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Old 06-23-2009, 12:00 PM   #241
Cowboy OP
Ceteris non Paribus
 
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Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Elizabeth, Colorado
Oddometer: 3,281
Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnesota Driver
I bought a 6" cloth wheel for my bench grinder and a tube each of gray and white buffing compound. For the little nooks and crannies i use my dremel with felt wheel. I also tried a 3" wheel on my a cordless drill but it didn't seem to get the same results (not enough rpm, I think).

It was all an experiment for me. Now i'm polishing everything I can find in the garage!
Most buffing equipment runs at full motor speed (usually 1750 RPMs). If you are polishing a large item, like a brake drum, you will want the largest buffing wheel you can get. (The larger the wheel, the faster the polishing surface is moving.) I use an 8 inch wheel, about an inch wide, for big projects like a brake drum. You need smaller buffs to get into tight spots. I generally start with sandpaper to take off the worst of the corrosion, then polish with coarse compound (I like Tripoli best), then switch to medium compound (I use ZAM) and then finish with jeweler's rouge. You will get the best results if you keep your buffing wheels separate for each step, and wash the piece you are polishing between each step, so you don't pollute your rouge buff with coarser abrasives.

You can use pretty much any electric motor to polish. It's nice to have one with shafts that come out both sides of the motor. You will also be happier if you mount tapered spindles the ends of the shaft, so you can change buffs easily. Try IJS (Indian Jeweler's Supply in Gallup and Albuquerque) as a source for buffs, tapered spindles and polishing compounds, if you don't have someplace local. They are easy to work with and their prices tend to be low.
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Old 06-28-2009, 08:30 PM   #242
Drysumpdream
vintagehonda
 
Joined: May 2009
Oddometer: 2
CB160 Centrifugal Oil Filter

Hi Gang:

Just got a nice 1965 CB160 in black - started to look it over and removed the round right side engine cover over the oil filter - then tried to remove the outer cap off the oil filter as per the owner's manual - cripes it does not want to budge - tried hooking vice grips to one of the little tabs on that little cover but do not want to reef on it till something breaks - what's the secret to removing that little round end cover off the centrifugal oil filter??

Cheers,

Jim H.
Vancouver, BC
E-Mail: jchawkins@telus.net
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Old 06-28-2009, 09:30 PM   #243
Cowboy OP
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Location: Elizabeth, Colorado
Oddometer: 3,281
Jim,

read through this thread, starting at the beginning. I had the same problem, and I documented my solution in photos pretty early in this thread.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drysumpdream
Hi Gang:

Just got a nice 1965 CB160 in black - started to look it over and removed the round right side engine cover over the oil filter - then tried to remove the outer cap off the oil filter as per the owner's manual - cripes it does not want to budge - tried hooking vice grips to one of the little tabs on that little cover but do not want to reef on it till something breaks - what's the secret to removing that little round end cover off the centrifugal oil filter??

Cheers,

Jim H.
Vancouver, BC
E-Mail: jchawkins@telus.net
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Old 06-28-2009, 11:41 PM   #244
Drysumpdream
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CB160 Production Numbers

My CB160 has no registration papers. Is anybody familiar enough with the serial numbers agenda to date this CB160??

Engine B160E-1048032
Frame B160-1071844


Many thanks,


Jim H.
Vancouver
jchawkins@telus.net
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Old 06-29-2009, 12:46 AM   #245
vidd
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Location: by a pond
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so if I say I have this soft spot for honda ... does anyone get a buzz or clue as to why/how?
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Old 06-29-2009, 07:56 AM   #246
stroming it softly
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Location: Tucson
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There is no known record of 160 vin's to year manufactured that I have been able to find. You can find the first and the last vin's so you can place your steed somewhere on that list relative to other ones. You could also find some other owners with papers and compare your vin to theirs and maybe come up with an idea of date of manufacture. If you are doing this to get a title you can pretty much make it whatever year you want as the state motor vehicle dudes have no way of knowing either.
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Old 06-29-2009, 06:28 PM   #247
pavrton
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Joined: Feb 2009
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tune up and maintenance

My cb160 is coming along great. I have everything freshly painted and I was able to polish the motor up using the techniques outlined. Thanks to all that gave me great advice. The next items on my list to learn are tune up / maintenance. I was reading on a Motorcycle Repair topic the following...

Check the compression if possible. Adjust the valves to .002" COLD on the compression stroke of each cylinder. Clean the points, check the mechanical spark advancer (behind the point plate), gap points to .012"-.016" at the widest opening, then move the point plate until the points just start to open at the F mark alignment on the flywheel.

Can anyone point me in the correct direction online for tips on how to do these steps on my cb160. Anyone know of any online videos or tutorials. I will post some photos here soon. thx

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Old 06-30-2009, 05:07 AM   #248
561design
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Hi all! I've been lurking for awhile now, this thread in particular. I finally got my bike in. :) I started to tear the bike down to get the frame ready for powdercoating. Apparently it has been painted alot. I believe the original color was red, then school bus yellow, green, two shades of blue and finally black. It looks like all the cables have to be replaced due to their age. The wiring in the headlight bucket was a mess and it took me awhile to sort that out. I'll have to figure out a better way to wire this thing when I build it back up. I'll try to keep this thread updated but I'm torn between work, my mba program and this lil project. But I'll do my best to take pics and keep this thread updated.
I'll be checking the compression and pulling the motor and start inspecting that next. :)

This is a picture of the bike that the seller took when it was up in Michigan. It made the journey down to Woodstock, Ga after 27 days.


No baffles and the bottom of the pipe is well rusted through. I have replacement pipes from a CL. So I have to mount the brackets from this set onto the new pipes.


This is about as far as I got today. I'm considering relocating the battery, but I haven't figure out how to accomplish that yet. I may get a smaller dry cell and hide it under the seat.






Tank is in pretty good condition as well as the pads. There is some rust in the tank, which I'll need to remove. Poco Bastardo in the background keeping me inspired.


Mr.Sheeperz overseeing the work aloft his dank-o-licious cafe seat.


The old air filters to be replaced with K&N goodness.


Just noticed this bracket on the rear wheel was busted. The search begins to find a replacement. Is it possible to save this piece? At the very least I suppose I can use this to practice my polishing skillz yo!


Emma-Girl came out to keep me company in the garage tonight.


For some reason that stupid lil bracket on the bottom right inside of the frame was giving me a stupid amount of trouble to remove.


Rust on one of the exhausts. Right after this I found out the replacements I got do not fit the bike. I will need to ponder my next steps in regards to replacing this wonderful, seasoned piece of hardware.
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Old 06-30-2009, 06:08 AM   #249
561design
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Joined: Jun 2009
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Do you guys happen to know the correct size of the spark plug socket I should use? I tried to do a compression test last night and realizied that the sockets I have don't fit. I think it's an 18mm. Can anyone confirm?
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Old 06-30-2009, 06:44 AM   #250
exoff-roadgoat
Will ride for food
 
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: W.Meechigan
Oddometer: 4,250
The first bike I ever road was a buddys 160 scrambler. Last winter I saw a mint 160 in Palmetto Fla. The memory of the sound of those stock pipes will still make me wet my pants. Thanks guys for restoring those great old bikes.
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Old 06-30-2009, 08:34 PM   #251
561design
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Joined: Jun 2009
Oddometer: 9
I got alot done tonight. Now, everything is nice and smoooovveee. Any recomendations on how to strip the paint? Should I use a chemical stripper or sand it down?

Started the afternoon by grinding down the tabs on the top tubes of the frame.

I decided I might as well play with the camera settings to capture some of the sparks.

Goodbye Mr. Battery Tray!

Mr.Battery Tray put up a good fight. But, alas... This was all that was left of him. :(

The spot where Mr.BT's friend used to live. Miss Tabs

This concludes the end of this chapter. :)
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Old 07-02-2009, 10:04 PM   #252
561design
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Joined: Jun 2009
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Today I finished smoothing off the remaining top section of the battery tray.

I finally decided to grind off the remaining supports for the tool box.


Old vs. New

Working on polishing/buffing for the first time evar.


Anyone know what the white stuff is on the bottom right? I was not able to remove it. Did I do something wrong?
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Old 07-02-2009, 10:36 PM   #253
Cowboy OP
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Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Elizabeth, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 561design
Anyone know what the white stuff is on the bottom right?
Yep. Aluminum oxide.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 561design
Did I do something wrong?
Yep. Not quite enough elbow grease. (A bit more tripoli combined with a bit more pressure against the buff will make a good substitute for elbow grease.)
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Old 07-02-2009, 11:28 PM   #254
MNellis
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Georgetown, TX
Oddometer: 127
"Re: the polishing. Take some 600 wet/dry sand paper to it then hit it with some 1000 grit wet then polish. It'll turn out great and get rid of those scratch marks you have in there now.

Re: the stripping. Use some aircraft stripper. You'll have plenty of time to sand later on. On my first tank I tried the sanding only and it was a ton of work and the results were not nearly as good.
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Old 07-03-2009, 04:05 AM   #255
LasseNC
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Location: Denmark, Danimarka, Danmark, Dänemark
Oddometer: 1,058
I want to see the tattoo
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