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Old 02-01-2009, 06:11 AM   #1
Cigars&Scotch OP
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Heated grip switch GSPD

I having an issue with my heated grips on my 90 R100GSPD. It seems to only work at the left side of the switch. The right side does not get any current to the grips. I plugged my VOM where the grips plug into the wiring harness and did all my testing there. I see 12v when the switch is on the left position and see nothing on the right side. Mind you it has an off position in the middle.

I will order a new switch from Max with my large order that I am putting together. It appears that the switch must have the resistor built in as it's $42 just for the switch.

The question is has anyone taken this switch out before. It Seems that there is a reinforcement lugs that surround the back of the switch on the panel. I see that there are 2 locking clips in the picture on the fiche. I just don't want to use my ham fisted style and break something that can't be replaced.
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Old 02-01-2009, 06:35 AM   #2
Rob Farmer
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I think the switch connects the grips in parallel for full heat and series for low. No resistor in there as far as I'm aware.
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Old 02-01-2009, 07:43 AM   #3
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the switch doesn't switch parallel and series. It uses a higher resistance wire for low. the switch cord plugs into an extension that connects the two grips. I would check all those connections before ordering. the switch has a couple tangs that hold it in on the two short sides, if you can reach underside you may be able to squeeze them a bit.
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Old 02-01-2009, 08:15 AM   #4
Rob Farmer
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I'd have laid money on it being parallel/series connected. I had a K75 that had one grip that worked on hot but neither on low setting.

Still you seem pretty confident about it.
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Old 02-01-2009, 08:58 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfc
the switch doesn't switch parallel and series. It uses a higher resistance wire for low. the switch cord plugs into an extension that connects the two grips. I would check all those connections before ordering. the switch has a couple tangs that hold it in on the two short sides, if you can reach underside you may be able to squeeze them a bit.
I find this hard to believe. That would make the switch hot when running in low and I've never experienced that. It could use a ceramic resistor somewhere else on the bike but I've not noticed it.
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Old 02-01-2009, 10:05 AM   #6
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Quote:
That would make the switch hot when running in low and I've never experienced that.
As mentioned, there is a high resistance wire connected to the grip leads. That wire dissipates heat, not the switch.

The plastic tangs that hold the switch in the dash can be depressed from the underside of the dash with a long screwdriver or something similar. Do one side and get the switch cocked and partially out on that side, then do the other side. That's how I do it anyway.

-x3300

x3300 screwed with this post 02-01-2009 at 10:16 AM
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Old 02-01-2009, 10:46 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x3300
As mentioned, there is a high resistance wire connected to the grip leads. That wire dissipates heat, not the switch.

The plastic tangs that hold the switch in the dash can be depressed from the underside of the dash with a long screwdriver or something similar. Do one side and get the switch cocked and partially out on that side, then do the other side. That's how I do it anyway.

-x3300
There is actually a resistor wire enclosed as part of the wiring loom under the tank.
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Old 02-01-2009, 01:16 PM   #8
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Well it's fixed.

Lets go to the video tape



Managed to get the switch out with a small flat screw driver. Pushed in one side from under neath and then the other. Switch came out easier than I thought.




Here are the connectors in the loom. The black one is from the switch and the white one goes to the heated grips.





Here is the back side of the switch.





Here is the switch after I took it out and removed the black covering off to see it there was any issues.





Well this is not the way its suppose to be. Resoldered the green wire to the center or common post on the switch.




Now that the switch is fixed, I plugged it in and still no worky. I undid the tape holding the wireloom apart to figure out what was going on. Its a little tough to see but see the green/black wire going to the black connector, that is the feed. The brown wire with a loop is your ground wire. The orange wire is the resistor. It must be some sort of nichrome wire that heats up. I kind of fiqure that out by the crimp on connector. You can't solder nichrome and has to be mechanically connect. The system is pretty simple. SPDT switch that sends 12 v to either the black or the orande wire. The black wire will give you the full 12 volts and the orange wire will feed the nichrome and then into the black wire. Allt he voltage drop is done here. Only problem is that it still no worky. So much for theory.





Some thing is not right with this connector. It seems that the green and black are reversed. remember that the Green is the feed and the center tap on the switch. Now I don't know if this was an OEM screw up or a PO mod, but it aint going to work like this.





Ok do the easy thing and resolder the switch as I could not get the pins out of the switch. Plug it in and bingo it works.





Orange wire starts to heat up and I have about 9 volts going to the heated grips. The wire got to about 190 F after about 5 min. That is pretty hot and remember that is 30F out side temp and this wire is out in the open.





Started to retape up the wires and left the orange wire outside.




Wraped the wire with Kapton tape. This is a special tape that is used in PC boards when they go through a solder wave trough. It can resist up to about 300F and makes a good insulator.





Used 1 wrap to tape in the nichrome wire to the loom. Then I gave it 1 wrap of electrical tape.




Makes sense and was completely WRONG!!!. The heat now has no where to go and the temp started to sky rocket. I was reading temps as high as 260F in the loom. And the black tape started to melt. Ok time to rethink.




So I figure that i would get rid of the nichrome wire and place a ressitor at the switch where there was nothing around and has more ope air to keep cool than under a tank and surrounded by critical wires. I found the 2 ohm 10 watt ressistor and soldered it to the orange lead at the switch. This will now be the limiting factor on this side of the circuit.




I cut the nichrome wire off and then crimped it on to the black wires. In effect taking out the ressistance after the connector. The small peice of wire, about 1 in long will heat up but not as much as before. Remember that there is only about 9 volts coming down the wire before it gets to the small peice of nichrome. I retaped up the loom and left the small orange wire outside to be in air to keep it as coll as possible.



I put the switch back in and as you can see there is nothing around the ressistor. This should allow it to dissapate it heat with no problem.


Now I am happy.
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Old 02-01-2009, 02:23 PM   #9
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Excellent thread. I didn't know that's how it worked. I guess it's better to run the grips on high when needed then shut them off.
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Old 02-01-2009, 03:59 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigars&Scotch
Now I am happy.


So i have a question. Where does that orange resistor wire normally live? I was originally under the impression the resistor was in the switch, also.
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Old 02-01-2009, 08:05 PM   #11
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Hey Jason

No there is nothing in the switch. I thought that also and took it apart to see i there was something in there. It is just a switch, I even tested it with my ohm meter and had the same reading on both sides.

The nichrome wire sits in the wire harness after the black and white connectors. It is seperate from the main harness but right next to it on my bike. BMW uses cloth tape to wrap all there wire and I thing this lets it radiate heat better than black PVC electrical tape. I was really amazed at how much heat was being generated by this wire. I also had thought that if I ran with the grips on low, I was saving a couple of amps. Now I realize that all I was doing was heating up my harness.

I will look into a small switching power supply that puts out 8-9 volts. I could buy one from powerlet to regulate the grips, but really don't want to spend the $70 or so bucks on something I can make for a couple of bucks. I have made one for a remote camera that ran at 5v and the transmitter ran at 12v. It had a 3 cell Lipo that was about 12v and made a single chip circuit to drop it to 5v with no wasted heat. I think that 5v might not be enough juice for the grips on low.
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Old 02-01-2009, 08:54 PM   #12
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Too hot to handle

Would suggest you "enclose" the resistor that you have placed inline. This is the same situation as a dropping resistor used in older auto ignitions and the resistor can be a real hazard. Just my thoughts. Bill.
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Old 02-03-2009, 12:17 AM   #13
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Hi,
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Farmer
I'd have laid money on it being parallel/series connected.
... too bad I didn't reply earlier :-)

Indeed most of the cheaper heated grips use the parallel/series connection, but that has the disadvantage that you have either full power (1/1), or 1/4 of it (cf. Ohm's law, and/or http://jhau.maliwi.de/mot/hotgrip.htm). However, in most cases you will want something like "1/2" as the intermediate stage ... and this requires either a separate resistor, or some electronics.
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Old 02-03-2009, 07:12 AM   #14
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more detail on this thought please.

years ago i installed a set of heated grips, actually a few sets and the instructions were that the ceramic resistor needed to be out in the air for purposes of heat dissipation.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RecycledRS
Would suggest you "enclose" the resistor that you have placed inline. This is the same situation as a dropping resistor used in older auto ignitions and the resistor can be a real hazard. Just my thoughts. Bill.
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Old 02-03-2009, 08:05 AM   #15
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Guess I wasn't very clear in with my suggestion, sorry. By replacing the resitive wire with a resistor all the heat is now concentrated into one spot and not distibuted over a larger area. This resistor will get very hot and as such should be mounted or enclosed so as to protect surrounding wiring or components. If your confedent that this will not happen, your good to go! Bill.
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