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Old 12-26-2007, 10:40 PM   #1
fmfpunk OP
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TDC locking bolt

Getting ready to check my valves, and wondering what's the purpose of this locking bolt.
Guessing that it's to hold the crank from moving while you have the cams out, because there's no TDC marks on the crank, only on the cams?

What can i use in place of this special tool?

thx.
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Old 12-26-2007, 11:13 PM   #2
cpmodem
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Before I had the locking bolt, I just used a long phillips screw driver.
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Old 12-26-2007, 11:51 PM   #3
Tim McKittrick
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Just make one- when you remove the bolt that fills the stop bolt hole in the right case take it by the hardware store and get one of the same thread pitch but about twice the length. Or, if you're like me, root about in the bins of crap in your workspace unti you find one. Then make a point on it with your grinder or a file. If you make it about a 30 degree taper it'll work just like the factory tool. Done! Add it to your tune up tools.
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Old 12-27-2007, 12:01 AM   #4
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If you want the official bolt, it's 0113080802. If you want to make your own, it's 8mm x 80mm x 1.25mm thread pitch. As Tim said, it has about a 30 degree point on one end, and is machined for a hex key in the other. But I'm sure a regular screwdriver slot would work too. Here's a pic...
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Old 12-27-2007, 08:41 AM   #5
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thx guys. I'll grind one here at work.

But would u explain why you need the bolt? If you don't uses the bolt is it possible to screw up cam timing?

thx.
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Old 12-27-2007, 08:59 AM   #6
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Yes it is possible, the valve springs pushing back from the "other" cylinder not being valve-checked can roll the crank. Spin the crank with a wrench and you will know what I mean.

If you do pull the cams be sure you understand the markings on the gears, they are not intuitive or easy to read, esp on the front cylinder. I mark the teeth with red paint to aid reassembly. Have fun, is not that tough a job!

Thread hijack: So whats the hot deal on FMF repacking for the 950? My Q's are getting loud!
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Old 12-27-2007, 09:59 AM   #7
tahoeacr
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I've done the valves at least three times and never bothered with it. Never had a problem. The only time I had a prob was when I had a degree wheel on the crank trying to check the lift of the cams. You could probably leave the bike in gear to add a little resistance.

Get that thing goin and let's go race the Adelanto GP and pester Paul. Tell him I said hi.
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Old 01-08-2008, 06:18 AM   #8
BLUE(UK)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VintageThumper
If you want the official bolt, it's 0113080802. If you want to make your own, it's 8mm x 80mm x 1.25mm thread pitch. As Tim said, it has about a 30 degree point on one end, and is machined for a hex key in the other. But I'm sure a regular screwdriver slot would work too. Here's a pic...
Thanks to VintageThumper for the pic,i made two using normal bolts of the correct thread and grinding a point on the end of each.
I have now done my valves-just need to rebuild it-anyway,i ordered the KTM bolt so i dont need the two i made(they work perfectly adequate),so if any UK people want one(there is 2 available),first 2 people to PM me their address gets one in the post.

Yep,FREE!!(KTM locking bolt is about 4quid and will most likely need ordering.

As i said,first 2 people.
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Old 02-29-2008, 11:35 AM   #9
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Why does it need to have angle in the point?

Can I use a screw on the correct dimension?
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Old 02-29-2008, 12:23 PM   #10
emelgee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Venturi
Why does it need to have angle in the point?
It'll make it easier to locate in the corresponding recess - the point will kind of guide it into the hole.
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Old 02-29-2008, 12:40 PM   #11
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Sometimes it is tough to get the crank to stop on TDC...

... especially on the rear cylinder (due to valve spring pressure forcing the crank past TDC). One trick I use when inserting the locking tool is bring the cylinder just short of TDC then insert a phillips screw driver or other pointed tool into the locking tool's hole and put slight pressure against the crank as I slowly turn the engine to TDC. That way I can feel the recess that the locking bolt needs to go into and stop the crank from slipping past. I then insert the locking tool. The top of the locking tool should be flush or slightly recessed with the engine case. Hope this helps some folks.


Should look like this:


NOT like this:
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DISCLAIMER: All observations made in this post are mine and based solely on my own anecdotal experiences, and may contain large doses of facetiousness. YMMV, of course. You are "on your own", and I take no responsibility if someone tries anything in this post and gets into trouble with the law, damages their person or property, or goes blind. Take everything you read or hear "anywhere" butt especially on the Web with a large dose of salt.


cpmodem screwed with this post 02-29-2008 at 12:59 PM Reason: Add an image
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Old 06-26-2010, 08:14 PM   #12
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Thanks a bunch

For everyone who contributed to this thread, I just like to say thanks. This as well as many other threads here are invaluable.

G
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Old 06-27-2010, 11:13 AM   #13
ridewestKTM
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TDC locking bolt

All said are good points - I made one out of aluminum so no chance of damaging things -good bad whatever it works. BUT as another thread discussed; what the hell do you do if you forget to back it off and turn the crank and either break or bend the bolt??? That'll ruin your day, week month. As said may be just don't use the bolt, and hope you can find TDC if it moves while you have a cam out. Here is what I think I'll do in future: Tie a lanyard between the lock bolt and my crank-turning tee -or some derivation of that scheme, so I can't turn the crank without at least making me think about the bolt.
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Old 07-31-2013, 06:39 PM   #14
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would this locking bolt work to stop the engine rotation to remove the ignition rotor ? i am using a manual torque wrench.
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Old 08-01-2013, 06:56 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 990adventuredes View Post
would this locking bolt work to stop the engine rotation to remove the ignition rotor ? i am using a manual torque wrench.
Yes.
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