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Old 04-06-2013, 09:22 PM   #5746
Schlug
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch67 View Post
I replied on TT, but here it is again for our live studio audience...


You know you're supposed to check the stick within a couple minutes of shutting off the engine, right?

If there are no leaks and you weren't fogging the area with clouds of smoke, I believe your oil is still in the bike, merely down in the engine.

Take the bike for a five-minute ride around the neighborhood, then shut it down and check the stick (bike upright and level) after about a minute.
I concur. Getting a true reading on an XR 400 isn't that hard but it is easy to get it wrong and overfill. Happens all the time.

Ride it for 5 or 10, make sure it's hot, shut it down and check the level. Make sure the bike is level. I usually roll up, take off my helmet and gloves and grab a rag off the workbench-- all while still on the bike-- and then check the dipstick.

I had an XR that had rings and cylinder worn so badly I was shooting droplets of oil out of the exhaust-- my camelback is silent witness to this, and I didn't lose that much oil. I would go through about half a quart in 4 hours of riding.

A new 416 Wiseco piston and cylinder bore, cam chain and valves, valve guides and seals and the bike runs like a dream.
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"So what makes this protest different is that you're set to die, Bobby?"
--May well come to that.
"You start a hunger strike to protest for what you believe in. You don't start already determined to die or am I missing somethin' here?"
-- It's in their hands. Our message is clear. They're seeing our determination.
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Old 04-06-2013, 09:23 PM   #5747
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Originally Posted by DrLewall View Post
I just got done replacing the original clutch cable on the XR..not likely that Larry replaced it when he had it 15 yrs ago and I have never replaced it. That cable is 17 years old, not bad eh..got my monies worth out of it, anyway, MUCH BETTER! Clutch is very smooth and easy to pull..the friction point is different tho so I will have to get use to that..at first it kinda threw me off a bit. I almost launched the XR as the friction point came on real quick! I can adapt!

I am ready for the hillbilly run
I replaced mine with a Motion Pro and promptly broke that. Never again. Stock Honda for Bobby.
__________________
"So what makes this protest different is that you're set to die, Bobby?"
--May well come to that.
"You start a hunger strike to protest for what you believe in. You don't start already determined to die or am I missing somethin' here?"
-- It's in their hands. Our message is clear. They're seeing our determination.
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Old 04-06-2013, 09:27 PM   #5748
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Just picked up this 1998 xr400 for $750 not running. It sat for a few years and the carb slide was siezed. Brought it home, cleaned the carb and started up after quite a few kicks!!! Now I am ordering some parts for it.
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Old 04-06-2013, 09:55 PM   #5749
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:09 AM   #5750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drtdino View Post

Just picked up this 1998 xr400 for $750 not running. It sat for a few years and the carb slide was siezed. Brought it home, cleaned the carb and started up after quite a few kicks!!! Now I am ordering some parts for it.


some guys have all the luck!

awesome tho!
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:33 AM   #5751
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[QUOTE=BobbySands;21126829]I concur. Getting a true reading on an XR 400 isn't that hard but it is easy to get it wrong and overfill.

I love when people say that - sort of a contradiction -
I will say it’s the one part I hate about the XR - After an oil change - everything looks good - but I found that the 1st 500 miles or so you really have to keep an eye on it - after that the level calms down.

And always remember – long road trips drink oil for breakfast, so make sure you pack some dinner for the little guy
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:41 AM   #5752
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drtdino View Post

Just picked up this 1998 xr400 for $750 not running. It sat for a few years and the carb slide was siezed. Brought it home, cleaned the carb and started up after quite a few kicks!!! Now I am ordering some parts for it.
1998's are the best years. Just ask me.



Nice purchase.
__________________
"So what makes this protest different is that you're set to die, Bobby?"
--May well come to that.
"You start a hunger strike to protest for what you believe in. You don't start already determined to die or am I missing somethin' here?"
-- It's in their hands. Our message is clear. They're seeing our determination.
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:45 AM   #5753
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[QUOTE=AltRoute;21128785]
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbySands View Post
I concur. Getting a true reading on an XR 400 isn't that hard but it is easy to get it wrong and overfill.

I love when people say that - sort of a contradiction -
I will say it’s the one part I hate about the XR - After an oil change - everything looks good - but I found that the 1st 500 miles or so you really have to keep an eye on it - after that the level calms down.

And always remember – long road trips drink oil for breakfast, so make sure you pack some dinner for the little guy

Yeah, seems like a contradiction.

What I mean is: the process to getting a good reading is dead simple.

But it is constantly being mucked up.

Once the oil is dropped and then refilled, you know how much oil is in there (you just put it in!) so go ride it. Let it go through a couple heat cycles and don't be afraid. Put some miles and time on it. Unless it's been pouring out or the fellow behind you has an oil-speckled set of goggles, the oil is still in there.

Now, ride to the truck, shut the bike off but stay on it, remove gloves and helmet, get a drink. Have you buddy hand you a rag and check the oil level. Done deal. If you need to add oil, do it slowly.
__________________
"So what makes this protest different is that you're set to die, Bobby?"
--May well come to that.
"You start a hunger strike to protest for what you believe in. You don't start already determined to die or am I missing somethin' here?"
-- It's in their hands. Our message is clear. They're seeing our determination.
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:13 AM   #5754
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dove in a little more with my poor running xr and have another quick question.

It started with a kick of the kickstarter which resulted in an immediate stop along with a sudden "knock" sound.

Pulled right crankcase cover and took out kickstart, inspected, and put back in. Used my hand on the kickstart lever and all was well.



Pulled head cover off and noticed the timing marks appear to be off. Here's some pics:

Cam timing marks according to the stators TDC. Is the exhaust side off by a tooth?




Here's the cam marks parallel to cylinder:


and here is the resulting markings on the stator. It's a little tricky to see but the sideways T is to the left of the index mark:



Guessing its off by a tooth? if thats the case, is it possible thats what happened when the kickstarter came to a hault?

Lastly, i made a temporary manual tensioner (existing coiled metal didn't really allow the plunger to fully extend) and a curious as to how tight is to tight for the cam chain?


Thanks for the help and hope to get her back in the dirt soon!

mvg2 screwed with this post 04-07-2013 at 10:35 AM
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:54 AM   #5755
drtdino
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbySands View Post
1998's are the best years. Just ask me.
I didn't do any research before I picked it up. Is there a problem with the 98's?
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Old 04-07-2013, 04:39 PM   #5756
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Does any one have a stock xr400 exhaust laying around they want to sell? My bike has an fmf power core, I'm sure it needs to be repacked. But I think even then it will be too loud.
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:57 PM   #5757
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Originally Posted by drtdino View Post
I didn't do any research before I picked it up. Is there a problem with the 98's?

Nope. But they did make a few improvements after our year. I think they made the kick start shaft thicker and a few other small improvements. I have had my 1998 for quite a while and aside from the damage I have done, it's been very solid.

Oh, I think it was the countershaft which was improved and made larger on our bikes.

For springs changed and got better, too, and the carb was better jetted later in the years.

I have an FMF Power Core IV which I hardly ever run because it is so DAMN loud, packed or not. I'd never make sound with it. I run the stock exhaust which has been drilled. You should post this in the Flea Market, someone will have one. The stockers are really heavy compared to any aftermarket exhaust.
__________________
"So what makes this protest different is that you're set to die, Bobby?"
--May well come to that.
"You start a hunger strike to protest for what you believe in. You don't start already determined to die or am I missing somethin' here?"
-- It's in their hands. Our message is clear. They're seeing our determination.
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Old 04-07-2013, 06:01 PM   #5758
DrLewall
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mvg2 View Post
dove in a little more with my poor running xr and have another quick question.

It started with a kick of the kickstarter which resulted in an immediate stop along with a sudden "knock" sound.

Pulled right crankcase cover and took out kickstart, inspected, and put back in. Used my hand on the kickstart lever and all was well.



Pulled head cover off and noticed the timing marks appear to be off. Here's some pics:

Cam timing marks according to the stators TDC. Is the exhaust side off by a tooth?




Here's the cam marks parallel to cylinder:


and here is the resulting markings on the stator. It's a little tricky to see but the sideways T is to the left of the index mark:



Guessing its off by a tooth? if thats the case, is it possible thats what happened when the kickstarter came to a hault?

Lastly, i made a temporary manual tensioner (existing coiled metal didn't really allow the plunger to fully extend) and a curious as to how tight is to tight for the cam chain?


Thanks for the help and hope to get her back in the dirt soon!
from what I see, I agree with you..it's off by one
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Old 04-07-2013, 06:02 PM   #5759
Schlug
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mvg2 View Post
dove in a little more with my poor running xr and have another quick question.

It started with a kick of the kickstarter which resulted in an immediate stop along with a sudden "knock" sound.

Pulled right crankcase cover and took out kickstart, inspected, and put back in. Used my hand on the kickstart lever and all was well.



Pulled head cover off and noticed the timing marks appear to be off. Here's some pics:

Cam timing marks according to the stators TDC. Is the exhaust side off by a tooth?




Here's the cam marks parallel to cylinder:


and here is the resulting markings on the stator. It's a little tricky to see but the sideways T is to the left of the index mark:



Guessing its off by a tooth? if thats the case, is it possible thats what happened when the kickstarter came to a hault?

Lastly, i made a temporary manual tensioner (existing coiled metal didn't really allow the plunger to fully extend) and a curious as to how tight is to tight for the cam chain?


Thanks for the help and hope to get her back in the dirt soon!

If your chain skipped a tooth you have bigger problems than it being out of time. Is your chain that worn or is your tensioner not working or perhaps the slides too worn?

It's been a long time but can you install the chain tenioner back onto the motor and watch your marks? Taking the tension off the chain can allow it to sit funny.

It does look like you're a tooth off, I'd like to check out other options before you retime it.
__________________
"So what makes this protest different is that you're set to die, Bobby?"
--May well come to that.
"You start a hunger strike to protest for what you believe in. You don't start already determined to die or am I missing somethin' here?"
-- It's in their hands. Our message is clear. They're seeing our determination.
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Old 04-07-2013, 06:10 PM   #5760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrLewall View Post
from what I see, I agree with you..it's off by one
Is the tensioner spring broke? I made a manual one from the original tensioner. There is an aftermarket one available. I guess the problem was with the tensioner and let it jump a tooth. Just go ahead and remove the tensioner and you might be able to put it where it belongs, if not you have to pull the clutch. And main gear I think. Good luck and hopefully nothing was damaged.
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