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Old 01-14-2008, 09:40 PM   #16
meat popsicle
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You'd better fix yer spellin' before ChrisC gets here Doc...
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Old 01-14-2008, 09:54 PM   #17
cevquit
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Clutch rod adj. sweet spot

I found that with my 640E, manual clutch, that there is a sweet spot in the adjustment of the clutch rod, a off little either way and the nuetral to first shift is noticabley notchier.
Other wise its a LC4, if you push it just right it slips right in.
Or the hyd cluth needs a bleed.

Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by joekanter
- Sometimes I have a little difficulty getting the bike into 1st. Not sure, but it appears that if I let the clutch out just a bit, the bike will gently go into 1st and all is fine. Is this normal? .


If you are talking about the first time you drop it into first gear after it has been started cold and allowed to warm up; it is very typical for the engagement to be difficult and jerky due to the fact that the clutch plates are sort of stuck together with cold oil.

Getting into neutral, or into first, after you have been riding is never super smooth on a 640 but it should be nothing like the first shift of the day.
Like he said
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Old 01-14-2008, 10:51 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.BillyBA
Sorry Joe but none of these guys are telling you what is really wrong with your bike! When I had my LC4 and it did the exact same thing it ended up being the Kanueter Valve in the shifting mechanism. Its located right under the inner shift linkage below the chain line! Fix that and your shifting problems will be over!
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Old 01-15-2008, 03:10 AM   #19
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I also have an 07 640 Adventure, but the problem I have is that the clutch lever needs to be squeezed all the way against the bar to change gears. Using two fingers to engage the clutch is out of the question as the other two fingers prevent the lever from contacting the handle bar. Does someone make a shorter clutch lever for the 640. My local KTM dealer recommended just to cut 1-2 off the lever.


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Old 01-15-2008, 04:55 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlh62c
I also have an 07 640 Adventure, but the problem I have is that the clutch lever needs to be squeezed all the way against the bar to change gears. Using two fingers to engage the clutch is out of the question as the other two fingers prevent the lever from contacting the handle bar. Does someone make a shorter clutch lever for the 640. My local KTM dealer recommended just to cut 1-2 off the lever.


daryl
You've got a problem.
How's your clutch lever adjusted? It shouldn't need to come to the bar, and the lever has an adjuster for the take-up point. Your dealer sounds like a right cracker to me. Steer clear of them.
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Old 01-15-2008, 05:48 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle
You'd better fix yer spellin' before ChrisC gets here Doc...
?? If your referring to the Kanueter valve being spelled incorrectly I think Im in the right here? I've seen it spelled Kanooter but in the KTM parts book I think its spelled Kanueter?? Im sorrie fer any speallin airrers I may have maid!!
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Old 01-15-2008, 10:06 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.BillyBA
?? If your referring to the Kanueter valve being spelled incorrectly I think Im in the right here? I've seen it spelled Kanooter but in the KTM parts book I think its spelled Kanueter?? Im sorrie fer any speallin airrers I may have maid!!
Hey! I don't think we should discuss such a sensitive piece of equipment so lightly mister.
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Old 01-15-2008, 10:16 AM   #23
dlh62c
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GodSilla
You've got a problem.
How's your clutch lever adjusted? It shouldn't need to come to the bar, and the lever has an adjuster for the take-up point. Your dealer sounds like a right cracker to me. Steer clear of them.
The clutch lever adjusts for the size of the riders hands not for the clutch disengagement point. On my road king the clutch disengagement adjustment point is done down in the transmission by turning the adjusting screw on the clutch. Can the same type of adjustment be done on the KTM?

Sorry if I hijacked this thead. It wasn't my intended purpose.


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Old 01-15-2008, 10:57 AM   #24
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No hijack in my opinion. Thanks guys for the input. I'm curious now as to what is going on. Obviously need to let the bike break in. I also need to reproduce the weirdness on my next ride. I was hoping today. But there has been a freezing fog since last night and I really do not want to dump the bike.
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Old 04-21-2008, 12:19 PM   #25
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Update-

Hey guys. Well, 300 miles later-shifting into 1st from neutral seems a little better. But there still appears to be a sweat spot. Jeez-this bike is fun.
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Old 04-21-2008, 12:21 PM   #26
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this is fairly normal. as others suggested you could check the clutch is set properly if it really bothers you.
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Old 04-21-2008, 12:28 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loadedagain
this is fairly normal. as others suggested you could check the clutch is set properly if it really bothers you.

Beyond being obsessive compulsive-I try not to let things like this bother me. I'm in the research phase of learning how to check the clutch adjustment. I have a 2004 shop manual, checking it out now.

Thanks for posting.
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Old 04-22-2008, 04:50 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joekanter
Beyond being obsessive compulsive-I try not to let things like this bother me. I'm in the research phase of learning how to check the clutch adjustment. I have a 2004 shop manual, checking it out now.

Thanks for posting.
My 05 has one of the sweetest shifting gear boxes of any bike I have ever owned, none of the problems mentioned above, looks like whoever bolted it together at the factory got it right.
The clutch is hydraulic, nothing to adjust, besides making sure there is no air in the system.
The Red screw in the clutch lever is used to adjust the dis-engagement point, earlier or later in the throw of the lever and is more of a personal preference, the clutch should always dis-engage when the lever is pulled in fully. I have mine set to dis-engage with only a small movement of the lever.
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Old 04-22-2008, 06:55 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desmonc
The clutch is hydraulic, nothing to adjust, besides making sure there is no air in the system.
The Red screw in the clutch lever is used to adjust the dis-engagement point, earlier or later in the throw of the lever and is more of a personal preference, the clutch should always dis-engage when the lever is pulled in fully. I have mine set to dis-engage with only a small movement of the lever.
That's what I said. But then I got some guy describing his harley clutch
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Old 04-22-2008, 07:58 AM   #30
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While you are adjusting things, make sure that the shift lever itself is tight and adjusted correctly. If it is in too low of a position it will contact the footpeg bracket when trying to find first.

If you like the lever adjusted low, you can mark the spot of contact and grind /file a notch in the lever to give clearance.

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