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Old 02-15-2013, 05:25 PM   #5506
Ed@Ford
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There is a long carburetor article in the March '13 MCN on the Keihin CRF pumper carb...they discuss at length the accelerator pump and how to make the pumpshot smaller (in terms of fuel quantity) and how to make it quicker...its fairly old info that has been discussed on thumpertalk for years....but here it's all down in 1 place...they do not discuss "timing" of the pump shot...but it is really a secondary effect. I got into all this CRF business when I went to the dark side (KTM)....then I sold the KTM, kept my XR and made it a 440...putting a CRF on an XR is possible....but I gave up on the mess of it all, as doing it all required frame notching....and I didn't want to go there.
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Old 02-15-2013, 05:45 PM   #5507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kito View Post
Hi thanks for the reply .I have a friend who went 2up with his better half on a xr400 from UK to morocco on it so the bike can take some weight on the back . I will weld up some gussets ect to add some strenth to the frame . I have had tony archer do the seat on my BMW x challenge and am happy so I would get him to do the same again on the XR. I have a lot of mods in mind if I do go ahead with getting an XR so might just do a bike build thread.
I have read that quite a lot of people change the carb . What sort of MPG will I be getting with a different carb ?

You sure seem to know what you are doing.

I have not heard of anyone replacing the carb for better MPG. I would keep the stock carb for travels as it works fine and is dead simple to work on if needed, even by the side of the road.

FYI - I have had to repair my subframe twice, no luggage but lots of off-road.

IMHO, the stock gearing (15/45) has a "sweet spot" at around 82-84 kmph on the blacktop. I don't know the exact rpm's but it just feels right, the engine spins happily, the vibration is low, etc. 90 kmph is fine also, but if I donīt concentrate on keeping the speed up, I always end up at 82-84 as it feels nice. I did test a 40t rear (for 15/40) and probably would use that gearing for extended blacktop riding.

This winter I have been setting my XR4 up for longer rides next summer. IMHO the ability to change positions while riding on the blacktop is critical (comfort). Usually I use the buddy pegs, but my XR4 does not have them, so I made some "highway pegs" as seen in the pic. The work very well. If you make some highway pegs, be sure to make them foldable (important when off-roading).

I would keep the engine stock for travels. The bike has enough power. You wont be braking any speed records anyway, touring on a lightweight dirtbike. Reliability is key.

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Old 02-15-2013, 07:06 PM   #5508
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OK sent through the index and didnt see quick list to this.

Whats the seemingly "right" spark plug that these things like the most? NGK Iridium?

I've got my parts order list nearly complete just need this to have it shipped.
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:44 PM   #5509
blitchfield
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Alright folks, I tried thread index and the search tool this time but still didn't see what I am looking for.
I have a 99 xr400r which I got plated last year. The other week I was running on an open stretch of pavement at almost WOT. The clutch(?) seemed to have slipped in fifth gear, I felt the loss of power and the motor revved up, it did this twice quickly back-to-back before I had backed off the throttle. I pulled over for a minute and then continued on being mindful not to push so much. No trouble for the next 45 minutes of road riding. My question(s) is/are

1 Am I likely looking at needing a new clutch? It is the original
2 Should I be looking elsewhere? I changed to synthetic oil last spring, should I try heavier oil first?

My past experience with a burnt/shot clutch was the bike wouldn't do anything in any gear


Any and all insight is appreciated, Thank guys!!
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Old 02-15-2013, 10:46 PM   #5510
Luke
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re: clutch

First check to make sure there's some free play at the clutch lever. Then I'd pop open the clutch cover and check the plates. It's really easy. Make sure they look ok and measure the plate thickness. There's a spec for minimum thickness in the manual. There's also a spec for the length of the clutch springs. They wear out too.

If the clutch worked right after you put the new oil in it then it's probably not the oil. When I tried synthetic (Rotella) in mine the clutch got grabby right after the oil change. It went away immediately after I changed it out with dino. You could try swapping oils, but it's easier to inspect the clutch than to do an oil change.
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Old 02-16-2013, 04:37 AM   #5511
kito
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
My XR440 has the stock carburetor, 11:1 CR, and likes premium....It generally gets 50 mpg, as long as you stay under 65mph...give it regular gas, and you surely CAN'T lug it without getting knock..especially in hot weather....but if you have to burn the low octane just be smooth o the throttle and don't lug it, and it'll get you to a station where you can add some premium and dilute the regular....oh and these are US 4 quart gallons, not inperial 5 quart gallons
thanks for that info . sounds like you have a nice motor in your bike but for what I have planed I need more reliability ( to many photos of 440 self distruction ) for my trip. ( about 25,000 miles )
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Old 02-16-2013, 06:21 AM   #5512
DrLewall
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke View Post
First check to make sure there's some free play at the clutch lever. Then I'd pop open the clutch cover and check the plates. It's really easy. Make sure they look ok and measure the plate thickness. There's a spec for minimum thickness in the manual. There's also a spec for the length of the clutch springs. They wear out too.

If the clutch worked right after you put the new oil in it then it's probably not the oil. When I tried synthetic (Rotella) in mine the clutch got grabby right after the oil change. It went away immediately after I changed it out with dino. You could try swapping oils, but it's easier to inspect the clutch than to do an oil change.
ALSO...before you take the clutch apart, check to make sure that who ever had the bike before you didnt install the clutch plates wrong (yes it does happen and it happened to me)..the outermost clutch plate has to be in it own groove by its self in the clutch basket..it's so easy to line all the plates up in the same notch/groove..the last plate has to be by it's self in its own notch.

good luck
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Old 02-16-2013, 01:51 PM   #5513
aaron2a
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When I take of really fast sometimes it will start to grab the next gear but then it will jerk and sometimes it will grab the gear I tried to shift to and other times it will shift back down. Any idea how to fix it or is it just me messing up?

And if it matters I ride a 97 xr400 no engine mods.
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Old 02-16-2013, 02:33 PM   #5514
DrLewall
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Clutch Plate install

With all this talk on clutches and such, here are some pix to help clear up any confusion as to correctly installing the clutch plates.

It is real easy to inspect your clutch, just remove the side cover and look to see if the plates are correctly installed, and if they are not, real easy to loosen up the bolts and pull the inner plate out and move the top plate over one notch.


Correct




WRONG!!

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Old 02-16-2013, 04:02 PM   #5515
Ed@Ford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron2a View Post
When I take of really fast sometimes it will start to grab the next gear but then it will jerk and sometimes it will grab the gear I tried to shift to and other times it will shift back down. Any idea how to fix it or is it just me messing up?

And if it matters I ride a 97 xr400 no engine mods.
I don't know about anyone else but it sounds like maybe a bent shifter fork. I've never experienced ANY transmission issues on my XR400R, but my buddy had something very similar on his KLR650....and he let it go too long, it engaged 2 gears at once, and he ended up with a big bang & $$$$$$ crumbles in his crankcase that required splitting the cases and many new parts.

BUT, having said this, follow Dr Lewall's lead as he seems to know his XR4's inside and out, and his diagnoses and fixes have been spot on with every screw up I've had on my XR4
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Old 02-16-2013, 04:38 PM   #5516
DrLewall
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
I don't know about anyone else but it sounds like maybe a bent shifter fork. I've never experienced ANY transmission issues on my XR400R, but my buddy had something very similar on his KLR650....and he let it go too long, it engaged 2 gears at once, and he ended up with a big bang & $$$$$$ crumbles in his crankcase that required splitting the cases and many new parts.

BUT, having said this, follow Dr Lewall's lead as he seems to know his XR4's inside and out, and his diagnoses and fixes have been spot on with every screw up I've had on my XR4
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Old 02-16-2013, 05:22 PM   #5517
tbarstow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrLewall View Post
Correct



Looks like I need to go check my clutch.

tbarstow screwed with this post 02-16-2013 at 05:43 PM
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Old 02-16-2013, 05:40 PM   #5518
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron2a View Post
When I take of really fast sometimes it will start to grab the next gear but then it will jerk and sometimes it will grab the gear I tried to shift to and other times it will shift back down. Any idea how to fix it or is it just me messing up?

And if it matters I ride a 97 xr400 no engine mods.
The plates in the incorrect orientation shouldn't keep the clutch from working, it's not optimal though. To me it definately sounds like shift mechanism, could be something as easy as a broke detent spring or as complex as the shift fork which requires splitting the cases. I'd check the whole system starting at the easiest first, shifter to the shift shaft, is it tight? Then remove the small clutch cover and check the plates (doubt that's it though) From there pull the larger sidecover (clutch side) and check over the linkage below the clutch basket paying close attention to the spring loaded roller arm that meets up with the gear detents located at the end of the shift drum.

The fact that it's jumping to a lowergear tells me it's not staying in it's detent for the current gear. A prob with the detent will also cause it to jump in and out of gear. Don't ride it like it is, that type of prob will trash the dogs on the gears if it hasn't already. Good Luck
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Old 02-16-2013, 10:14 PM   #5519
SR6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G600 View Post
You sure seem to know what you are doing.

IMHO, the stock gearing (15/45) has a "sweet spot" at around 82-84 kmph on the blacktop. I don't know the exact rpm's but it just feels right, the engine spins happily, the vibration is low, etc. 90 kmph is fine also, but if I donīt concentrate on keeping the speed up, I always end up at 82-84 as it feels nice. I did test a 40t rear (for 15/40) and probably would use that gearing for extended blacktop riding.
For long distances on the road I use 16/40 combination. takes the "sweet spot" to about 100km/h.

And.... a better seat!!!
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Old 02-17-2013, 02:19 AM   #5520
mark1150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrLewall View Post
ALSO...before you take the clutch apart, check to make sure that who ever had the bike before you didnt install the clutch plates wrong (yes it does happen and it happened to me)..the outermost clutch plate has to be in it own groove by its self in the clutch basket..it's so easy to line all the plates up in the same notch/groove..the last plate has to be by it's self in its own notch.

good luck
Those pictures (above) speak a thousand words, when I read the original post I couldn't figure out where you were coming from.
Thanks for taking the time to make things clear.
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