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Old 01-21-2008, 02:21 AM   #16
Joerg
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Thumb Lots of!

Quote:
Originally Posted by motoboyvfr
Does anyone know if there's a reliable driveshaft rebuilding service out there?
Lots of ... at least in Europe.

Just for the record: The BMW airhead driveshaft u-joints can be replaced by "any" shop that does standard cardan overhaul ... they do not need to be specialized in motorcycles. The complete u-joint is available as a spare part from their suppliers, and the exchange as such is pretty much a routine procedure. Cost was, two years ago and in my area , about 130 CHF = 80 EUR = 120 USD per joint, plus shipping.
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Old 01-21-2008, 07:42 AM   #17
TEXASYETI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark1305
At risk of causing undue thread-drift, when is a good point in time/mileage to check the shaft for twist?

Having recently joined the airhead community with a 83 R80 ST under 35k miles
I think you are exempt from this discussion! The ST is a monolever bike which uses a totally different driveshaft design that - the best of my knowledge - does not have the issues of the later model paralever bikes, especially the GS bikes.

Maybe it's because there is only one u-joint on the driveshaft or that it is bathed in fluid?

Anthing else?
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Old 01-21-2008, 08:35 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TEXASYETI
I think you are exempt from this discussion! The ST is a monolever bike which uses a totally different driveshaft design that - the best of my knowledge - does not have the issues of the later model paralever bikes, especially the GS bikes.

Maybe it's because there is only one u-joint on the driveshaft or that it is bathed in fluid?

Anthing else?
oh, man.. every once in a while I get it proved to me how dense I am. Thanks for the catch. I assumed we were talking paralever witout fully reading. DOH
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Old 01-21-2008, 05:36 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
oh, man.. every once in a while I get it proved to me how dense I am. Thanks for the catch. I assumed we were talking paralever witout fully reading. DOH
I was referring to Mark1305's post, not the OP. I believe in regards to the OP you are right on track as always!
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Old 01-21-2008, 05:48 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TEXASYETI
I was referring to Mark1305's post, not the OP. I believe in regards to the OP you are right on track as always!
Maybe not-- He doesnt specify, (only says Airhead shaft?) and I have a only the 77RSin the sig to base a guess on, but didnt till now...


SO which is it, Motoboy? Mono or Paralever?
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Old 01-21-2008, 07:43 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
Maybe not-- He doesnt specify, (only says Airhead shaft?) and I have a only the 77RSin the sig to base a guess on, but didnt till now...


SO which is it, Motoboy? Mono or Paralever?
'78 R100.
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Old 01-21-2008, 07:45 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbasa
'78 R100.
/me slaps forehead and heads for bed

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Old 01-21-2008, 08:16 PM   #23
TEXASYETI
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Well gosh darn! That is what happens when you ask a bunch of people who have been traumatized by BMW and their tendency to introduce a "new" design which is supposedly better then the previous.

Didn't he ask about circlips on his output shaft too! What about diode board mounts?

No?

Let's talk about it anyway!
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Old 01-21-2008, 10:17 PM   #24
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R80ST shaft repair not needed

Quote:
Originally Posted by mark1305
At risk of causing undue thread-drift, when is a good point in time/mileage to check the shaft for twist?

Having recently joined the airhead community with a 83 R80 ST under 35k miles, I've done all the peace-of-mind things like all fluids & oils, spline lube, SHB and swingarm bearings check & lube, valve check & adjust, etc., but am trying to get away from the tear-everything-apart-and-check-it mentality I've used on other bikes.
SNIP
The ST has the monolever shaft; it is the road version of the original g/s with single universal joint that is almost perfectly in line with the shaft. Also the shaft and uni are bathed (lubed and cooled) in gear oil. I have never heard of a monolever shaft needing repair [I meant actually breaking] so would be very surprised if it needs repair at such low miles. Check it at 100k...
You should however consider a spline lube if it has not already been done. I pulled mine at 10 years / 55k km and it was dry - definitely needed doing.
Good luck Lachlan

TheBigMuff screwed with this post 01-22-2008 at 05:37 AM
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Old 01-21-2008, 11:54 PM   #25
Joerg
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Hi,
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBigMuff
I have never heard of a monolever shaft needing repair
Well ... at 87 Mm, the driveshaft of my 1981 R100TIC needed an overhaul since the U-joint had developed some play. At the same time I changed that damper spring on the shaft, which caused a "clonking" noise upon acceleration. More: http://homepage.sunrise.ch/mysunrise...htm#driveshaft

OK - strictly speaking this is not a monolever, but the driveshaft design is the same anyway

And my comments above about the "repair in almost every shop" hold for that one, too - the dimensions of the U-joint are the same.

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Old 01-22-2008, 02:21 AM   #26
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Years ago I had a problem with my RS's final drive, if I engine braked to a stop, it would clunk when I released the clutch to take off again.

I pulled the swinging arm out looking for the cause, and found this.



This is the wire clip that holds the whole cush drive together.
What I figured had happened was the collar that normally covers the wire clip and hold it in place should have been stationary relative to the wire clip and move in relation to the rear cush cam.
In my bikes case the collar was stationary relative to the cush cam and moving on the wire clip.
It didn't have far to go to failure, and while I can't confirm it, I suspect that the cush cams would have come far enough apart to stop driving, as it will move backwards until hitting the end of the final drive pinion.

My fix was to replace it with an old model non-cush drive shaft, that I happened to have
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Old 01-22-2008, 05:27 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBigMuff
The ST has the monolever shaft; it is the road version of the original g/s with single universal joint that is almost perfectly in line with the shaft. Also the shaft and uni are bathed (lubed and cooled) in gear oil. I have never heard of a monolever shaft needing repair so would be very surprised if it needs repair at such low miles. Check it at 100k...
You should however consider a spline lube if it has not already been done. I pulled mine at 10 years / 55k km and it was dry - definitely needed doing.
Good luck Lachlan
Whewhhh!. Thanks for the catch, guys. I can rest easier now. The bike is without any symptoms. When I first got it I checked for clunks and lubed the splines along with changing all gear oils. I was happy to find the splines still had grease and no rust fro the last time they were attended to. Oils all looked good.

So life will be good for many miles, I hope.
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Old 01-22-2008, 07:45 AM   #28
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Shaft Resolution

The shaft in question is on a '78 R100S. It's the old type that's connected with a tapered shaft (interference fit) and a nut inside the clutch bell housing. I attempted to disassemble it in a machine shop last week and it wouldn't budge.
After looking at some different options, I've decided to send the swing arm to Max BMW and have them disassemble the shaft and remove the bearings so I can powdercoat the arm and install a new shaft and bearings later.
This is the best solution I can find unless someone has the shaft and bearing puller sitting around that they're willing to lend or rent to me.
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Old 01-22-2008, 07:46 AM   #29
motoboyvfr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
Maybe not-- He doesnt specify, (only says Airhead shaft?) and I have a only the 77RSin the sig to base a guess on, but didnt till now...


SO which is it, Motoboy? Mono or Paralever?
1977 R100S.
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Old 07-17-2010, 01:30 AM   #30
rockyuk
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driveshaft spring

Thank you Joerg for your explanation of driveshaft rebuild on your website and especially about building your own compressing tool.I had been putting off this job for a long time but your site gave me the push i needed. Also remember i am new at this sort of thing (i,m a builder) so was a little apprehensive.
[IMG][/IMG]
Here is prototype #2 of your tool. You should have put a patent on it
[IMG][/IMG]
out with the old in with the new
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
To fit the new spring circlip was tricky.I used 4 thin screwdrivers, 3 in one hand and 1 in my spare hand!

Now we are happy again. I had actually gotten used to the slight clunk and play in the driveshaft that i was compensating for it in my slow-speed riding. Now its like a new bike,so much smoother.
[IMG][/IMG]
Next i have to eliminate that clunk from the forks, or should i just empty out all the junk from the fairing pockets.
Thanks again Joerg youre a star. The last time i entered your country the border policeman asked me for 20Euro Swiss tax. I was unsure of the currency at the time and after fumbling in my pocket i handed him 20 Cent.The look on his face was priceless.
[IMG][/IMG]
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