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Old 11-08-2012, 10:18 AM   #5161
PCK_4xCustoms
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Back in the city :( Livonia MI
Oddometer: 262
looks good, ill give it a go when i get home if i can.
iirc the throttles were ok, but the clutch and decomp were getting close to max. cant remember if i routed behind the triple though
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PCK_4xCustoms screwed with this post 11-08-2012 at 10:20 AM Reason: smart phone? my ass..
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:44 AM   #5162
Wallrat
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@Ed

In stock form that tank bag isn't so hot. Got it here: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...Tank-Bag-Black

The tank side is cordura nylon, which I figured would scuff up the tank. Since I'm a tad OCD about keeping my bike as clean as possible I sewed a microfiber cloth to the underside. Still has the problem of no straps going under the tank so that's the current project. It's okay if there's fairly heavy stuff in the bags but if they're too light they flip up onto my legs while I ride. Its incredibly annoying. Here's another shot:
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:51 AM   #5163
Ed@Ford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallrat View Post
@Ed

In stock form that tank bag isn't so hot. Got it here: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...Tank-Bag-Black

The tank side is cordura nylon, which I figured would scuff up the tank. Since I'm a tad OCD about keeping my bike as clean as possible I sewed a microfiber cloth to the underside. Still has the problem of no straps going under the tank so that's the current project. It's okay if there's fairly heavy stuff in the bags but if they're too light they flip up onto my legs while I ride. Its incredibly annoying. Here's another shot:
Yup...exactly the issue I encountered....I ended up sewing a couple of "D" rings on the lower inner front corners of the bag, and lash it with some small diameter bungie stretch cord from the boat store

not wonderful...just functional...and being OCD is OK too
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:00 AM   #5164
Ed@Ford
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Location: Dearborn MI
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Yesterday got the swing arm bolt drilled out in far enough that the engine and swing arm is "free" from the frame. Cheap step drills from Harbor freight and some turned down shank 9/16 allowed me to drill out each end of the SA bolt. Today I stripped off everything that connects to the engine and the swing arm. A couple bounces and what was left of the tissue paper thick SA bolt just ripped and it's free. Gonna strap the frame my platform ATV jack and see how much the engine will move up and forward and tilt to the side to weasel the engine+swing arm out of the frame. If it does, I'll consider it an act of God. I think the sawzall will have to come to the rescue and "shorten" the swing arm. Fortunately I bought a used one. That's followed by the treat of getting the SA bolt out of the ass end of the crankcase. No pix though
I was able to weasel the engine with the swing arm attached out the right hand side of the frame. Had to cut up the swing arm though...and the alloy in the cast part of the swing arm must have loads of silicon....ate 3 sawzall blades and slashed it up like Doc did

Followed most of Dr. Lewall's guidelines after that....to get the last bit of bolt out of the rear of the crankcase required HEAT...especially on the steel bushing in the rear of the crankcase on the sprocket side....serious rust...once it moved a tad, I soaked it with aerokroil, then polished the part of the bolt that gets exposed when pounding it back and forth....back and forth, juice it up...pound some more...and it was out and done in 15 minutes or so

Talk about relieved. Thanks Doc L for documenting his repair process.
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Old 11-09-2012, 03:59 PM   #5165
DrLewall
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TADA!! Glad you got it out..now, plan on servicing that booger at least once a year! and if you sell it, tell the new owner to do the same, or not
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Old 11-09-2012, 04:31 PM   #5166
Ed@Ford
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TADA!! Glad you got it out..now, plan on servicing that booger at least once a year! and if you sell it, tell the new owner to do the same, or not
Yup...that sucker is gonna get plenty-o-lube, and the whole bike will get cleaned up and given a once over.

Noticed my replacement carb choke plate has 2 very significant sized slotted holes in it....has anyone seen one that is blank or a more appropriate size for a 400 engine?
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Old 11-09-2012, 04:40 PM   #5167
DrLewall
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does the choke plate have the backfire plates on it or does the choke plate just have two holes, like the XRsonly choke plate?



here are the backfire plates



so, is yours like any of these posted above?

btw, I have the XRsonly plate in mine..my backfire plates were abt to fall off and I didnt want to suck anything into the jug...knowatimean?
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Old 11-09-2012, 04:51 PM   #5168
Ed@Ford
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Mine is like the red one...I went back over the thread and Laramie C4 said 7/32"...DAMN that's small....but nows the time to deal with it...the carb is laying on my garage floor!!...gotta go out there and check to see if it's steel or not......
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:34 PM   #5169
Bullamakanka
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The "Red" one is the one you want to use. The other ones have a tendency to snap the metal flap off which then decides to enter the cylinder head causing all sorts of expensive issues. Hence the XR's only red one is a modified version to address this issue.
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:38 PM   #5170
Tachedoutoffroad
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Location: Alabama
Oddometer: 602
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallrat View Post
@Ed



Great looking bike

-Is that just high temp paint on motor?
-did you make the front fender smaller? Not the holes, but overall?
-trim the rear fender?
-CRF forks?

I need to paint my wheels black. Mine looks retro as fuk. The purple adds 3hp though

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Old 11-09-2012, 08:56 PM   #5171
Wallrat
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Thanks. Its been a good bike and gets a lot of attention.

Just used Engine Enamel 400 for the engine, 2000 on the pipe: http://www.duplicolor.com/products/enginePaint/

Front fender shown there is an acerbis supermoto:
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...Fender-YZ-Blue

I couldn't ever get used to the 17" radius of the fender with a 21" wheel so I ended up swapping it out to a regular CRF450 one which I had to trim a few inches off the back of it to clear the frame.

Rear fender is just the standard XR400 one from Polisport: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...6-Honda-XR400R

Yep, 450 forks with the Emig conversion stem: http://www.emigracing.com/CRX46.htm

Can see all the parts I've used listed here: http://2wheelsplz.blogspot.com/2012/...fications.html
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Old 11-10-2012, 10:18 AM   #5172
Tachedoutoffroad
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Cool. Thanks.


Showing off my noob dirt riding skills I'll go ahead and blame go pros hill detamer, bald tires, slick Alabama clay, and my wife bitching at me for being gone so long

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86M3N...e_gdata_player

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w61Rk...e_gdata_player
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Old 11-10-2012, 03:24 PM   #5173
tonusmaximus
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Location: nky
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My Xr won't idle down all the way to the set idle speed without a snap of throttle. I replaced the exhaust inset but it was doing it before. Really haven't gotten into the bikes mechanics yet as its a good wild ride since I've had it but this seems to be a problem since it doesn't slow the bike down for lights and big turns. Thanks ahead people.
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Old 11-10-2012, 06:17 PM   #5174
tonusmaximus
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it idles down but just to 1800 rpm or so without snapping it. snap throttle it goes to around 1400 where i want it. it wont go down anymore while pushing down on the wheel where cables meet on carb with screw driver so i believe cables are ok. carb coming off soon to check jetting and cleaning plus choke plate. could this scenario happen with jetting off?

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:35 PM   #5175
Wallrat
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More than likely its your cable adjustment at the carb. The adjustment up on the bars is just for fine tuning.
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