The XR400 Thread

[Wallrat]

More than likely its your cable adjustment at the carb. The adjustment up on the bars is just for fine tuning.

[tonusmaximus]

Tried adjusting it at carb and even with cables loose it does same thing. Gonna try to drop needle down a notch and see if that helps. 70* her tomorrow and wifey will be gone so I need to ride her.

[mark1150]

Originally Posted by tonusmaximus

Tried adjusting it at carb and even with cables loose it does same thing. Gonna try to drop needle down a notch and see if that helps. 70* her tomorrow and wifey will be gone so I need to ride her.

Is this a recent development or has the throttle always responded this way?
If it's the former and behaves this way with the cables loose at the carb end i.e. the cables have no influence over the idle or opperation , I'd be looking for a sticky needle or slide caused by either wear or dirt.
The latter leads you back to the above, however if the cables still have an influence it could be a sticky cable, either dirt, inc rust, or even a twist of cable starting to come adrift?
Either way good luck with the repair, I hope you get it sorted soon.

[tonusmaximus]

thanks people. ill pull it off and give a look see at those suggestions. these are the reasons I need more than one dirt bikes! So I aint wrenchin when its nice! Im always figuring out how to collect more of em. He He

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[Clem Kevin]

Originally Posted by tonusmaximus

thanks people. ill pull it off and give a look see at those suggestions. these are the reasons I need more than one dirt bikes! So I aint wrenchin when its nice! Im always figuring out how to collect more of em. He He

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Mine has done the same thing as long as I've owned it. I've tried a few different things and just have learned to deal with it.

[tonusmaximus]

Originally Posted by Clem Kevin

Mine has done the same thing as long as I've owned it. I've tried a few different things and just have learned to deal with it.

did more research and it was stated the bike may be running too rich still. havent pulled plug to check it since i havent a thin wall socket. hope that helps. its aggrivating as all get out.

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[Wilson9068]

Hi all, a query for all those who have upgraded a European XR400r with a 200w Ricky Stator. Fitted the stator from a mechanical perspective no problem. Only problem I now have is the wiring. My stock XR400R wiring harness has a 6 pin plug into which the stator plugs into. From the stock wiring harness I have....

Blue/Yellow
Green
Pink
Yellow
White/Yellow

The Ricky Stator however has...

Blue/Yellow
Green/White
Green x 2 (1 Bullet, 1 Spade)
White x 2 (1 Bullet, 1 Spade)

I intend running two 100w circuits, which is what the spades are for. I think this therefore leaves me to work out what the Ricky Stator Green/White plugs into, a which of the stock wires are redundant(?)

All pretty complicated to explain via a forum but if anyone has a wiring diagram they would be happy to share it would be greatly appreciated.

[Ed@Ford]

Originally Posted by Wilson9068

Hi all, a query for all those who have upgraded a European XR400r with a 200w Ricky Stator. Fitted the stator from a mechanical perspective no problem. Only problem I now have is the wiring. My stock XR400R wiring harness has a 6 pin plug into which the stator plugs into. From the stock wiring harness I have....

Blue/Yellow
Green
Pink
Yellow
White/Yellow

The Ricky Stator however has...

Blue/Yellow
Green/White
Green x 2 (1 Bullet, 1 Spade)
White x 2 (1 Bullet, 1 Spade)

I intend running two 100w circuits, which is what the spades are for. I think this therefore leaves me to work out what the Ricky Stator Green/White plugs into, a which of the stock wires are redundant(?)

All pretty complicated to explain via a forum but if anyone has a wiring diagram they would be happy to share it would be greatly appreciated.

From a USA wiring diagram:

Blue/Yellow and Green are ignition pulse generator
Pink & Yellow go to the AC regulator...in other words, the 60 watts or so of AC

Brown and Blue/Red go off to the ignition box....this is different from what you have

I'd suggest you look at the colors going INTO and out of your ignition module...two colors should be two colors coming out of the alternator, as we have a 2 pin pair for the ignition and 4 feeding the AC regulator and the ignition module...I'm betting your 5th pin runs a DC system

I recently visited vendors (Electrex, Ricky Stator, and Baja Designs) on the web selling 200 watt alternators...and they have diagrams of how to use the 2 100 watt outputs, and pinouts....I seem to recall one pair feeds the stock XR AC regulator, and the other pair feed a voltage regulator/rectifyer to make DC to fill a battery, and run DC accessories...like lights, heated grips or heated clothing

I don't think there are any that are redundant because as I also seem to recall, the european/japanese XR400s are 1/2 AC and 1/2 DC

Ricky stator wiring here: http://www.rickystator.com/04technic...da/RSXR400.pdf

Baja here: http://www.bajadesigns.com/docs/tech...und-stator.pdf

[Wilson9068]

Originally Posted by Ed@Ford

From a USA wiring diagram:

Blue/Yellow and Green are ignition pulse generator
Pink & Yellow go to the AC regulator...in other words, the 60 watts or so of AC

Brown and Blue/Red go off to the ignition box....this is different from what you have

I'd suggest you look at the colors going INTO and out of your ignition module...two colors should be two colors coming out of the alternator, as we have a 2 pin pair for the ignition and 4 feeding the AC regulator and the ignition module...I'm betting your 5th pin runs a DC system

I recently visited vendors (Electrex, Ricky Stator, and Baja Designs) on the web selling 200 watt alternators...and they have diagrams of how to use the 2 100 watt outputs, and pinouts....I seem to recall one pair feeds the stock XR AC regulator, and the other pair feed a voltage regulator/rectifyer to make DC to fill a battery, and run DC accessories...like lights, heated grips or heated clothing

I don't think there are any that are redundant because as I also seem to recall, the european/japanese XR400s are 1/2 AC and 1/2 DC

Ricky stator wiring here: http://www.rickystator.com/04technic...da/RSXR400.pdf

Baja here: http://www.bajadesigns.com/docs/tech...und-stator.pdf

Ed@Ford thanks for your reply. I have since been in touch with Mike at Ricky Stator who has been very accommodating with my queries. First things first, if you have a euro bike and purchase a RS ask for a euro connector to be put on it. This is a service they offer.

Mike sent me through the wiring diagram as follows.

RS Brown - Brown Stock
RS Black/Red - Black/Red Stock
RS Blue/Yellow - Blue/Yellow Stock
RS Green/Red - Green
RS Green bullet - Ground to Frame
RS White Bullet- White/Yellow Stock
RS Green Spade - Pink Stock
RS White Spade - Yellow Stock

This then outputs 200w to a single circuit. Thanks again to Mike for his patience with me.

[Ed@Ford]

Nice to know Mike/Ricky Stator is a good provider

[DrLewall]

Ed..you and I were discussing starting issues..well today I decided to fire up the XR..if it sits for a while, it is hard to start, duh..well it's been sitting abt 3 or 4 weeks so I knew I was going be in for a tough time..I was ready to bump start it on a down hill section if need be.

So I go thru my "procedure"..prime kick 15 times, WOT..a couple of hard kick and nuttin..agn, prime kick another 15 times, WOT..got a little burp out of her..this time, prime kick WOT 10 times, she fires up!

Now that she has been fired up, and ridden a little today, as long as I start it once per day, it will fire up from cold with 5 prime kicks and one hard kick..but if she sits for a week or two, then I have to do the procedure above..nature of the beast I guess, but still not enough for me to get ride of it. I can always figure out a way to get'er runnin!

[Ed@Ford]

Originally Posted by DrLewall

Ed..you and I were discussing starting issues..well today I decided to fire up the XR..if it sits for a while, it is hard to start, duh..well it's been sitting abt 3 or 4 weeks so I knew I was going be in for a tough time..I was ready to bump start it on a down hill section if need be.

So I go thru my "procedure"..prime kick 15 times, WOT..a couple of hard kick and nuttin..agn, prime kick another 15 times, WOT..got a little burp out of her..this time, prime kick WOT 10 times, she fires up!

Now that she has been fired up, and ridden a little today, as long as I start it once per day, it will fire up from cold with 5 prime kicks and one hard kick..but if she sits for a week or two, then I have to do the procedure above..nature of the beast I guess, but still not enough for me to get ride of it. I can always figure out a way to get'er runnin!

You don't use the "cable extended throttle stop screw" to open the throttle about a turn? .... then put it back to a normal idle speed once it warms up?

Regardless....it's inspirational to have a consistent start process.

[DrLewall]

Originally Posted by Ed@Ford

You don't use the "cable extended throttle stop screw" to open the throttle about a turn? .... then put it back to a normal idle speed once it warms up?

Regardless....it's inspirational to have a consistent start process.

oh yes..I forgot to say that I give the idle screw a turn or two..then after it warms up and is idling high, I just turn it down a skoosh

[Ed@Ford]

Originally Posted by DrLewall

oh yes..I forgot to say that I give the idle screw a turn or two..then after it warms up and is idling high, I just turn it down a skoosh

Sweet....Thanks...Ed

[NSFW]

Originally Posted by DrLewall

a friend of mine has that tool and one of these days, I am going to go over there with a piece of SCH 40 pvc 1" and make me a copy of that tool..to the OP question, yes, you will need that special tool to reach in from the top down into the fork to put a hold on the slotted washer down there to undo the bolt in the bottom leg, and you will need that tool to put it back together.

$14.99 clearance sale

p/n 08-0223

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0223/


that's less expensive than mine

Originally Posted by NSFW

get a 1" EMT conduit tubing, 1.163 diameter, .060" wall thickness



cut/machine 2 teeth. .25" wide and .25" high





it's cheap but functional.