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Old 07-25-2013, 01:16 PM   #6361
Gladly
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Whitehorse, YT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadracer View Post
Hey all,
I have a 2003 xr400 that I'm putting a Baja Designs dual-sport kit on. I mounted the kit and almost everything is swell.

The turn signals interfere with my acerbis 5.8gal tank. Anyone have any recommendations on how to fit them both.

Also, the decompression lever isn't possible to pull far enough when it's underneath the clutch and the dual sport controls are on the bars. Where do you all with the dual sport kit move the decomp lever?

Thanks!
I picked up an aftermarket hot-start lever and put it on the right side (it just replaces the back clamp on the brake perch)



it's so unobtrusive that I can't find a decent photo of it installed on my bike

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Old 07-25-2013, 02:31 PM   #6362
Skought
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Joined: May 2009
Location: East of the San Francisco Bay Area (Tracy)
Oddometer: 82
Wolfman Rollie Bags

Quote:
Originally Posted by MartiniUp View Post
Skought, tell me about those yellow saddle bags please. They look perfect for my needs. Thanks.
The saddle bags are a pair of Wolfman Rollie Bags, large, and a couple straps and buckles from ACE, didn't need to do anything more then put them over the seat and go, they stayed in place even when I was giving my butt a rest by standing up.
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Old 07-25-2013, 02:37 PM   #6363
Sniper X
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Location: Central New Mexico, 7420ft above sea level
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gladly View Post
I picked up an aftermarket hot-start lever and put it on the right side (it just replaces the back clamp on the brake perch)



it's so unobtrusive that I can't find a decent photo of it installed on my bike

That thing is pretty Zoot, is it expensive? I can not friggin believe these billet lever/perch sets for over 100 dollars each these days. Back when I had my Sumo XR600R and was billet nuts, they were under 60 bucks.
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Old 07-25-2013, 02:57 PM   #6364
Gladly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper X View Post
That thing is pretty Zoot, is it expensive? I can not friggin believe these billet lever/perch sets for over 100 dollars each these days. Back when I had my Sumo XR600R and was billet nuts, they were under 60 bucks.
$40 on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Zeta-Rot...064578&vxp=mtr
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Old 07-25-2013, 03:09 PM   #6365
KilLeR Kawasaki
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Littleton, Colorado
Oddometer: 936
Baja Headlight mod

I found this necessary to keep the back of headlight from bumping up against the oil cooler lines. The plug I installed kept on getting knocked out. I was afraid of the heat factor too.



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Old 07-27-2013, 01:16 PM   #6366
marc11
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Location: New York
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Help cannot kick over

After a valve adjustment I cannot kick my XR over. I can rotate it to the compression stroke but the kicker just locks up. I thought maybe I over adjusted it and was hitting a valve, but if I pull the de comp lever in I can rotate and kick the engine over as much as I want, so I do not think it is a valve.

Any ideas?

Disregard I got it but I think I have one or two valves.too loose as I can hear them tapping. So I need to check them again sigh.
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marc11 screwed with this post 07-27-2013 at 01:57 PM
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Old 07-27-2013, 03:42 PM   #6367
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Went back in, two were a bit loose, tightened them up. Bike fired up in one kick and ran well. Vales still seen loud to me but no different than before. Might just be normal valve train noise.

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Old 07-27-2013, 03:52 PM   #6368
DrLewall
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Location: Drakes Creek, AR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marc11 View Post
Went back in, two were a bit loose, tightened them up. Bike fired up in one kick and ran well. Vales still seen loud to me but no different than before. Might just be normal valve train noise.

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or a worn cam chain...mine use to rattle all the time..finally one day I my cam chain tensioner let go and after replacing it, it was still noisy. Well I tore into it, took abt 3 hrs and made a world of difference..didn't know the 400 could run so quiet and smooth.
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Old 07-27-2013, 04:16 PM   #6369
marc11
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Originally Posted by DrLewall View Post
or a worn cam chain...mine use to rattle all the time..finally one day I my cam chain tensioner let go and after replacing it, it was still noisy. Well I tore into it, took abt 3 hrs and made a world of difference..didn't know the 400 could run so quiet and smooth.
Hmmm didn't think of that. Any easy way to check?

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Old 07-27-2013, 04:47 PM   #6370
DrLewall
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Originally Posted by marc11 View Post
Hmmm didn't think of that. Any easy way to check?

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Easy? probably the easiest thing would be pull the cam chain tensioner and make sure that the spring in it is ok and that the plunger it working..if it is, then a real good chance that the cam chain has stretched out to wear limits. If you are mechanically inclined, replacement isnt that hard..if you are challenged with a wrench and a screw driver in your hand, best have a shop do it for ya.
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Old 07-27-2013, 05:31 PM   #6371
marc11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrLewall View Post
Easy? probably the easiest thing would be pull the cam chain tensioner and make sure that the spring in it is ok and that the plunger it working..if it is, then a real good chance that the cam chain has stretched out to wear limits. If you are mechanically inclined, replacement isnt that hard..if you are challenged with a wrench and a screw driver in your hand, best have a shop do it for ya.
I've rebuilt several top ends, I can manage a wrench add follow the shop guide. Ill give the tensionor a check first.

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Old 07-27-2013, 05:56 PM   #6372
DrLewall
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marc11 View Post
I've rebuilt several top ends, I can manage a wrench add follow the shop guide. Ill give the tensionor a check first.

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Awesome!
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:35 PM   #6373
Clem Kevin
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Just did the cam chain this week. Not real hard if you're mechanically inclined. I'm down to cam timing now, which I fear myself dealing with, ha.
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Old 07-28-2013, 03:39 AM   #6374
marc11
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Originally Posted by Clem Kevin View Post
Just did the cam chain this week. Not real hard if you're mechanically inclined. I'm down to cam timing now, which I fear myself dealing with, ha.
Great to know. I'll do it when I do the valve seals.

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Old 07-28-2013, 03:58 AM   #6375
mark1150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KilLeR Kawasaki View Post
I found this necessary to keep the back of headlight from bumping up against the oil cooler lines. The plug I installed kept on getting knocked out. I was afraid of the heat factor too.




I came up with a similar solution but took a slightly different route.
The following pictures should explain.


An old bit of bar stock bent into shape.


Added some bits of hose, glued and tapered with Areldite (two part epoxy resin)


Made a couple of P clips from some 1 mm ally sheet.


From the same 1mm sheet I made a little plate with holes drilled into it to accept 2 fixing bolts, and a few zip tyes, to hold the wiring connectors in place and clearing the head stock and cooler.


Spaced off the fork tubes with more 1mm ally


Side view, used an old 5ltr screen wash container cut to shape to cover the spacers.


Front view, painted the two wiring plate bolts white; job done.
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