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Old 02-20-2013, 04:53 PM   #5551
Luke
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Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Idiotville, OR
Oddometer: 4,035
Mine had a sweet spot at 67-68 with the stock gearing. 15-45. It really didn't like going over 70, though. Now? not so much, it's got 14-48 on it.

I rode down 101 from SF once, it was nice. Taking 99 back up sucked. I-5? no thanks.
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:02 PM   #5552
hughrk
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Scotland
Oddometer: 64
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke View Post
Mine had a sweet spot at 67-68 with the stock gearing. 15-45. It really didn't like going over 70, though. Now? not so much, it's got 14-48 on it.

I rode down 101 from SF once, it was nice. Taking 99 back up sucked. I-5? no thanks.
You want 16/39 gearing for road work and the motor will still be revving way to high but it will survive, its an xr!
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:35 PM   #5553
roadracer
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Location: San Francisco
Oddometer: 331
67-68mph cruising? Thats moooore than enough for baja.

Thanks guys
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:15 AM   #5554
xradam
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Wimmera, VIC, Australia
Oddometer: 8
Clutch not engaging

I've been through and read all previous history on clutch issues. Does anyone have a simple solution to a clutch that doesnt engage. I have just been playing around putting new sprockets on and had been manually changing gears (without the engine running) and dont know if I've hurt something because now as soon as I hit the gear lever, its straight into gear and pulling in the clutch does nothing. Any suggestions would be great seeing as I have no experience at all when it comes to the clutch side of things.
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:49 AM   #5555
Ed@Ford
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Joined: Jan 2004
Location: Dearborn MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xradam View Post
I've been through and read all previous history on clutch issues. Does anyone have a simple solution to a clutch that doesnt engage. I have just been playing around putting new sprockets on and had been manually changing gears (without the engine running) and dont know if I've hurt something because now as soon as I hit the gear lever, its straight into gear and pulling in the clutch does nothing. Any suggestions would be great seeing as I have no experience at all when it comes to the clutch side of things.
Soooo...do you mean it drops into gear and you try to push the bike and the rear wheel won't turn with the engine not running? Then you squeeze in on the clutch, and it still won't move? If that is the case, the clutch plates have squeezed all of the oil out between them and they are essentially stuck to each other....try rocking the bike back and forth...it ought to break loose...if not the clutch cable is broke, out of adjustment or something.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:02 PM   #5556
xradam
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Yeah I had the chain off at the time and with the bike running and holding the clutch in, as soon as you click down from neutral to first, it throws into gear before even letting the clutch out. Then pulling the clutch lever in doesnt stop the drive until I get it back into neutral. Pretty sure the clutch cable is still doing its job?
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:20 PM   #5557
Ed@Ford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xradam View Post
Yeah I had the chain off at the time and with the bike running and holding the clutch in, as soon as you click down from neutral to first, it throws into gear before even letting the clutch out. Then pulling the clutch lever in doesnt stop the drive until I get it back into neutral. Pretty sure the clutch cable is still doing its job?
Gotta put that chain on and see if what I said is going on
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:46 PM   #5558
DrLewall
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Drakes Creek, AR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
Gotta put that chain on and see if what I said is going on
^^ This...anytime there is no resistance on the drive sprocket, it will turn..this is how I lube my chain..will start the bike, pull in clutch and put in in 1st gear..lean bike over on side stand and the wheel will spin with the clutch pulled in..I then spray chain wax on the chain as it goes around..set bike back down and wheel stops spinning..shift to neutral and shut it off.

The weight of the bike will allow the clutch to do its job, but there is still enough friction against the plates to turn the wheel if there is no weight on the rear wheel.
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Old 02-21-2013, 06:23 PM   #5559
KilLeR Kawasaki
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Littleton, Colorado
Oddometer: 921
A few shots of my recent efforts...

New Wheel Bearings, chain, sprockets, wheel spacers, cleaned all the linkage and swing arm bearings and regreased. Looking forward to riding this Spring! Oh yea, new brake rotor and pads too...







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Old 02-22-2013, 03:35 AM   #5560
DrLewall
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Looks good! and I see you greased the pivot bolt!

but where is your case saver?

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Old 02-22-2013, 09:33 AM   #5561
KilLeR Kawasaki
Marky A
 
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Littleton, Colorado
Oddometer: 921
Not buttoned up yet. I may put on the 13 tooth before I do. I need to make a tool so I replace the fork seals. Do you know where I'd find specs for that?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DrLewall View Post
Looks good! and I see you greased the pivot bolt!

but where is your case saver?

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Old 02-22-2013, 11:17 AM   #5562
MartiniUp
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: TX
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Originally Posted by DrLewall View Post
Looks good! and I see you greased the pivot bolt!

but where is your case saver?

Ever the vigilant one!
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:24 AM   #5563
Stretch67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KilLeR Kawasaki View Post
Not buttoned up yet. I may put on the 13 tooth before I do. I need to make a tool so I replace the fork seals. Do you know where I'd find specs for that?
You mean to get the sliders off the fork tubes? TrailRyder has it in here:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/955...ion-stack-mod/

Quote:
you'll need to make a tool to hold the damper. I made mine out of an 18" length of 1"id black pipe. You can pick up precut pieces of that length at any place like Lowes. I cut one end to leave two 1/4" wide tabs, 180* apart. In my picture, I left the pipe threads on that end. Lazy I guess. On your tool, cut them off, then cut for your tabs. In the other end, I drilled a hole to stick a screwdriver thru for leverage in holding the tool from spinning.
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:34 PM   #5564
KilLeR Kawasaki
Marky A
 
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Littleton, Colorado
Oddometer: 921
Thank you, just what I needed!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch67 View Post
You mean to get the sliders off the fork tubes? TrailRyder has it in here:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/955...ion-stack-mod/



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Old 02-23-2013, 02:57 PM   #5565
JimmieA
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Joined: Sep 2005
Location: Eastern Canada
Oddometer: 1,182
I am toying with the idea of getting an extra set of rims for supermotard for my XR400R. I have searched here but no results. Anyone have experience with this. I don't want to spend a fortune on this.

I now have more or less two kits to convert the bike to electric start. I got the crank extension from a company is Switzerland. It looks like it needs a different bearing for the ring gear, need to look into this next week. Anyone know the deal on this?
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