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Old 09-18-2012, 11:35 PM   #1
ddowning OP
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help me with front fork decisions.

im a 220lb, 6'2" rider, and my KLR is seriously due for a major front fork overhaul. my bike brakedives like its going out of style, the fork seals are shot, and i finally have the time and coin to make some mods. So far, i've heard of switching to progressive springs, switching out spacers, and using a higher weight oil, as well as adding some air pressure. I'm looking for opinions as to what the right mix of these ingredients is to make the perfect cookie.

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Old 09-19-2012, 01:22 AM   #2
jon6.0
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What year KLR? That would help.

Searching this crazy thing called the internet yielded this:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=476255

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127835

http://klrworld.com/forums/your-next...949090f8c7e7ed
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jon6.0 screwed with this post 09-19-2012 at 01:27 AM
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Old 09-19-2012, 02:46 AM   #3
hoyks
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Springs are what actually carries the weight so beef up the springs. I used Racetech

Ricor Intiminators and 5wt oil.

That is all.
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:58 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoyks View Post
Springs are what actually carries the weight so beef up the springs. I used Racetech

Ricor Intiminators and 5wt oil.

That is all.
+1

and, maybe a fork brace
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:40 AM   #5
TNC
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I'd agree on the Progressive springs and the Ricor units. The fork is a ported orifice design and will never feel like a KX450 fork by any means. The Ricor setup is the simplest, easiest, and least expensive fix along with the springs. It did wonders for my '01 KLR. On the brace, I think these work fairly well on the earlier model forks, but I was surprised how stiff the newer generation KLR forks are with their redesign and bigger diameter. The earlier generation models are fairly wimpy.
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:45 AM   #6
ddowning OP
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Originally Posted by jon6.0 View Post
cool story bro, i was asking the question with special consideration to my particular weight.


it is a 2000, and i actually already do have a fork brace, so thats good. i think i will go with the Ricor Intiminators and the progressive springs. I've heard of using ATF fluid in the forks as opposed to fork oil. whats the upside/downside to this? cost?
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:55 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddowning View Post
cool story bro, i was asking the question with special consideration to my particular weight.


it is a 2000, and i actually already do have a fork brace, so thats good. i think i will go with the Ricor Intiminators and the progressive springs. I've heard of using ATF fluid in the forks as opposed to fork oil. whats the upside/downside to this? cost?
Depending on the exact ATF you'd use, it's usually a slightly heavier viscosity than the 5wt that was recommended with my Ricors. For the very little extra money for actual motorcycle suspension fluid, I'd recommend getting 5wt fork oil and be sure of what you have. Yes, not even all fork oils possess the same, exact viscosity ratings, but really...for the KLR fork it will probably be the best choice.
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Old 09-19-2012, 09:01 AM   #8
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Also ,Cogent dynamics offers front springs,and race tech offers emulators.
Just a few more options to consider.

Stick with fork oil in the forks and go with whatever weight ricor or racetech recommends for their valving.(probably 10 wt.)

You can play with different weight oils to help control rebound damping if you care to get that critical.

Your ricor or race tech valve adjustments will control compression damping.
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:50 AM   #9
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Klx

Correct springs (non Progessive) for your weight and a pair of Race Tech Emulators...
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Old 09-19-2012, 11:35 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddowning View Post
im a 220lb, 6'2" rider, and my KLR is seriously due for a major front fork overhaul. my bike brakedives like its going out of style, the fork seals are shot, and i finally have the time and coin to make some mods. So far, i've heard of switching to progressive springs, switching out spacers, and using a higher weight oil, as well as adding some air pressure. I'm looking for opinions as to what the right mix of these ingredients is to make the perfect cookie.

teach me, teachers.
Progressive Springs (#11-1151), 10wt oil and a fork brace worked for me.

I tried 15wt oil and it just made the forks too damn stiff.
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Old 09-19-2012, 11:54 AM   #11
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I have been told by those in the know to stay away from the progressive springs, but did not bother to ask why.
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Old 09-19-2012, 12:11 PM   #12
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I have been told by those in the know to stay away from the progressive springs, but did not bother to ask why.
They are probably right, I've only had good luck with them in the 60k+ miles I've put on my 2 KLRs since 1998...
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Old 09-19-2012, 12:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
I have been told by those in the know to stay away from the progressive springs, but did not bother to ask why.
I'm not hot on progressively wound springs for my dirt bikes, but I think the KLR's fork design and its weight benefit from them. I agree with Stu. I had them in 4 KLR's since the 80's, and they worked great.
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Old 09-19-2012, 02:31 PM   #14
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When used without any valving mods, like ca stu is talking about ,progressive springs work well because they help make up for the primitive damping in the stock forks.
But when the valving is upgraded with race tech parts like emulators, then alot of suspension builders want straight rate springs.
So basicly the progressive spring is like a band aid for lack of or inferior hydraulic valving.
And when a builder is modifying the hydraulic valving to properly do its job then he wants a straight rate spring.
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Old 09-19-2012, 03:14 PM   #15
CA Stu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
When used without any valving mods, like ca stu is talking about ,progressive springs work well because they help make up for the primitive damping in the stock forks.
But when the valving is upgraded with race tech parts like emulators, then alot of suspension builders want straight rate springs.
So basicly the progressive spring is like a band aid for lack of or inferior hydraulic valving.
And when a builder is modifying the hydraulic valving to properly do its job then he wants a straight rate spring.
Absolutely correct.

I think the absolute best solution to the woefully flimsy KLR front end is to swap forks with another bike. Link
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