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Old 01-21-2008, 08:01 AM   #136
AntonLargiader
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kixtand
Try putting it in first gear instead of fifth.
Exactly. 5th is when you want the engine to spin, 1st is when you don't. Often 1st gear is enough for driveshaft bolts.

I try to remember to loosen them before the wheel comes off, though. Try to...
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Old 01-21-2008, 08:18 AM   #137
kbasa OP
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Thanks, guys.

Back to it tonight.
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Old 01-26-2008, 12:16 PM   #138
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It's all good!

Dave,

Yo! Just saw this thread. Steve told me about it! It looks like everything is moving forward nicely! Glad you are taking EVERYTHING apart. My motto is DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE!!!

Some observations and comments.

GREAT to see a picture of the FNG!! Damn I miss him... Domo and I were on our way out to see him at the Laguna Seca round of the WSB, and he was killed 1 week before we left.

Glad you got the exhaust and that you are happy!

All 1984 R100 (CS, RS, RT, and R80RT) seats are the same and they are not "comfort" seats. That is typically a K Bike term. Personally I prefer the earlier pattern and foamstyle. This is the ONLY airhead dual cowl style seat that is still available new from BMW.

The centerstand issue is on the frame, not the centerstand. I put a brand new centerstand on my 1981 R100CS and it sucked even afterthat. It wasn't until I built up the contact points on the frame that I fixed the problem.

While you are at it, get the updated sidestand kit from BMW. WELL worth the $110.00 it costs.

The model year thing is only valid in Germany. By German law, it HAS to be sold for whatever year it was built in. Not so for the US. That is why there are 1969 R75/5's, 1973 R90S's, 1976 R100RS's, etc., etc.

Keep it up man and maybe someday it can look like this!!

Cheers, PhacK
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phactory screwed with this post 01-27-2008 at 08:58 AM
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Old 01-26-2008, 10:32 PM   #139
mutineer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbasa
OK, so I get the shaft drained, get the final drive off and slide back the cover to start working on the driveshaft bolts. I put the bike in 5th gear and start to loosen one of the bolts.

And the shaft just turns around as nice as can be.

Suggestions? Put the final drive back on so I can apply rear brake to hold the bolts tight?
that is what I did

a set of clutch pliers would probably hold it though

not that I want you to get done before me or anything

I need to order some bearing, races, and drive bolts and stuff
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Old 01-26-2008, 10:34 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbasa
I saw some dude selling an XLCR on craig's list for $6500.

More progress tomorrow.

don't you have a digital camera?
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Old 02-01-2008, 02:12 PM   #141
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This bike got hit at some point prior to Greg owning it. It was put back together by Duncan at Duncan's Beemers in Maynard, MA, I believe. It got hit on the right side. From what I can see, it must have taken a shot right behind the carb because the shield around the output flange is JB welded back together. Additionally, the jug on that side isn't original.

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Old 02-01-2008, 02:15 PM   #142
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I managed to order some new headlight ears. These ones have had a pretty tough life. Acid scarred from the accident and bashed in pretty badly.

The new ones are really pretty.

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Old 02-01-2008, 02:17 PM   #143
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More stuff to clean. I think a bit of engine degreaser is probably the way to go, after I get it out of the frame.

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Old 02-01-2008, 03:27 PM   #144
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I see those reports are coming along nicely
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Old 02-02-2008, 05:57 AM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerg
I see those reports are coming along nicely
Quiet, you.
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Old 02-02-2008, 06:12 AM   #146
Stagehand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbasa
More stuff to clean. I think a bit of engine degreaser is probably the way to go, after I get it out of the frame.

Pshaw- thats got a long way to go before it needs cleaning


engine degreaser works pretty good. I am guilty of using it, but sparingly, as I cant actually wash it off too well.
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Old 02-02-2008, 06:25 AM   #147
Wirespokes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbasa
This bike got hit at some point prior to Greg owning it. It was put back together by Duncan at Duncan's Beemers in Maynard, MA, I believe. It got hit on the right side. From what I can see, it must have taken a shot right behind the carb because the shield around the output flange is JB welded back together. Additionally, the jug on that side isn't original.

It's not necessarily true it was hit near the carb. One of my bikes had been in a bad wreck with a cylinder ripped off. An aggressive drunk driver on the freeway (convicted of using a vehicle as a weapon) had rammed the rider out of the fast lane causing him to hit the center divider and flew over to the other side. He was in the hospital for a while but is fine. That bike also had a damaged trans output boot sealing lip like yours - though a big chunk was broken out, and the output shaft was bent. I figure there was enough force with the engine slowing suddenly that the output flange wobbled, and as you know, there isn't much space between that flange and the sealing lip.
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Old 02-02-2008, 07:34 AM   #148
Cogswell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbasa
This bike got hit at some point prior to Greg owning it. It was put back together by Duncan at Duncan's Beemers in Maynard, MA, I believe. It got hit on the right side. From what I can see, it must have taken a shot right behind the carb because the shield around the output flange is JB welded back together. Additionally, the jug on that side isn't original.


Mine had a small chunk out of the flange as well when I took it apart. I don't have any idea if the bike had been in a collision in its previous life. JB weld to the rescue for me too.

Mike
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Old 02-04-2008, 10:06 AM   #149
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Cleaning

Quote:
Originally Posted by kbasa
More stuff to clean. I think a bit of engine degreaser is probably the way to go, after I get it out of the frame.

Simple Green and Tina's toothbrush should do it Dave. Follow that up with some Comet and a scuff pad.
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Old 02-04-2008, 12:28 PM   #150
Curvy
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Soak that baby with WD-40 and hit it with a soft wire brush.
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