Era
 
Duscherck's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Bologna,Italy
Oddometer: 175
Hi Tagesk,
I ever follow your thread very beautiful!..thanks ..

Duscherck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2008, 02:08 PM   #126
tagesk OP
Tuscan rider
 
tagesk's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Tuscany, Italy
Oddometer: 3,199
Question Pranzo in the mountains?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Duscherck
Hi Tagesk,
I ever follow your thread very beautiful!..thanks ..


Ci vediamo a Sambuca Pistoiese per pranzo dopo pasqua?

[TaSK]
__________________
'02 R1150GS - Adds life
My Riding in Tuscany-thread is here.
Renting out motorbikes in Toscana, Italy
Proud contributor to Wisdom and GSpot FAQ and European Ride Report Index.
IBA: 33616
tagesk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2008, 03:04 PM   #127
Frgich
Studly Adventurer
 
Frgich's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Europe-Croatia-Zagreb
Oddometer: 830
Carefully reading and enjoying the thread as always .

Tagesk thanks for the hotel info and for the great write up you brought along the thread, the pics I won't comment, there's no need for that
__________________
www.lobagola.com motorcycle and bicycle friendly bed & breakfast in http://goo.gl/GvQiNs, Zagreb, Croatia
Frgich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2008, 04:02 PM   #128
tagesk OP
Tuscan rider
 
tagesk's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Tuscany, Italy
Oddometer: 3,199
Thumb Day 9 and 10 Saturday and Sunday; Lungro (Calabria) - Home

The last two days was mostly just transport, but not only. I'll do them both here in one installment. Remember that the maps have a scale in the lower right-hand corner, and that the text is always below the image it refers to.
Map with all the photos is here.

OK - here we go.



Day 9, and we wake up in the hotel Viale delle Rose, via San Leonardo 18, Lungro (CS), phone +39 0981947558. Standard breakfast (no bar in sight); boring.
We have gotten so used to not understand anything of what people say after a week in Sicilia that we do not notice that we understand even less than usual. "Normally" we at least understand words like si and no. But here, deep in the Calabrian countryside we can't get hold of a single word.
At checkout we comment on it. To our surprise the host says that noone in this village has Italian as their first language!






It turns out that about 500 years ago the Turks invaded Albania. People fled, and quite a few fled north to Trieste (too cold) and then down the Italian penninsula until they found the same temperature. Not only did the settle, but they kept their Albanian heritage wery much alive. So alive that still, 500 years later, an old and archaic Albanian is still their native language. It is only natural that we didn't understand a word! As you can see even official signs are bi-lingual. So we have learned something new also today!



After having talked for a while, having been introduced to a husband and a sister (and the KTM-boy again), we take farwell. Load evrything onto Bamsefar, and take off. We aks Mr. Zumo to take up to Roma by means of Autostrada, please, and discard his first suggestions as the weather is too nice to leave the mountains. And that was lucky!
As we refused to turn onto the Autostrada at Castrovillari and instead kept on riding on SS19 we came round a curve and saw Morano Calabro! I must ask: Have you ever seen a more beautiful hilltop town?

It is old (Roman) and the castle guards the Strada Consulare Romana (Roman road)named via Capua - Rhegium (Via ab Regio ad Capuam), known also as via Popilia and via Annia, that passed here on the way from Roma to Reggio di Calabria. In fact Morano is explicitly mentioned as a (military) station on the road. I like these things!
But luck is not on my side, as my pleas for stopping and spending a day is brushed aside; even I understand that we need to be home tomorrow, but look at the jewel! Capa delle Famiglia is not Capa without reason, so I ride by as slowly as I can. But I do as I am told, and ride by
Next time I am home alone I will not hold a party, I will ride down here and enjoy Morano!



A few km after Morano we hit the Autostrada. I guess that an Italian Autostrada is (more or less) like an US Interstate - two-lane boring asphalt that winds through the landscape. But that doesn't follow the landscape, it forces it's way through without elegance and respect for hills and valleys. Every hour we stop to relax a little; this is vacation, after all.




One of the places we stop has choosen a colour that is, well, strong one might say. In fact, my ugly, ugly, ugly safety west suddenly seemed descrete. We didn't stay long - the colour made us unwell.

We pass Napoli (more and more people do that now, which will probably make things even worse (if possible!)). Check out this UTube video or this one. As always here in Italy, everyone is pointing on the Mafia, which means that noone will have to take any responsibility, and I (taxpayer sucker) will pick up the bill. Oh well - some things never change.

In the late afternoon we arrive Cerveteri where we lodge with a friend.




So, what can we say about Cerveteri. Not much, except that it has the largest ancient Necropolis Mediterranean area. More than a thousand tombs. The Necropolis was in use from the 9th to the 3rd centry BC (that is, before the Romans came and meddled everything). Or, in other words, the town is more than 3.000 years old. Old enough even for me.

534 km today.

----

Day 10 and we wake up after a long night. Being close (in relative terms) to home means that we can relax somewhat. The weather is nice so we expect no surprises.



Before we depart I try to convince our host that no forms of vacation can beat one on a large bike. I don't know if I managed to get the message accross. Don't think so.






We ride comfortably north on via Aurelia (constructed 241 BC), passing Civitavecchia, and riding into the town sentre of Tarquina. This city was flourishing already in 655 BC when it is known that the Greek refugee Demaratus arrived. Again, old enough for me.

We find a small pizzeria, but we don't have the pizza. If you look at the topmost picture you see that they only have electrical ovens, and then the pizza doesn't taste as well as it does when it is made in a proper stove.
Instead we take what she claims is a local speciality: Thin bread (almost like a schiattciata) with all sorts of delishous stuff on top. Slightly heated, and served. Someone opted for a Dutch beer - how this can be appropriate is beyond me! Then an espresso, but no sigar.

After having sat for a while in the sun, we agreed that we really wanted to get home. We jumped on the bike and a few hours later we rolled into the yard.
The only thing worth mentioning was that when we had about 100 left one break pad was finished. I ignored it, and we rode home. The sound was awful but the breaking power was ok. Before I changed the pads I measured the disk and the few stops we had the last 100 km didn't consume enough of the disk to warrant a replacement (still more that 4.5 mm to go).

298 km today.

Total for the vacation: 3.454 km.

Thank you for your attention! I hope that this little detour outside of Toscana has been a turn-off. I promise that there are many rides in Toscana coming up.


[TaSK]
__________________
'02 R1150GS - Adds life
My Riding in Tuscany-thread is here.
Renting out motorbikes in Toscana, Italy
Proud contributor to Wisdom and GSpot FAQ and European Ride Report Index.
IBA: 33616
tagesk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2008, 04:12 PM   #129
Duscherck
Vufera Era
 
Duscherck's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Bologna,Italy
Oddometer: 175
Quote:
Originally Posted by tagesk


Ci vediamo a Sambuca Pistoiese per pranzo dopo pasqua?

[TaSK]
I'm ready

Duscherck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2008, 04:36 PM   #130
tagesk OP
Tuscan rider
 
tagesk's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Tuscany, Italy
Oddometer: 3,199
Laugh In Curia

Quote:
Originally Posted by RonS
I think you've stolen the life I was born to lead. I'm glad to see that it's in good hands.
As you migth know, Curia is the administration in the Vatican. If you follow their line of argument, Curia is in fact God's administration (as the Pope is God's representative down here). In Norwegian we have an expression "In Curia", meaning "a mistake of such a nature that noone can be blamed, even though it is obvisouly a mistake". I have no idea how a Lutheran country like Norway can have an expression asserting the Pope's position, but that is besides the point.

Anyway, with thet background, let me present myself so that you can understand how come I am living your life: You see, I am an Italian that by an In Curia was born in Norway to Norwegian parents. I am working on rectifying it.

You know who to blame!

[TaSK]
__________________
'02 R1150GS - Adds life
My Riding in Tuscany-thread is here.
Renting out motorbikes in Toscana, Italy
Proud contributor to Wisdom and GSpot FAQ and European Ride Report Index.
IBA: 33616
tagesk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2008, 04:43 PM   #131
GB
Mod Squad
 
GB's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2002
Location: Toronto, ON
Oddometer: 55,848
It doesn't get much better than this.. thanks for the updates and pics
__________________
ADV decals, patches & flag? Here
GB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2008, 04:44 PM   #132
tagesk OP
Tuscan rider
 
tagesk's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Tuscany, Italy
Oddometer: 3,199
Thumb Sun !

Quote:
Originally Posted by bavarian
Hi Tagesk,

that RR really did whet my appetite. I am planning to ride to Tuscany end of March, well, actually I want to ride south until it gets warm enough. How's the weather end March/beginning of April??
Yesterday and today I have not been outside. It has been below 10 degrees Or, in other words, not normal!
There are flowers on all fruit trees and spring has arrived. As you can see below the rest of the week will be normal.



I have customers arriving on Wedensday for a long weekend riding in Toscana. I look forward to it!

[TaSK]
__________________
'02 R1150GS - Adds life
My Riding in Tuscany-thread is here.
Renting out motorbikes in Toscana, Italy
Proud contributor to Wisdom and GSpot FAQ and European Ride Report Index.
IBA: 33616
tagesk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2008, 07:08 AM   #133
tagesk OP
Tuscan rider
 
tagesk's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Tuscany, Italy
Oddometer: 3,199
Thumb Let's meet

Quote:
Originally Posted by Duscherck
I'm ready

I've added a post in the regional forum for Europa. You find it here. Let us see if there are more Italians lurking around here. The smell of good food should smoke them out

Last time I was there I had an above-average bistecca

[TaSK]
__________________
'02 R1150GS - Adds life
My Riding in Tuscany-thread is here.
Renting out motorbikes in Toscana, Italy
Proud contributor to Wisdom and GSpot FAQ and European Ride Report Index.
IBA: 33616
tagesk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2008, 07:35 AM   #134
MarkE
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Oxford, UK
Oddometer: 31
Thanx for the memories

Tagesk: the first Mrs MarkE sono Siciliana and we visited a few times (her father still owned his house there, so we had cheap holidays); you've refreshed a few memories. You missed a lot of the island going around the outside; there are treats to be found in the centre. I'd love to go back, but convincing the second Mrs MarkE to visit the home of the first may require the sort of diplomacy that is beyond me.

While we were married I tried to impress the in laws by learning Italian - months of hard work with a Linguaphone course, secretly in the car, and I could understand Rai on satelite (except sport) and even follow Italian films, but I still couldn't understand the in laws. I finnally admitted what I'd been doing, to great hilarity and the comment that they still spoke the old dialect that was common when they had left Sicily! Their view was that it was dieing among the young because they all watched TV and listened to the same radio stations. Maybe not quite as dead as they thought? Sadly I don't practice Italian often enough to keep it - it only starts to come back after a week in Italy, which may be too late for each holiday.

I really miss my former mother in law's cooking and the chance of easy and frequent visits to Sicily. If I could just get them back without having to involve my first wife...
MarkE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2008, 06:29 PM   #135
tagesk OP
Tuscan rider
 
tagesk's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Tuscany, Italy
Oddometer: 3,199
Thumb Weekend in Toscana



There are many show-stoppers. From medication against high blood pressure, to smashing your camera on a recent trip to Sicilia. So while I have indeed been around in Toscana also the last couple of weeks, I have been unable to take even a single picture. So I have refrained from posting. But two friends are visiting (a blue BMW K1200GT and a 200 hp Kawazaki ZX14 - obviously red). I had hoped they would have left their bikes at home and rented from me instead, but no go. So we'll ride on our own bikes. As the picture shows the blue K1200GT and the (very!) red ZX14 gets more attention than a mere 1150GS.

This first day of riding we'll go to Montalcinello. It is a small and anymous hilltop village in Toscana, but it has a nice trattoria. Capa della Famiglia and I were there a few weeks ago; that ride is documented in this thread in post 92 (link here).




They might have (much) more powerful bikes that what I have, and I also carry Capa delle famiglia, but in general they have to work to keep up. The small roads in Toscana is my home turf, and the other bikes are made for high velocity travel on other types of roads (read: Autostrada). The sun is shining and things are generally very nice.




We order primo and secondo, a small bottle of Chianti, and water. We are offered a small antipasto consisting of warm white beans and prociutto (parma ham) in very thin slices. Then we have spaghetti with piselli (peas), which is what we are eating on the picture above. As secondo the guys have cervo (deer) while Capa delle famiglia have agnello (lam). We follow up with an espresso, and a relaxed hour in the sun.



The only problem is that Espen likes to smoke the same sigarillo I with great effort have learned to forsake. So I long even more than usual for a sigar as we sit in the sun. Here he is sitting outside a nine hundred years old church, with his mobile phone in one hand and that object of desire in the other. Ah, where it not for Capa delle famiglia I would probably have given in and taken just one.



Espen and Arne spends more time washing and polishing their bikes in one weekend than I do in a year. I don't have problem with that - it rains and the bike gets washed. But it turns out that Capa looks at those jewels with some envy (they have less on the odo than I ride in a year, but that doesn't seem count).



I prefer silver.

We make it safely back home, and have a large dinner to go on top of the large lunch. We like it that way here.



Next day we ride north to the city of Massa. There is an excellent gelateria (lets say it means ice cream bar) at Piazza degli aranci. But as we for many mundane reasons are late, alas, it si closed for lunch. Capa della Famiglia panics - she is desperate for some ice cream. Proper Italian ice cream. And some home-made choccolate. We consider our options, and decise to ride up into the Alpi Apuane (the mountains overlooking Massa-Carrara). If you ride from Massa and up, and then down on the other side beyond Arni, all the down into the valley, there is a single house and there, in the most unlikely place you can imagine, there is a trattoria.

The Michelin (for some spelling of that name) makes this guide advicing fellow travellers where to wine and dine. One star is "Worth a visit". Two stars significates "Worth a detour". Three stars: "Worth a journey". Now, this place really deserves one, maybe two stars. I advice a visit if you are here!



Before we enter, Espen snaps a picture solely for the pleasure of readers here at ADVriders.



They have no water (frozen maybe - it is cold here on the north slope of the mountain), and things is a little compliccated. But she has a nice ragu and cooks spaghetti, offers us some pecorino (cheese from sheep milk), we have water and a little wine, and it all turns out to be a healthy and nice lunch. I bet this place will be closed in a few years. We love this place.



There is a closed marble quarry just there, and we climb in to check it out. If you haven't been "inside" a marble quarry, you should find one to visit. It is nice.



By the way: If I forget reality and really want an original Fiat 500, remind me that I wouldn't be able to bring my friends along for a ride.



We descend down to Massa, and arrive fit for some home-made stuff. The colours inside is a little strong, but the gelato is simply amazing. The bar is named Haziel and the address is Piazza Aranci 30, with phone 058543359.

Now, as I still don't have a camera, I have no more to offer. But I promise you that we both rode home (along the ocean), and had a proper dinner.
I hope to get my camera back next week.

Thank you for your attention.
__________________
'02 R1150GS - Adds life
My Riding in Tuscany-thread is here.
Renting out motorbikes in Toscana, Italy
Proud contributor to Wisdom and GSpot FAQ and European Ride Report Index.
IBA: 33616
tagesk is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 05:40 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014